The Top 100 Common Questions
06-13-2006, 05:20 PM
#1
The Top 100 Common Questions
The purpose of this thread is to give all newbies a common starting point for the really basic stuff.
All we want is questions and answers. No long drawn out dissertations please. It has to be short and to the point or the newbies won't read it.
For example:
Q. What's the best intake to buy?
A. There is no "best" intake. They all offer features and advantages and all have disadvantages. Some have small proven gains (+5hp), others have questionable gains (+20). Sorry but you have to do the research yourself and decide what meets your budget & expectations. Some of the more popular ones are the Jim Wolf Tech. PopCharger; NISMO CAI, Injen CAI, AEM CAI, K&N Typhoon CAI. A cheap alternative is a high flow air filter like the K&N filter.
DO NOT ASK QUESTIONS IN THIS THREAD!!!! If you have a question about something, start a thread in the appropriate forum to ask your question. This thread is for Q & A only! In other words, you must answer your own question for the benefit of all other members.
Unanswered questions, discussions or comments that don't add value to previous posts, will be deleted.
SUBJECT LINES!!!!!! Make sure you use an informative subject line when you start a thread. Don't just put Help! or Question? in the subject line. Put something that makes sense and will invite a knowledgable member into the thread to provide an answer. For example: Need help with tires. or Have question about my OEM stereo.
Let's get this started off with one of the most important "questions":
Q: Why... What... Where... ?????
A: BEFORE you ask a question about your Z, look in your owners manual FIRST. The vast majority of the constantly repeated questions can be answered by taking the time and effort to read your owners manual.
You'll save yourself the embarrassment of being called out for asking "noob" questions and the eventual flaming that follows. Plus, you'll be surprised at all the cool features that you'll discover about your new car.
Don't have a manual? CLICK HERE FOR FREE DOWNLOADS Actually, the electronic copy is better than the paper ones because you can search them.
Are your questions related to our Marketplace? CLICK HERE FOR MARKETPLACE FAQS
Thanks and enjoy!
All we want is questions and answers. No long drawn out dissertations please. It has to be short and to the point or the newbies won't read it.
For example:
Q. What's the best intake to buy?
A. There is no "best" intake. They all offer features and advantages and all have disadvantages. Some have small proven gains (+5hp), others have questionable gains (+20). Sorry but you have to do the research yourself and decide what meets your budget & expectations. Some of the more popular ones are the Jim Wolf Tech. PopCharger; NISMO CAI, Injen CAI, AEM CAI, K&N Typhoon CAI. A cheap alternative is a high flow air filter like the K&N filter.
DO NOT ASK QUESTIONS IN THIS THREAD!!!! If you have a question about something, start a thread in the appropriate forum to ask your question. This thread is for Q & A only! In other words, you must answer your own question for the benefit of all other members.
Unanswered questions, discussions or comments that don't add value to previous posts, will be deleted.
SUBJECT LINES!!!!!! Make sure you use an informative subject line when you start a thread. Don't just put Help! or Question? in the subject line. Put something that makes sense and will invite a knowledgable member into the thread to provide an answer. For example: Need help with tires. or Have question about my OEM stereo.
Let's get this started off with one of the most important "questions":
Q: Why... What... Where... ?????
A: BEFORE you ask a question about your Z, look in your owners manual FIRST. The vast majority of the constantly repeated questions can be answered by taking the time and effort to read your owners manual.
You'll save yourself the embarrassment of being called out for asking "noob" questions and the eventual flaming that follows. Plus, you'll be surprised at all the cool features that you'll discover about your new car.
Don't have a manual? CLICK HERE FOR FREE DOWNLOADS Actually, the electronic copy is better than the paper ones because you can search them.
Are your questions related to our Marketplace? CLICK HERE FOR MARKETPLACE FAQS
Thanks and enjoy!
Last edited by 3hree5ive0ero; 09-07-2012 at 11:12 PM. Reason: .
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06-13-2006, 05:27 PM
#2
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Q. I can't get my new rims to fit on the front. There's a little bolt there! What can I do??
A. That little bolt is there so your tire guys don't put your stock rear rims on the front by mistake. To install aftermarket rims, just get a 10mm wrench & unbolt it. Problem fixed!
CLICK FOR DETAILS
A. That little bolt is there so your tire guys don't put your stock rear rims on the front by mistake. To install aftermarket rims, just get a 10mm wrench & unbolt it. Problem fixed!
CLICK FOR DETAILS
Last edited by DavesZ#3; 06-16-2011 at 02:29 PM.
06-13-2006, 06:25 PM
#4
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Q:What type of gas may I fuel up with?
A:The owner manual states that you should use premium gas. However, if your in a remote place without any premium, you may use regular 87 oct... Prolonged usage of regular gas may cause detonation and premature wear.
Note:Any aviation fuel will cause damage in a rather short period. Dont even think about it, unless you like BIG repair bills.
A:The owner manual states that you should use premium gas. However, if your in a remote place without any premium, you may use regular 87 oct... Prolonged usage of regular gas may cause detonation and premature wear.
Note:Any aviation fuel will cause damage in a rather short period. Dont even think about it, unless you like BIG repair bills.
06-13-2006, 06:42 PM
#5
Q. What air pressure should I put in my tires?
A. The recommended pressure is printed on a sticker on the driver's side door jamb as well as "Technical and consumer information" section of your Owners Manual. That pressure is the cold inflation pressure, checked when the tires are cold or not driven on for at least two hours.
A. The recommended pressure is printed on a sticker on the driver's side door jamb as well as "Technical and consumer information" section of your Owners Manual. That pressure is the cold inflation pressure, checked when the tires are cold or not driven on for at least two hours.
06-13-2006, 08:23 PM
#6
1. How do I open the hatch without using the remote?
A. There's a button right above the rear licence plate. Feel for it, and press it to open the hatch. The door locks have to be unlocked first though.
2. How do I open the windows with a key?
A. Insert key into door, turn left and keep it there for 2 seconds.
3. Which turbo is better?
A. All have their ups and downs. Depending on what your goals are. Daily driving or race only? Half and half? Built motor / stock motor? It would be best to search the FI section more specifically before you decide.
4. Should I go turbo or supercharger?
A. Depends on what you are looking for. Refer to previous answer.
5. what exhaust sounds/looks/performs the best?
A. What do you consider "best"? Every car is different. It's like your fingerprints. Even though they all look the same, has the same engines, etc, they all have minor differences. Therefore no one can say what is "best" overall. Look at the sticky thread in the "Intakes/Exhausts" forum and listen to sound clips as well as check out some pictures to help you decide.
6. What's VDC/TCS?
A. VDC (Vehicle Dynamic Control) and TCS (Traction Control System) are both used to ASSIST in the prevention of loss of control in your car. They would cut throttle appropriately to ASSIST to prevent you from spinning out or losing control. Key word is ASSIST. It won't PREVENT it. It will only ASSIST in preventing minor slippage. It can be shut off by the button to the left of the steering wheel, on the lower part of the dash panel. Keep in mind that the base model 350Z does not come with either options.
7. new to 6mt...when should I shift up/down?
A. It all depends on yourself and what you are used to. Get used to driving first, and shift around 2500 - 3000rpms until you get used to it. Then explore.
A. There's a button right above the rear licence plate. Feel for it, and press it to open the hatch. The door locks have to be unlocked first though.
2. How do I open the windows with a key?
A. Insert key into door, turn left and keep it there for 2 seconds.
3. Which turbo is better?
A. All have their ups and downs. Depending on what your goals are. Daily driving or race only? Half and half? Built motor / stock motor? It would be best to search the FI section more specifically before you decide.
4. Should I go turbo or supercharger?
A. Depends on what you are looking for. Refer to previous answer.
5. what exhaust sounds/looks/performs the best?
A. What do you consider "best"? Every car is different. It's like your fingerprints. Even though they all look the same, has the same engines, etc, they all have minor differences. Therefore no one can say what is "best" overall. Look at the sticky thread in the "Intakes/Exhausts" forum and listen to sound clips as well as check out some pictures to help you decide.
6. What's VDC/TCS?
A. VDC (Vehicle Dynamic Control) and TCS (Traction Control System) are both used to ASSIST in the prevention of loss of control in your car. They would cut throttle appropriately to ASSIST to prevent you from spinning out or losing control. Key word is ASSIST. It won't PREVENT it. It will only ASSIST in preventing minor slippage. It can be shut off by the button to the left of the steering wheel, on the lower part of the dash panel. Keep in mind that the base model 350Z does not come with either options.
7. new to 6mt...when should I shift up/down?
A. It all depends on yourself and what you are used to. Get used to driving first, and shift around 2500 - 3000rpms until you get used to it. Then explore.
Last edited by Nitrouz; 06-13-2006 at 08:32 PM.
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06-14-2006, 04:11 AM
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Q: MT VS AT?
A: It all depends on your personal preffrences! Some like to not worry about shifting in city traffic, and others dont mind. The fact of the matter is that the difference between AT/MT ''speed wise'' is negligable.
The old argument of being able to better control a MT over an AT on the street/track etc... is well wrong. Once a driver understands basic concepts such as throttle control, anything that one does in a MT can be done in an AT.
Long story short, dont let anyone tell you what is best, instead go out there try both, and THEN make your OWN decision.
A: It all depends on your personal preffrences! Some like to not worry about shifting in city traffic, and others dont mind. The fact of the matter is that the difference between AT/MT ''speed wise'' is negligable.
The old argument of being able to better control a MT over an AT on the street/track etc... is well wrong. Once a driver understands basic concepts such as throttle control, anything that one does in a MT can be done in an AT.
Long story short, dont let anyone tell you what is best, instead go out there try both, and THEN make your OWN decision.
Trending Topics
06-14-2006, 05:05 PM
#8
Q: What is a plenum?
A: On the 350z / G35, your plenum is the aluminum intake manifold that sits right in the upper middle of your engine bay. To locate it, find the air intake box, follow the tube to the throttle body, and you will see that the plenum is connected to the throttle body. The plenum consists of both the "upper plenum" which you can see plainly in your engine bay, and a "lower plenum" which is not visible in your engine bay. You cannot see it because your lower plenum sits beneath the "upper plenum". If you remove your upper plenum to install a spacer for example, you will see the "lower plenum," also known as a "lower collector". The lower plenum consists of 6 tubes or "runners" that guide the air from your plenum into each cylinder. They may not look that fancy, but in fact, the precise length of these tubes has a significant impact on horsepower and torque.
Q: What is a plenum spacer?
A: Several companies make a "spacer" which rests between your lower plenum and upper plenum, to increase plenum volume and reduce restriction from within the plenum. For example, Motordyne engineering's 5/16" spacer, or AAM's angled spacer. Increasing plenum volume typically has the effect of increasing horsepower. However, if you increase the volume too much, you will start to lose throttle response. Plenum design is a crucial aspect of engine design -- companies that make spacers are simply trying to get the most function out of the plenum.
Q: What is better, a plenum spacer, or a complete aftermarket plenum?
A: Some people swear by aftermarket plenums (i.e. crawford, kinetix), but for all intents and purposes, they accomplish the same exact thing as adding a spacer. So most people would tell you to choose whichever one is cheapest, which is usually the spacer.
Q: What is the difference between the REV-UP (300hp) and the NON-REVUP (287hp) Motor? Which one do I have?
A: Rev-up Motor has higher peak HP, lower peak torque, and a higher redline (7000RPM)
Non-rev-up Motor has lower peak HP, higher peak torque, and a lower redline (6600RPM)
Rev-Up Motor has variable Intake and Exhaust timing.
Non-Revup Motor ONLY has variable Intake timing.
You can tell which one you have by looking at your redline on your tachometer.
Q: What is a MREV, and MREV2? Which one do I need for my rev-up (300hp) or non-rev-up 287hp motor?
For 2003 - 2006 350Z's / G35's, Nissan has designed two different types of lower collector:
REV-UP lower collector from the 300hp motor = shorter runners which are tuned for lower peak torque, but higher peak horsepower.
NON-REV-UP lower collector from the 287hp motor = longer runners which are tuned for higher peak torque, but lower peak horsepower.
MREV = same exact thing as the non-rev-up lower collector, but Motordyne Enginering has given it a name.
MREV2 = Using the MREV as a starting material, this is a CUSTOM lower plenum that is sold by Motordyne Engineering. It has been precisely machined to remove aluminum from critical locations on the MREV. In other words, it is like a much improved version of the MREV which reduces restriction and improves HP / TQ.
If you have a non-revup motor (6600RPM redline), your best bang for your buck is to get the 5/16" spacer. The 5/16" spacer makes the most HP for the money. OR, you may choose to get the MREV2. By replacing your stock lower collector (MREV) with this better flowing version, you will make better "area under the curve" on the dyno in terms of HP gain. My opinion is that you should choose one or the other -- either MREV2 OR 5/16" spacer. If you get both, the HP gain will exhibit "diminishing returns", meaning you will spend a lot more money to make not much extra HP. So, usually the recommended option for the non-revup guys is to get the 5/16" spacer.
If you are a rev-up owner (7000RPM redline), you will basically only benefit from getting BOTH a 5/16" spacer and the MREV2. If you get the MREV2 only, your mid-range torque will increase but your maximum HP will drop off severely. If you only get the 5/16" spacer, you will not see a benefit. Several dynos have proven that for the rev-up motor, you basically need both the spacer and the MREV2, which will make a lot of midrange torque, without sacrificing too much peak HP.
For more information, search through the Intake Exhaust forum and read several old threads on the subject matter.
Q: What is a reflash?
A: Companies such as Technosquare or AAM (Altered Atmosphere) will reprogram your ECU (engine control unit) to better adapt to mods such as intake, plenum spacer, exhaust, etc. Additionally, a reflash (such as Technosquare) can increase the rev limiter to allow for a higher redline. The stock ECU is well known for, well, sucking. It does not adapt well to mods or optimize air/fuel ratio to give the most power. Some mods can actually lose power with the stock ECU if you do not have the right tune. A reflash will basically help your stock ECU make the right adjustments to make the most power with your mods.
Q: I got an intake, exhaust, headers, plenum spacer, and/or other mods. Do I need a reflash / tune?
A: Most people *will* benefit from either a reflash or tuning, even if you are lightly modded. THE BEST OPTION IS TO FINISH ALL OF YOUR BOLT-ON MODS BEFORE GETTING TUNED!!
The best way to get a tune is to purchase an engine management system and take it to a reputable tuner. There are several options. The most popular option is the TurboXS UTEC. The UTEC seems to have the most powerful combination of features for the money. The Greddy Emanage Ultimate, for example, is another good option for air/fuel tuning, but it does not have good over timing. Your best bang for your buck when tuning is usually going to be a reflash, but reflashes do not have nearly the customizability as the UTEC.
Q: I want to know which exhaust sounds the best. Does anyone have sound clips of Stillen, Borla, HKS, Injen... etc?
A: First off, sound clips almost never do an exhaust justice. Most people lack good recording equipment, some people even record sound clips using their cell phone. Do not trust any sound clips you hear online. The BEST way to figure out which exhaust sounds the "BEST" is to hear it in person. Go to a local meet and ask nicely for people to drive you around with the windows down. Some people will rev the engine while parked to give you the idea. That is all well and good, but note that exhaust systems sound a little different while UNDER LOAD (driving around).
Q: Okay, but which exhaust system is the LOUDEST, MEANEST sounding exhaust?
A: RSR, Topspeed, or any clones of these systems.
Q: What wheel sizes and offsets do I need?
A: Generally speaking, there are a LOT of different combinations that people are running on their Z or G.
Let's get the basics out of the way first: You need a lug pattern of 5x114.3, width between 8 and 11 inches, and diameter of 17", 18", 19", or 20".
Here are some of the more popular wheel and tire sizes (for good reason) that people put on their Z's. There is no "RIGHT" answer but there is a limit to how big or small you can go.
18" combination:
Front 18" x 8.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 245/40/18
Rear 18" x 9.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 275/40/18
(lower offset such as +10 in rear is possible but may require rolling)
Front 18" x 9.5" , Offset +25 to +30, Tires 255/40/18
Rear 18" x 10.5" , Offset +28 to +35, Tires 285/40/18 or 295/35/18
(lower offset such as +23 in the rear is possible but may require rolling)
19" combination:
Front 19" x 8.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 245/35/19
Rear 19" x 9.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 275/35/19
(lower offset such as +10 in rear is possible but may require rolling)
Front 19" x 9.5" , Offset +25 to +30, Tires 255/35/19 or 265/35/19
Rear 19" x 10.5" , Offset +23 to +32, Tires 285/35/19 or 295/35/19
(lower offset such as +23 or wider tires in the rear is possible but may require rolling)
From this, you get the idea of what is required to go with smaller wheels like 17's, (typically lighter, faster acceleration), or bigger wheels like 20's (bigger, heavier, usually makes you feel slower).
Get to know how to use the following tools and you will be able to figure out for yourself the correct offsets and tire sizes you need:
Tire size calculator (click)
Wheel Offset Calculator
Certain combinations of LOW OFFSET and/or WIDE WHEELS will require what is known as "fender rolling" or "fender cutting".
If you are not familiar with the term "fender rolling", here is a quick but useful lesson you can learn in a couple of minutes: Go outside to wherever your Z is parked. Run your fingers along the inside edge of a REAR fender just above your tires. You will feel a sharp edge and a flap of metal sticking inward towards the car. Now, go up to the FRONT fender, and feel the inside of the fender again. You should notice that the flap of metal has been "rolled" upwards on the front fenders. This is exactly what fender rolling is all about. The rear fenders will need to be rolled to make room for wide wheels or low offsets, or else your tires may rub on the metal when you take hard corners or hit bumps. Any experienced wheel/tire shop should know how to roll a fender. If you go to a shop that does not seem like they know what they're doing, get out of there.
A: On the 350z / G35, your plenum is the aluminum intake manifold that sits right in the upper middle of your engine bay. To locate it, find the air intake box, follow the tube to the throttle body, and you will see that the plenum is connected to the throttle body. The plenum consists of both the "upper plenum" which you can see plainly in your engine bay, and a "lower plenum" which is not visible in your engine bay. You cannot see it because your lower plenum sits beneath the "upper plenum". If you remove your upper plenum to install a spacer for example, you will see the "lower plenum," also known as a "lower collector". The lower plenum consists of 6 tubes or "runners" that guide the air from your plenum into each cylinder. They may not look that fancy, but in fact, the precise length of these tubes has a significant impact on horsepower and torque.
Q: What is a plenum spacer?
A: Several companies make a "spacer" which rests between your lower plenum and upper plenum, to increase plenum volume and reduce restriction from within the plenum. For example, Motordyne engineering's 5/16" spacer, or AAM's angled spacer. Increasing plenum volume typically has the effect of increasing horsepower. However, if you increase the volume too much, you will start to lose throttle response. Plenum design is a crucial aspect of engine design -- companies that make spacers are simply trying to get the most function out of the plenum.
Q: What is better, a plenum spacer, or a complete aftermarket plenum?
A: Some people swear by aftermarket plenums (i.e. crawford, kinetix), but for all intents and purposes, they accomplish the same exact thing as adding a spacer. So most people would tell you to choose whichever one is cheapest, which is usually the spacer.
Q: What is the difference between the REV-UP (300hp) and the NON-REVUP (287hp) Motor? Which one do I have?
A: Rev-up Motor has higher peak HP, lower peak torque, and a higher redline (7000RPM)
Non-rev-up Motor has lower peak HP, higher peak torque, and a lower redline (6600RPM)
Rev-Up Motor has variable Intake and Exhaust timing.
Non-Revup Motor ONLY has variable Intake timing.
You can tell which one you have by looking at your redline on your tachometer.
Q: What is a MREV, and MREV2? Which one do I need for my rev-up (300hp) or non-rev-up 287hp motor?
For 2003 - 2006 350Z's / G35's, Nissan has designed two different types of lower collector:
REV-UP lower collector from the 300hp motor = shorter runners which are tuned for lower peak torque, but higher peak horsepower.
NON-REV-UP lower collector from the 287hp motor = longer runners which are tuned for higher peak torque, but lower peak horsepower.
MREV = same exact thing as the non-rev-up lower collector, but Motordyne Enginering has given it a name.
MREV2 = Using the MREV as a starting material, this is a CUSTOM lower plenum that is sold by Motordyne Engineering. It has been precisely machined to remove aluminum from critical locations on the MREV. In other words, it is like a much improved version of the MREV which reduces restriction and improves HP / TQ.
If you have a non-revup motor (6600RPM redline), your best bang for your buck is to get the 5/16" spacer. The 5/16" spacer makes the most HP for the money. OR, you may choose to get the MREV2. By replacing your stock lower collector (MREV) with this better flowing version, you will make better "area under the curve" on the dyno in terms of HP gain. My opinion is that you should choose one or the other -- either MREV2 OR 5/16" spacer. If you get both, the HP gain will exhibit "diminishing returns", meaning you will spend a lot more money to make not much extra HP. So, usually the recommended option for the non-revup guys is to get the 5/16" spacer.
If you are a rev-up owner (7000RPM redline), you will basically only benefit from getting BOTH a 5/16" spacer and the MREV2. If you get the MREV2 only, your mid-range torque will increase but your maximum HP will drop off severely. If you only get the 5/16" spacer, you will not see a benefit. Several dynos have proven that for the rev-up motor, you basically need both the spacer and the MREV2, which will make a lot of midrange torque, without sacrificing too much peak HP.
For more information, search through the Intake Exhaust forum and read several old threads on the subject matter.
Q: What is a reflash?
A: Companies such as Technosquare or AAM (Altered Atmosphere) will reprogram your ECU (engine control unit) to better adapt to mods such as intake, plenum spacer, exhaust, etc. Additionally, a reflash (such as Technosquare) can increase the rev limiter to allow for a higher redline. The stock ECU is well known for, well, sucking. It does not adapt well to mods or optimize air/fuel ratio to give the most power. Some mods can actually lose power with the stock ECU if you do not have the right tune. A reflash will basically help your stock ECU make the right adjustments to make the most power with your mods.
Q: I got an intake, exhaust, headers, plenum spacer, and/or other mods. Do I need a reflash / tune?
A: Most people *will* benefit from either a reflash or tuning, even if you are lightly modded. THE BEST OPTION IS TO FINISH ALL OF YOUR BOLT-ON MODS BEFORE GETTING TUNED!!
The best way to get a tune is to purchase an engine management system and take it to a reputable tuner. There are several options. The most popular option is the TurboXS UTEC. The UTEC seems to have the most powerful combination of features for the money. The Greddy Emanage Ultimate, for example, is another good option for air/fuel tuning, but it does not have good over timing. Your best bang for your buck when tuning is usually going to be a reflash, but reflashes do not have nearly the customizability as the UTEC.
Q: I want to know which exhaust sounds the best. Does anyone have sound clips of Stillen, Borla, HKS, Injen... etc?
A: First off, sound clips almost never do an exhaust justice. Most people lack good recording equipment, some people even record sound clips using their cell phone. Do not trust any sound clips you hear online. The BEST way to figure out which exhaust sounds the "BEST" is to hear it in person. Go to a local meet and ask nicely for people to drive you around with the windows down. Some people will rev the engine while parked to give you the idea. That is all well and good, but note that exhaust systems sound a little different while UNDER LOAD (driving around).
Q: Okay, but which exhaust system is the LOUDEST, MEANEST sounding exhaust?
A: RSR, Topspeed, or any clones of these systems.
Q: What wheel sizes and offsets do I need?
A: Generally speaking, there are a LOT of different combinations that people are running on their Z or G.
Let's get the basics out of the way first: You need a lug pattern of 5x114.3, width between 8 and 11 inches, and diameter of 17", 18", 19", or 20".
Here are some of the more popular wheel and tire sizes (for good reason) that people put on their Z's. There is no "RIGHT" answer but there is a limit to how big or small you can go.
18" combination:
Front 18" x 8.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 245/40/18
Rear 18" x 9.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 275/40/18
(lower offset such as +10 in rear is possible but may require rolling)
Front 18" x 9.5" , Offset +25 to +30, Tires 255/40/18
Rear 18" x 10.5" , Offset +28 to +35, Tires 285/40/18 or 295/35/18
(lower offset such as +23 in the rear is possible but may require rolling)
19" combination:
Front 19" x 8.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 245/35/19
Rear 19" x 9.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 275/35/19
(lower offset such as +10 in rear is possible but may require rolling)
Front 19" x 9.5" , Offset +25 to +30, Tires 255/35/19 or 265/35/19
Rear 19" x 10.5" , Offset +23 to +32, Tires 285/35/19 or 295/35/19
(lower offset such as +23 or wider tires in the rear is possible but may require rolling)
From this, you get the idea of what is required to go with smaller wheels like 17's, (typically lighter, faster acceleration), or bigger wheels like 20's (bigger, heavier, usually makes you feel slower).
Get to know how to use the following tools and you will be able to figure out for yourself the correct offsets and tire sizes you need:
Tire size calculator (click)
Wheel Offset Calculator
Certain combinations of LOW OFFSET and/or WIDE WHEELS will require what is known as "fender rolling" or "fender cutting".
If you are not familiar with the term "fender rolling", here is a quick but useful lesson you can learn in a couple of minutes: Go outside to wherever your Z is parked. Run your fingers along the inside edge of a REAR fender just above your tires. You will feel a sharp edge and a flap of metal sticking inward towards the car. Now, go up to the FRONT fender, and feel the inside of the fender again. You should notice that the flap of metal has been "rolled" upwards on the front fenders. This is exactly what fender rolling is all about. The rear fenders will need to be rolled to make room for wide wheels or low offsets, or else your tires may rub on the metal when you take hard corners or hit bumps. Any experienced wheel/tire shop should know how to roll a fender. If you go to a shop that does not seem like they know what they're doing, get out of there.
Last edited by Wired 24/7; 05-18-2007 at 02:52 PM.
The following 3 users liked this post by Wired 24/7:
06-15-2006, 11:29 AM
#9
Q: What are some advantages and disadvantages of different intakes? Should I go for a cold air intake (CAI), a JWT popcharger, or any other suggestions?
A:
03-05 Stock intake:
pro: sucks COLD air from outside your engine bay, has low pressure losses, OEM paper filter is very good making this the cleanest intake for your engine
con: once you start flowing a lot more air in general, stock intake box may start to be restrictive.
2006+ Stock intake:
pro: same as above, except with an improved velocity stack / venturi ring. This accelerates air coming into the plenum, which is a more efficient design. Arguably the best intake available for the 350Z in my humble opinion.
con: same as above, but still one of the best out there
JWT popcharger:
pro: can suck higher volume of air compared to stock due to high performance filter. Improved velocity stack (venturi ring) compared even to 06+ stock intake. The venturi ring accelerates air coming into your plenum for added power.
con: sucks hot air from engine bay and heat shield does not really help all that much in preventing it from sucking hot air. People have reported a problem stalling when travelling at high speeds and putting the car in neutral with this intake.
STILLEN Intake:
pro: similar design to the JWT popcharger. Includes a venturi ring, and a very functional cold-air-box to make this one of the best intake available. Does not suffer from the same hot air sucking as the JWT popcharger.
con: the price is significantly higher than the JWT intake, but this is the only Con I can think of.
Long tube CAI such as Nismo, Injen:
pro: sucks colder air, (note...so does stock)
con: More pressure losses due to a longer tube. This is a fact of life folks. More bends and longer tube = more pressure losses. In fact, long tube CAI's have even shown horsepower LOSSES on a dyno.
K&N typhoon (short tube like stock intake / JWT popcharger, but includes a front-mounted scoop):
pro: cone-type filter should suck a higher volume of air compared to stock. attempts to offset JWT popcharger's hot-air syndrome by incorporating a cold air scoop.
con: hard to prove that the scoop is actually effective
HKS Racing Suction
pro: Shorter tube like stock, higher flowing filter
con: People have stated that the install is difficult, price is rather high for what seems like a minimal improvement over JWT popcharger
A:
03-05 Stock intake:
pro: sucks COLD air from outside your engine bay, has low pressure losses, OEM paper filter is very good making this the cleanest intake for your engine
con: once you start flowing a lot more air in general, stock intake box may start to be restrictive.
2006+ Stock intake:
pro: same as above, except with an improved velocity stack / venturi ring. This accelerates air coming into the plenum, which is a more efficient design. Arguably the best intake available for the 350Z in my humble opinion.
con: same as above, but still one of the best out there
JWT popcharger:
pro: can suck higher volume of air compared to stock due to high performance filter. Improved velocity stack (venturi ring) compared even to 06+ stock intake. The venturi ring accelerates air coming into your plenum for added power.
con: sucks hot air from engine bay and heat shield does not really help all that much in preventing it from sucking hot air. People have reported a problem stalling when travelling at high speeds and putting the car in neutral with this intake.
STILLEN Intake:
pro: similar design to the JWT popcharger. Includes a venturi ring, and a very functional cold-air-box to make this one of the best intake available. Does not suffer from the same hot air sucking as the JWT popcharger.
con: the price is significantly higher than the JWT intake, but this is the only Con I can think of.
Long tube CAI such as Nismo, Injen:
pro: sucks colder air, (note...so does stock)
con: More pressure losses due to a longer tube. This is a fact of life folks. More bends and longer tube = more pressure losses. In fact, long tube CAI's have even shown horsepower LOSSES on a dyno.
K&N typhoon (short tube like stock intake / JWT popcharger, but includes a front-mounted scoop):
pro: cone-type filter should suck a higher volume of air compared to stock. attempts to offset JWT popcharger's hot-air syndrome by incorporating a cold air scoop.
con: hard to prove that the scoop is actually effective
HKS Racing Suction
pro: Shorter tube like stock, higher flowing filter
con: People have stated that the install is difficult, price is rather high for what seems like a minimal improvement over JWT popcharger
Last edited by Wired 24/7; 05-18-2007 at 02:46 PM.
06-22-2006, 03:34 PM
#10
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Q: Has the tire feathering been fixed?
A: There is no definite answer. Tire feathering can occur on any vehicle with improper toe settings. It is more likely to occur on sports cars. Early 350z years (2003, 2004) had more cases of tire feathering, possibly due to bad alignment specs, slight changes in suspension. In general one should not expect the same long tire life as on normal cars, and one needs to keep an eye on tire wear and possibly re-align or rotate tires when signs of irregular wear can be observed. When lowering the vehicle a lot, one may need to purchase adjustable control arms to be able to bring alignment back within spec. This however is not needed or useful on the stock 350z suspension or the NISMO S Tune suspension.
Q: Can the tires on the 350z be rotated and if how?
A: It depends on your tire size and type. Obviously if you have staggered sizes, you can never rotate between front and back. But you can still rotate left to right. If the tires are directional, left right rotation obviously will require to take the tire of the wheel and mount it back on in reverse direction.
That way inside tread will be outside, which can help irregular tire wear.
If you have assymmetric tires (such as the PS2), than you can rotate left-right without having to take the tire off the wheel. It will not help inside/outside irregular wear, but may help feathering where the feathers have a direction, because after the left-right rotation the assymmetric tire (not directional!) will turn in the reverse direction.
A: There is no definite answer. Tire feathering can occur on any vehicle with improper toe settings. It is more likely to occur on sports cars. Early 350z years (2003, 2004) had more cases of tire feathering, possibly due to bad alignment specs, slight changes in suspension. In general one should not expect the same long tire life as on normal cars, and one needs to keep an eye on tire wear and possibly re-align or rotate tires when signs of irregular wear can be observed. When lowering the vehicle a lot, one may need to purchase adjustable control arms to be able to bring alignment back within spec. This however is not needed or useful on the stock 350z suspension or the NISMO S Tune suspension.
Q: Can the tires on the 350z be rotated and if how?
A: It depends on your tire size and type. Obviously if you have staggered sizes, you can never rotate between front and back. But you can still rotate left to right. If the tires are directional, left right rotation obviously will require to take the tire of the wheel and mount it back on in reverse direction.
That way inside tread will be outside, which can help irregular tire wear.
If you have assymmetric tires (such as the PS2), than you can rotate left-right without having to take the tire off the wheel. It will not help inside/outside irregular wear, but may help feathering where the feathers have a direction, because after the left-right rotation the assymmetric tire (not directional!) will turn in the reverse direction.
06-23-2006, 12:33 AM
#11
Q: Whats the difference between models? Which one is right for me?
A:This question really depends on what you want to do with the car. If your building a track monster from the get-go, a Base or Enthusiast is probably the way to go. If your looking for a nice touring car that you don't have to do much too, the Touring or the 35th Anniversary Edition in 2005 might be best. Please note this guide only covers coupe options, not roadster.
Abbreviations
TCS - Traction Control System
VDC - Vehicle Dynamics Controller
VTC - Variable Timing Control
MT - Manual Transmission
AT - Automatic Transmission
VLSD - Viscous Limited-Slip Differential
Model Breakdown (2003-2004.5):
Base: 3.5L V6 with 287hp/274 ft-lbs of tq., 17" rims. Only available in 6-speed MT. No VLSD, cruise control.
Enthusiast: Added Cruise Control, HID headlights, Aluminum pedals, Auto-dimming rearview mirror, VLSD, and TCS. Available in either 6-speed MT or 5-speed AT.
Performance: Adds VDC , 18" rims (18"x8" all around). Only available with 6-speed MT.
Touring: Adds Leather seats w/ power adjust-ability, Bose sound system, and optional DVD Navigation. Available in either 6-speed MT or 5-speed AT.
Track: Adds 18" Rays Track Rims (18"x8" front, 18"x8.5" rear, approx. 18.3 lbs per rim), Brembo Big Brake Kit, underbody aero kit w/ rear hatch spoiler. Only available in 6-speed MT.
*Please note all automatic models Enthusiast up only had TCS, no VDC.
There were no major changes until the 2004.5 model, in which the suspension was changed slightly to help alleviate the "tire feathering" problem. I'm not sure the exact change, but there were some small changes in the suspension that seemed to help lessen the cases, though there were some still sporadically appearing.
The next major changes wouldn't come until 2005. Nissan introduced the "Rev-Up" 300hp/260tq variant of the VQ35. It was featured in the 2005 Track and 35th Anniversary models (6-speed MT only). Major changes included VTC on the exhaust cams, improved internals, higher redline, and modified lower plenum. Also, all models received a new, redesigned front suspension which appears to have helped to combat the problems with tire feathering.
The 35th Anniversary model that appeared in 2005 was a mesh of the Touring and Track model. It featured the same Brembo Brakes and 300hp motor of the Track model, but all the comfort amenities of the Touring such as leather, Bose sound system, and optional Navigation. It was available in 6-speed MT or 5-speed AT, though the AT received the 287hp/274tq engine and did not feature VDC, just TCS. The 35th Anniversary also feature unique 18" 5-spoke rims.
The Z received a small redesign on 2006 to both the car itself and to the model lineup. The car received a slight facelift with a subtly redesigned front bumper, new Bi-Xenon headlights, and LED tailights. Also, all 6-speed models except for the Track and Grand Touring were equipped with the 18" rims from the 2005 35th Anniversary (Enthusiast AT's get the 17" rims, Touring get the 2003-2005 18" Touring rims). Under the hood, all MT models recieved the 300hp/260tq Rev-Up motors. All AT models recieved the 287hp/274tq motors.
Inside, there were some spots of added aluminum trim, as well as new steering-wheel mounted audo controls in all Enthusiast-up models.
Model Breakdown (2006):
Base:Bi-xenon HID's, five-spoke 18" rims, 6-speed MT only. No VSLD or cruise control.
Enthusiast: Adds TCS, VLSD, Cruise Control, Auto-dimming rearview mirror, aluminum pedals, Illuminated audio controls on steering wheel. Availble with MT or AT.
Performance: No longer exists in current lineup.
Touring: Adds VDC (manual only), Bose Audio w/ MP3 playback
capability, leather seats w/ power and heat. Available with MT or AT.
Track: Adds Brembo Braking system, underbody aero package, rear
hatch spoiler, lightweight Rays rims (18"x8.5" Front, 19x9.5" rear). MT only.
Grand Touring: Adds Brembo brakes and Rays Rims from Track model, underbody aero package, Bose sound system, and leather seats. Available with MT or AT.
*Please note all automatic models Enthusiast up only had TCS, no VDC.
In 2007, Nissan took the 350z another step forward and released the new HR model motor. Featuring a new twin-intake, variable valve-timing on the exhaust cams, a 7500RPM redline, the engine was claimed to be 80% new. 2007 also saw the demise of the Track model and replaced with the Nismo edition car, limited to a production run of 1500 cars. The Nismo edition featured a specially-engineered chassis welded to stiffen the chassis, a Nismo edition body kit (dubbed the V3, for version 3, since it was the third iteration of the Nismo body kit for the 350z), and limited edition Nismo exhaust tips (not the full exhaust). The suspension is also stiffer and more suited for a track, though it is still quite streetable.
Model Breakdown (2007-2008):
*All models received the new 306hp VQHR motor.*
Base:Bi-xenon HID's, 18" five-spoke rims, 6-speed MT only. No VSLD or cruise control.
Enthusiast: Adds TCS, VLSD, Cruise Control, Auto-dimming rearview mirror, aluminum pedals, Illuminated audio controls on steering wheel. Availble with MT or AT.
Touring: Adds VDC (manual only), Bose Audio w/ MP3 playback
capability, leather seats w/ power and heat. Available with MT or AT.
Grand Touring: Adds Brembo brakes and Rays Rims from Track model, underbody aero package, Bose sound system, and leather seats. Available with MT or AT.
Nismo: Adds Brembo Braking system, factory-Nismo aero package, OEM Nismo suspension setup, lightweight Rays rims (18"x8.5" Front, 19x9.5" rear). MT only.
Hopefully this brief overview will help you to decide which model is right for you. When your ready to purchase your Z, head over to www.edmunds.com, locate the Invoice price in your area for the model you've chosen, and bargain away! NEVER pay MSRP for a Z! You should be paying at or just above Invoice.
A:This question really depends on what you want to do with the car. If your building a track monster from the get-go, a Base or Enthusiast is probably the way to go. If your looking for a nice touring car that you don't have to do much too, the Touring or the 35th Anniversary Edition in 2005 might be best. Please note this guide only covers coupe options, not roadster.
Abbreviations
TCS - Traction Control System
VDC - Vehicle Dynamics Controller
VTC - Variable Timing Control
MT - Manual Transmission
AT - Automatic Transmission
VLSD - Viscous Limited-Slip Differential
Model Breakdown (2003-2004.5):
Base: 3.5L V6 with 287hp/274 ft-lbs of tq., 17" rims. Only available in 6-speed MT. No VLSD, cruise control.
Enthusiast: Added Cruise Control, HID headlights, Aluminum pedals, Auto-dimming rearview mirror, VLSD, and TCS. Available in either 6-speed MT or 5-speed AT.
Performance: Adds VDC , 18" rims (18"x8" all around). Only available with 6-speed MT.
Touring: Adds Leather seats w/ power adjust-ability, Bose sound system, and optional DVD Navigation. Available in either 6-speed MT or 5-speed AT.
Track: Adds 18" Rays Track Rims (18"x8" front, 18"x8.5" rear, approx. 18.3 lbs per rim), Brembo Big Brake Kit, underbody aero kit w/ rear hatch spoiler. Only available in 6-speed MT.
*Please note all automatic models Enthusiast up only had TCS, no VDC.
There were no major changes until the 2004.5 model, in which the suspension was changed slightly to help alleviate the "tire feathering" problem. I'm not sure the exact change, but there were some small changes in the suspension that seemed to help lessen the cases, though there were some still sporadically appearing.
The next major changes wouldn't come until 2005. Nissan introduced the "Rev-Up" 300hp/260tq variant of the VQ35. It was featured in the 2005 Track and 35th Anniversary models (6-speed MT only). Major changes included VTC on the exhaust cams, improved internals, higher redline, and modified lower plenum. Also, all models received a new, redesigned front suspension which appears to have helped to combat the problems with tire feathering.
The 35th Anniversary model that appeared in 2005 was a mesh of the Touring and Track model. It featured the same Brembo Brakes and 300hp motor of the Track model, but all the comfort amenities of the Touring such as leather, Bose sound system, and optional Navigation. It was available in 6-speed MT or 5-speed AT, though the AT received the 287hp/274tq engine and did not feature VDC, just TCS. The 35th Anniversary also feature unique 18" 5-spoke rims.
The Z received a small redesign on 2006 to both the car itself and to the model lineup. The car received a slight facelift with a subtly redesigned front bumper, new Bi-Xenon headlights, and LED tailights. Also, all 6-speed models except for the Track and Grand Touring were equipped with the 18" rims from the 2005 35th Anniversary (Enthusiast AT's get the 17" rims, Touring get the 2003-2005 18" Touring rims). Under the hood, all MT models recieved the 300hp/260tq Rev-Up motors. All AT models recieved the 287hp/274tq motors.
Inside, there were some spots of added aluminum trim, as well as new steering-wheel mounted audo controls in all Enthusiast-up models.
Model Breakdown (2006):
Base:Bi-xenon HID's, five-spoke 18" rims, 6-speed MT only. No VSLD or cruise control.
Enthusiast: Adds TCS, VLSD, Cruise Control, Auto-dimming rearview mirror, aluminum pedals, Illuminated audio controls on steering wheel. Availble with MT or AT.
Performance: No longer exists in current lineup.
Touring: Adds VDC (manual only), Bose Audio w/ MP3 playback
capability, leather seats w/ power and heat. Available with MT or AT.
Track: Adds Brembo Braking system, underbody aero package, rear
hatch spoiler, lightweight Rays rims (18"x8.5" Front, 19x9.5" rear). MT only.
Grand Touring: Adds Brembo brakes and Rays Rims from Track model, underbody aero package, Bose sound system, and leather seats. Available with MT or AT.
*Please note all automatic models Enthusiast up only had TCS, no VDC.
In 2007, Nissan took the 350z another step forward and released the new HR model motor. Featuring a new twin-intake, variable valve-timing on the exhaust cams, a 7500RPM redline, the engine was claimed to be 80% new. 2007 also saw the demise of the Track model and replaced with the Nismo edition car, limited to a production run of 1500 cars. The Nismo edition featured a specially-engineered chassis welded to stiffen the chassis, a Nismo edition body kit (dubbed the V3, for version 3, since it was the third iteration of the Nismo body kit for the 350z), and limited edition Nismo exhaust tips (not the full exhaust). The suspension is also stiffer and more suited for a track, though it is still quite streetable.
Model Breakdown (2007-2008):
*All models received the new 306hp VQHR motor.*
Base:Bi-xenon HID's, 18" five-spoke rims, 6-speed MT only. No VSLD or cruise control.
Enthusiast: Adds TCS, VLSD, Cruise Control, Auto-dimming rearview mirror, aluminum pedals, Illuminated audio controls on steering wheel. Availble with MT or AT.
Touring: Adds VDC (manual only), Bose Audio w/ MP3 playback
capability, leather seats w/ power and heat. Available with MT or AT.
Grand Touring: Adds Brembo brakes and Rays Rims from Track model, underbody aero package, Bose sound system, and leather seats. Available with MT or AT.
Nismo: Adds Brembo Braking system, factory-Nismo aero package, OEM Nismo suspension setup, lightweight Rays rims (18"x8.5" Front, 19x9.5" rear). MT only.
Hopefully this brief overview will help you to decide which model is right for you. When your ready to purchase your Z, head over to www.edmunds.com, locate the Invoice price in your area for the model you've chosen, and bargain away! NEVER pay MSRP for a Z! You should be paying at or just above Invoice.
Last edited by Armitage; 01-24-2010 at 04:18 AM.
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07-14-2006, 08:18 AM
#12
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2006 track wheel/tire specs
Originally Posted by Armitage
Model Breakdown (2006):
...
Track: Adds Brembo Braking system, underbody aero package, rear
hatch spoiler, lightweight Rays rims (18"x8.5" Front, 19x9.5" rear). MT only.
...
Track: Adds Brembo Braking system, underbody aero package, rear
hatch spoiler, lightweight Rays rims (18"x8.5" Front, 19x9.5" rear). MT only.
Fronts rims are 18x9 with +30mm offset
Rear rims are 19x10 with +30mm offset
Front tires are 245/40-18
Rear tires are 265/35-19
Also tires on the track/Grand touring models are bridgestone re050a (highly rated
)While the tires on the other models are bridgestone re040 (poorly rated
)
Last edited by hiz-n-herz; 10-20-2007 at 09:06 AM.
07-14-2006, 09:16 AM
#13
Q: What speaker sizes fit?
A: The front speakers holes fit a 6.5 inch driver and up to a 1” tweeter in the sail panel. The front speaker depth is relatively shallow, but allow 90% of the speakers on the market to fit. The rear speakers holes fit 6.5 inch drivers as well with plenty of room behind them.
Q: What size of radio can I use in the Z?
A: The stock unit is a double DIN. You can replace it with a double din unit, or a single din with adapter bracket (usually includes a pocket) from metra, scosche or any other kit maker. The stock wiring harness adapter kits can also be purchased from these same sources.
Q: Can I put a subwoofer in the stock location?
A: Yes. Most 10 inch subwoofers will fit in the stock sub location without issue. The factory subwoofer mounting plate is included in all 350Z cars, the only difference is between the models will be the “grilled” cover standard in bose equipped cars and the “blank” cover in all others. The bose grill panel can be ordered separately and used. The stock location is made for a “Free Air” subwoofer design. (As opposed to a sub made for a sealed or ported enclosure). Some have built customer enclosures out of wood or fiberglass that fit this space.
A: The front speakers holes fit a 6.5 inch driver and up to a 1” tweeter in the sail panel. The front speaker depth is relatively shallow, but allow 90% of the speakers on the market to fit. The rear speakers holes fit 6.5 inch drivers as well with plenty of room behind them.
Q: What size of radio can I use in the Z?
A: The stock unit is a double DIN. You can replace it with a double din unit, or a single din with adapter bracket (usually includes a pocket) from metra, scosche or any other kit maker. The stock wiring harness adapter kits can also be purchased from these same sources.
Q: Can I put a subwoofer in the stock location?
A: Yes. Most 10 inch subwoofers will fit in the stock sub location without issue. The factory subwoofer mounting plate is included in all 350Z cars, the only difference is between the models will be the “grilled” cover standard in bose equipped cars and the “blank” cover in all others. The bose grill panel can be ordered separately and used. The stock location is made for a “Free Air” subwoofer design. (As opposed to a sub made for a sealed or ported enclosure). Some have built customer enclosures out of wood or fiberglass that fit this space.
Last edited by sq40; 07-14-2006 at 01:57 PM.
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Chad B (05-31-2018)
07-14-2006, 09:55 AM
#14
Q: Do Aerodynamic body pieces really functional? and how do they work?
A: There are some aftermarket bodykits that are functional, however, it highly depends on shape and the location of the aerodynamic piece
Canards: Typically attached to the front bumper, along the sides, these protrusions vary in length and curvature to optimize front end downforce at various speeds. Long, flatter canards are for high-speed, lower drag configuration, for high speed front end stability. In general the more curvature of the canard, the more downforce to the front it can apply, however, they are generally optimal for lower speeds (with road courses that have more turns) as at higher speeds they cause more of a drag penalty than functional.
Front Splitters/Lips: Airflow in front of the nose goes three directions. 1. up and over the hood, 2. creates a stagnation area that forces the air into the nose -> radiator/Intercooler, etc.. 3. underneath the car. Splitters and Lips that protude past the front of the nose (typically by a few inches) allow the airflow that wants to flowunderneath the car, push the lip downward, thus pulling the nose down causing more front end downforce. (thats why you see splitters with those two silver adjustable rods, so that it can attach to the bumper and provide structural stability) There does come a point where a too long of a splitter hinders performance, but generally a couple inches is adequate.
Front diffusers/Flat Undertrays: Always. Always run with your stock undertay. Engine bays are designed to operate it with them and when you seal the under side of the engine, it forces the air thru the radiator and exit near the back of the firewall. Front diffusers are generally trying to create a low air pressure zone under the front of the car (using venturi's theory) in layman's terms: airflow will accelerate faster thru a narrow channel than it will thru a larger void. Most diffusers you will see have a slight curve up. this curve up is where a 'vacuum' effect is generated. Flat undertrays is just to keep the airflow from getting 'stuck' in the various nooks and cranies of the underbody and to allow for a smoother air flow to the back of the car.
Vents on your hood: Depending on the shape of the vent and location, it will suck air out of the engine bay. typically reverse louvered near the front of the hood will assist in sucking air out by the radiator. vents near the back of the hoodwill help alieviate heat from turbos and/or the pelnum. Vents with a slight ridge infront of it will allow the air flow over the hood to go up, sucking the air up and out of the engine bay. Open/flat vents in the hood with no louvers are slightly effective, but at high speeds when the air flow is over the hood, depending on how large of the hole you make, it may be necessary to add a small gurney flap to the leading edge of the hole, just to make the air go up and over the hole to assist the air flow out.
Gurney Flap: a Gurney flap causes the air to seperate on the trailing edge of a surface. typically 1/2" or smaller at a 90degree angle to the surface it's attached to. ie. The trailing edge of a wing. Minimal drag penality, BIG effect on speeding up the airflow behind it.
Wings & Spoilers: an elevated touring wing on a Z does work. But at speeds 60mph and higher. The reason why touring wings are so high off the trunk lid is because it needs to be in the airstream that is not affected by the shape of the car's roof. rear wings provide tremendous downforce to the rear of the car (depending on the angle of attack) and can be very beneficial on the road course where high-speed stability is needed during turns. a trunk lid spoiler, 'spoils' the airflow over the rear hatch and causes it to seperate sooner. Our car is more-or-less the shape of a wing. by making the airflow seperate sooner, it prevents the rear end lifting. But a majority of the trunk lid spoilers out for our Z are mainly for cosmetic purposes. IF you want something that really works, it's time to convert your Z into a Salad bar. Add a gurney flap for more effect. These 3d looking wings with humps in the center and weird sides? is because airflow over the center of the roof is at different over the sides.
Side Skirts: Out of all the body kits i've seen, 90% are cosmetic purposes. however, in general a longer side skirt that is lower to the ground will prevent 'leakage' of air coming from the sides of the car that may disturb the airflow going from the front to the back of the car. the more of an enclosed 'channel' you can make for the airflow underneath the car, the better it is for high speed stability.
Rear Diffusers: Everyone of our Z comes with one.. it's called our Stock exhaust canister. Rear diffusers are similar in effect to the front diffuser, as it uses Venturi Effect to speed the airflow out from under the car. the optimal beginning of the curvature is under the rear axle/differential, but since we have so much hardware there, it's not a practical mounting place and there are too many aftermarket exhausts that get in the way of a universal solution. a gradual 6 degrees of incline is generally the best shape.
Vortex Generator: you may have seen these on the Evo MR and the new 2006+ WRX STI's. These devices actually cause the airflow over the rear hatch to stay ATTACHED longer (as opposed to being spoiled and seperating earlier) so that the airflow under the WING is FASTER, thus causing more of an effect by the rear wing. DO NOT go attaching these vortex generators ontop of our Zs unless you have a tall wing, else you're just making our rear end lift more so that before.
Fender Liners. You might not think that fender liners are effective aerodynamic tools but they are. Airflow over the tires actually go the opposite direction of the spin direction. i.e. the airflow will actually go toward the front of the car when you're driving. you might have seen these little flaps infront of the tires. well thats to allow the airflow to continue downward and limit the effect on the underside airflow. This is also why you might see side fender vents. It allows the majority of the wheel airflow to go out and exit away from the underside. In stock form, our fenderliners allow exits for the air caught in our front bumpers and for some people, air exits for oil/powersteeing coolers stores inside the fender areas.
General idea: Aero devices work mostly at 60+mph. Form always follows function. Stock Z form has Zero Lift, your best aerodynamic configuration...
A: There are some aftermarket bodykits that are functional, however, it highly depends on shape and the location of the aerodynamic piece
Canards: Typically attached to the front bumper, along the sides, these protrusions vary in length and curvature to optimize front end downforce at various speeds. Long, flatter canards are for high-speed, lower drag configuration, for high speed front end stability. In general the more curvature of the canard, the more downforce to the front it can apply, however, they are generally optimal for lower speeds (with road courses that have more turns) as at higher speeds they cause more of a drag penalty than functional.
Front Splitters/Lips: Airflow in front of the nose goes three directions. 1. up and over the hood, 2. creates a stagnation area that forces the air into the nose -> radiator/Intercooler, etc.. 3. underneath the car. Splitters and Lips that protude past the front of the nose (typically by a few inches) allow the airflow that wants to flowunderneath the car, push the lip downward, thus pulling the nose down causing more front end downforce. (thats why you see splitters with those two silver adjustable rods, so that it can attach to the bumper and provide structural stability) There does come a point where a too long of a splitter hinders performance, but generally a couple inches is adequate.
Front diffusers/Flat Undertrays: Always. Always run with your stock undertay. Engine bays are designed to operate it with them and when you seal the under side of the engine, it forces the air thru the radiator and exit near the back of the firewall. Front diffusers are generally trying to create a low air pressure zone under the front of the car (using venturi's theory) in layman's terms: airflow will accelerate faster thru a narrow channel than it will thru a larger void. Most diffusers you will see have a slight curve up. this curve up is where a 'vacuum' effect is generated. Flat undertrays is just to keep the airflow from getting 'stuck' in the various nooks and cranies of the underbody and to allow for a smoother air flow to the back of the car.
Vents on your hood: Depending on the shape of the vent and location, it will suck air out of the engine bay. typically reverse louvered near the front of the hood will assist in sucking air out by the radiator. vents near the back of the hoodwill help alieviate heat from turbos and/or the pelnum. Vents with a slight ridge infront of it will allow the air flow over the hood to go up, sucking the air up and out of the engine bay. Open/flat vents in the hood with no louvers are slightly effective, but at high speeds when the air flow is over the hood, depending on how large of the hole you make, it may be necessary to add a small gurney flap to the leading edge of the hole, just to make the air go up and over the hole to assist the air flow out.
Gurney Flap: a Gurney flap causes the air to seperate on the trailing edge of a surface. typically 1/2" or smaller at a 90degree angle to the surface it's attached to. ie. The trailing edge of a wing. Minimal drag penality, BIG effect on speeding up the airflow behind it.
Wings & Spoilers: an elevated touring wing on a Z does work. But at speeds 60mph and higher. The reason why touring wings are so high off the trunk lid is because it needs to be in the airstream that is not affected by the shape of the car's roof. rear wings provide tremendous downforce to the rear of the car (depending on the angle of attack) and can be very beneficial on the road course where high-speed stability is needed during turns. a trunk lid spoiler, 'spoils' the airflow over the rear hatch and causes it to seperate sooner. Our car is more-or-less the shape of a wing. by making the airflow seperate sooner, it prevents the rear end lifting. But a majority of the trunk lid spoilers out for our Z are mainly for cosmetic purposes. IF you want something that really works, it's time to convert your Z into a Salad bar. Add a gurney flap for more effect. These 3d looking wings with humps in the center and weird sides? is because airflow over the center of the roof is at different over the sides.
Side Skirts: Out of all the body kits i've seen, 90% are cosmetic purposes. however, in general a longer side skirt that is lower to the ground will prevent 'leakage' of air coming from the sides of the car that may disturb the airflow going from the front to the back of the car. the more of an enclosed 'channel' you can make for the airflow underneath the car, the better it is for high speed stability.
Rear Diffusers: Everyone of our Z comes with one.. it's called our Stock exhaust canister. Rear diffusers are similar in effect to the front diffuser, as it uses Venturi Effect to speed the airflow out from under the car. the optimal beginning of the curvature is under the rear axle/differential, but since we have so much hardware there, it's not a practical mounting place and there are too many aftermarket exhausts that get in the way of a universal solution. a gradual 6 degrees of incline is generally the best shape.
Vortex Generator: you may have seen these on the Evo MR and the new 2006+ WRX STI's. These devices actually cause the airflow over the rear hatch to stay ATTACHED longer (as opposed to being spoiled and seperating earlier) so that the airflow under the WING is FASTER, thus causing more of an effect by the rear wing. DO NOT go attaching these vortex generators ontop of our Zs unless you have a tall wing, else you're just making our rear end lift more so that before.
Fender Liners. You might not think that fender liners are effective aerodynamic tools but they are. Airflow over the tires actually go the opposite direction of the spin direction. i.e. the airflow will actually go toward the front of the car when you're driving. you might have seen these little flaps infront of the tires. well thats to allow the airflow to continue downward and limit the effect on the underside airflow. This is also why you might see side fender vents. It allows the majority of the wheel airflow to go out and exit away from the underside. In stock form, our fenderliners allow exits for the air caught in our front bumpers and for some people, air exits for oil/powersteeing coolers stores inside the fender areas.
General idea: Aero devices work mostly at 60+mph. Form always follows function. Stock Z form has Zero Lift, your best aerodynamic configuration...
07-14-2006, 02:00 PM
#15
Q: What Bulb Sizes Fit the Z?
(From Sylvania.com)
2003-2005 NISSAN 350Z (With HID (high intensity discharge) headlamps)
Low beam headlamp
HID-D2R
High beam headlamp
H7
H7ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: The Whiter and Brighter Halogen
H7XV XtraVision Halogen Upgrade: Up to 20% Brighter
H7CB Cool Blue Halogen Upgrade: White Hot; Super Cool; 100% Street Legal
H7LL Long Life Halogen: Lasts two and a half times longer
Parking light
168
Front turn signal
992 (7440A)
Rear turn signal
992 (7440A)
Tail light
7443
Stop light
7443
High mount stop light
%COM
License plate
168
Back up light
7440
Front sidemarker
168
Rear sidemarker
168
Map light
DE3175
Trunk/Cargo area
168
______________________
2003-2005 NISSAN 350Z (With replaceable halogen capsules)
Low beam headlamp
H7
H7ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: The Whiter and Brighter Halogen
H7XV XtraVision Halogen Upgrade: Up to 20% Brighter
H7CB Cool Blue Halogen Upgrade: White Hot; Super Cool; 100% Street Legal
H7LL Long Life Halogen: Lasts two and a half times longer
High beam headlamp
H1-55W
H1ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: The Whiter and Brighter Halogen
H1XV XtraVision Halogen Upgrade: Up to 20% Brighter
Parking light
168
Front turn signal
992 (7440A)
Rear turn signal
992 (7440A)
Tail light
7443
Stop light
7443
High mount stop light
%COM
License plate
168
Back up light
7440
Front sidemarker
168
Rear sidemarker
168
Map light
DE3175
Trunk/Cargo area
168
_______________________
2006+ NISSAN 350Z
High & low beam headlamp
HID-D2S
Parking light
168
3457ALL
3457AST Silverstar Signal Lighting: Complete the Look: Crisp, Clean, Style
Front turn signal
3457ALL
3457AST Silverstar Signal Lighting: Complete the Look: Crisp, Clean, Style
Rear turn signal
992 (7440A)
Tail light
LED
Stop light
LED
High mount stop light
%COM
License plate
2825
Back up light
7440
Rear sidemarker
LED
Trunk/Cargo area
158
168
(From Sylvania.com)
2003-2005 NISSAN 350Z (With HID (high intensity discharge) headlamps)
Low beam headlamp
HID-D2R
High beam headlamp
H7
H7ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: The Whiter and Brighter Halogen
H7XV XtraVision Halogen Upgrade: Up to 20% Brighter
H7CB Cool Blue Halogen Upgrade: White Hot; Super Cool; 100% Street Legal
H7LL Long Life Halogen: Lasts two and a half times longer
Parking light
168
Front turn signal
992 (7440A)
Rear turn signal
992 (7440A)
Tail light
7443
Stop light
7443
High mount stop light
%COM
License plate
168
Back up light
7440
Front sidemarker
168
Rear sidemarker
168
Map light
DE3175
Trunk/Cargo area
168
______________________
2003-2005 NISSAN 350Z (With replaceable halogen capsules)
Low beam headlamp
H7
H7ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: The Whiter and Brighter Halogen
H7XV XtraVision Halogen Upgrade: Up to 20% Brighter
H7CB Cool Blue Halogen Upgrade: White Hot; Super Cool; 100% Street Legal
H7LL Long Life Halogen: Lasts two and a half times longer
High beam headlamp
H1-55W
H1ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: The Whiter and Brighter Halogen
H1XV XtraVision Halogen Upgrade: Up to 20% Brighter
Parking light
168
Front turn signal
992 (7440A)
Rear turn signal
992 (7440A)
Tail light
7443
Stop light
7443
High mount stop light
%COM
License plate
168
Back up light
7440
Front sidemarker
168
Rear sidemarker
168
Map light
DE3175
Trunk/Cargo area
168
_______________________
2006+ NISSAN 350Z
High & low beam headlamp
HID-D2S
Parking light
168
3457ALL
3457AST Silverstar Signal Lighting: Complete the Look: Crisp, Clean, Style
Front turn signal
3457ALL
3457AST Silverstar Signal Lighting: Complete the Look: Crisp, Clean, Style
Rear turn signal
992 (7440A)
Tail light
LED
Stop light
LED
High mount stop light
%COM
License plate
2825
Back up light
7440
Rear sidemarker
LED
Trunk/Cargo area
158
168
The following 2 users liked this post by sq40:
bugsmoran21 (06-12-2022),
Shaun Moon (06-20-2019)
08-17-2006, 02:25 PM
#17
Q: Do all Z's make a "clunk" or "chatter" sound when disengaging the clutch? Is it normal to hear a whirring or slight grinding noise when the clutch is engaged at idle?
A: Yes, these sounds are totally normal. Furthermore, the Z's transmission is rather noisy. Shifts will seem especially noisy when you are in an enclosed parking lot, tunnel, etc.
Q: I hear a clicking sound sometimes. What is that? Sounds like it's coming from the rear of the car?
A: Beware of a slight metallic clicking sound coming from the rear of the car. It is due to the rear axle not being properly lubricated. If your car has this problem, you will usually hear this clicking sound when (1) in an enclosed space or driving near a hard wall, (2) driving without radio and with the window down (try turning off A/C if you still aren't sure), and (3) starting to move from a halt. The clicking sound is more pronounced while turning, or so it seems.
If you have the clicking, your car is due for a "Technical Service Bulletin" or "TSB" repair for rear axle clicking, which is covered under warranty. Take it to a dealer, and don't leave until they agree to fix it.
Q: Help!! My transmission is grinding from 1 -> 2, 5 -> 6, etc! YES, I'M SURE I PRESSED IN THE CLUTCH ALL THE WAY!
A: Don't worry, you aren't alone... check out the Repairing forum for more info. There is also a TSB out for this problem. Take it to the dealer, and make them ride in the car with you. Make sure you know how to replicate the problem, or else they will not fix it.
A: Yes, these sounds are totally normal. Furthermore, the Z's transmission is rather noisy. Shifts will seem especially noisy when you are in an enclosed parking lot, tunnel, etc.
Q: I hear a clicking sound sometimes. What is that? Sounds like it's coming from the rear of the car?
A: Beware of a slight metallic clicking sound coming from the rear of the car. It is due to the rear axle not being properly lubricated. If your car has this problem, you will usually hear this clicking sound when (1) in an enclosed space or driving near a hard wall, (2) driving without radio and with the window down (try turning off A/C if you still aren't sure), and (3) starting to move from a halt. The clicking sound is more pronounced while turning, or so it seems.
If you have the clicking, your car is due for a "Technical Service Bulletin" or "TSB" repair for rear axle clicking, which is covered under warranty. Take it to a dealer, and don't leave until they agree to fix it.
Q: Help!! My transmission is grinding from 1 -> 2, 5 -> 6, etc! YES, I'M SURE I PRESSED IN THE CLUTCH ALL THE WAY!
A: Don't worry, you aren't alone... check out the Repairing forum for more info. There is also a TSB out for this problem. Take it to the dealer, and make them ride in the car with you. Make sure you know how to replicate the problem, or else they will not fix it.
Last edited by Wired 24/7; 10-01-2006 at 01:37 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Neeleo_Z33 (06-16-2017)
08-17-2006, 02:45 PM
#18
Q: Help!!!!!!!!! I got water spots, bird crap, road tar, and/or other nasty stuff on my paint!!! What do I do?
A: Here is what you should do:
Step #0: PREVENTION is key. If you have a good coat of wax (such as Meguiars NXT) or sealant (such as Zaino) on your car, the bird crap/water spots will not harm the paint... AS LONG AS YOU TAKE CARE OF IT "ASAP". Do not allow the crap or waterspots to bake in the sun. This makes it more difficult to deal with the marks that these contaminants will leave behind.
If you have a good layer of wax on the car, fresh bird crap (even if it's dried on) will EASILY come off of the paint using a clean 100% cotton or microfiber rag, and a quick detailer such as Meguiar's Quik Detailing Spray, Zaino Z-6, Z-8.
Step #1: Start by washing the car. You always need a clean surface to work on the paint. Now, you probably noticed that even after washing the car, the water marks or bird crap still has not gone away.
Step #2: Get a "clay bar" (All brands are about the same. try Meguiars or Zaino). Use a quick detailer spray, or diluted car-wash soap spray, as a lubricant. Rub the clay back and forth over the contaminated areas. If the clay is sticking to the paint, you need more lubricant. Keep rubbing until the clay glides almost frictionlessly over the surface.
Step #3: Wash the car again. Dry it. From here you have 2 basic options:
Step #4A: If the spots are still very visible, you should use a very mild abrasive compound, such as Meguiar's ScratchX, Zaino "PC" paint cleaner. Do not use professional products or rotary buffing tools unless you know what you're doing (in which case you have no business reading this).
Using a clean applicator pad, vigorously (using 15-20 lbs of pressure) rub the ScratchX into the paint. Rub until the ScratchX turns translucent. Wipe off the excess with a clean 100% cotton or a microfiber cloth.
Repeat this as many times as necessary. You may notice that the ScratchX is removing swirl marks from the area as well... which may make the area stand out. If you want to do the whole car, go ahead. It will take a while, and you MUST use sufficient pressure, and you should NOT let the product dry on to the car. Be sure to top off the spot with wax.
Step #4B: If the spot is not that noticeable, you can get away with using a good CLEANER WAX on the spot. Cleaners in the wax will get down into the paint and clean out the crap without using abrasives. One such example is Meguiar's ColorX. This product is fantastic. Keep in mind that Meguiar's NXT and Zaino Z-2 or Z-5 do NOT have cleaners, and will NOT remove contaminants deep down in the paint. If you use a cleaner wax on the area, make sure to use sufficient pressure. You need pressure to help the product clean (it doesn't clean by itself!) the crap out of the paint.
Work a thin layer of wax over the affected areas using sufficient pressure, then wait to dry, and buff off.
Step #5: If step #4A or 4B did not help, you need more professional help from rotary or dual/action (porter cable) power tools and professional products. Seek help from meguiarsonline forums, autopia.org, your local detailing shop, etc.
A: Here is what you should do:
Step #0: PREVENTION is key. If you have a good coat of wax (such as Meguiars NXT) or sealant (such as Zaino) on your car, the bird crap/water spots will not harm the paint... AS LONG AS YOU TAKE CARE OF IT "ASAP". Do not allow the crap or waterspots to bake in the sun. This makes it more difficult to deal with the marks that these contaminants will leave behind.
If you have a good layer of wax on the car, fresh bird crap (even if it's dried on) will EASILY come off of the paint using a clean 100% cotton or microfiber rag, and a quick detailer such as Meguiar's Quik Detailing Spray, Zaino Z-6, Z-8.
Step #1: Start by washing the car. You always need a clean surface to work on the paint. Now, you probably noticed that even after washing the car, the water marks or bird crap still has not gone away.
Step #2: Get a "clay bar" (All brands are about the same. try Meguiars or Zaino). Use a quick detailer spray, or diluted car-wash soap spray, as a lubricant. Rub the clay back and forth over the contaminated areas. If the clay is sticking to the paint, you need more lubricant. Keep rubbing until the clay glides almost frictionlessly over the surface.
Step #3: Wash the car again. Dry it. From here you have 2 basic options:
Step #4A: If the spots are still very visible, you should use a very mild abrasive compound, such as Meguiar's ScratchX, Zaino "PC" paint cleaner. Do not use professional products or rotary buffing tools unless you know what you're doing (in which case you have no business reading this).
Using a clean applicator pad, vigorously (using 15-20 lbs of pressure) rub the ScratchX into the paint. Rub until the ScratchX turns translucent. Wipe off the excess with a clean 100% cotton or a microfiber cloth.
Repeat this as many times as necessary. You may notice that the ScratchX is removing swirl marks from the area as well... which may make the area stand out. If you want to do the whole car, go ahead. It will take a while, and you MUST use sufficient pressure, and you should NOT let the product dry on to the car. Be sure to top off the spot with wax.
Step #4B: If the spot is not that noticeable, you can get away with using a good CLEANER WAX on the spot. Cleaners in the wax will get down into the paint and clean out the crap without using abrasives. One such example is Meguiar's ColorX. This product is fantastic. Keep in mind that Meguiar's NXT and Zaino Z-2 or Z-5 do NOT have cleaners, and will NOT remove contaminants deep down in the paint. If you use a cleaner wax on the area, make sure to use sufficient pressure. You need pressure to help the product clean (it doesn't clean by itself!) the crap out of the paint.
Work a thin layer of wax over the affected areas using sufficient pressure, then wait to dry, and buff off.
Step #5: If step #4A or 4B did not help, you need more professional help from rotary or dual/action (porter cable) power tools and professional products. Seek help from meguiarsonline forums, autopia.org, your local detailing shop, etc.
The following users liked this post:
bugsmoran21 (06-12-2022)
08-17-2006, 02:53 PM
#19
Q: Is the "California Duster" safe to use on my paint? Will it scratch the paint?
A: Yes. It is safe to use and will not scratch your paint. Make sure to follow the instructions when you buy a new duster. Lay the fibers out on a few sheets of newspaper for a few days, turning to expose new fibers every 12 hours or so. This will help remove excess paraffin from the fibers and will prevent waxy-looking streaks.
The other acceptable way of dusting your car, as long as it is not very dirty, is using clean 100% cotton or microfiber rags and a quick-detailing spray. Quick detailer usually does not look as good as a fresh coat of wax, but it's good for maintaining your shine. It has lubricants in it which prevent the dirt from scratching your paint.
A: Yes. It is safe to use and will not scratch your paint. Make sure to follow the instructions when you buy a new duster. Lay the fibers out on a few sheets of newspaper for a few days, turning to expose new fibers every 12 hours or so. This will help remove excess paraffin from the fibers and will prevent waxy-looking streaks.
The other acceptable way of dusting your car, as long as it is not very dirty, is using clean 100% cotton or microfiber rags and a quick-detailing spray. Quick detailer usually does not look as good as a fresh coat of wax, but it's good for maintaining your shine. It has lubricants in it which prevent the dirt from scratching your paint.
08-17-2006, 02:56 PM
#20
Q: If my car is out of warranty, are "Technical Service Bulletin" (TSB) repairs covered?
A: It is usually at the dealer's option/discretion. (Source: THE TECH)
Note added by DavesZ#3:
"Dealer's option/discretion" may depend a lot on what the problem is. A TSB is not a recall. A TSB is a technical note to the service tech explaining how to fix a particular problem. If your car is under warranty, then it gets fixed for free. If out of warranty, then you pay (normally).
If the TSB involves replacing parts, then Nissan still has to approve it and if the car is out of warranty, the chances of that are slim. That means that the dealer would have to eat the cost of the labor and parts. If the TSB is an adjustment, then the dealer may be willing to do it without submitting a claim to Nissan if the car is out of warranty.
A: It is usually at the dealer's option/discretion. (Source: THE TECH)
Note added by DavesZ#3:
"Dealer's option/discretion" may depend a lot on what the problem is. A TSB is not a recall. A TSB is a technical note to the service tech explaining how to fix a particular problem. If your car is under warranty, then it gets fixed for free. If out of warranty, then you pay (normally).
If the TSB involves replacing parts, then Nissan still has to approve it and if the car is out of warranty, the chances of that are slim. That means that the dealer would have to eat the cost of the labor and parts. If the TSB is an adjustment, then the dealer may be willing to do it without submitting a claim to Nissan if the car is out of warranty.
Last edited by DavesZ#3; 08-22-2007 at 07:27 PM.
