Alexia75

Hi!

I'm totally new to the forum and have had my '07 roadster for a few months now.

Sadly, it's an automatic and I'm sure many will immediately say' girls car' but whatever.... i am a girl and besides, it was way, way too good a deal to pass up and much cheaper than a manual! Won't lie though, i wish it was a 6 speed!

I have no experience with high performanc driving but reallywant to learn. So i am getting myself the best valentine's day gift any girl could want...a track day!

So will it be safe, you know, mechanically to take this old fairlady on the track? Is it likely I'd damage or break something? Is it better or safe to manually shift or just let the auto slush box do its thing?

She's got 107k, auto transmission, and seems to be in good shape. I've done regular oil changes put in a new drop top, brake job, have tires with about 70% tread, and i did a fluid flush.

I've been reading about the 370z's and come across kind of scary stories about these cars on track days running very hot, overheating, losing power, and failing brakes.

so what's the real story? Is it safe to take my car to the track? Suggestions?

I just want to learn to get my car drifting and flying sideways like Chris Harris and Dai, the drift champ.

superlim9

What kind of track day are you doing? Road course? AutoX?

It'll be fine for a beginner track day. From my experience (3 track days) Most organizations wont let you push it that hard just starting out anyways.

Make sure your brakes have plenty of pad left and tires have no weather cracks and NO fluid leaks. I don't believe the 07+ 350z overheat very quickly. the 370 will go into limp mode relatively quickly without an oil cooler. DE's take a lot of abuse before having issues.

You most likely will not run any more than 15-20 min at a time. You will most likely be asked to use it as a manual so you can keep it in the correct gear. With Hooked on Driving I was not permitted out of 3rd gear except on the Long straight.

My instructor's 135i could only do about 5 laps before getting brake fade and I had slotted rotors before my first track day so i cant give you an estimate on what it could handle in OEM form.

Driver mod is the best mod. But I would always suggest handling improvements before adding power.

Alexia75

I'm doing a road course, palm Beach i think and the vendor is hooked on driving.

All the parts on the car are stock and I'm ok with that with regards to power. ..i mean let's be real, it's the driver that needs to be modded!

hmm, sounds like you had modified brakes, with the small holes for extra cooling, yeah?

Thinking i ought to consider a full on brake job and maybe that brake fluid that had higher temp, like DOT4?

So glad to hear the 350z handles road courses much better than the 370z.. not speed but at least without overheating and massive brake failure. I read about some nismos in auto rag tests that had total brake failures, going into that limp mode. .. really disappointing to see.


Thank you so much for the advice! Anyone else that had tips, please share!

WYZIWYG

Just a personal preference, I'd go with slotted over cross-drilled rotors. I've heard over time the cross drilled may not hold up as long, but I'm sure others may chime in with more input. Also, you might want to look into getting steel brake lines over your OEM ones too. STOP-Tech has some nice stuff for decent prices if you have time to upgrade a few things before your event.

clubhopper

iTrader: (6)

Brake fluid is so important for our car at the track. Ask me how I know lol... I went out with the standard dot 3 my first time out. I pretty much boiled it...I went with some high temp dot 4 for the next time...like motul rbf600 or ate and the track experience was much better and safer. Before you look at other things do the brake fluid...

But yeah if your pads are worn get some good new performance pads

Firebase99

I upgraded the brake lines, and pads on my 2013 370Z with a stock oil cooler and got about 7 laps in before I started to lose confidence at Sebring Raceway. Thats a pretty long course too.

clubhopper

iTrader: (6)

What kind of fluid?

JMII

+1

I track my 350Z every few months and the brakes are the weak point. For your first time out the instructor will likely keep you in 3rd gear till he (or she) is confident you are smooth with all your inputs, stay on the racing line and hit your braking points. After that speeds may pick up.

For sure change the fluid to DOT4 or RBF (Racing Brake Fluid), stainless steel lines are a cheap upgrade and next would be better pads. Make sure your pads have at least 1/2 their life remaining. Don't assume! Pull them and check the thickness! Trust me brake failure is NOT fun you are going to be HARD on the brakes OFTEN... like ABS lockup HARD lap after lap, the brake are going to get crazy, smoking hot.

Don't worry about rotors the stock ones are fine, its the pads and fluid that matter more.

Oh you will not be drifting and flying sideways If that's your idea of "tracking" your Z then you better stay home. Read the Track Day FAQ in the Motorsports section of this site for more info

Firebase99

I found AMSOIL Series 500 DOT 3 High-Performance Synthetic Brake Fluid worked better than...I forgot the first type I used though.

clubhopper

iTrader: (6)

^skip the dot 3 stuff....seriously

For the type of track you'll benefit greatly with a dot 4 racing type

Firebase99

I thought the same thing and used the dot 4 at the recommendation of my friend who got me into CHIN racing, he uses it in his Z06. The high temp 3 seemed to work better for me at least in the Z.

NiLL

The mail problem with the 370 is fuel starvation on hard rights as all the gas ends up on one side of the tank even when you are over 1/2 a tank, and **** poor air flow to the brakes causing over heat. Even here in florida I know a lot of guys who track the 370 all the time with out an oil cooler and it seems to be hit and miss on over heating, but most will agree an after market oil cooler will help a ton. Thankfully the 350z don't have these issues!

Firebase99

Strangely I NEVER had an issue with fuel right turn handicapped. lol. Saw plenty of the **** happen though. Weird.

GreyZ

iTrader: (2)

Brake pads. Pads come before fluid. If you are tracking on such a large track you need pads. The stock pads will gas over with stock rotors before the fluid even boils. Even if you are only doing 15 minute sessions, you can gas over the pads. Get a brake job and do pads and a ATE 200 fluid. (I have some experience with Hawk HPS and like them for mild HPDE on track and daily street use.) Other than that everything should be fine.

Possibly a trans fluid change. rear diff bushings, lower control rod bushings, and compression rod bushings. The track will do an excellent job destroying those if they arent already gone. (none of these are as much of a safety risk as brakes are though.. just car maintenance stuff. )

AroundMyHorn

iTrader: (9)

Motul brake/clutch fluid, track pads, tire pressure gauge, go pro, and make sure to check oil often during break time.

Most importantly, don't stress and have fun.

Z33Garage

iTrader: (3)

Like people already said:

Brakes ( my hawks worked great)
DOT 4 Fluid
Brake Lines
Clutch line ( Mine burst so :? )
Diff Fluid
Trans Fluid (while you are doing ^)
Diff Bushings and others. ( trans poly mount helps with the shifting too)

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

I suggest check with the people holding the trackday, a lot of companies will not let a ZR on track do to lacking of rollover protection.

RacingBlack350Z

How do you plan to drift with an automatic?

tommy smith

No experience, older car, going sideways, no problem, have fun just figure out what to do with your head if something breaks or goes wrong and in one of those going sideways rides the car starts flipping over several times. It's a convertible, perfect.... Have fun...

superlim9

Before my first track day, knowing the track I was attending had a long straight (NHRA drag strip) leading to turn one, and some other z guys in my local club hit about 125ish at the entry to turn 1, I decided to update the brakes before even trying. I did DBA slotted rotors, Stoptech pads, z1 braided lines and RBF600 fluid. Never an issue after that.

I also recommend slotted rotors. Drilled rotors do help but if you drive on the street when they get hot and you hit standing water it could crack in between the drilled holes

Also +1 to what Terra says about checking with Hooked on driving about having the roadster but i believe they will allow it because it has factory hoops.. although in a higher class probably not





Before and After shot