Whats the consensus on the release/throw-out bearing issue?
#1
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Whats the consensus on the release/throw-out bearing issue?
What is the preferred or recommended method of dealing with a noisy/potentially worn throw-out/release bearing? I bought my car about a month ago and this noise just appeared as soon as I bought it and I decided to read up on it. It seems that there are mixed responses to this, people are saying you need a new clutch, others say that it's a normal thing. I asked my mechanic and said it needs a new clutch.
Last edited by Moe747; 04-09-2015 at 01:18 PM.
#4
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I'm going to get the long version of it.
Last edited by Moe747; 04-09-2015 at 02:01 PM.
#5
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What is the preferred or recommended method of dealing with a noisy/potentially worn throw-out/release bearing? I bought my car about a month ago and this noise just appeared as soon as I bought it and I decided to read up on it. It seems that there are mixed responses to this, people are saying you need a new clutch, others say that it's a normal thing. I asked my mechanic and said it needs a new clutch.
Why? Well, there are known problems and/or better parts varying from year to year. To wit:
Up to '06, you might be able to get away with just the throw-out bearing but agree with clubhopper that you may as well do the clutch since you're in there anyways. (Or at least the friction materials if it's relatively new and the pressure plate is still OK) (And of course, vice versa.... replace T/O bearing and pivot & arm if replacing the clutch.)
On the '07-8s, DEFINITELY do the internal slave/release bearing (as well as the clutch/friction components). Nissan's OEM part is junk and a known problem. Generally recommended solution is the Z Speed unit.
Oh, and while your mech is in there, s/he should check the trans input shaft because there's a 50% probability that that is the source of the "rocks in the clutch" rattling sound, not the release bearing. (50% because it can go either way or both.)
Mic
Last edited by MicVelo; 04-09-2015 at 02:38 PM.
#6
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Nowhere in your post nor on your profile do you specify what year Z. Good to include that when asking for help.
Why? Well, there are known problems and/or better parts varying from year to year. To wit:
Up to '06, you might be able to get away with just the throw-out bearing but agree with clubhopper that you may as well do the clutch since you're in there anyways. (Or at least the friction materials if it's relatively new and the pressure plate is still OK) (And of course, vice versa.... replace T/O bearing and pivot & arm if replacing the clutch.)
On the '07-8s, DEFINITELY do the internal slave/release bearing (as well as the clutch/friction components). Nissan's OEM part is junk and a known problem. Generally recommended solution is the Z Speed unit.
Mic
Why? Well, there are known problems and/or better parts varying from year to year. To wit:
Up to '06, you might be able to get away with just the throw-out bearing but agree with clubhopper that you may as well do the clutch since you're in there anyways. (Or at least the friction materials if it's relatively new and the pressure plate is still OK) (And of course, vice versa.... replace T/O bearing and pivot & arm if replacing the clutch.)
On the '07-8s, DEFINITELY do the internal slave/release bearing (as well as the clutch/friction components). Nissan's OEM part is junk and a known problem. Generally recommended solution is the Z Speed unit.
Mic
#7
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#8
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Alright so if I go ahead with the clutch and bearing replacement how long would it be before this issue comes up again? I've read that people with this issue change their clutch and that this same issue comes back before a thousand miles. So does that happen often? If it does would you have to replace the clutch again?
#9
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Alright so if I go ahead with the clutch and bearing replacement how long would it be before this issue comes up again? I've read that people with this issue change their clutch and that this same issue comes back before a thousand miles. So does that happen often? If it does would you have to replace the clutch again?
I can say with some degree of confidence that while your clutch may be worn, I doubt it's the source of the entire problem. Maybe yes, maybe no but the point is that it sounds like the person who diagnosed it is a "throw parts at it" technician. Not to diss him/her as they might actually be competent and I'm the idiot, but it sounds too pat.
If the problem comes back in a thousand miles, well, faulty diagnosis, no? And will the shop just throw more parts at it figuring, "Well, by process of elimination......"
Far be it for me (or any else here) to render a foolproof diagnosis without putting hands on it. But I suspect there's more to it than a worn clutch. Maybe the fork is misaligned or bent (which I recommended changing while doing the clutch.)
Point is, "get a second opinion".
Mic
Last edited by MicVelo; 04-10-2015 at 07:57 AM.
#10
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When I got my 03 touring Z it had/has that exact noise and symptoms for the first 30 seconds or so when the car is cold, then completely goes away.
I changed the clutch PP, and TO bearing, put it back together and the noise is still there, didn't make any difference and the original parts look fine.
It was 18 months ago when I changed everything. I just start it up in neutral with the clutch out when it's cold and drive away.
If your problem is only occurs when the car is cold (eg. Sitting overnight) and goes away after a few seconds I would just drive and enjoy!
I changed the clutch PP, and TO bearing, put it back together and the noise is still there, didn't make any difference and the original parts look fine.
It was 18 months ago when I changed everything. I just start it up in neutral with the clutch out when it's cold and drive away.
If your problem is only occurs when the car is cold (eg. Sitting overnight) and goes away after a few seconds I would just drive and enjoy!
#11
I have the same problem in my 05 track edition after a buch of research i got the same answer... Its normal the dual mass flywheel is super noisy theres a couple companys that offer quite option with their clutches specifically for the z
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