350Z Race Refresh
#1
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Thread Starter
iTrader: (64)
350Z Race Refresh
Thought I'd start a new thread detailing what's involved in refreshing a Z33 race car. Here's a brief history of this '06 track model: it was originally converted to SCCA Touring 2 (T2) specs back in 2008 and served as the Nissan Sport project car in several issues. Beyond that first development season, it qualified and ran at the SCCA Runoffs in Topeka and the NASA Nationals (PTB) with moderate success (5th at Mid-Ohio).
In 2009, we undertook the conversion to an HR drivetrain, since SCCA rules allowed updating and backdating components of the same model line. It's raced in essentially in that same configuration for the past seven years, winning multiple regional championships and qualifying for the SCCA Runoffs each year. It's been campaigned primarily in Colorado and the midwest, although a swing through the southeast last fall and this spring saw successful results at Road Atlanta and NOLA motorsports park in Louisiana.
While there have been no majors shunts, there've been plenty of near misses. It's a racecar, after all! Years of high-speed drafting, being towed out of sandy runoff pits (ABS failure), and close encounters with other competitors have taken their toll on the Z. The bodywork and paint finish have aged at a rapid rate and the final blows came when the damage to the front and RR quarterpanel exceeded my DIY skills.
This is what the Z looks like after getting a full respray in the summer of 2015. A fresh bumper cover still needs to have brake ducts cut and riveted in place before the next SCCA Majors race. Some might ask why I elected to have GreenTech autobody (Englewood, CO) repaint the car in the original AX6 Redline color rather than go with a wrap or another, wilder color. Most of my racecars have been red, and IMHO the Z33 just looks bitchin' in that color!
Beyond reassembling this tough and (mostly) reliable race vehicle, here's my list of what to do before each race weekend to ensure it stays that way:
-Pull and check all the BFGoodrich R1S tires and Enkei wheels for damage.
-Check brake pads/lines, Brembo calipers and rotors for leaks or excessive wear (all OK).
-Bleed brakes on all four corners and refill the master with ATE gold 200.
-Check clutch master and CSC for condition (needs work).
-Check engine oil level and condition (OK- Mobil 1 0-40W).
-Check all oil and water fittings for leaks (OK).
-Check tranny and NISMO LSD diff fluids (OK- Redline MT85 and Motul Gear Comp 75-140, respectively).
While this Z33 has relatively low miles (9,239), they are some of the toughest miles any Z car has had to endure over its lifetime! Many of the same things apply to my 350Z streetcar, but there's not the need to do them nearly as often. I'll try to update this thread with more pics and comments about the process of refreshing a well-used racer, as long as there's any interest on the topic.
In 2009, we undertook the conversion to an HR drivetrain, since SCCA rules allowed updating and backdating components of the same model line. It's raced in essentially in that same configuration for the past seven years, winning multiple regional championships and qualifying for the SCCA Runoffs each year. It's been campaigned primarily in Colorado and the midwest, although a swing through the southeast last fall and this spring saw successful results at Road Atlanta and NOLA motorsports park in Louisiana.
While there have been no majors shunts, there've been plenty of near misses. It's a racecar, after all! Years of high-speed drafting, being towed out of sandy runoff pits (ABS failure), and close encounters with other competitors have taken their toll on the Z. The bodywork and paint finish have aged at a rapid rate and the final blows came when the damage to the front and RR quarterpanel exceeded my DIY skills.
This is what the Z looks like after getting a full respray in the summer of 2015. A fresh bumper cover still needs to have brake ducts cut and riveted in place before the next SCCA Majors race. Some might ask why I elected to have GreenTech autobody (Englewood, CO) repaint the car in the original AX6 Redline color rather than go with a wrap or another, wilder color. Most of my racecars have been red, and IMHO the Z33 just looks bitchin' in that color!
Beyond reassembling this tough and (mostly) reliable race vehicle, here's my list of what to do before each race weekend to ensure it stays that way:
-Pull and check all the BFGoodrich R1S tires and Enkei wheels for damage.
-Check brake pads/lines, Brembo calipers and rotors for leaks or excessive wear (all OK).
-Bleed brakes on all four corners and refill the master with ATE gold 200.
-Check clutch master and CSC for condition (needs work).
-Check engine oil level and condition (OK- Mobil 1 0-40W).
-Check all oil and water fittings for leaks (OK).
-Check tranny and NISMO LSD diff fluids (OK- Redline MT85 and Motul Gear Comp 75-140, respectively).
While this Z33 has relatively low miles (9,239), they are some of the toughest miles any Z car has had to endure over its lifetime! Many of the same things apply to my 350Z streetcar, but there's not the need to do them nearly as often. I'll try to update this thread with more pics and comments about the process of refreshing a well-used racer, as long as there's any interest on the topic.
#2
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Thought I'd start a new thread detailing what's involved in refreshing a Z33 race car. Here's a brief history of this '06 track model: it was originally converted to SCCA Touring 2 (T2) specs back in 2008 and served as the Nissan Sport project car in several issues. Beyond that first development season, it qualified and ran at the SCCA Runoffs in Topeka and the NASA Nationals (PTB) with moderate success (5th at Mid-Ohio).
Also, now that I can afford it, I might be able to run a more competitive car than the first go round 30 years ago. Competitive CAR, yes.... Driver? Well, uhhhhh....
Cheers,
Mic
#4
Registered User
This is awesome! Most definitely wanting to see the progression of this Z. The repaint looks amazing
#6
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Thread Starter
iTrader: (64)
Prepping the bumper cover
Here's what got done on Saturday:
This was a fresh Silverstone bumper cover from my ZR parts vehicle. After having it repainted Redline, I put the Z nose emblem, JDM while sidemarker lights and grille pieces back on. Since there's a need for extra brake cooling, I use 6 X 4" ABS plastic brake ducts behind the bumper to direct cooling air to 3" black ducting hose to cool my Brembos during racing. With the next race forecast to be near 100 degrees F, they'll be needed!
To install them, I needed (from left to right), a drill with 1/4" bit, small jigsaw, 1'4" blind rivets/washers and a pneumatic rivet gun. Not pictured is some stainless steel 1/2" screen that is used to prevent larger chunks from getting into the ducts or oil cooler up front. Locating the 6 X 4" ducts behind the bumper allows for a cleaner installation and is something most DIYers are capable of in their own garage.
First, measure and outline mirror 6 X 4" areas and then use a drill to start and the router to cut out the rectangular areas. Go slow and you can make a clean cut through the PU bumper. Cut a 7 X 5" piece of screen to cover the front of the duct and the plastic border around the duct. Position the brake ducts/screens behind the bumper (I used a stool to keep them in place) and drill six holes through the bumper and the 1" outer flange of each of the brake ducts.
I find riveting a corner first allows me to position the rivet and backing washer while I get the rivet gun lined up. My HF rivet gun is not the best, but it's a helluva lot better than the hand riveting tools I've used at the track in the past. Some may wonder why the brake ducts are positioned so low on the bumper and all I can say is they just look RIGHT there. Next up, SCCA contingency program graphics go on certain places on the bumper (and the rest of the car) and I'm proud to say I have Nissan Motorsports, BFGoodrich tires, Enkei wheels and Cobalt Friction brake pads as sponsors.
This was a fresh Silverstone bumper cover from my ZR parts vehicle. After having it repainted Redline, I put the Z nose emblem, JDM while sidemarker lights and grille pieces back on. Since there's a need for extra brake cooling, I use 6 X 4" ABS plastic brake ducts behind the bumper to direct cooling air to 3" black ducting hose to cool my Brembos during racing. With the next race forecast to be near 100 degrees F, they'll be needed!
To install them, I needed (from left to right), a drill with 1/4" bit, small jigsaw, 1'4" blind rivets/washers and a pneumatic rivet gun. Not pictured is some stainless steel 1/2" screen that is used to prevent larger chunks from getting into the ducts or oil cooler up front. Locating the 6 X 4" ducts behind the bumper allows for a cleaner installation and is something most DIYers are capable of in their own garage.
First, measure and outline mirror 6 X 4" areas and then use a drill to start and the router to cut out the rectangular areas. Go slow and you can make a clean cut through the PU bumper. Cut a 7 X 5" piece of screen to cover the front of the duct and the plastic border around the duct. Position the brake ducts/screens behind the bumper (I used a stool to keep them in place) and drill six holes through the bumper and the 1" outer flange of each of the brake ducts.
I find riveting a corner first allows me to position the rivet and backing washer while I get the rivet gun lined up. My HF rivet gun is not the best, but it's a helluva lot better than the hand riveting tools I've used at the track in the past. Some may wonder why the brake ducts are positioned so low on the bumper and all I can say is they just look RIGHT there. Next up, SCCA contingency program graphics go on certain places on the bumper (and the rest of the car) and I'm proud to say I have Nissan Motorsports, BFGoodrich tires, Enkei wheels and Cobalt Friction brake pads as sponsors.
Trending Topics
#8
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Thread Starter
iTrader: (64)
Reasonable question and here's a reasonable answer: my '03 track model got an update to the more current '06-08 Z33 headlights back when this racecar was built. I liked the light output and design of the mid-model headlights and elected to swap them to my street car. As an aside, since we race in the rain (or in darkening conditions), those '03-05 headlights have come in handy at the track and remain fully functional on the racecar.
#9
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Thread Starter
iTrader: (64)
Sunday was also the day to lose some serious weight. Per SCCA GCR rules, I had steel flywheels bolted in the passenger footwell using grade 5.5 hardware to make the 3,400 lb. minimum weight limit for T3. However, a recent rules change raised that 100# to 3,500#! After writing my own request to protest this change, it's become apparent nothing is going to get done this summer.
That's a crapload of weight to be bolting into the Z and not something I take lightly (pun intended). So, why the hell am I taking weight out of my Z? I elected to enter my next race in Touring 1 where the minimum weight for the 350Z is 2,450#!!! Not that any racer will ever get an FM chassis down to that weight and stay legal under the rules, but hey, I don't have to carry any ballast to make weight either.
And yeah, there's no way I'll be competitive with the c7/Z06, Viper, Ferrari 355 or other cars classed in T1, but I'll get the Z out and race reliably (and safely) as I protest this knucklehead ruling in my own way. Sorry for the lack of pics...
That's a crapload of weight to be bolting into the Z and not something I take lightly (pun intended). So, why the hell am I taking weight out of my Z? I elected to enter my next race in Touring 1 where the minimum weight for the 350Z is 2,450#!!! Not that any racer will ever get an FM chassis down to that weight and stay legal under the rules, but hey, I don't have to carry any ballast to make weight either.
And yeah, there's no way I'll be competitive with the c7/Z06, Viper, Ferrari 355 or other cars classed in T1, but I'll get the Z out and race reliably (and safely) as I protest this knucklehead ruling in my own way. Sorry for the lack of pics...
#10
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Sunday was also the day to lose some serious weight. Per SCCA GCR rules, I had steel flywheels bolted in the passenger footwell using grade 5.5 hardware to make the 3,400 lb. minimum weight limit for T3. However, a recent rules change raised that 100# to 3,500#! After writing my own request to protest this change, it's become apparent nothing is going to get done this summer.
That's a crapload of weight to be bolting into the Z and not something I take lightly (pun intended). So, why the hell am I taking weight out of my Z? I elected to enter my next race in Touring 1 where the minimum weight for the 350Z is 2,450#!!! Not that any racer will ever get an FM chassis down to that weight and stay legal under the rules, but hey, I don't have to carry any ballast to make weight either.
And yeah, there's no way I'll be competitive with the c7/Z06, Viper, Ferrari 355 or other cars classed in T1, but I'll get the Z out and race reliably (and safely) as I protest this knucklehead ruling in my own way. Sorry for the lack of pics...
That's a crapload of weight to be bolting into the Z and not something I take lightly (pun intended). So, why the hell am I taking weight out of my Z? I elected to enter my next race in Touring 1 where the minimum weight for the 350Z is 2,450#!!! Not that any racer will ever get an FM chassis down to that weight and stay legal under the rules, but hey, I don't have to carry any ballast to make weight either.
And yeah, there's no way I'll be competitive with the c7/Z06, Viper, Ferrari 355 or other cars classed in T1, but I'll get the Z out and race reliably (and safely) as I protest this knucklehead ruling in my own way. Sorry for the lack of pics...
"Why yes, Mister Impound, sir, ACID DIP was a factory option!! Look, it's written right here in my service manual!"
"Mister dkmura, sir, that's handwritten by the dealer shop manager."
"And your point is, sir?"
#11
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Thread Starter
iTrader: (64)
Yeah- those rules were written by folks who don't really know the Z33. Even if I had the capability of stripping the car down completely and acid dipping the FM monooque, I doubt I could get 950# out of the existing steel body. A tubeframe chassis would be the only way to drop that much weight (not allowed under SCCA touring rules) and retain equal torsional rigidity.
It usually takes time to work out how to ballast the car for impound. Most SCCA races have impound AFTER the race is over, so you have to juggle fuel load and burn rates to compensate for that loss. At least I don't need to expend much effort to balance out the scales in the next few races...
It usually takes time to work out how to ballast the car for impound. Most SCCA races have impound AFTER the race is over, so you have to juggle fuel load and burn rates to compensate for that loss. At least I don't need to expend much effort to balance out the scales in the next few races...
#12
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Thread Starter
iTrader: (64)
Time for some additional pics:
After having the Z up on jackstands all week, it's almost done. Since the T1 race group has only two cars this weekend (Corvette Gran Sport and me) we were moved to the fourth run group. A number conflict in that group means I had to change my competition # from my usual #7 to #1. Took the ballast out of the car, so at least the weight will be closer to 3,200 pounds, but nowhere near the 2450 minimum weight allowed in T1 trim.
This is about as close to a minty-fresh race Z as I'm likely to see. Fresh paint (AX6) and graphics make it close to what the car looked like when it started in competition back in '08. One point to make, my LF headlight was badly damaged in an race shunt at NOLA earlier this year. I purchased a plastic welder this summer and learned how to use it. The headlight housing itself was broken in three pieces (but not the lens) and two of the three tabs were snapped off. Using the heated metal staples (different shapes for different sections), I was able to reattach all the tabs and reinforce the housing so that it regained most of its structural integrity. Let's hope it looks as good after the weekend as it does in these pics!
After having the Z up on jackstands all week, it's almost done. Since the T1 race group has only two cars this weekend (Corvette Gran Sport and me) we were moved to the fourth run group. A number conflict in that group means I had to change my competition # from my usual #7 to #1. Took the ballast out of the car, so at least the weight will be closer to 3,200 pounds, but nowhere near the 2450 minimum weight allowed in T1 trim.
This is about as close to a minty-fresh race Z as I'm likely to see. Fresh paint (AX6) and graphics make it close to what the car looked like when it started in competition back in '08. One point to make, my LF headlight was badly damaged in an race shunt at NOLA earlier this year. I purchased a plastic welder this summer and learned how to use it. The headlight housing itself was broken in three pieces (but not the lens) and two of the three tabs were snapped off. Using the heated metal staples (different shapes for different sections), I was able to reattach all the tabs and reinforce the housing so that it regained most of its structural integrity. Let's hope it looks as good after the weekend as it does in these pics!
#14
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Thread Starter
iTrader: (64)
The Saturday SCCA Majors race in Pueblo was one hot race. On the grid, I used the multifunction gauge to check the outside temp for the start: 101 degrees F. Yikes! Worse, my cool suit malfunctioned and wasn't pumping any cold water from the bilge pump. The race itself proved to be an exercise in distractions, when the rubber weatherstripping came loose from the DS window channel.
I lost concentration for a moment as it fell on my arm between two turns. I didn't go off, but it certainly messed up my line for part of that lap. Between the heat, episodes of overheating on the front straight (short shifted to bring down the water temps and avoid the dreaded limp mode) and lapping slower cars, it was an action packed race. No surprise to finish second in Touring 1, but at least there was no contact or any other race damage for Sunday's race.
No pics from today, but I'll see what I can post after Sunday.
I lost concentration for a moment as it fell on my arm between two turns. I didn't go off, but it certainly messed up my line for part of that lap. Between the heat, episodes of overheating on the front straight (short shifted to bring down the water temps and avoid the dreaded limp mode) and lapping slower cars, it was an action packed race. No surprise to finish second in Touring 1, but at least there was no contact or any other race damage for Sunday's race.
No pics from today, but I'll see what I can post after Sunday.
Last edited by dkmura; 07-26-2015 at 07:13 PM.
#15
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Thread Starter
iTrader: (64)
Here's a few photos from Sunday's race. Unfortunately, there are no action shots during the race (as yet), since I was the one shooting, but here's a few from the pits:
Sunday was a good day. At the start, my opponent in the GS Vette once again took off from the drop of the green flag, but that's to be expected with a surplus of 150+ horsepower! Pueblo Motorsports Park 2.2-mile road circuit uses the length of its dragstrip as the front straight and you can really stretch the legs of a car before braking for turn one (T1). I used Nissan powa to gain a bit of a lead on the other leading cars before starting through the banked T1. The first few turns are high-speed and the Z doesn't lose much ground to the C6. I love the up-and-down nature of the rest of the track, but the Vette's superior torque had him stretching the lead throughout the lap. By the fifth lap, he had built up a huge lead and I had to concentrate to keep a Super Touring Honda behind me. I was quicker on the straights, but he was so fast through the T5-7 complex, it became a nip-and-tuck battle.
Shortly afterwards, it was clear the leading Vette had a problem! Rather than pull away as he had on Saturday, I began catching him! For the next several laps, I turned in the fastest laps of the weekend as precious seconds were shaved off his dwindling lead. Eventually shot past as he headed for the pits and went on to take Nissan's first T1 win in SCCA Majors competition.
Turns out the Vette driver was nursing a noisy RR wheel bearing and decided not to risk a major failure with it. Through it all, the refreshed Z car didn't miss a beat--although I was still forced to short shift to avoid overheating and limp mode--throughout the weekend. After all the heat, it was a wonderful experience to take a victory lap and enjoy what was a lucky win. Possibly the best part was climbing back in my Titan tow vehicle (pictured behind the racecar in this shot) after getting everything put away. Turn up the a/c and start sipping that cold water to enjoy a sweet ride back home on a hot summer day!
Sunday was a good day. At the start, my opponent in the GS Vette once again took off from the drop of the green flag, but that's to be expected with a surplus of 150+ horsepower! Pueblo Motorsports Park 2.2-mile road circuit uses the length of its dragstrip as the front straight and you can really stretch the legs of a car before braking for turn one (T1). I used Nissan powa to gain a bit of a lead on the other leading cars before starting through the banked T1. The first few turns are high-speed and the Z doesn't lose much ground to the C6. I love the up-and-down nature of the rest of the track, but the Vette's superior torque had him stretching the lead throughout the lap. By the fifth lap, he had built up a huge lead and I had to concentrate to keep a Super Touring Honda behind me. I was quicker on the straights, but he was so fast through the T5-7 complex, it became a nip-and-tuck battle.
Shortly afterwards, it was clear the leading Vette had a problem! Rather than pull away as he had on Saturday, I began catching him! For the next several laps, I turned in the fastest laps of the weekend as precious seconds were shaved off his dwindling lead. Eventually shot past as he headed for the pits and went on to take Nissan's first T1 win in SCCA Majors competition.
Turns out the Vette driver was nursing a noisy RR wheel bearing and decided not to risk a major failure with it. Through it all, the refreshed Z car didn't miss a beat--although I was still forced to short shift to avoid overheating and limp mode--throughout the weekend. After all the heat, it was a wonderful experience to take a victory lap and enjoy what was a lucky win. Possibly the best part was climbing back in my Titan tow vehicle (pictured behind the racecar in this shot) after getting everything put away. Turn up the a/c and start sipping that cold water to enjoy a sweet ride back home on a hot summer day!
Last edited by dkmura; 07-27-2015 at 10:48 AM.
#16
Thanks for postings this David. I always enjoy reading your threads. Although it makes me cringe at how much work I have to do in my car in the future. Fortunately I have lots of time considering I just got signed off for HPDE 2.
Pueblo is a great track. I really enjoyed the weekend down there over the 4th. I need to come check out an SCCA event and pick your brain a bit.
Pueblo is a great track. I really enjoyed the weekend down there over the 4th. I need to come check out an SCCA event and pick your brain a bit.
#17
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Thread Starter
iTrader: (64)
Thanks for postings this David. I always enjoy reading your threads. Although it makes me cringe at how much work I have to do in my car in the future. Fortunately I have lots of time considering I just got signed off for HPDE 2.
Pueblo is a great track. I really enjoyed the weekend down there over the 4th. I need to come check out an SCCA event and pick your brain a bit.
Pueblo is a great track. I really enjoyed the weekend down there over the 4th. I need to come check out an SCCA event and pick your brain a bit.
As for your own racing career, you're in a good place. Learning the basics and putting in the laps is critical and there'll be plenty of time to work on your Z for the future. In fact, with some of the rules in flux now (both SCCA and NASA) it's probably better NOT to be starting a racecar build now.
Glad to hear you enjoy PMP! It's still one of my favorite tracks after almost three decades of racing at different venues around the country. You might be interested to know about the HPDEs we ran way back when the Z33 was still a minty fresh model hot off the showroom floor:
https://my350z.com/forum/south-west/...team-help.html
Just don't be jealous of what the entry fees were like back then.
The following users liked this post:
MicVelo (07-29-2015)
#18
You're welcome, JBJ. Creating this thread is my attempt to put more substance on the board. Tired of looking at all the wanna-be threads and builds that make the Z slower in some variation. Let's talk about the stuff that makes the Z faster or more reliable on the track!
As for your own racing career, you're in a good place. Learning the basics and putting in the laps is critical and there'll be plenty of time to work on your Z for the future. In fact, with some of the rules in flux now (both SCCA and NASA) it's probably better NOT to be starting a racecar build now.
Glad to hear you enjoy PMP! It's still one of my favorite tracks after almost three decades of racing at different venues around the country. You might be interested to know about the HPDEs we ran way back when the Z33 was still a minty fresh model hot off the showroom floor:
https://my350z.com/forum/south-west/...team-help.html
Just don't be jealous of what the entry fees were like back then.
As for your own racing career, you're in a good place. Learning the basics and putting in the laps is critical and there'll be plenty of time to work on your Z for the future. In fact, with some of the rules in flux now (both SCCA and NASA) it's probably better NOT to be starting a racecar build now.
Glad to hear you enjoy PMP! It's still one of my favorite tracks after almost three decades of racing at different venues around the country. You might be interested to know about the HPDEs we ran way back when the Z33 was still a minty fresh model hot off the showroom floor:
https://my350z.com/forum/south-west/...team-help.html
Just don't be jealous of what the entry fees were like back then.
Hopefully I can get the NISMO sways and the KW Clubsports this winter. Definitely a long list of things to buy. I need a raise.
#19
New Member
Wait why do you use 0-40 oil weight instead of the 5-30?
second what is this over heating granny shift issue?
second what is this over heating granny shift issue?
#20
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Thread Starter
iTrader: (64)
Second- shifting at redline in near 100 degree heat has always maxed out the cooling capacity of my HR. And short shifting is NOT granny shifting- you still need to be quick with your hand and the clutch, but rather than shifting at 7500 RPM, I'll cut it to 7200 and then lower my shift points in 200 RPM increments until I get that water temp down.
Lap after lap, as I blasted down the front straight, I noticed the water temps rising past halfway and towards the top of the gauge. You DO NOT want to hit limp mode on the racetrack as it will destroy your race in short order. At PMP, short shifting really only impacted my top end speed (102 vs 108 MPH), as I used fifth gear rather than pull though fourth at the end of the straight. Threshold braking was still tricky and I doubt many grannys would approve of my technique to cool off the Z...
The following users liked this post:
mikeh22 (07-29-2015)