03zz33

Hey guys, This is my first post here ( and I hope it doesn't break too many thread rules).
But as the title suggests, I am planning a build for when I return from my deployment in about 8 months.
I honestly would just like some advice on anything, anyone is willing to offer.

Budget
15k

The Car
So to get started, this will be my first turbo build!
-The car is an 03' base model 350z.
-Has 120,xxx miles, and is daily driven.
-I just did a compression test ~ [ 185,185,187,185,185,182].
-And like many early Zs i have read about, the 3rd gear has quite a lovely grind to it when I'm getting on it.
-It's all stock, just a single exhaust from the y pipe back.

Why build it?
I thought about maybe buying something else to play with, but i own this thing!, so i figured it was my best bet honestly, and i will be debt free, so i didn't want anymore of that stuff.
(Although I am fully aware that may change after this )

Goals[/SIZE]
-Mid twelves in the 1/4 ?? I would like to give those new 5.0s from factory a nice fun for their money!!
-Close to 400whp
-Mostly strait line racing, drags/rolls.

Build

-I am looking at the Powerlab single turbo kit. ~$6,900
Price includes 600cc inj and fuel pump. Although the kit I'm looking at comes with the Presicion 6262, as opposed to the GT35r kits. I could save some money here and go with a GT35r kit.
This is solely based off of price, and the videos I have seen on the youtubes. I also really like the sound.

-For tuning I want to go with a ProEFI Pro48 ECU. ~ $1,119
I was trying to decide between the pro148 and pro48.
From what I could find, the pro148 allows for fancier tuning such as tuning with "speed control" I suppose that means building boost in stages??
but either way, the Pro48 is half the price, and seems to be able to do what I need. Is it a safe bet to go this route?

-Its a base model so it has an open diff
Quaife LSD ~ $1258
4.08 gears ~ $548

-I'm not sure how long the transmission would last with the added power, and the grind it has... Should I wreck it first? lol...
CD009 transmission ~$1894
Regardless of transmission, I will need a new clutch,
zi performance street clutch ~$374 "good" for 500 ft/lbs
I honestly would like to do the transmission, clutch, lsd and gears all at once, easier on me i believe.

and so I am left with about 2700 dollars... I've never had a car tuned before. I'm in the Dallas area so I'm sure there is someone reputable, forgive my lack of knowledge here...
but surely this could cover the cost?

Labor is done by myself, and my old Dad haha, I want to touch everything.

Alternate Build

Should I just build the bottom end ~z1 sells a built short block for about $4,700
and forgo the LSD and gears/transmission etc...
with the turbo kit, ECU, clutch it would cost around 13K that route as well.


In conclusion

So;
Is any of this feasible?? Realistic? and is it normal to put this kind of money into the car for that performance?? I understand there is more to this than parts shopping online...

Thanks for reading!, and any advice is greatly appreciated!

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

First off - thank you for your service...

I can't speak to the dollars associated with your parts but it passes the sniff test...

Looks like compression is consistent and maybe perform a leak down test ... if that's good then I wouldnt rebuild the block if you are looking for 400whp. You'll get bored with 400whp at some point, crank up the boost and thats when you'll want a built block.

Do you have support for the ProEFI? I would look into Osiris first and then haltech...you don't need a complicated tuning solution bc you're not pushing monster numbers...

I have the Jim Wolf Tech clutch flywheel setup and I like it...

The transmission/LSD/FD is easy to drop and swap...so if you forgo it for now you can always pick it up down the road...

Justin100

to start off with, I think 400 whp on a 120k motor is a bad idea.

my z had 130k on a stock motor, i took it out, didnt even bother trying to boost it. just immediately went into building a new motor.

yes you ran a compression test and it looks fine but i promise you all of what you are planning to do will not last long.

you dont need proefi ecu for 400 whp. get a osiris uprev reflash of the stock ecu. probably cost about 700 bucks. proefi, haltech, aem standalones are meant for people going for serious horsepower levels.....like 550+ hp....

its going to cost you more because you have to purchase a map sensor, and dual widebands to put in the down pipes to measure a/f ratios....the extra cost is not necessary when you can do a reflash for the tune.


if you want any type of forced induction, get another motor build it up or be a girl and find someone to build the engine for you, then buy a turbo kit.......powerlab, momentum, and greddy, APS for turbo everything else is sh11t.

if the z is your daily driver, you'll always be at risk of it possibly blowing up and not having a car. if you decide to build your car up buy a beater for a second car.

400 whp doesnt feel fun imo, try 600whp.....

03zz33

Thanks for the feedback!

I read through some of the threads..
and Yeah I will probably build the block...
Talked to my dad, He thinks that with the compression test...
the cylinder walls should be healthy.. so will probably go with
Wiseco 8.8 CR pistons
Cometic Head Gasket
Carillo Super A connecting rods
ACL race bearings
and ARP head studs.
about $2700

It also seems as tho the ProEFI would be a bit overkill?...
I had just heard time and time again that if the tune sucks,
then everything else would be pointless.
I just wanted the best equipment to aid the tuning process.

Nicely enough, there are 5 locations in Dallas that support Osiris Uprev tuning, so that is a good lead!

Ill be sitting just over 11k with block, turbo kit, uprev tune, and clutch. maybe some fatter tires/wheels, and ill be at budget.

I'm going to keep researching, thanks for the help!

Justin100

whats your maximum power goals on a built block?

if its 550hp max at the crank - you dont need carillo rods, can get eagle rods instead, they are good well into 750 whp.

of course tune is definitely important....i dont have much experience with proefi all i know is that their are 2 most popular ecu tuning solutions on this forum for the 350z. its either a osiris uprev reflash or a haltech standalone plug and play. everything else is either not spoken about, or are just plain sh11ty.

if you want the best tuning solution get a haltech they have a unit specifically made for the 350z that just replaces the stock ecu and thats about it you dont have to buy a separate harness.

you think its 11k..........trust me you'll be in many situations like me where everybody at my local autozone, oreily auto parts, and harbor freight all know me by name.

if you do a osiris uprev reflash you have to buy a upgrade maf sensor if you get a hpx maf sensor that cost 230 bucks, or a uprev gt maf sensor that goes for 350 bucks.

labor- whos going to do the install? do you have all the necessary tools already? if you plan on building the motor yourself make sure you constantly read the factory service manual and watch videos and tutorials of others building blocks. you will have to find a reputable machine shop that you can trust to do the .020 bore and hone on your block, hot tank and bead blast, also balance your crankshaft with your new stuff......that will run you..400-500 bucks.....

theirs going to be plenty of small things you'll need to buy along the way........trust me i know....it was really exhausting

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Plan on spending that $11k and put add 20% for **** you didnt think of...it happens...

Osiris and Haltech are the shows in this town but Link G4+ and AEM Infinity are two other very capable tuning platforms...check out High Performance Academy, they are out of Australia and run a DE 350z and have multiple tuning platforms that they use - it'd be my guess that they have a very good feel for the best tuning solutions for the car - might be worth an email to the guys...and if you're interested in learning more about the electronics/tuning of the car look into their coursework.

Alot of people opt for the Cometic / HKS head gaskets, which I will concede are better, but when I did my head gaskets, I went with OEM HRs because I wanted to install a weak-link into the system - it may seem counterintuitive but if **** hits the fan, I want the gaskets to pop first...

Furthermore, I am a firm believer that no matter what studs/gaskets you choose, a bad tune will plow right through them...

make sure you get the L19 ARP studs...