Project: Nismo roadster
03-27-2015, 08:38 AM
#264
club and trav - If ya keep this up, I wont have any cash to spend!!!
My thoughts are this....get the engine H brace installed, finish the center console, wet sand bumpers, spoiler, and trunk, get top working, get Nismo wheels (if I can find some), get get a Nismo.....you know... little thing that sticks to the back of the trunk....it starts with "B" and ends with "adge".
Second phase would be to doll it up...headlights, tail lights (maybe JDM), hood (is the 06+ hood really that different?), parking brake handle (I love the GTR bit), SS brake lines, etc.
My thoughts are this....get the engine H brace installed, finish the center console, wet sand bumpers, spoiler, and trunk, get top working, get Nismo wheels (if I can find some), get get a Nismo.....you know... little thing that sticks to the back of the trunk....it starts with "B" and ends with "adge".
Second phase would be to doll it up...headlights, tail lights (maybe JDM), hood (is the 06+ hood really that different?), parking brake handle (I love the GTR bit), SS brake lines, etc.
Last edited by DeusExMaxima; 03-27-2015 at 08:42 AM.
03-27-2015, 08:51 AM
#265
07+ hood flows much better with the V3 bumper you have. Side profile with the hump to the front bumper line looks great.
I would get the USDM LED tail lights because I hate the JDM clear altezza look.
For stainless lines I would get the Z1 premium stainless lines since they retain the brembo small hard line bit and fit more OEM'ish.
I would get the USDM LED tail lights because I hate the JDM clear altezza look.
For stainless lines I would get the Z1 premium stainless lines since they retain the brembo small hard line bit and fit more OEM'ish.
Last edited by clubhopper; 03-27-2015 at 08:53 AM.
03-29-2015, 09:17 PM
#275
Today I wet sanded the trunk and rear bumper. I started with 1000 and ended with 5000 grit. Then I used rubbing compound and polish. Its better than it was.
I also solved the brake issue. My brake light came on and I check the fluid and it was low. I noticed a wet spot on the ground by the left rear wheel. I jacked up the car and remove the wheel and discovered that the brake line was leaking at the junction between the hard original line and the flexible aftermarket line that I installed. The brake line was tight so I figured that I needed a washer for the brake line to seat against. After doing some running around I ended up at Lowes and bought some small brass washers one of which ended up inside the little box which is the brake junction. I connected it back up noticed that there was no brake fluid leaking now and bled the system. The brakes feel much better. I will bleed the entire system a bit later
Another pic:
I also solved the brake issue. My brake light came on and I check the fluid and it was low. I noticed a wet spot on the ground by the left rear wheel. I jacked up the car and remove the wheel and discovered that the brake line was leaking at the junction between the hard original line and the flexible aftermarket line that I installed. The brake line was tight so I figured that I needed a washer for the brake line to seat against. After doing some running around I ended up at Lowes and bought some small brass washers one of which ended up inside the little box which is the brake junction. I connected it back up noticed that there was no brake fluid leaking now and bled the system. The brakes feel much better. I will bleed the entire system a bit later
Another pic:
03-31-2015, 01:29 AM
#276
Today I bought some 06+ side panels for the updated center console. They should be here by friday. I also have a gear I dicator bulb for the shifter on its way. Finally, I made a battery hold down bracket out of aluminum and a battery hold down kit. I plan to take it to the track tomorrow...Tuesday....acrually today....and thrash it and see how it does.
The brakes seem better today and the car drives beautifully. Cheers.
The brakes seem better today and the car drives beautifully. Cheers.
03-31-2015, 05:52 AM
#277
Sorry if you already mentioned this in a previous post, but what sort of problems are you having with the top? Are you hearing clicking noises or things like that? Does the passenger seat move and windows go down, but the top doesn't move? There's a lot of switches and actuators in the brake pedal, door switch module, and motor assembly. I imagine you already checked all the fuses. That fifth bow motor can be a PITA.
03-31-2015, 08:39 AM
#278
General & Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Deus, I think your answer to top/down manually is post #9 in the other thred. When I did my top the stoopid limit switch behind driver got bent slightly leaving 6" to the deck. Bent it back and boom. Of course you know to release the 2 struts w 10mm. Getting the ton eau up manually means taking out rear speaker section, no access from trunk.
03-31-2015, 09:47 AM
#279
Heel and jhc - Remember I have non-electric seats in my car now because I swapped in the Nismo seats. The windows roll down and I hear some clicks. Here is a chronology of my top problem:
1. Top seemed to work when I bought the car in Sept 2014.
2. Top was down when I bought the car and i left it that way.
3. I removed the factory electric seats and swapped in Nismo non-electric seats. I forgot to swap the white control box under the seat.
4. I tried to close the top on a rainy day but it didnt close. I believe it didnt close because I forgot the white controlk box.
5. I manually closed the top per the service manual instructions. Those instructions included disconnecting two grey connectors, and disconnecting the small arms on both sides of the top.
6. I installed the white control box from the electric seats and put it under my Nismo seats.
7. Top wont go down now because the grey connectors and arms are not connected.
I need to get the two grey connectors connected but there is no access because the top and storage cover are in the way. Also the arms wont hook back up to their respective mounting places. The service manual does not account for opening the top if you have closed it manually. Even though it says that it cannot be opened manually, this must not be true because if you close it manually, you would never be able to open it again, and thats not realistic. I think Nissan does not want owners manually opening the top because it may be complex. Im certain there is a way to do it.
Observations:
I think if I can manually raise the rear of the top, I should be able to open the storage lid and then have access to the two grey connectors and I should be able to hook up the two arms. Since the white control box is now hooked up, the top SHOULD work.
Question:
Do I need my electric seats or do I just need the white control box from the electric seats? Has any roadster owner put in aftermarket seats and swapped the control box?
1. Top seemed to work when I bought the car in Sept 2014.
2. Top was down when I bought the car and i left it that way.
3. I removed the factory electric seats and swapped in Nismo non-electric seats. I forgot to swap the white control box under the seat.
4. I tried to close the top on a rainy day but it didnt close. I believe it didnt close because I forgot the white controlk box.
5. I manually closed the top per the service manual instructions. Those instructions included disconnecting two grey connectors, and disconnecting the small arms on both sides of the top.
6. I installed the white control box from the electric seats and put it under my Nismo seats.
7. Top wont go down now because the grey connectors and arms are not connected.
I need to get the two grey connectors connected but there is no access because the top and storage cover are in the way. Also the arms wont hook back up to their respective mounting places. The service manual does not account for opening the top if you have closed it manually. Even though it says that it cannot be opened manually, this must not be true because if you close it manually, you would never be able to open it again, and thats not realistic. I think Nissan does not want owners manually opening the top because it may be complex. Im certain there is a way to do it.
Observations:
I think if I can manually raise the rear of the top, I should be able to open the storage lid and then have access to the two grey connectors and I should be able to hook up the two arms. Since the white control box is now hooked up, the top SHOULD work.
Question:
Do I need my electric seats or do I just need the white control box from the electric seats? Has any roadster owner put in aftermarket seats and swapped the control box?
