I didn't see a working DIY for the sway bar install, so I figured I'd do a little write up. This isn't a hard DIY at all, so you should be able to do it even if you don't have much experience working on cars. It's pretty straight forward. Sorry for the huge pics, but I don't feel like resizing them. Plus, bigger the pics, the better.
Hope this helps some of you guys.
level of difficulty:
1.25 out of 5 (5 being hardest)
approximate install time:
about 60 minutes
tools:
jack and stands
socket wrench with extension
10, 14, 17mm sockets
wd-40/pb blaster
Rear Sway Bar:
*note: using pb blaster/wd-40 will help with the rusted bolts/nuts.
1. Jack up the car high enough using the standard jack points (or frame) so you can slide under the car easily.
2. Remove the rear right wheel for easier access to the sway bar. (I don't remember it really helping or not helping, but I remember reading it in one of the directions)
3. There are
two plastic covers, each with
three 10mm nuts/bolts, right under the rear sway bar ends. Remove them.
4. There is
one nut at each end of the sway bar bolted to the end link, which you need to remove using a
14mm socket. "Unhook" the ends from the rear sway bar.
5. Remove the nuts that hold the mid-pipe and the muffler in place. It'll be easier to take out and put in the sway bar with them disconnected. It's also easier if you take the mid-pipe off the rubber mount as it will move more freely.
6. As you probably have seen, there is a metal bracket holding up the sway bar on each side. Remove them by taking off the
two 14mm nuts holding each of them in place. (Be sure to re-use the stock rubber dampener that was fitted on your stock sway bars for the metal brackets, if your sways did not come with them)
7. Take out the rear sway bar by sliding it out between the mid-pipe and muffler.
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8. Now, with the new sway bar, just follow the above directions, but in reverse order.
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Front Sway Bar: (directions are similar to the rears, so this'll be shorter with less pictures)
*note: using pb blaster/wd-40 will help with the rusted bolts/nuts.
1. Jack up the car high enough using the standard jack points (or frame) so you can slide under the car easily.
2. Remove the huge splash guard directly under the engine to gain access to the sway bar. These are plastic push clips and screws (
10mm).
[no pic]
3. Remove the
17mm nut from each end of the front sway bar/end link and "unhook" the sway bar from the end link.
4. Again, you'll see a metal bracket holding up the sway bar in place. There are
four 14mm bolts holding up the brakets in place. Remove them and then the brackets.
5. Remove the front sway bar. (Be sure to re-use the stock rubber dampener that was fitted on your stock sway bars for the metal brackets, if your sways did not come with them)
[no pic]
6. Now, with the new sway bar, just follow the above directions, but in reverse order. When bolting up the brackets, be sure to thread them all in first before tightening.
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