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Originally Posted by Eagle1
IF you are going to be running NA, and go to the track only occasionally, you might want to consider a torsion sensing (Torsen) screw type lsd. They are very quiet and smooth, and thus in daily driving applications very civilized. The clutch type mechanical lsd unit, like a Cusco or Nismo, is a "bad boy" that will chatter and chirp and grab in slow speed tight turns in parking lots and intersections. For the hard core high power application, however, I would not recommend it. Quaife makes a nice unit that fits our cars, if that is of interest.
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I plan to keep my engine NA and relatively stock (powerwise). The car sees the track ~20-25 days/year and is no longer used as a DD due to a growing family and its inability to carry my road bike (my true daily driver). If I wasn't taking this car to the track, I would have sold it by now. I don't even bother swapping in street pads and tires anymore. For the price and the car's intended use and power levels, the Cusco RS/Nismo units are hard to beat.
I've been very happy with the engagement of the Cusco RS unit. Yes, the tires chirp in slow sharp corners, but the unit doesn't chatter. It might be due to the WPC treatment of the clutch discs prior to installation. I'm also running the Motul 90PA fluid. When I was using the Valvoline High Performance Gear Oil, the LSD was a bit more jerky.
I've upped the front-end negative camber from -2.6 to 3.0 to see if I can get a bit more grip out of the RA1 tires. The rear seems to be gripping and wearing well at -2.2 camber. We'll see how it goes this weekend. If the changes do not work, I'll stiffen my front Hotchkis sway bars from med to stiff. This step puzzles me because it should technically decrease my front end grip, but a few respectable individuals have had success with running a stiffer sway setting up front.
If that doesn't work, I'll increase my rear ride height to add some rake into it. It is currently adjusted for equal static height as measured from the ground to the chassis seams. I'm thinking that rear squat under acceleration is causing the rear end to be lower thereby adding a bit of front end lift under med/high speed corners. OE calls for a slight rake (~1/2" higher in the back). The car exhibits a nice 4-wheel drift on slower corners (ie T14 at Thnderhill), so maybe aerodynamics is coming into play here.
If that doesn't work, I'm going to increase my front springs to ~600#. This step comes from a Carrol Smith book, AND it works well for daveh. If that doesn't work, I'll add a front splitter. And, if that doesn't work, I'm going to take Daveh's suggestion and take apart the LSD to change the settings --->60% locking (eek!). This is my last step because it seems that rear end grip is very good, which is causing front-end problems....but in the end, I prefer a balanced and well sorted car over one that has the more overall grip but pushes.
G35Sedan is right, and I'm using OTS Koni Yellow with Tom Motorsport springs (500/500). These spring rates are 'published', but not verified. I'm maxed out on rear end rebound, but have some more rebound adj on the front if I need to add more.