Car pulling to the right after alignment.
#1
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Car pulling to the right after alignment.
I got all new tires put on my car from Tire Kingdom. Goodyear Eagle Gt's. Unfortunately I didn't have any other choice as nothing else was in stock that would fit my car.
Anyway, I didn't have them do the alignment because I figured if I had a Nissan dealership do it and I developed tire feathering they couldn't blame it on someone else.
The car had a slight pull to the right after the new tires were put on. After I took it to the dealership and got the car back it still has a slight pull to the right.
I pretty much have to have the steering wheel slightly to the left to keep the car straight, as soon as I let go it will begin to drift to the right.
I took it back to the dealership a week later (due to the holidays) and one of the service guys rode in the car for 30 minutes. He said the alignment was to spec (I have the printout) and that its normal for cars to drift somewhat.
Actually, he started counting outloud the first time he let go of the wheel and got to 7 seconds before the car was in the middle lane from the left lane and said "If it takes more than 5 seconds between lanes thats within Spec" WTF?! He said this a few more times and I started getting really ticked off. Finally I told him to show me that in writting and I will leave him alone right that instant, but of course he said it's not in writting (because he is full of crap).
Anyway, in the end he said it was all due to the road and they wouldn't do anything for me.
What can I do to fix my car? It didn't do this prior to these new tires/alignment.
Anyway, I didn't have them do the alignment because I figured if I had a Nissan dealership do it and I developed tire feathering they couldn't blame it on someone else.
The car had a slight pull to the right after the new tires were put on. After I took it to the dealership and got the car back it still has a slight pull to the right.
I pretty much have to have the steering wheel slightly to the left to keep the car straight, as soon as I let go it will begin to drift to the right.
I took it back to the dealership a week later (due to the holidays) and one of the service guys rode in the car for 30 minutes. He said the alignment was to spec (I have the printout) and that its normal for cars to drift somewhat.
Actually, he started counting outloud the first time he let go of the wheel and got to 7 seconds before the car was in the middle lane from the left lane and said "If it takes more than 5 seconds between lanes thats within Spec" WTF?! He said this a few more times and I started getting really ticked off. Finally I told him to show me that in writting and I will leave him alone right that instant, but of course he said it's not in writting (because he is full of crap).
Anyway, in the end he said it was all due to the road and they wouldn't do anything for me.
What can I do to fix my car? It didn't do this prior to these new tires/alignment.
#2
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First, don't go to the stealership again. Second, the tech is an idiot. Third, go to a good tire store and get an alignment check. If it's out, get a printout and take it back to the dealer and get your money back. I wouldn't even let them try to fix it after all of the smoke you've been blown. I think I would have ripped the tech real fast if he'd given me that "It's normal to drift" crap. GL with it.
Something you might look at is the wheel position. I had an alignment done years ago and the alignment was correct except for the wheel position. That is the last thing that should be done during an alignment. If it is out, then get them to let you set the wheel position so that you are happy with it.
Something you might look at is the wheel position. I had an alignment done years ago and the alignment was correct except for the wheel position. That is the last thing that should be done during an alignment. If it is out, then get them to let you set the wheel position so that you are happy with it.
Last edited by TreeFiddyZee; 12-31-2008 at 06:06 AM.
#3
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By wheel position, you mean the steering wheel?
I agree they are completely a stealership... I just don't want to fight a warranty issue w/ tire problems if I get it done at a non-Nissan shop.
I agree they are completely a stealership... I just don't want to fight a warranty issue w/ tire problems if I get it done at a non-Nissan shop.
#5
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Actually it's if it takes "less than seven seconds" according to Nissan:
I wouldn't be too hard on the guy since he was just following the guidelines presented to him by his employer. I still think it's a ridiculously poor standard though.
Chances are they just aligned the front as they can get away with this on most non-performance cars. In my experinece, on the Z, the rear must be aligned first or the front alignment alone won't be enough to make the car track straight. If you have the before and after print outs you can confirm this as well as learn what works and what doesn't with your particular car/setup. You paid for a 4-wheel alignment and you could have used that information to get your car back up on the rack. If they still won't fix it, take it somewhere else and dispute the charge with your credit card company.
just do some general research on alignment and Thrust Angle before you head back in so you armed with knowledge instead of a sore attitude:
TireRack is a good place to start. Good luck.
I wouldn't be too hard on the guy since he was just following the guidelines presented to him by his employer. I still think it's a ridiculously poor standard though.
Chances are they just aligned the front as they can get away with this on most non-performance cars. In my experinece, on the Z, the rear must be aligned first or the front alignment alone won't be enough to make the car track straight. If you have the before and after print outs you can confirm this as well as learn what works and what doesn't with your particular car/setup. You paid for a 4-wheel alignment and you could have used that information to get your car back up on the rack. If they still won't fix it, take it somewhere else and dispute the charge with your credit card company.
just do some general research on alignment and Thrust Angle before you head back in so you armed with knowledge instead of a sore attitude:
Originally Posted by TireRack
On all vehicles with four-wheel independent suspensions, or front-wheel drive vehicles with adjustable rear suspensions, the appropriate alignment is a four-wheel alignment. This procedure "squares" the vehicle like a thrust angle alignment, and also includes measuring and adjusting the rear axle angles as well as the front.
#6
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The car is probably aligned properly as that is easy to check and set. The fact that you have new tires, especially Goodyears makes me immediately suspect a bad tire.
I used to use Goodyears almost exclusively. About 10 years ago, I had some horrible experiences with several Goodyear Aquatred tires - a little problem known as "radial pull". To make a long story short, defective tires can cause a car to pull to the left or right due to faulty belts. I eventually dumped the Goodyears and have never had a problem with any other tire I've used since then. I swore off Goodyears for good and couldn't be happier.
I used to use Goodyears almost exclusively. About 10 years ago, I had some horrible experiences with several Goodyear Aquatred tires - a little problem known as "radial pull". To make a long story short, defective tires can cause a car to pull to the left or right due to faulty belts. I eventually dumped the Goodyears and have never had a problem with any other tire I've used since then. I swore off Goodyears for good and couldn't be happier.
#7
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The car is probably aligned properly as that is easy to check and set. The fact that you have new tires, especially Goodyears makes me immediately suspect a bad tire.
I used to use Goodyears almost exclusively. About 10 years ago, I had some horrible experiences with several Goodyear Aquatred tires - a little problem known as "radial pull". To make a long story short, defective tires can cause a car to pull to the left or right due to faulty belts. I eventually dumped the Goodyears and have never had a problem with any other tire I've used since then. I swore off Goodyears for good and couldn't be happier.
I used to use Goodyears almost exclusively. About 10 years ago, I had some horrible experiences with several Goodyear Aquatred tires - a little problem known as "radial pull". To make a long story short, defective tires can cause a car to pull to the left or right due to faulty belts. I eventually dumped the Goodyears and have never had a problem with any other tire I've used since then. I swore off Goodyears for good and couldn't be happier.
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#8
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I agree with above and would suspect the tires first. I had a similar issue with my last car, where I had to hold the wheel turned to one side to go straigth. Drove me nuts. However, after I changed tires and did an allignment, the problem was still there. I went to a good wheel shop in my area and they said its definitely the steering wheel position. I never got it fixed as i sold the car. I'm not sure about what is it exactly that has to be done to take the steering wheel off and set it correctly, but, i just know that its doable. The dealer is following his rules, but he has to be open to your suggested fix. I would go back to them and see if they will accommodate that.
Good luck, due.
Good luck, due.
#9
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I agree with above and would suspect the tires first. I had a similar issue with my last car, where I had to hold the wheel turned to one side to go straigth. Drove me nuts. However, after I changed tires and did an allignment, the problem was still there. I went to a good wheel shop in my area and they said its definitely the steering wheel position. I never got it fixed as i sold the car. I'm not sure about what is it exactly that has to be done to take the steering wheel off and set it correctly, but, i just know that its doable. The dealer is following his rules, but he has to be open to your suggested fix. I would go back to them and see if they will accommodate that.
Good luck, due.
Good luck, due.
#11
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Your alignment can be perfect and the car still pull due to your tires' conicity, i.e. they roll like a round cone would. Depending on how cone-shaped your tire is can cause a force on the car to the right or left. Every tire has a measure of conicity - some to the right, some to the left and some have 0. If both of your front tires pull the same way (for example, left), your car will likely go that way.
Every car also has it's own measure of pull , and OEs match tires to cars basically so that they go straight down the inside lane of the highway.
In short, you probably have two tires that pull the same way.
Every car also has it's own measure of pull , and OEs match tires to cars basically so that they go straight down the inside lane of the highway.
In short, you probably have two tires that pull the same way.
#12
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Bummer that the OP made his only two posts in this thread and never posted results. I'm having the same issue with my car.. got an alignment - everyone was happy with the numbers, but about two blocks away from the shopp.. I could tell something was up.
I figured I would give them the benefit of the doubt and give it some time and ample testing.. but this thing is pulling to the right. doesn't matter the crowning or angle of the road..
Going back tomorrow to have them check the steering wheel position - because it seems to be cocked to the right a bit too.
side note- surprised that my front camber was so far off after installing the SPL v3 arms. left -.77 and right -1.05. An alignment check (at a different shop) had front camber at -1.6 and -1.7 with the OEM A arms about 2 weeks prior.
I figured I would give them the benefit of the doubt and give it some time and ample testing.. but this thing is pulling to the right. doesn't matter the crowning or angle of the road..
Going back tomorrow to have them check the steering wheel position - because it seems to be cocked to the right a bit too.
side note- surprised that my front camber was so far off after installing the SPL v3 arms. left -.77 and right -1.05. An alignment check (at a different shop) had front camber at -1.6 and -1.7 with the OEM A arms about 2 weeks prior.
#13
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They are not taking the time to do the job right!
With the SPL front upper control arms, they have adjustable Camber and Caster, so their is no reason that they can't get it to drive straight.
Personally, I like about .-75* to -1* max Camber, more just eats up the inside of the tires for the street. Both sides need to be the same.
Caster about 8* to 9* Both side need to be the same.
More Caster on the left will push to the right and vise vera.
More Camber on the left will push to the right and vise vera.
Toe per 350z specs. Toe has little to do with driving straight. To much will eat the tires. To little and it may wander a bit.
And with all of the adjustments you can compensate for just about any condition.
Also, if everything is set correctly, and it still pulls, it could be the tires. If they are Non-directional, swap the tires left to right and right to left.
Hope this helps.......
TimRod
With the SPL front upper control arms, they have adjustable Camber and Caster, so their is no reason that they can't get it to drive straight.
Personally, I like about .-75* to -1* max Camber, more just eats up the inside of the tires for the street. Both sides need to be the same.
Caster about 8* to 9* Both side need to be the same.
More Caster on the left will push to the right and vise vera.
More Camber on the left will push to the right and vise vera.
Toe per 350z specs. Toe has little to do with driving straight. To much will eat the tires. To little and it may wander a bit.
And with all of the adjustments you can compensate for just about any condition.
Also, if everything is set correctly, and it still pulls, it could be the tires. If they are Non-directional, swap the tires left to right and right to left.
Hope this helps.......
TimRod
Bummer that the OP made his only two posts in this thread and never posted results. I'm having the same issue with my car.. got an alignment - everyone was happy with the numbers, but about two blocks away from the shopp.. I could tell something was up.
I figured I would give them the benefit of the doubt and give it some time and ample testing.. but this thing is pulling to the right. doesn't matter the crowning or angle of the road..
Going back tomorrow to have them check the steering wheel position - because it seems to be cocked to the right a bit too.
side note- surprised that my front camber was so far off after installing the SPL v3 arms. left -.77 and right -1.05. An alignment check (at a different shop) had front camber at -1.6 and -1.7 with the OEM A arms about 2 weeks prior.
I figured I would give them the benefit of the doubt and give it some time and ample testing.. but this thing is pulling to the right. doesn't matter the crowning or angle of the road..
Going back tomorrow to have them check the steering wheel position - because it seems to be cocked to the right a bit too.
side note- surprised that my front camber was so far off after installing the SPL v3 arms. left -.77 and right -1.05. An alignment check (at a different shop) had front camber at -1.6 and -1.7 with the OEM A arms about 2 weeks prior.
#14
Registered User
The steering-wheel alignment could be the result of a poor wheel alignment or carelessness. The latter would be that the wheels line up fine, but they did ensure that steering wheel was in the correct position when adjusting the tie rods. Aside from a poor wheel alignment job, tires with broken belts (tire's internal cords are messed up) will cause a car to pull in one direction. I had similar issue with old Volvo and complained to the shop about its "poor" work. I was told that the pulling problem would go away with new front tires and they were right.
Last of all, I've had two quality issues with Dunlop tires (a company owned by Goodyear), so I avoid anything made by that company.
Last of all, I've had two quality issues with Dunlop tires (a company owned by Goodyear), so I avoid anything made by that company.
#15
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Heh.. funny you should mention Dunlop.. My new tires are Dunlop Direzza ZII's.
Straightening the steering wheel to my liking did not resolve the issue. They did remove the tires and inspected them and did not see any glaring issues with them. So I am going to put some more miles on them and see if they 'break in'..
I am also going to try rolling on someone else's wheels/tires to see how my car rides with a completely different setup.
Straightening the steering wheel to my liking did not resolve the issue. They did remove the tires and inspected them and did not see any glaring issues with them. So I am going to put some more miles on them and see if they 'break in'..
I am also going to try rolling on someone else's wheels/tires to see how my car rides with a completely different setup.
#16
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The shop should be putting a weight in your drivers seat (or a person) to compensate when doing your alignment.
Post your alignment sheet...
AND lets not forget this could be a symptom of either wonky LCA bushings or floppy lower compression arm bushings (lower compression arm bush-mush will cause wandering under braking and an increased tendency to tramline, which could include the crown in the road)
Post your alignment sheet...
AND lets not forget this could be a symptom of either wonky LCA bushings or floppy lower compression arm bushings (lower compression arm bush-mush will cause wandering under braking and an increased tendency to tramline, which could include the crown in the road)