FineWine

iTrader: (10)

still disagree. Wasn't that hard to do, and looks cleaner than drilling a hole.

Took 20 minutes to do the second time.

trusovici

iTrader: (2)

please do yourself a favor and do this the real way. dont drill holes into your car.

ssaya401

forgot to add, I have the 08 automatic roadster and it is set up different than the manual, there is a gap and then a plate on the inside as well as plastic covering before you can get anywhere near the inside of the molex. My drill could barely reach the actual sheet metal even with my body contorted in strange ways and my knees elbows and knuckles bleeding. Then the pilot hole drill bit snapped from the torque so i had to reach in with pliers and rip that out, then I did it with a big 3/8'' and got through. Very scary moment.



Here is the driver side, hole slightly in front of molex when facing it. Threw some expanding foam on there for water tight seal, doesn't get touched when door closed.

On the passenger side its just about the same thing, except my drill would not fit or reach so that I could do it in front of the molex, I had to go behind which was much easier BUT BUT BUT right where the drill comes out is the actual door when it's opened, I put my weight lifting belt so that it would not chew the side of my door when the drill bit came out and that saved me from wrecking my door's paint with the drill.

As hard as this was I STILL wouldn't touch the molex.

On the 08 automatic roadster the carpet is stapled down so you can't lift it to run wire however 3 rca cables and a 14 gauge wire will fit under the plastic lip thing but above the carpet on the driver side.

I have not hidden my passenger side wire yet as the power cable is on that side and I want to see if there is noise before getting everything set over there.

Cheeko

iTrader: (13)

I would like to thank all who contributed to this thread. You guys made this task a lot easier than it could have been. I used the soldering iron to start holes in the harnesses and then drilled to keep the holes neat. I ran 16g wire without a hitch. The wire was thick enough and tough enough for me to just thread it through the rubber hose. I spent about 4 hours with a lot of breaks and taking my time.

Thanks all!!

Cheeko

iTrader: (13)

Oh yeah use a pair of Mechanix gloves... Saved me from any cuts and bruises.

beezee

iTrader: (19)

Just did this too. After reading through the thread, I conditioned my mind that it was going to be tough. Turned out easier. I ran a 12 gauge. Not that I need that but I was like, why not go big while at it

djarzy

Too much for me lol !!!

JMII

I just finished up my install and will post a build log with more details but I can say without a doubt running the wires thru that connector was a major pain and the worst part of the whole install. However it was worth it... I've got a complete stock look but with separate tweeter and midrange 16 gauge wiring and the crossovers are safely under the seats.

As other's mentioned that are a few tricks that make it easier, so after you've done one side the other side is not so horrible. Wearing gloves is a must especially on the passenger side or else the metal in there will slice you to death I used a dremel and once you get over the fear, take your time, be extra careful, its not too bad. If you have big hands or fingers forget... I've got thin, long fingers and barely managed. If you ham fisted you've got no hope. In order for the parts to fit back together the alignment has to be perfect but you can't really see what your doing. Its very difficult to say the least. Thus I wouldn't want to do it again, nor could you pay me enough to do it to someone else's car

I actually had to do the passenger side TWICE because when I tested the power window it didn't work. However I later realized you have to have BOTH sets (driver and passenger) window controls hooked up (DUH!) for the passenger window to actually move despite using the driver's side switch.

Whoever was the first to do this desires an award I wouldn't have even attempted it without these detailed instructions because it looks impossible when you first start: the connector is too small, the area your working in too cramped and there are too many slight adjustments needed to pull it off.

03zcoupe

i kno this is an old thread.. but i think i messed up the wire harness i had to drill through because i cannot roll my passenger window back up. I'm positive it has to do with that harness. i must of messed up one of the metal pin things that has to do with the passenger window. could someone please tell me where to get a wiring diagram for that harness? or even what the name of that specific plug is called? please! thanks!

onetimebob

iTrader: (1)

bump from the dead! what's the name of the law that states "if something can go wrong, it will?"

03zcoupe, did you ever find a solution to your prob, cuz im in the same boat as you? guess for now im off the land of "advanced search" and google

mnDanger69

I'm replacing my stock BOSE system with
Front: JL Audio C5-650 6-1/2" 75W RMS 2-Way Component Car Speakers
Rear: JL Audio C2-650X Evolution™ Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers
Sub: JL Audio 10W3v3-2 Item# 19278 10" 1000W 2-Ohm Subwoofer
Amp: XD700/5 - JL Audio 5-Channel 700W Class D Amplifier
I already have a new Kenwood Double Dinn Head unit in the car. How important is it to replace the actual speaker wire in the car? I want to do this right, what is wrong with the speaker wire that is already in the car now? Sorry but I don't know alot about car stereos. I do understand the theory behind the bigger the gauge the more it can handle.

CRIDDA

iTrader: (10)

In order to run amplified power to the speakers, you will run new wires from the amp and not the head unit. Therefore, you will need to run all new speaker wire to the new speakers.

Lugo03z

Ok guys, I just ran new wire to my doors while installing my new set of JBL MC62 S components.

I found a 100% easier way to run the wire. Just below that big harness that everyone is having trouble with is a small rubber plug. Pop that plug out, slice an x in it with a razor and run a your wire through it.

Remove the kick panel, put the plug with the wire ran through it back in its hole and push the wire in until you can see it on the inside of the car. Then just cut a small hole in the big grommet in the door and feed the other end of the wire through.

I will. Try to get pics.

openupitsdave

Sorry for bringing this hellish thread back... I just bought a 350z and am planning to replace everything: HU, speakers, amp, sub...

Just by the amount of people in this thread that screwed something up by doing it the OP's method tells me its NOT a good idea... actually seems pretty stupid. You want a cleaner look or stock "feel"? ... as if anyone looks between the crack of your door and car...

Im looking for some more information and hopefully PICS of the methods ssaya401, Peak350, TURBOROADSTER, and Lugo03z are talking about.... a tutorial would be nice..

Honestly, I wouldnt mind drilling a hole or two if I knew nothing was behind it waiting to be perma-fudged. This drilling into the Molex seems ridiculous though. I HOPE after all these years people have realized this..

beezee

iTrader: (19)

Only sounds stupid if you don't know what you are doing especially for a guy that still wants a tutorial after reading through the thread. A lot of room in that molex to drill through. Drilling through the metal actually increases risk of rust unless you cover up the exposed metal very well

openupitsdave

No, it actually sounds stupid for the reasons I listed..

5 dollar bottle of touch-up paint if your worried about a rust break-out...Ide be worried about rust in other spots..

If you took it to get professional done, they wouldnt drill into molex...

Hole in the rubber grommet then use the hole thats under the harness = dont have to drill anything...... but ide like to see pics of it as I dont even own the car yet...

doug

iTrader: (5)

gentlemen.. no need to fight to the death.. some people like cheese on their whooper some people like it plain.. what works for some.. doesn't work for others.. none more stupid than the other.. agree to disagree or find a way to write code to shock the other person when they read ur posts

RushNY

I realize this thread is old but I just wanted to post that I just used the drill and ziptie feed method and it worked like a charm. Anyone hesitant to do this should just go ahead and do it. It wasn't hard to do at all, just time consuming. This is what I did:

Door panels were simple, and the grommets were too. Like stated before in this thread:
Pop the clip on the car side grommet with the push tab open half way, pull it out then open the other tab to pull the plastic housing off (may stick a little).

Drilling the molex connectors was the easiest part, just pinch and twist out the center of a couple empty slots with some needle nose pliers (or more if you're running thicker gauge) to give the drill bit a guide and you're ready to go (same method works on both sides).

Taping a long zip tie with the end cut off was super simple for feeding, I just disconnected both sides of the grommet so I could hold the hose in place vertically and just fed right up.

Lastly feed the wire into the car side then route it through the carside molex. After that all you have to do is pull the connectors together using with wire and plug it back in (re-attach car side connector first obviously).

Xrabbix

worked like a charm. First side took a couple hours, drivers side took 5 minutes.

Only about a pint or two of blood loss too

zakmartin

I know it's an ancient thread, but I used a chopstick and some electrical tape to feed my wire through the wire boot. I bi-wired my door speakers as well and ended up lubing them with some silicone spray to get them up that tight hole.