AVIC-D3 Install Guide
06-10-2007, 01:57 AM
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AVIC-D3 Install Guide
See attached file for images
Hi there, i am writing this tutorial on installing a AVIC-D3 into an 07’ Nissan 350Z. There are others out there but I would like to fill a couple of holes. A good portion of this tutorial came from the 350Z tech wiki head unit installation. I'm being blocking from making a link to it so google for it. Thank you to who ever made that tutorial. Also a couple other pictures were taken else where but I dont recall where. If you would like credit, please please PM me and I will be happy to give you credit. Also, this install would have not been possible without the help of psibrick.
you can purchase the dash kit at metraonline.com or crutchfield.com . metra kits come with harness and single and double din mounts so you should be good.
Note: This was installed on a Base unit. Not a Bose unit. User elnonio pointed out there is a hiss when touching the screen (during the feedback sound). With the Bose amp, you're supposed to use the RCAs, not the other line outputs.
1. Disconnect your battery. Negative terminal only.
2. Harness
you need to connect a harness to the cables that came with the head unit so its an easily connects to your car. I would recommend the Metra 70-7550 Harness. It worked perfectly. I would not recommend the Metra Easy Harness (PR-0180 and 80-7550) setup. You can’t do the bypass and it doesnt have the VSS wire.
Easy Harness
Standard Harness
These are my connections. Its not shown in the picture but you do need to connect the Power Antenna (blue) to the Antenna Control cable even tho we have fixed antennas. You will also eventually connect the Car Speed Signal Input (pink) to the VSS cable. And you will also need to ground the ebrake cable as well.
Removal of Dash
Grab lower console panel ring around the shift boot and gently pull up from the rear ( it will pop loose). The upper portion is just hooked underneath the upper section of the console. You do not have to completely remove this piece, you can simply slide the lower console to the side to get it out of the way. This saves you from removing the shift ****. Remove 2 Phillips screws at outer lower edges below the radio. (set these aside in a container for later use during re-installation). You will have to disconnect the harness connected to the Hazards button and AC controls to be able to turn it. Also i would recommend placing a towel on the center console behind the shifter so you dont scar it.
Open the center console Navigation door and remove the lower mat covering. This will expose a few screws. Extract these 2 Phillips screws from the bezel and save them for later. Remove the bezel (it hooks underneath the front portion of the console.) Removing the bezel will expose 2 more Phillips screws deep under the pocket. Remove these screws with a long Phillips screwdriver. A magnetic screw driver will help you from losing the screws.
There are 4 Phillips screws exposed under the AC control unit. Find these screws, removing and saving them for later. Remove AC control unit and unplug the three plastic connectors on rear side of control unit. Depress the release button on each of the connectors to disconnect them. Now we are ready to remove the console. Gently grasp the lower edge below the radio and pull slowly, releasing the fasteners of the console (the fasteners are the pop-type). Only loosen the lower portion at this time or you may crack the console.
Now, while still supporting the console from the bottom, grab the upper edge of the console near the front windshield and pull towards you. Grab the center, that is where the clip is underneath. This will release the remaining fasteners at the top edge. At the upper edge you will find the connector for the center gauges. Disconnect this plug. There is a small button that you must push on the plug in order to remove it. A small screwdriver or pick tool helps with this. Be gentle and do not force anything. Pull the complete console up and out enough to expose the backside. Here you can see the radio and all its connections.
Remove all connections to the radio. There is 1 Antenna plug which pulls right out and several plastic connectors which have the now common locking button on them. A small screw driver or pick tool will help with the connector lock buttons. Set the entire console assembly aside on a soft surface ( passenger seat will do for now). Plug the new wiring harness from STEP 1 into the car side. There is two plugs and they are of different sizes, so they will only go in one way.
You will not need this connection anymore.
Back working with the console, turn it on its face. Make sure you use a soft surface to avoid scratches or damages to it. Remove 4 screws from the back holding the radio in place. For this application, I used the factory head unit mounting brackets. Remove the two side brackets from the factory radio and transfer them over to the new head unit.. I used the Metra 99-7602 Dash kit. There is also a 95-7602 but metra told me it doesnt exist. the 99-7602 does include the double din trim plate.
You will have to modify the bracket by widening the holes with a steel drill bit. you will see one of the holes don’t line up as well. but you will have to also widen the other holes so you can move the head unit around. I ended up widening all 4 holes with a 1/2 steel drill bit so that i had total freedom to get that perfect OEM fit. I would drill a second hole next to the first hole and then merge them to make a larger hole. you can also use the side of the drill bit to scrape away at the insides of the hole. Be sure to buy some larger washers but make sure the original bolt doesn't slip thru the larger washer. if that happens then buy a second washer of a smaller size and stack them. But a single washer is best so there isn't a chance of shifting. Mounting is very tricky and you will need that freedom to do it right. cause you will mount the dash kit onto the unit perfectly but when you mount the brackets to the car, everything shifts. your going to have to do a lot of readjusting. but as you can see from the final pic, its worth it. Drilling is not mandatory, tho. if your cool with how the head unit mounts right away, dont worry about widening the other holes. but I wasnt happy with it and its a personal choice.
After you have put the radio into its mounting kit ,place the new unit into the console and insert the 4 screws that we removed earlier. Be careful to insert the radio right side up. I would mount the unit with the trim plate back onto the console and then place it back into the dash just to check the fit cause i did notice it would push out a little once in so check that
Before you connect the power harness to the head unit and place the console back in you will need to modify the RCA Harness that came with the head unit if you want to complete the bypass. You will need to remove the mute wire (yellow and black) and insert it into the hole above it. dont just pull it out. use a small screw driver to lift the plastic pin holding it it.be sure to rotate the wire 180 degrees. the flat side to be facing the top now.
Next you’ll have to to splice in the pink vehicle speed control wire from the power harness into the VSS wire. The VSS wire is located in the middle harness that connected to the white AC control box. its the white wire in the middle.
Now your ready to connect the power and rca harness to the head unit. be sure to separate your 3 grounds. you will mount them to the screws that you took out earlier. put the ebrake and mute wire to Ground #1 and put the head units main ground to Ground #2
I've tried it. It doesn't work.
I would mount the unit with the trim plate back onto the console and then place it back into the dash just to check the fit cause i did notice it would push out a little once in so check that.
Hi there, i am writing this tutorial on installing a AVIC-D3 into an 07’ Nissan 350Z. There are others out there but I would like to fill a couple of holes. A good portion of this tutorial came from the 350Z tech wiki head unit installation. I'm being blocking from making a link to it so google for it. Thank you to who ever made that tutorial. Also a couple other pictures were taken else where but I dont recall where. If you would like credit, please please PM me and I will be happy to give you credit. Also, this install would have not been possible without the help of psibrick.
you can purchase the dash kit at metraonline.com or crutchfield.com . metra kits come with harness and single and double din mounts so you should be good.
Note: This was installed on a Base unit. Not a Bose unit. User elnonio pointed out there is a hiss when touching the screen (during the feedback sound). With the Bose amp, you're supposed to use the RCAs, not the other line outputs.
1. Disconnect your battery. Negative terminal only.
2. Harness
you need to connect a harness to the cables that came with the head unit so its an easily connects to your car. I would recommend the Metra 70-7550 Harness. It worked perfectly. I would not recommend the Metra Easy Harness (PR-0180 and 80-7550) setup. You can’t do the bypass and it doesnt have the VSS wire.
Easy Harness
Standard Harness
These are my connections. Its not shown in the picture but you do need to connect the Power Antenna (blue) to the Antenna Control cable even tho we have fixed antennas. You will also eventually connect the Car Speed Signal Input (pink) to the VSS cable. And you will also need to ground the ebrake cable as well.
Removal of Dash
Grab lower console panel ring around the shift boot and gently pull up from the rear ( it will pop loose). The upper portion is just hooked underneath the upper section of the console. You do not have to completely remove this piece, you can simply slide the lower console to the side to get it out of the way. This saves you from removing the shift ****. Remove 2 Phillips screws at outer lower edges below the radio. (set these aside in a container for later use during re-installation). You will have to disconnect the harness connected to the Hazards button and AC controls to be able to turn it. Also i would recommend placing a towel on the center console behind the shifter so you dont scar it.
Open the center console Navigation door and remove the lower mat covering. This will expose a few screws. Extract these 2 Phillips screws from the bezel and save them for later. Remove the bezel (it hooks underneath the front portion of the console.) Removing the bezel will expose 2 more Phillips screws deep under the pocket. Remove these screws with a long Phillips screwdriver. A magnetic screw driver will help you from losing the screws.
There are 4 Phillips screws exposed under the AC control unit. Find these screws, removing and saving them for later. Remove AC control unit and unplug the three plastic connectors on rear side of control unit. Depress the release button on each of the connectors to disconnect them. Now we are ready to remove the console. Gently grasp the lower edge below the radio and pull slowly, releasing the fasteners of the console (the fasteners are the pop-type). Only loosen the lower portion at this time or you may crack the console.
Now, while still supporting the console from the bottom, grab the upper edge of the console near the front windshield and pull towards you. Grab the center, that is where the clip is underneath. This will release the remaining fasteners at the top edge. At the upper edge you will find the connector for the center gauges. Disconnect this plug. There is a small button that you must push on the plug in order to remove it. A small screwdriver or pick tool helps with this. Be gentle and do not force anything. Pull the complete console up and out enough to expose the backside. Here you can see the radio and all its connections.
Remove all connections to the radio. There is 1 Antenna plug which pulls right out and several plastic connectors which have the now common locking button on them. A small screw driver or pick tool will help with the connector lock buttons. Set the entire console assembly aside on a soft surface ( passenger seat will do for now). Plug the new wiring harness from STEP 1 into the car side. There is two plugs and they are of different sizes, so they will only go in one way.
You will not need this connection anymore.
Back working with the console, turn it on its face. Make sure you use a soft surface to avoid scratches or damages to it. Remove 4 screws from the back holding the radio in place. For this application, I used the factory head unit mounting brackets. Remove the two side brackets from the factory radio and transfer them over to the new head unit.. I used the Metra 99-7602 Dash kit. There is also a 95-7602 but metra told me it doesnt exist. the 99-7602 does include the double din trim plate.
You will have to modify the bracket by widening the holes with a steel drill bit. you will see one of the holes don’t line up as well. but you will have to also widen the other holes so you can move the head unit around. I ended up widening all 4 holes with a 1/2 steel drill bit so that i had total freedom to get that perfect OEM fit. I would drill a second hole next to the first hole and then merge them to make a larger hole. you can also use the side of the drill bit to scrape away at the insides of the hole. Be sure to buy some larger washers but make sure the original bolt doesn't slip thru the larger washer. if that happens then buy a second washer of a smaller size and stack them. But a single washer is best so there isn't a chance of shifting. Mounting is very tricky and you will need that freedom to do it right. cause you will mount the dash kit onto the unit perfectly but when you mount the brackets to the car, everything shifts. your going to have to do a lot of readjusting. but as you can see from the final pic, its worth it. Drilling is not mandatory, tho. if your cool with how the head unit mounts right away, dont worry about widening the other holes. but I wasnt happy with it and its a personal choice.
After you have put the radio into its mounting kit ,place the new unit into the console and insert the 4 screws that we removed earlier. Be careful to insert the radio right side up. I would mount the unit with the trim plate back onto the console and then place it back into the dash just to check the fit cause i did notice it would push out a little once in so check that
Before you connect the power harness to the head unit and place the console back in you will need to modify the RCA Harness that came with the head unit if you want to complete the bypass. You will need to remove the mute wire (yellow and black) and insert it into the hole above it. dont just pull it out. use a small screw driver to lift the plastic pin holding it it.be sure to rotate the wire 180 degrees. the flat side to be facing the top now.
Next you’ll have to to splice in the pink vehicle speed control wire from the power harness into the VSS wire. The VSS wire is located in the middle harness that connected to the white AC control box. its the white wire in the middle.
Now your ready to connect the power and rca harness to the head unit. be sure to separate your 3 grounds. you will mount them to the screws that you took out earlier. put the ebrake and mute wire to Ground #1 and put the head units main ground to Ground #2
I've tried it. It doesn't work.
I would mount the unit with the trim plate back onto the console and then place it back into the dash just to check the fit cause i did notice it would push out a little once in so check that.
Last edited by orbitalpunk; 07-20-2013 at 08:23 PM.
06-10-2007, 01:59 AM
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Dont forget your GPS wire and ipod connector if you have one. if you are using the ipod connector, be sure to drill your hole in the back before you start mounting the console. I placed the gps antenna on the dash coming out of the top of the console. if you have problems fitting the dash perfectly back in at the top due to the cable, instead of push and pushing the console, give a couple karate chops at the very top. yes, i said karate chop. no, i do not know karate, but its my karate chop and it worked well cause if you keep pushing the entire console you may crack it. and dont push on the cubby door. it will bend at the top and not be flush anymore if your not careful. oh, and dont throw away that magnetic sticker that sticks the the gps antenna. it will improve your signal 100%
Install the AC control unit, plugging in the plastic connectors on the back. They are different sizes, so it is impossible to install wrong. Push it back into place and align the screw holes. Reinstall the 4 screws below the control unit. Back to the Navigation pocket, Reinstall the 2 screws below the pocket. Again, a magnetic screw driver helps a lot in this step. If you drop the screw you may never find it.
Replace the bezel into the Navigation pocket, taking note of the hooks on the front edge. Insert the 2 small Phillips screws into the bezel and replace the lower pocket mat. Install 2 final screws below the radio/console assembly. Reinstall the lower half of center console. Remember to put the top in first which hooks underneath the upper portion, then snap down the ring around the shifter.
Final:
YOUTUBE
Install the AC control unit, plugging in the plastic connectors on the back. They are different sizes, so it is impossible to install wrong. Push it back into place and align the screw holes. Reinstall the 4 screws below the control unit. Back to the Navigation pocket, Reinstall the 2 screws below the pocket. Again, a magnetic screw driver helps a lot in this step. If you drop the screw you may never find it.
Replace the bezel into the Navigation pocket, taking note of the hooks on the front edge. Insert the 2 small Phillips screws into the bezel and replace the lower pocket mat. Install 2 final screws below the radio/console assembly. Reinstall the lower half of center console. Remember to put the top in first which hooks underneath the upper portion, then snap down the ring around the shifter.
Final:
YOUTUBE
Last edited by orbitalpunk; 06-10-2007 at 02:02 AM.
06-12-2007, 01:15 AM
#6
I'm trying to install mine right now, but I can't seem to get power. I do have external amps that I am trying to connect, so which wire should I be connecting the remote-turn on too? I've tried a couple, but I have yet to get any power to ANYTHING. I switched the grounds to a couple different spots, but still no dice.
06-12-2007, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Elohite
Awesome write up man
Tnk210, i dont know anything beyond what i did in my guide. you might wanna look up psibrick. he knows a lot. and i think has a shop in san jose. he was very knowledgeable and at least with me, very honest. he gave me a trim plate free when i wasnt sure if what i had was correct.
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06-12-2007, 12:18 PM
#10
Originally Posted by tnk210
I'm trying to install mine right now, but I can't seem to get power. I do have external amps that I am trying to connect, so which wire should I be connecting the remote-turn on too? I've tried a couple, but I have yet to get any power to ANYTHING. I switched the grounds to a couple different spots, but still no dice.
As for the groundings the black wire on the harness works just fine for all the headunit groundings. If you have an external amp however, that should be grounded to the chassis.
Good guide though I'm sure it will help a lot of people out! I was too lazy to take pictures of my install... it was a ***** to tuck in all those wires.
Last edited by Voboy; 06-12-2007 at 12:21 PM.
06-13-2007, 02:00 AM
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Thanks Lawy'dU.
Hey behjjeh, i used a Canon HV20. but there are dropped frames for some reason. either my tape was dirty or its a problem with final cut 6 cause it was my first time using it after upgrading from final cut 5.
Originally Posted by behjjeh
i am just wondering ... what kinda camcorder did you use for ur youtube?
06-15-2007, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by orbitalpunk
I would recommend the Metra 70-7550 Harness. It worked perfectly. I would not recommend the Metra Easy Harness (PR-0180 and 80-7550) setup. You can’t do the bypass and it doesnt have the VSS wire.
06-15-2007, 10:53 PM
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I couldn't use the easy harness cause there isnt a VSS wire (pink) present and i wanted to hook up VSS (vehicle speed sensor) . Also from what i saw, there insn't a ebrake run off wire to ground for the bypass. there might have been one bundled in the harness, but didnt wanna take the chance. just wanted to do it the sure way.
06-16-2007, 06:18 PM
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thanks man. about 3 days. it was my absolute first stereo install so i wanted to make sure i got everything right.
day one was removing the console and stock stereo. of course now i can do it in minutes.
day 2 was soldering most of the harness, mounting the pioneer to the console and drilling my brackets. that took a while. a lot of adjusting, redrilling, readjusting. but its perfect every time i look at it so it was worth it.
day 3 solder 2 more wires and putting everything back together.
just take your time. learn a lot. save your money.
and if you ever install something, write a guide. noob style. i hate it when people leave out the details. there so important.
day one was removing the console and stock stereo. of course now i can do it in minutes.
day 2 was soldering most of the harness, mounting the pioneer to the console and drilling my brackets. that took a while. a lot of adjusting, redrilling, readjusting. but its perfect every time i look at it so it was worth it.
day 3 solder 2 more wires and putting everything back together.
just take your time. learn a lot. save your money.
and if you ever install something, write a guide. noob style. i hate it when people leave out the details. there so important.
07-10-2007, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by myspivey
what faceplate mounting bracket did you use?