TurboTrey

A buddy of mine at work has offered me his new PPI PC 1400.2 amp for $20. It hasn't been used and still wrapped in the plastic. He bought it in 2001 but never got around to using it. Is this thing any good? I currently have a MTX Blue Thunder Pro 75X2 amp with one Infinity 10" Reference.

Specs: 200 WRMS x 1 @ 4ohms and 400 WRMS x 1 @ 2ohms

Should I buy this and swap it out? My MTX amp is from 1999.

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

For $20, it's a great buy. It'll probably be a bit more efficient that your older MTX. What are the ratings on the MTX that you are thinking of replacing? If you will not be increasing RMS power then stick with the MTX.

TurboTrey

MTX Amp:
RMS Power measured at 12.5 Volts DC:
37.5 watts x 2 into a 4 ohm load with less than 0.05% THD+N
75 watts x 2 into a 2 ohm load with less than 0.1% THD+N
150 watts bridged into a 4 ohm load with less than 0.1% THD+N

Dynamic Power (IHF-202 standard) measured at 14.4 Volts DC:
90 watts x 2 into a 4 ohm load
165 watts x 2 into a 2 ohm load
325 watts bridged into a 4 ohm load

The sub is 4 ohms so I am running 150 rms now and the PPI is 200 rms.

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

Well, when the car is running you are pushing 325 to the sub now....stick with the MTX. It's more power to your sub. That is my opinion.

TurboTrey

How do I find out the max on the PPI amp? All it says is the RMS in the manual.

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

MAX ratings are useless......they are marketing gimmicks. RMS ratings are what you want to base your choices on.

TurboTrey

I guess I don't understand the ratings on the amps. I know that the RMS is the true rating. But does the PPI amp RMS not different at 12.5 and 14.4

350zspl

iTrader: (3)

buy it for $ 20

i will send you $50 shipped and you can make a fast $20

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

OK, that's cool. It definitely can get confusing.......

Amps have 2 rating systems: Max and RMS
Max is the peak output the amp could achieve in a single burts under perfect conditions with the perfect high-level signal. I said this was a marketing gimmick because a manufacturer can make a 100x2 rms amp put out 1000 watt burst and thereby label the amp "1000 watt amp", but you will never see it put out 1000 watts.

RMS is "root mean square", which is a mathematical formula to figure out the continuous output of typical program data. This is real life output that YOU will see in YOUR car.

Now an amp puts out different power depending on the voltage it is fed from the power source (i.e. car's electrical system). 12 volts is what the battery puts out when the car is not running, 14.4 volts is what a healthy charging system puts out when the car is running. The amp will put out more power at 14.4 than it will at 12 volts. Some manufacturers provide both specs and some don't. You can typically say that an amp will put out about 20% more at 14.4 than it will at 12. so if they give you 1 spec, you can figure out the other. If it doesn't say, you can almost assume the rating is at 14.4.

If you really want to read some technical stuff:
http://www.bcae1.com/

TurboTrey

So why do you say use the MTX amp if the RMS is 150 while the PPI is RMS 200?

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

Per your post above, the MTX throws out 325 watts rms at 14.4 volts. The PPI is 200 at 14.4 volts (I just happen to know that the new PPI is rated at 14.4).

But if you can buy the PPI for $20, I would buy it and resell on ebay for a profit.

TurboTrey

How much is this worth you think?

Anu2g

iTrader: (9)

PPI PC series amps are great. That was one series before the PCX series (which is what I have). The PCX were the last generation of good amps from PPI...after that all the amplifiers by DEI and their subsidiaries seemed to converge.

I think the PC series amps were the last series of amps before DEI bought out PPI...when PPI was the sht. Either way..I would def say the PPI should be better than the MTX. PPIs are rated a lot more conservatively.

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

I agree with all you say, however the MTX amps were bulletproof in that time as well. The MTX is rated higher than the PPI and for subwoofer duties, I would use the MTX. if we were to talk front stage, I would recommend the pure SQ of the PPI.

Anu2g

iTrader: (9)

yea I think I agree with you too...PPI is more of an sq company..I still remember how clear the PPI Art series amps sounded on a good set of MB Quarts...if only they made them like they used to

Anu2g

iTrader: (9)

he should def buy the amp for $20...that is a no brainer

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

Agreed on both counts!!

OP - Buy the amp for $20, I saw an offer above where you could make a profit already!!!

Anu2g

iTrader: (9)

thread jack...u mind if i ask what setup you're running?

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

Not at all......Hopefully TurboTrey doesn't mind

CURRENT SETUP:
Eclipse CD5100 head
Eclipse XA2000 ICEpower class D 100x2 into 4 Ohms
Eclipse XA1000 class D 320x1 into 4 Ohms
Diamond Audio D661 silk tweets in Zenclosures door pods
Diamond Audio D610 dual 2 Ohm v/c sub in XtremeKustoms understrut box

FUTURE UPGRADES PLANNED:
Eclipse XA1000 soon to be changed to ZED Minilith = 600x1 into 1 Ohm

Eclipse XA2000 soon to be changed to either:
- ZED The Deuce = 200x2 into 4 Ohms
or
- ZED Draconia = 70x4 into 4 Ohms active front stage (drivers and xover to be determined)

Anu2g

iTrader: (9)

Cool...sounds like it sounds great...I just heard door pods for the first time and they were great. I have...

Alpine IVA-W200 Deck
PPI PCX-480 (80x4 @ 4 Ohms)
PPI PCX-2200 (800x1 @ 4 Ohms (or 200x2@4, 400x2@2)
MB Quart PCE216 Components front and back
JL Stealthbox w/ 2 10w3v3s
2 Caps, bluetooth, and all that crap (the bluetooth sucks btw)

I just got the nav unit in the mail from another member...i'm yet to install it.

I like how my setup sounds right now, but I bet the pods would make it sound better.