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That bose amp looks to be smaller than a 2.5 hdd. I can't even believe they get off selling the Bose systems as an "upgrade". Yeah the base equipment sucks even more, but at least its easier and cheaper to swap out IMO.
This problem has been coming up for years and years. In the past I've sent people to check for loose connections in the back on the amplifier and the speaker ... and they stopped complaining. I'm assuming they're finding the problem. The stuck relay might be the problem. I'll keep that in my bag of tricks.
That is the subwoofer amplifier. The four-channel amp is a bit bigger so I opened it up to see what was inside and found that there were no power amplifier transistors only integrated circuits. And small ones at that. A big IC amp can put out 20-40 watts. These were tiny little ones and might be good for 4 to 10 watts (may be).
Where is the subwoofer amp located and how do you get to it?
I've been looking for a "how to" to do this, but I am having no luck searching for it. Can someone point me to it or explain how to do this? Thanks.
It's located next to the subwoofer on the transmission hump side. To get there you've got to do a bunch of work to strip off that whole plastic covering - basically start at the door sill covers and work backwards!
It's located next to the subwoofer on the transmission hump side. To get there you've got to do a bunch of work to strip off that whole plastic covering - basically start at the door sill covers and work backwards!
Damn, I thought that plastic cover was just a pop out...
After listening(I make my living with my ears) the intermittent pop and subsequent dropping in my amp is because of the relay in side of the amp.If you open the amp you'll see a little white box. It is the relay. I applied a little pressure to the top and the amp started working. This was done after checking every connection in the amp. I released the pressure and the sub quit working again.Not wanting to track down a replacement relay I simply cut a piece of solid plastic the diameter of an pencil and positioned it on the lid of the amp to keep pressure on the relay. This by no means is the best way to deal with what is clearly a bad design on Nissans part but it has worked for me for over a year with no dropping out.If I ever have to open it up again I'll post pics. Pretty easy fix.
Lol can you post those pics soon? I want to fix the relay lol =)
Lol can you post those pics soon? I want to fix the relay lol =)
It's really not that hard. Once you get to the tiny amp and open it up, you'll see right away. It's enclosed in another plastic "box" that's gray, I believe. Just apply pressure on that and you're set.
Or, if you're gonna be a girl about it, I can always take mine apart and show it to you.
After listening(I make my living with my ears) the intermittent pop and subsequent dropping in my amp is because of the relay in side of the amp.If you open the amp you'll see a little white box. It is the relay. I applied a little pressure to the top and the amp started working. This was done after checking every connection in the amp. I released the pressure and the sub quit working again.Not wanting to track down a replacement relay I simply cut a piece of solid plastic the diameter of an pencil and positioned it on the lid of the amp to keep pressure on the relay. This by no means is the best way to deal with what is clearly a bad design on Nissans part but it has worked for me for over a year with no dropping out.If I ever have to open it up again I'll post pics. Pretty easy fix.
Dude, you are a savior... you figured out what two different dealerships couldn't... you are the man!
Thanks for making it a sticky it deserves it. I've been without my sub for a couple of months now and this solved the problem. It only takes about 15 to 20 minutes to cure the problem.