KManZ

iTrader: (8)

Hey all,

I finally purchased a mono-sub amp to power my 10" sub, and as such have needed to add a distribution block into the system. My main 4 gauge power wire, fused from the battery w/ a 120 amp fuse, runs into the block, and is split up into 2-8 gauge power wires going to each amp. Since I am fused at the battery, do I need to fuse these power lines after the distro block? If so, what size fuses do i need in my block?

My 2 amps are:

- Alpine PDX 4.150 (150 watts powering my components)
- Alpine PDX 1.600 (600 watts powering my sub)

That makes a grand total of 750 watts. My second question is: is my 4 gauge power wire enough to handle these two amps?

Thanks fellas

burner

iTrader: (5)

4ga should be plenty large enough for your system. I would recommend putting a second fuse for each amp at the distribution block. The smaller amp use a 35-40A fuse and your sub amp use a 75A or so. Main fuse should be 100A. The second fuse protects your amps from a power spike that doesn't blow the main fuse but has the power to blow your amps. Good luck!

KManZ

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for your response, very much appreciated. I have a fused block, and there has been a lot of variance in the answers on which fuse I should use.

ninor

iTrader: (5)

What 10" sub, hu, and comps are you getting? I am getting the same amps as you, alpine 9887, dls iridium 10" sub and focal 165 k2p up front

As far as the wiring goes, I am running fuses from distro to amps as well and I'm using 4ga cable from battery to distro block and in between a mini anl fuse holder with 150a fuse.

by the way... you are giving your comps only 150 watts? Are you getting rear speakers? If not, you might want to get PDX 2.150 amp... no need for 4.150 if you are only using 2 channels.

burner

iTrader: (5)

150A fuse is way too much. If a spike goes through your system that is 100A strong, your amps are fried (assuming you don't have each amp fused) and the fuse is intact and you will be wondering what happened to your amps. Call a car audio shop and ask them, they will tell you the same thing. Go with the 100A. If it blows, you have a problem in your wiring. Just my $.02 though!

ninor

iTrader: (5)

Thank you for your reply! Do you know how many amps should be used with each fuse? I will be sending 300 watts to comps and 600 to the sub. Each amp's power cable will be fused between power distro and the amp. Also, of course my amp will be fused as well. I am visiting a local car audio place this weekend so I can also ask them for more help on this.

KManZ

iTrader: (8)

I originally was just running the PDX 4.150, using Ch. 1&2 for my components and bridging 3&4 for 300 to the sub (500w RMS Diamond Audio 10"). But I was underpowering the sub, so I decided to upgrade . As for the comps (Polk SR6500's), they are rated at 125w RMS, so 150 is more than sufficient.

Alpine Amps are fused themselves. The PDX 4.150 has 2-30a fuses, and the 1.600 has 4-20a fuses! So, I figured I would run a mini-anl 80 and 60 amp fuse on their respective power wires, as they say that you should fuse to protect the wire from over heating and starting on fire.

ninor

iTrader: (5)

Yea, it could never hurt to install more fuses!

Ehh, I ran Focal Utopia 165W before which were rated 100wrms and I was giving them 100wrms and I def. underpowered them. Now I'm getting Focal 165 K2P which are I believe also rated 100wrms but I know 2-3 guys from caraudio.com forums that are giving them 300wrms per side passive (300wrms x 2 bridged in PDX 4.150)

v-rath

I was reading this thread http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=188243.30 and it referenced this chart from crutchfield http://www.crutchfield.com/S-v9TnrIf...uge_chart.html so I am looking at 800 total watts, x2 1600 / 13.5 = 116a.

Now I'm thinking I need to return the amp install kit I bought from amazon, which only includes a 60a fuse..... This kit.

http://www.amazon.com/PK4Z-Gauge-Pow...d_bxgy_e_img_c

Maybe I should return it for this one.

http://www.amazon.com/CK4Z-Gauge-Com...3657570&sr=1-2

It just pisses me off that it clearly states 1600 watts rated power on the front of the freaking box. Or maybe I'm from arkansas and can't do basic math. Someone who didn't go to public school gimme a hand over here.



I am trying to decide on power regulation. I am looking to install 500/1v2 and a 300/2v2 JL amps.

I understand that the power draw of these will not be huge, but I am thinking about installing the NRG Voltage stabilizer and earth grounding kit instead of a capacitor for only the audio system. Are these gimmicks or real?

http://www.amazon.com/NRG-Innovation...xgy_auto_img_a

http://www.amazon.com/NRG-Grounding-...xgy_auto_img_b

After that, I'll put a simple power distro box with no fuses as I have a 60a hooked at the power cable to the amps from the battery.

http://www.amazon.com/Raptor-GDB1-Ga...=cm_cr_pr_pb_t

v-rath

That calculator is correct, I just have to remember that I am taking total wattage, and multiplying by 2 then dividing by voltage. You know, i=w/v. But, I am going to buy a 100a agu fuse set from amazon, as my base rms wattage is 800 and 800x13.8= 57a. That's too close to the 60a value of my fuse for comfort.

Still I think it's a bunch of bull that they would put a 60a fuse in a kit marked 1600w. Unless they're using a voltage for their watt equation that is not the standard wattage from a car battery, in which case they are just lying.