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Old 09-04-2011, 02:07 AM
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ZcocacolaZ
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Default Immobilizer question

Hello all,

i have been luring this forum for over 4 years and this is my first post. I need help with the immobilizer system.

here is what happened. I am helping a friend installing the st800 system on the car. I tried to push start and the car cranked but wont start. we tried many times like over 10 times. I thought it was th bypass so i tried with the other bypass and everything. Therefore i thought the transponder chip was bad. we used another key and tried it again and it doesnot work.

((((we disconnected the battery before the installation, before any cutting of the wires. after we connected everything we plugged the negative terminal back.)))

I took the st800 system out and return everything to the original before i even install the system. it wont start either. it cranked but wont start. finally we notice the security light.

when i hit the unlock button on the remote key fob it unlocked the door but the security light stayed ON. When i got in the car and tried to start the car with the key, i notice the security light begin to flash. I didnt even start the car yet. as soon as the key is in the ignition the security light flashed. I knew right away that the immobilizer had stopped the car from being start.

i tried reset it the security feature by inserting the key and turn it to ON for 5 seconds and turn it to OFF for 5 seconds. 3 times total to reset it. It didnt work. The guys on altima said it worked for him everytime.

anyone know how to solve this system. I just got back from giving him a ride back to his house and his car is sitting at my house. He lives 90 miles away from me. Previously i thought it was the transponder chip broken due to the fact that the pried it out of the plastic house to put it in the bypass. My buddy used my car to drive home and get his 2 other keys and came back. it didnt work. And i just gave him a ride home.

anyone know anything please advice. I think this happened to my car once or twice and i was able to start the car after awhile but his wont start at all. I dont want to take it to the dealer because we have to get it tow. and i dont want him to spend money on it. he told me he is broke. I didnt charge him any money for the installation. therefore i dont want to put money out of my pocket to tow it to the dealer and let them read reprogram the key or whatever they called it. I meant i am doing him a favor so ... i wont pay for the dealer cost. if it had to i probably help him with dealer cost but that is the last resort as i am now broke too.

anyone know anything please help. thank you
Old 09-04-2011, 02:31 PM
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OkashiZ
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I'd recommend contacting the individual that made the st800, he installed his onto his own 350z and probably ran into issues, or at least found a way to solve potential problems. I have spoken to him once before and he is a guy that will take his time to help you. Good luck.
Old 09-04-2011, 07:40 PM
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350zion
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Wen the immobilizer kicks in the security light on the dash will stay lit solid while the key is in the ignition n turned to acc or while cranking.. It shuts down the ignition i.e. no spark... Seen this plenty of times... If the key is still matched the light will go out as soon as u turn the key... If u removed the Ecu for any reason and haven't bolted it back in its location the car wont start... The Ecu needs to be grounded... Jus in case u did take it out!

Are the fans running on high speed wen u turn the ignition? Thats also a sign of power loss to the ecu
Old 09-04-2011, 08:19 PM
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ZcocacolaZ
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Originally Posted by 350zion
Wen the immobilizer kicks in the security light on the dash will stay lit solid while the key is in the ignition n turned to acc or while cranking.. It shuts down the ignition i.e. no spark... Seen this plenty of times... If the key is still matched the light will go out as soon as u turn the key... If u removed the Ecu for any reason and haven't bolted it back in its location the car wont start... The Ecu needs to be grounded... Jus in case u did take it out!

Are the fans running on high speed wen u turn the ignition? Thats also a sign of power loss to the ecu

i didnt remove the ecu. i just remove the connector on bcm at the driver kick pannel. i didnt touch the ecu because i was afraid of messing with it.

the fans are not runnning because i i turn the air conditioner off.
Old 09-05-2011, 06:08 AM
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Not the fans in the car the cooling fans at the radiator....

Jus some quick thoughts as to Wat I've run into...
See Wat the security light is doing wen the key is in the ignition n turned to acc
. Jus before u crank the car the light should be out. If it is its not the immobilizer....
Old 09-05-2011, 06:31 AM
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While the ST-800 system might be something that is "cool" to have, I think there are more potential problems than the system is worth. This is a perfect example of doing a modification with questionable value for the coolness aspect. I think you may have to go to the dealer to have the car programmed. It is possible a locksmith might be able to help and would probably be a little cheaper than the dealer.
Old 09-05-2011, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by KornerCarver
While the ST-800 system might be something that is "cool" to have, I think there are more potential problems than the system is worth. This is a perfect example of doing a modification with questionable value for the coolness aspect. I think you may have to go to the dealer to have the car programmed. It is possible a locksmith might be able to help and would probably be a little cheaper than the dealer.
i installed 5 this system on 5 cars already. 4 z and 1 g and it work fine!!! only this car gave me a problem.

I thought the alarmed in the car gave me a problem. i disconnected the power to that alarm and it is still not work.
Old 09-05-2011, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 350zion
Not the fans in the car the cooling fans at the radiator....

Jus some quick thoughts as to Wat I've run into...
See Wat the security light is doing wen the key is in the ignition n turned to acc
. Jus before u crank the car the light should be out. If it is its not the immobilizer....

before i crank he like is flashing and flashing and flashing. the radiator fans are not running.
Old 09-05-2011, 02:49 PM
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my z has enter lock mode.


i used a scanner to scan it and it read p1610.

the procedure is follow:

turn key to on wait 5 seconds
turn key to off wait 5 seconds

do this three time.

start the car.


i tried... did not work? the hell??
Old 09-05-2011, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ZcocacolaZ
before i crank he like is flashing and flashing and flashing. the radiator fans are not running.
Wat year is the car?

If u turn the ignition to the ACC position but dont crank it the light should go out completely. Even before u crank it... The engine will always crank wen the immobilizer kicks in, it jus wont start... Kills power to the coil packs which kills spark..U really have to look at the LED light to tell wats going on...

Also I think u said u removed the BCM, well did u put it back. Installeed correctly? It should be bolted back in or u may have a grounding issue. Also double check all the wires that u spliced if any. Check the coil packs, by pulling one out and checking for spark. If theres no spark then something is wrong with the ECU.. Either not having a good ground or a cut or lose wire. Jus go over everything again.

As for the immobilizer as far as Ive seen the only thing that lets u kno it has engaged is really the led light.... If at any time its solid then u got problems my friend...

Ray
Old 09-05-2011, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 350zion
Wat year is the car?

If u turn the ignition to the ACC position but dont crank it the light should go out completely. Even before u crank it... The engine will always crank wen the immobilizer kicks in, it jus wont start... Kills power to the coil packs which kills spark..U really have to look at the LED light to tell wats going on...

Also I think u said u removed the BCM, well did u put it back. Installeed correctly? It should be bolted back in or u may have a grounding issue. Also double check all the wires that u spliced if any. Check the coil packs, by pulling one out and checking for spark. If theres no spark then something is wrong with the ECU.. Either not having a good ground or a cut or lose wire. Jus go over everything again.

As for the immobilizer as far as Ive seen the only thing that lets u kno it has engaged is really the led light.... If at any time its solid then u got problems my friend...

Ray
i am going to take it to a dealer tomorrow man..
Old 09-06-2011, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by ZcocacolaZ
i am going to take it to a dealer tomorrow man..
Interested in the outcome...

I haven't driven my Z in a year, and that was just 1 time to move it around in my garage when cleaning, so I haven't really driven it in 2 years. I really have no specific reason as to why this is, I just have other cars and my priorities have and had been on the house I had just purchased and other cars. I'm now trying to get it back on the road.

The battery has been dead for a year. I just put a new one in and put 4 gallons of fresh 91 fuel in it and by my testing thus far it looks like NATS has me in lock mode. I get the cranking but it sounds like I'm not getting any fuel. I tried the reset procedure and it didn't work for me either. I'm wondering if because the battery was dead for such an extended period of time that the NATS system is now out of sync.

I don't have a scan tool so I can only verify doing a few manual checks and based on my symptoms. When I turn the key the security light blinks. I'm dreading having to take it to the dealer, and also wondering how much this is going to cost me.
Old 09-06-2011, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Done Deal DR
Interested in the outcome...

I haven't driven my Z in a year, and that was just 1 time to move it around in my garage when cleaning, so I haven't really driven it in 2 years. I really have no specific reason as to why this is, I just have other cars and my priorities have and had been on the house I had just purchased and other cars. I'm now trying to get it back on the road.

The battery has been dead for a year. I just put a new one in and put 4 gallons of fresh 91 fuel in it and by my testing thus far it looks like NATS has me in lock mode. I get the cranking but it sounds like I'm not getting any fuel. I tried the reset procedure and it didn't work for me either. I'm wondering if because the battery was dead for such an extended period of time that the NATS system is now out of sync.



I don't have a scan tool so I can only verify doing a few manual checks and based on my symptoms. When I turn the key the security light blinks. I'm dreading having to take it to the dealer, and also wondering how much this is going to cost me.
take everything u add to your car that is not nissan factory. They make me pay for the labor to take everything in my car out. they want to take the wiring for my police radar out. they want my aftermaket radio out, they want my fog light out.... they want everything. they want to charge 4 hours of labor. which is 400 dollars... plus 59 dollars diagnosis...
Old 09-06-2011, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ZcocacolaZ
take everything u add to your car that is not nissan factory. They make me pay for the labor to take everything in my car out. they want to take the wiring for my police radar out. they want my aftermaket radio out, they want my fog light out.... they want everything. they want to charge 4 hours of labor. which is 400 dollars... plus 59 dollars diagnosis...
The only thing I have in my car is an aftermarket CD player and the car is no longer under warranty. That CD player has been in the car since '07 so if they try to get me crap about that I won't have any of it. I'm hoping I can get out for whatever they rape you on for the diagnosis and NATS Consult setup.
Old 09-06-2011, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Done Deal DR
The only thing I have in my car is an aftermarket CD player and the car is no longer under warranty. That CD player has been in the car since '07 so if they try to get me crap about that I won't have any of it. I'm hoping I can get out for whatever they rape you on for the diagnosis and NATS Consult setup.


I got ****ed man!!!! dealer tried to rape us on the alarm that was installed by dealer. They said the alarmed installed cause the problem. The lock mode p1610 cannot be deleted because of the alarm. they want to charge us 4 hours of labor to take the alarm off. The car was bought brand new at the dealer and the alarm was installed by the dealer too. This dealer tried to rape us by saying it is an after market alarm installed by dealer. They said sometime it cause problem. Man this suck. I talked to a technician and he, RJ, is very nice and tried to help us. He did everything he could. I am going back their tomorrow to get it fix again. the car is at the dealer right now. Tomorrow we gonna check for transponder receiver or antenna. later we will have to test the BCM. This is really really really suck!!!
Old 09-29-2011, 01:18 PM
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oops.. i forgot to update this

basically there was a short in BCM because aftermarket alarm interfered with st800. BCM didnt send signal to immobilizer receiver.


if this happened to any one. all you have to do is take everything off and search for short wires that you tap into.

fix the issue without dealer 100 dollars per hour for labor!!
Old 02-28-2016, 04:04 PM
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Default Having same promblem with my z HELP!!

Same promblem with my z crank but no start, alarm light stay solid and when turn key to start radiator fans go full speed
Old 02-28-2016, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Nolan23
Same promblem with my z crank but no start, alarm light stay solid and when turn key to start radiator fans go full speed
did you disconnect the amplifier box that connects to the ac controls?

ECU plugged in and able to be seen by obd2 reader?
possible dead ecu
Old 02-28-2016, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Cux350z
did you disconnect the amplifier box that connects to the ac controls?

ECU plugged in and able to be seen by obd2 reader?
possible dead ecu
I have no clue where that is located can u tell me?
Old 11-24-2020, 08:36 AM
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IMPORTANT - I wanted to add this to this great thread...

My Z was stolen and I got it back. There was little damage but the theives cut a key (which I also got back).
When I tried to use MY OLD KEYS the Immobilizer refused me. ONLY When I tried the "new" key which was apparently cut
from the VIN (so they could just take the car), would my car actually start.

This means that THE KEY, even though it works, can cause the Immobilizer System to Kick in.

There is some Crazy Ju Ju going on with this system!


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