Z_enthusiast

iTrader: (16)

Ok, i installed 2 Alpine type r 10s under the strut bar along with 2 monoblock 650w alpine amps. the power and remote are run off a splitter supplying power to the two amps. it worked great for about a month then i noticed on a long ride that my subs werent hitting but the amps were lit up. i turn car off/on (to restart amps) and i can hear them hitting a lil (very clear bass) then i turn up the volume a click by click then they cut out... i can keep doing this and the problem reoccurs... NOW they dont come on at ALL. Both amps took a crap or what?

Thanks

Z1NONLY

iTrader: (2)

I vote for tinsel leads on the subs or really bad power to the amps. (Although I would expect them to cycle off and back on if they had a power/ground issue that was starving them)

If you have any kind of speaker available, you could just disconnect one of the subs and connect the "test" speaker to ensure the amps still have output.

Also, if the tinsel leads are gone on the subs, any cheap multimeter will read "open" across the sub's terminals.

Z_enthusiast

iTrader: (16)

i was running the 4ohm set up at the time and the power cable for the amps isnt that big but wouldnt it be messed up from day one if it were a power/ground issue? very well could be the subs but i was thinking since they DID work when i cycled the power and they sounded clear i wasnt thinking it could be subs

Z1NONLY

iTrader: (2)

If the problem is corrosion or a loose connection, it could work and then not work.

Tinsel leads on subs are kind of finicky when they start to fail. Most of the time they are dead at lower volumes than just "switch on" at higher volume.

However, the nature of the failure can sometimes cause the symptoms you had.

A test speaker and/or a multimeter would probably get you a definitive answer in a matter of minutes.

Either can be had at radio shack for ~$15 or less.

If you have the amp for your highs in close proximity to your sub amps you could just connect the 4 ohm load to an output on the amp you use for your highs. Subs don't like full range sound, but they should "play" the high frequencies enough to demonstrate they work.

It is unusual to have two subs fail at once, but sometimes one has problems that aren't noticed until the other starts having problems too.

beezee

iTrader: (19)

Can you explain further how you are powering them. Where is the power source coming from before it gets into the splitter. You mean you are using the same source for the main amp power and also the remote turn-on?

Z_enthusiast

iTrader: (16)

One wire from battery then splits to two wires for amps. then the remote it coming from the radio power wire, one from radio to amp 1 then from amp 1 to amp 2.

TURBOROADSTER

iTrader: (4)

At bare minimum , I would run 4 gauge off the battery with an Anl fuse holder within 18" of the battery . You then can then split to each amp with a fused distribution block . Put the Block close to the amps , and run 8 gauge to each amp . Do the same for grounds , 8 gauge out of each amp(short run ) to a non fused distribution block , to 4 gauge , to grounding point . Make sure grounding point is bare metal and not paper thin , you want your screw to be tight .
As far as the remote wire , split off the wire before the amps , and run a separate wire to each amp .

blasian

iTrader: (29)

I have a sub and amp that I haven't put in my Z yet. We'll pinpoint the issue soon.

beezee

iTrader: (19)

What I would do is to go over and make sure nothing came loose from vibration
(RCA wires, power and ground as well as the speaker wires going to the subs.).