ry4ndavis

Need help building a sub box for the z.
I am building one for underneath the strut bar for 1 10.
Just really need help on finding out the dimensions and angles of underneath the srut bar

travlee

iTrader: (8)

where in texas are you, i have one for dual 10 that i can measure later, then essentially split it in half

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

Use cardboard. . .

ry4ndavis

im in south Arlington. if you could i just need the height of under the strut bar and if possible the angle of the strut bar since the bottom is wider then the top.

Syner

What are you planning to build it out of?

ry4ndavis

Im building it out of mdf basically making the zenclosure 1 10 box but making it at the house to hopefully save on cost and I want the outside black vinyl instead of carpet.

ry4ndavis

i just need the angles and width of top part under strut bar

Syner

Do you have any experience?

You don't need the measurements.
1) Use a piece of cardboard.
2) Trace the contour from the back side.
3) Trim the cardboard to make a template.
4) Trace your template onto MDF
5) Cut on the outer edge of your pencil mark.
6) Test fit and shave to match exact.
7) Belt sand 1/16" extra after a perfect fit for vinyl.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

i will be down in that area saturday morning and can bring it with me.... will pm you an offer you prob cant refuse

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

Partial Spoonfeed

Syner

lol I could really spoonfeed.

Soften the corners by hand. Use a fine paper if you're using MDF.
Use a good quality wood glue and 20-22ga. pins to nail.
Use a hole saw to cut your vents. If you don't have an insert, use a router bit with a bearing to round out the corners.
Once assembled, seal all your joints inside with silicone.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

I sold him a box for dual tens for $50...

92K1500

iTrader: (1)

1. I've never used a hole saw when building a sub box.... And if he doesn't have an insert for what?

2. Silicone releases an acidic fume when drying. Either let the silicone dry for 24 hours before installing the subs (helps to put a fan blowing into the box) Or don't use it at all. I just put a good bead of wood glue on all my joints inside the box. I have no leaks and it hasn't failed me thus far.

Syner

That's cheap. Used boxes go for at least $100 around here.

A hole saw will make a nicer cut, faster than anything else. And it's a guaranteed circle. Based on the OP's original question, I was giving the easiest method.

I was talking about an insert for the vent. I've used polymer sleeves to give a finished look. If I don't have any, I router the edge to give a nicer appearance.

+1 on 24 cure time before use/sub install. I use Titebond for any furniture I make/repair so it's all I have in my garage. 1/4" bead along all edges, then wipe away excess once pieces are joined. It's sealed at this point, but I add silicone anyway. Personal preference

Do you just glue? Or do you pin as well?

travlee

iTrader: (8)

i got tired of seeing it in my storage

Syner

A full tank of gas is better than an old sub box taking up room

92K1500

iTrader: (1)

Do you just cut a hole in the box for a vent/port? They are supposed to be set to a tuned length, not just a hole. Port area, port length and box volume all work together to tune the box to a certain frequency to change how the sub sounds/performs.

I prefer slot ports due to ease of build/design and it gives the box extra strength without having to run bracing. I also double baffle my boxes if it is a large baffle.

I use just plain wood glue on all my edges and then the same plain wood glue on the joints inside to make sure it is completely sealed. When I'm building I will cut all my pieces, then build it dry to make sure everything fits and I wont have any problems (mismarked cut etc...). I predrill and screw every board in multiple places. I have a drill block that is perfect for centering screw holes on 3/4" wood. The screws will clamp the pieces together while the glue sets.

I've also been jiggin' the holes in my boxes but now that I have a router (Thank god no more sanding the edges!!!) I can get a Toolmaker circle jig to cut my circles.

I'm actually about to build a ported box for 2 10"s here in the next couple weeks for the Z. My single sealed 12 is wearing out.

Syner

LOL no I don't just cut a hole. Matched to whatever sub specs call for.

I prefer slots as well, they look better, and depth is easier to work with.

Screwing isn't a bad idea. I pin through wet glue essentially make a glued nail.

What type of drill block are you using? I use a vertias dowelling jig for furniture. They work great for dowels, barrel hinges, and setting pilots.
http://www.veritastools.ca/Products/Page.aspx?p=166

to router usefulness. My router table is one of my heaviest used tools.

I want one of those circle jigs. Now I just need to come up with a project to use it lol

92K1500

iTrader: (1)

Okay I was just making sure. I've seen people do weird things before. The way you had it worded made it sound like you just cut a hole and were done. I had someone tell me to tune a port you just cut a hole and play music and just keep cutting the hole bigger till you find the size that sounds best.

I have a personal issue with nails. I refuse to use them on anything. Screws and bolts for me.

The drill block I have is one I acquired from a buddy that worked in an aircraft shop. It had little feet on it to space it up off the work surface so the shavings would come out but I found that the size/location of the holes in it is almost dead center with a 3/4" piece of wood if you hook the leg on the outside of the board. So I got the dremel out and chopped one leg off. Then you just hook it on the edge and slide it along drilling your holes. Sometimes you gotta lift it and get the sawdust cleared out but that's no biggie to have perfectly straight screws. I might take it to the local machine shop and have the bottom milled out a little to allow for clearing.

It was similar to this but without the bolts in the side and smaller holes in it and they are all centered.




I have hardly used my router but if you get a circle jig buy the one from toolmaker metalworkz. I've seen plenty of people ***** about the plastic jasper jigs breaking.

Syner

LoL @ cut the hole bigger and bigger until it sounds good. I've seen people do weird sh*t as well.

I prefer nails. Especially with antique furniture where the old wood cracks even with huge pilots. 22ga pin goes in without any issues.

I'll definitely look into it. Thanks