MatthewBouchard

iTrader: (2)

I saw in one of you're threads you have a base model, so i did not think to mention if you had a bose system

openupitsdave

I thought I was getting the base model but I just found out its Touring.

I could still use that harness....right? arggg lol.

MatthewBouchard

iTrader: (2)

I know nothing about the blose system. When I bought my z I was trying to stay away from it lol. So I am no help

When I am in a jam, I use crutchfield(like most do). The site shows this harness ~ http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1207075...g-Harness.html

There are numerous threads on here that I'm sure would help you .

openupitsdave

Cool thanks Matt

I email PAC and they said I should be OK using the regular harness if I plan to replace all stock parts including amp... That harness in the link you gave is for if you want to keep using the factory Bose amp.

And for anyone bumping into this thread confused as I was, there's also another harness that will work for my situation.. its called the Best Kits harness BHA7550..

Cheers!

92K1500

iTrader: (1)

Looks like I was right. The head units should be the same for either the bose or base. It's just the stuff after the head that are different and if you're not going to use the bose stuff you can use the regular harness.

DarkCreep

iTrader: (1)

All this talk about PAC this and PAC that....

I used the Metra harness that came with my radio from crutchfield and everything works flawless, even my sub!! I never understood the need for anything else.

Didnt do anything "special" either.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

you only need the pac harness if you want to retain steering wheel controls. if you have the blose system and you are not going to use that amp, you will more than likely have to run all new wires

openupitsdave

got the alpine type R's instead... mounting depth is a big deeper (2.3125in) but I did some reading and it looks like they will fit with OME spacer... I just hope the plastic doesnt crack when I screw the speaks into the spacer :/ And I hope they dont rattle..... I really dont wanna spend 25$ on the zenclosure MDF spacers

Spike100

^^ Dave… The OEM speaker-mounting-rings will provide the spacer you need for your new Alpines. The OEM mounting-rings are robust and won’t crack when used as a spacer. In fact they are built better than a spacer.

I used the OEM speaker-mounting-rings as spacers for my Focal speakers, and I never noticed any problem. --Spike

openupitsdave

Im looking to install new door speakers which will be powered by amp behind passenger seat. I will be using my own speaker wires obviosly. Now I just need to find the right tutorial on how to route the wires....and i'm not talking about the tutorial that says to drill through your Molex - That just seems like such a stupid thing to do! I've heard MANY people say they messed up and now their window wont open, trunk wont pop, etc... NO THANKS!

I've heard of people drilling holes, routing the wire from the door to the inside of the car with no probs. (just that it doesn't "look stock"). I don't mind drilling holes if it means I don't have to drill my damn Molex harness. I just need to know exactly where the holes go so I don't drill into something and permafudge whatever's behind it..

Been searching forums with no luck... deleted photos..

Anything but the Molex, please!

craig12895

iTrader: (7)

When you say molex do you mean that beefy harness that is inside the door jam, like near the hinges?
If so, that is where I routed my speaker wires, except instead of drilling through it, I simply pulled the black boot out a little and ran the speaker wires through that and then simply pushed the black boot back on.
Hopefully that makes sense. Ive had it like that for 8 months now and no issues.

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

Did your car have the stock bose system or no?

openupitsdave

iideadeyeii. Its bose. (03 touring)

craig, that sounds pretty easy too... Im blown away by the amount the people that are drilling through the harness... madness spreads!

openupitsdave

Also, what would be easiest... routing from the car to the door, or the door to the car?

openupitsdave

Everyone is saying to go with only door speakers... Why not ONLY rear speakers? How would it sound any better or worse than door speakers?? Yes the rear sound hits the back of your seat, but the door sounds hit your feet....

in most cases, a car has rear speakers way in the back seats but the 350z does not... the 350's rear speakers are relatively close to your ears. Maybe even closer than the door speakers... I think people are just keeping up this trend of "door speakers only" when it shouldn't even apply to the 350z..

thoughts?

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

Routing it to the left rear of the trunk and using stock wiring from bose amp(this is what I did and I'm running 4x components 150wrms)

openupitsdave

youre suggesting to use stock wiring for 150watts per speaker? Is that OK? Im also gonna be feeding 150wattsrms per speaker..

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

I am not 150/4 37.5 wrms, but 18ga wiring can take 6 amps max at 120v which equals 720watts. I see no reason to increase the ga of the wiring.

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

I've jump started cars with 16ga extention cords. . .

craig12895

iTrader: (7)

I actually ran the speaker wires from the door to the car because it's easier to get aroumd the harness that way. I also added tweeters to my doors as well so I ran the wires through there as well. No drilling necessary