Just bought a Z! some audio questions
09-24-2014, 11:00 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Just bought a Z! some audio questions
350Z AUDIO INSTALL FAQ
Q:Where do I run all the wires?
A: The picture below shows a typical 350z setup with 2 door speakers and a subwoofer in the trunk. All wires are hidden under interior panels (center console, side panels, etc)
Q: How are the door speakers amplified? Will the stock radio be good enough to power something like Alpine Type-R's, or should I upgrade to a better amp?
A: The OEM headunit powers all 4 OEM speakers. The Bose amp powers the subwoofer. Both the factory Bose amp and factory headunit are too weak to power aftermarket speakers/subs. (unless they're junk). Purchase new amplifier(s) to give sufficient power to your aftermarket speakers.
Q: What is the maximum depth for door speakers? (with window down). Will I need to buy a spacer, or can I use the OEM spacer?
A: Maximum "top-mount depth" for any aftermarket speaker with OEM spacer is about 2.5 inches. To use the OEM spacer, cut out the factory speaker from it. The OEM spacer is about 1inch.
Q: Where are some practical spots to mount amplifiers?
A: In the glovebox behind passenger seat. Another good spot is behind the driver seat where the factory subwoofer goes. I removed it so it made for a perfect amp spot.
Q: What harness do I need to buy if I want to upgrade to an aftermarket stereo?
A: If you don't plan on using the factory stereo (its junk), then the is the harness you want. You will NOT be able to use the steering wheel controls with this harness. If you want to retain steering wheel controls, buy the ROEM-NIS2 unit ($35). (or AOEM-NIS2 for factory amp integration)
Q: Which wires on the harness' need to be spliced together?
A: If you will be running new wires from your speakers directly to your amp, the only wires on the 2 harness' that need to be spliced together are the oranges, reds, blacks, and yellows. The blue wire w/ white stripe must be spliced with the wire that comes from your amp (The signal/remote wire).
Q: I just installed my new radio but now there's a gap between the radio and my dash. What do I need to make it look better?
A: You need a double din dash kit. The most common one is the "Scosche Dash Kit" which can be found on amazon for cheap.
Q:I plan to either install door-only components OR rear-only components (with tweeters in stock location of course) I see alot of people doing ONLY door speakers but why not ONLY rear speakers? They're closer to head-level and seems like the soundwaves can travel more freely... thoughts on this?
A: If you're only going to install 2 speakers, put them in the doors.
Q:Best practical option for subwoofer box/enclosure?
A:The Zenclosures sub box fits right under the rear strut brace of the 350z. There are two styles:
Rear facing and Front Facing (front fire).
Another option is to build or buy a subwoofer box that fits inside the factory subwoofer location. Do not just replace your factory subwoofer with a new one and expect it to sound good. You need a proper enclosure for it.
Q:I want to run new speaker wire from the door speakers directly to the amp. Where do I run those wires?
A: The best place is through the rubber door jamb. Pull out the rubber piece, run your wires through, then reinsert rubber piece. Or you could poke a hole in the rubber piece and run the wires through there. Another method is running the wires through the Molex piece. (I dont personally prefer this method as it seems sketchy, but alot of people have success with it.
Q: Do I absolutely have to run new wires from the speakers to the amp directly?
A: Although thicker gauge wire is safer and can withstand more current, the OEM wiring should be good enough in most cases. If you wont be using new wires, you can use the OEM wiring that goes from the speakers to the headunit. In that case, you will need to connect the appropriate harness wires (purples, greys, greens, whites typically).
Q:Where do I run all the wires?
A: The picture below shows a typical 350z setup with 2 door speakers and a subwoofer in the trunk. All wires are hidden under interior panels (center console, side panels, etc)
Q: How are the door speakers amplified? Will the stock radio be good enough to power something like Alpine Type-R's, or should I upgrade to a better amp?
A: The OEM headunit powers all 4 OEM speakers. The Bose amp powers the subwoofer. Both the factory Bose amp and factory headunit are too weak to power aftermarket speakers/subs. (unless they're junk). Purchase new amplifier(s) to give sufficient power to your aftermarket speakers.
Q: What is the maximum depth for door speakers? (with window down). Will I need to buy a spacer, or can I use the OEM spacer?
A: Maximum "top-mount depth" for any aftermarket speaker with OEM spacer is about 2.5 inches. To use the OEM spacer, cut out the factory speaker from it. The OEM spacer is about 1inch.
Q: Where are some practical spots to mount amplifiers?
A: In the glovebox behind passenger seat. Another good spot is behind the driver seat where the factory subwoofer goes. I removed it so it made for a perfect amp spot.
Q: What harness do I need to buy if I want to upgrade to an aftermarket stereo?
A: If you don't plan on using the factory stereo (its junk), then the is the harness you want. You will NOT be able to use the steering wheel controls with this harness. If you want to retain steering wheel controls, buy the ROEM-NIS2 unit ($35). (or AOEM-NIS2 for factory amp integration)
Q: Which wires on the harness' need to be spliced together?
A: If you will be running new wires from your speakers directly to your amp, the only wires on the 2 harness' that need to be spliced together are the oranges, reds, blacks, and yellows. The blue wire w/ white stripe must be spliced with the wire that comes from your amp (The signal/remote wire).
Q: I just installed my new radio but now there's a gap between the radio and my dash. What do I need to make it look better?
A: You need a double din dash kit. The most common one is the "Scosche Dash Kit" which can be found on amazon for cheap.
Q:I plan to either install door-only components OR rear-only components (with tweeters in stock location of course) I see alot of people doing ONLY door speakers but why not ONLY rear speakers? They're closer to head-level and seems like the soundwaves can travel more freely... thoughts on this?
A: If you're only going to install 2 speakers, put them in the doors.
Q:Best practical option for subwoofer box/enclosure?
A:The Zenclosures sub box fits right under the rear strut brace of the 350z. There are two styles:
Rear facing and Front Facing (front fire).
Another option is to build or buy a subwoofer box that fits inside the factory subwoofer location. Do not just replace your factory subwoofer with a new one and expect it to sound good. You need a proper enclosure for it.
Q:I want to run new speaker wire from the door speakers directly to the amp. Where do I run those wires?
A: The best place is through the rubber door jamb. Pull out the rubber piece, run your wires through, then reinsert rubber piece. Or you could poke a hole in the rubber piece and run the wires through there. Another method is running the wires through the Molex piece. (I dont personally prefer this method as it seems sketchy, but alot of people have success with it.
Q: Do I absolutely have to run new wires from the speakers to the amp directly?
A: Although thicker gauge wire is safer and can withstand more current, the OEM wiring should be good enough in most cases. If you wont be using new wires, you can use the OEM wiring that goes from the speakers to the headunit. In that case, you will need to connect the appropriate harness wires (purples, greys, greens, whites typically).
Last edited by openupitsdave; 08-01-2016 at 03:26 PM.
09-25-2014, 03:10 AM
#2
Registered User
Hello Z'ers! Just bought this amazing vehicle from a friend who didn't give 2 craps about his audio so I'm about to tear this B apart and install some real deal audio shtuff. Its an 03 base model.
Basically, I plan to remove the rear 6.5's entirely, replace the door speakers with some decent component Alpine, and from what ive read so far in the forum, I shouldn't mount my sub in the factory location, but instead build a sub box and seat it in that sub area... Hoping this setup will be legit..
Q: What is the maximum depth for door speakers? Will Alpine Type-R's fit? Those are the speakers I used in my last car and I loved them, although, that was 6 years ago and probably are now outdated... Is there anything around the $150 price range that will blow those away? (and also fit in a 03 Z)
Q: How are the door speakers amplified? Through the main headunit?, or is there a separate amp hiding somewhere? Is the amp good enough to power Alpine Type-R's or should I replace the amp?
Q: Best place to mount amp for only the door speakers?
Basically, I plan to remove the rear 6.5's entirely, replace the door speakers with some decent component Alpine, and from what ive read so far in the forum, I shouldn't mount my sub in the factory location, but instead build a sub box and seat it in that sub area... Hoping this setup will be legit..
Q: What is the maximum depth for door speakers? Will Alpine Type-R's fit? Those are the speakers I used in my last car and I loved them, although, that was 6 years ago and probably are now outdated... Is there anything around the $150 price range that will blow those away? (and also fit in a 03 Z)
Q: How are the door speakers amplified? Through the main headunit?, or is there a separate amp hiding somewhere? Is the amp good enough to power Alpine Type-R's or should I replace the amp?
Q: Best place to mount amp for only the door speakers?
All amps can go behind the drivers seat in the large area where the factory sub should go. I bent two brackets to attach somewhere and put my stuff on a piece of MDF so it never moves.
09-25-2014, 06:44 AM
#3
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Hello Z'ers! Just bought this amazing vehicle from a friend who didn't give 2 craps about his audio so I'm about to tear this B apart and install some real deal audio shtuff. Its an 03 base model.
Basically, I plan to remove the rear 6.5's entirely, replace the door speakers with some decent component Alpine, and from what ive read so far in the forum, I shouldn't mount my sub in the factory location, but instead build a sub box and seat it in that sub area... Hoping this setup will be legit..
Q: What is the maximum depth for door speakers? Will Alpine Type-R's fit? Those are the speakers I used in my last car and I loved them, although, that was 6 years ago and probably are now outdated... Is there anything around the $150 price range that will blow those away? (and also fit in a 03 Z)
Q: How are the door speakers amplified? Through the main headunit?, or is there a separate amp hiding somewhere? Is the amp good enough to power Alpine Type-R's or should I replace the amp?
Q: Best place to mount amp for only the door speakers?
Basically, I plan to remove the rear 6.5's entirely, replace the door speakers with some decent component Alpine, and from what ive read so far in the forum, I shouldn't mount my sub in the factory location, but instead build a sub box and seat it in that sub area... Hoping this setup will be legit..
Q: What is the maximum depth for door speakers? Will Alpine Type-R's fit? Those are the speakers I used in my last car and I loved them, although, that was 6 years ago and probably are now outdated... Is there anything around the $150 price range that will blow those away? (and also fit in a 03 Z)
Q: How are the door speakers amplified? Through the main headunit?, or is there a separate amp hiding somewhere? Is the amp good enough to power Alpine Type-R's or should I replace the amp?
Q: Best place to mount amp for only the door speakers?
09-25-2014, 12:58 PM
#5
New Member
Thread Starter
I don't remember the exact max. depth on the front speakers but from what I do remember, 99% of aftermarket will require a spacer so that the window does not hit the magnet. Be very careful of this! Maybe even install the speakers with the window down so you don't forget.
All amps can go behind the drivers seat in the large area where the factory sub should go. I bent two brackets to attach somewhere and put my stuff on a piece of MDF so it never moves.
All amps can go behind the drivers seat in the large area where the factory sub should go. I bent two brackets to attach somewhere and put my stuff on a piece of MDF so it never moves.
I don't currently possess the car yet so I cant take any measurements... Im hoping someone on here will know.
Yeah, I might have to put both amps behind passenger seat in that empty spot....Makes the most sense, given that its easy to wire up..
Im gonna try to go for at least 100wattsRMS each side so the powerpack is out of the question.. need more powah!
Last edited by openupitsdave; 09-25-2014 at 08:21 PM.
09-25-2014, 01:19 PM
#6
New Member
I would say 2.5” (2.4” to be on the safe side) is the maximum depth that fits.
I tried installing a Focal 165 V2 - depth from wall: 68mm (2.7") – and it wouldn’t fit.
I went with a Focal 165 V Slim - Depth from wall: 56mm (2.2").
I tried installing a Focal 165 V2 - depth from wall: 68mm (2.7") – and it wouldn’t fit.
I went with a Focal 165 V Slim - Depth from wall: 56mm (2.2").
09-25-2014, 01:29 PM
#7
New Member
Thread Starter
ooo they might just fit then.. They're somewhere between 2.25 and 2.375 inches depending on which website you look at.. Thanks alot Spike... pressing Buy now. woot :]
Im starting to wonder if I should put the speakers in the back instead, and leave out the door speaks.....anyone have thoughts on this? I would keep the tweeters up front but use the type-rs in back with subW
Im starting to wonder if I should put the speakers in the back instead, and leave out the door speaks.....anyone have thoughts on this? I would keep the tweeters up front but use the type-rs in back with subW
Last edited by SR71; 09-25-2014 at 07:57 PM.
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09-25-2014, 07:27 PM
#8
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Ever been to a concert where all of the speakers were behind you?? Nope. It would sound like crap. It turns out that the rear speakers also sound like crap, I have mine almost completely turned down in preference of my front speakers. Don't even bother with the back ones.
First of all. Peak power means NOTHING. Match RMS wattage and forget peak all together. You also have to correctly match Ohms (2 ohm amp does not nessecarily mean 2 ohm sub!)
It would sound like crap. I've moved all my sound to my front speakers because those rear speakers are just in the wrong place all together. Too close to your head.
First of all. Peak power means NOTHING. Match RMS wattage and forget peak all together. You also have to correctly match Ohms (2 ohm amp does not nessecarily mean 2 ohm sub!)
It would sound like crap. I've moved all my sound to my front speakers because those rear speakers are just in the wrong place all together. Too close to your head.
Last edited by SR71; 09-25-2014 at 07:56 PM.
09-25-2014, 08:17 PM
#9
New Member
Thread Starter
Yeah I would completely remove the rear speakers if I decide they arent going to be my primary location for amped aftermarket speaks..
Spike, do you remember if you tried installing them with the window down or not? And did you use a spacer?
Spike, do you remember if you tried installing them with the window down or not? And did you use a spacer?
Last edited by SR71; 09-25-2014 at 11:57 PM.
09-26-2014, 08:21 PM
#13
Registered User
Yes.
the important part, as you have done it, is to run the RCA signal separately from your power cable to prevent interference. I did mine exactly as you diagrammed, except I only have a single 4-ch amp, with 2 channels bridged to my sub.
the important part, as you have done it, is to run the RCA signal separately from your power cable to prevent interference. I did mine exactly as you diagrammed, except I only have a single 4-ch amp, with 2 channels bridged to my sub.
09-26-2014, 09:01 PM
#15
New Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Nismo dude. I wasnt sure if speaker wire is supposed to be near power cable or not...Only RCA cant be near eh? Sweet! I think im ready to jump into this install!
92k, wuts photoshop?
:]
92k, wuts photoshop?
:]
09-26-2014, 09:22 PM
#16
Registered User
This is often the source of that awful "alternator whine" that can be heard on a poorly done install.
10-02-2014, 12:40 PM
#19
New Member
Thread Starter
Dimensions of the non-nav cubby?
Im trying to see if a HTC Flyer 7-inch tablet with fit in there.. The tablet is 195mm x 122mm
Last edited by openupitsdave; 10-02-2014 at 12:50 PM.
10-02-2014, 03:09 PM
#20
New Member
Questions:
1. What do you mean by “non-nav cubby?” Are you asking about the double-din slot?
2. What year is your car?
I have a 2003 Z with a Power Acoustik PT-700MHR LCD Monitor mounted in the upper forward cubby. The dimensions are 177.8x127x22.8. It’s a perfect fit. Those dimensions would also fit the DD slot.
195mm is wider but should fit the DD slot and the upper/forward cubby. Worst case would involve a slight amount of “dremeling.”
1. What do you mean by “non-nav cubby?” Are you asking about the double-din slot?
2. What year is your car?
I have a 2003 Z with a Power Acoustik PT-700MHR LCD Monitor mounted in the upper forward cubby. The dimensions are 177.8x127x22.8. It’s a perfect fit. Those dimensions would also fit the DD slot.
195mm is wider but should fit the DD slot and the upper/forward cubby. Worst case would involve a slight amount of “dremeling.”