Advice on setting up my 350z with a single 10" woofer
#22
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No problem - wiring a DVC 4 ohm speaker down to 2 ohm load:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/produ...4_ohm_mono.jpg
A sub is nothing more then air pump, so buying "fancy" subs is a waste of money. I've never spent more then about $150 on a single sub and won awards at competitions. Box size/construction, ohm load, crossovers, equalization, etc all make way more difference then how much $$$ a sub costs. A low cost sub in a great box will amazing you.
Now don't get me wrong a "cheap" sub is just that... I currently have a $50 one that claims to take "400 watts" yet I can bottom it out with only 250 watts. So go with something proven that matches your amp, box and listening habits.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/produ...4_ohm_mono.jpg
A sub is nothing more then air pump, so buying "fancy" subs is a waste of money. I've never spent more then about $150 on a single sub and won awards at competitions. Box size/construction, ohm load, crossovers, equalization, etc all make way more difference then how much $$$ a sub costs. A low cost sub in a great box will amazing you.
Now don't get me wrong a "cheap" sub is just that... I currently have a $50 one that claims to take "400 watts" yet I can bottom it out with only 250 watts. So go with something proven that matches your amp, box and listening habits.
#24
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Sorry for my lack of knowledge lol.
No problem - wiring a DVC 4 ohm speaker down to 2 ohm load:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/produ...4_ohm_mono.jpg
A sub is nothing more then air pump, so buying "fancy" subs is a waste of money. I've never spent more then about $150 on a single sub and won awards at competitions. Box size/construction, ohm load, crossovers, equalization, etc all make way more difference then how much $$$ a sub costs. A low cost sub in a great box will amazing you.
Now don't get me wrong a "cheap" sub is just that... I currently have a $50 one that claims to take "400 watts" yet I can bottom it out with only 250 watts. So go with something proven that matches your amp, box and listening habits.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/produ...4_ohm_mono.jpg
A sub is nothing more then air pump, so buying "fancy" subs is a waste of money. I've never spent more then about $150 on a single sub and won awards at competitions. Box size/construction, ohm load, crossovers, equalization, etc all make way more difference then how much $$$ a sub costs. A low cost sub in a great box will amazing you.
Now don't get me wrong a "cheap" sub is just that... I currently have a $50 one that claims to take "400 watts" yet I can bottom it out with only 250 watts. So go with something proven that matches your amp, box and listening habits.
So since a 4 ohm can be wired down to a 2 ohm.. would that be identical to just buying the 2 ohm type s?
If so then would it be wise to go with the 4 ohm so in the future if i wanted to changed it back to 4 ohm it wouldn't require getting a new sub?
#25
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Asking me? Sorry this was years ago and not SPL, I'm taking SQ comp. Given the OP's amp, requirements and budget I don't think he needs a sub that handles 1,000 watts when ported at 30 Hz in a huge T-Line enclosure.
#26
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So im stuck between the type s 4 ohm or 2 ohm..
So since a 4 ohm can be wired down to a 2 ohm.. would that be identical to just buying the 2 ohm type s?
If so then would it be wise to go with the 4 ohm so in the future if i wanted to changed it back to 4 ohm it wouldn't require getting a new sub?
So since a 4 ohm can be wired down to a 2 ohm.. would that be identical to just buying the 2 ohm type s?
If so then would it be wise to go with the 4 ohm so in the future if i wanted to changed it back to 4 ohm it wouldn't require getting a new sub?
The 2 ohm version can be wired as 1 or 4
The 4 ohm version can be wired as 2 or 8
Your current amp puts its most power into 2 ohms, thus a 4 ohm DVC speaker is the best choice.
In the future your amp upgrade will require getting another 2 ohm stable amp. This is a pretty standard ohm load and shouldn't be a challenge. Granted you might find better choices at 1 or 4 ohms but its not like your going to be screwed down the road it just requires planning and smart choices.
#28
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The Type S comes in two models: dual 2 ohm or dual 4 ohms.
The 2 ohm version can be wired as 1 or 4
The 4 ohm version can be wired as 2 or 8
Your current amp puts its most power into 2 ohms, thus a 4 ohm DVC speaker is the best choice.
In the future your amp upgrade will require getting another 2 ohm stable amp. This is a pretty standard ohm load and shouldn't be a challenge. Granted you might find better choices at 1 or 4 ohms but its not like your going to be screwed down the road it just requires planning and smart choices.
The 2 ohm version can be wired as 1 or 4
The 4 ohm version can be wired as 2 or 8
Your current amp puts its most power into 2 ohms, thus a 4 ohm DVC speaker is the best choice.
In the future your amp upgrade will require getting another 2 ohm stable amp. This is a pretty standard ohm load and shouldn't be a challenge. Granted you might find better choices at 1 or 4 ohms but its not like your going to be screwed down the road it just requires planning and smart choices.
Oay i Think im starting to understand this.. lol.
So would a 2 ohm type S be identical in DB, clarity, deepness, quality, etc to a 4 ohm Type S wired in the 2 ohm config?
#30
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You use the different impedance coils to get it wired to the correct load to get the most out of your amp. Since your amp makes the most power at 2 ohms and is not 1 ohm stable it would be best to get a dual 4 sub to be able to wire it to 2 ohms.
If you plan on upgrading soon and will be getting a 1 ohm stable amp I would get a dual 2 ohm sub and just wire it to 4 and live with it being underpowered till you get a new amp to properly power it.
If you plan on upgrading soon and will be getting a 1 ohm stable amp I would get a dual 2 ohm sub and just wire it to 4 and live with it being underpowered till you get a new amp to properly power it.
#31
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You use the different impedance coils to get it wired to the correct load to get the most out of your amp. Since your amp makes the most power at 2 ohms and is not 1 ohm stable it would be best to get a dual 4 sub to be able to wire it to 2 ohms.
If you plan on upgrading soon and will be getting a 1 ohm stable amp I would get a dual 2 ohm sub and just wire it to 4 and live with it being underpowered till you get a new amp to properly power it.
If you plan on upgrading soon and will be getting a 1 ohm stable amp I would get a dual 2 ohm sub and just wire it to 4 and live with it being underpowered till you get a new amp to properly power it.
#33
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Yeah, the type S 2 ohm is DVC..
Guess you learn something new everyday. Thanks guys
Also, before I do all this I need to add bluetooth or aux input. Do you guys have any experience doing this? I'd like something of high quality so i can listen to my 328kbps mp3's I've heard people saying the FM transmitters suck..
So whats easier/cheaper.. adding bluetooth or aux input?
Edit: Also, do you guys know what frequencies this setup will give me? How low do you think it will go in that under the strut bar box?
Guess you learn something new everyday. Thanks guys
Also, before I do all this I need to add bluetooth or aux input. Do you guys have any experience doing this? I'd like something of high quality so i can listen to my 328kbps mp3's I've heard people saying the FM transmitters suck..
So whats easier/cheaper.. adding bluetooth or aux input?
Edit: Also, do you guys know what frequencies this setup will give me? How low do you think it will go in that under the strut bar box?
Last edited by Budders; 01-21-2015 at 09:35 AM.
#34
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I added bluetooth, aux, usb and SD inputs all at the same time by getting the crappy bose head unit out of there.
Bluetooth would be better than Aux by a smidge. If you use the headphone style aux make sure to back the volume down a click or two to clear up the signal.
MP3's are crap quality compared to lossless. I have some Jazz music on a CD in a lossless format just for SQ competitions.
Bluetooth would be better than Aux by a smidge. If you use the headphone style aux make sure to back the volume down a click or two to clear up the signal.
MP3's are crap quality compared to lossless. I have some Jazz music on a CD in a lossless format just for SQ competitions.
#35
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I added bluetooth, aux, usb and SD inputs all at the same time by getting the crappy bose head unit out of there.
Bluetooth would be better than Aux by a smidge. If you use the headphone style aux make sure to back the volume down a click or two to clear up the signal.
MP3's are crap quality compared to lossless. I have some Jazz music on a CD in a lossless format just for SQ competitions.
Bluetooth would be better than Aux by a smidge. If you use the headphone style aux make sure to back the volume down a click or two to clear up the signal.
MP3's are crap quality compared to lossless. I have some Jazz music on a CD in a lossless format just for SQ competitions.
#37
New Member
Go with an alpine type r 10" for like $140 shipped new, dual 4ohm VC
then get the alpine monoblock 550 watt rms amp for around the same price ($150ish)
cheapest good quality setup you can find
then get the alpine monoblock 550 watt rms amp for around the same price ($150ish)
cheapest good quality setup you can find
#38
i'm from around the air port side of the tulsa. really i would figure there be z's around tulsa with system in them since there's a lot of kids around tulsa with z's. only reason i recommande sundown is because i have a single sa-10 in a vented box which sounds real nice.
Last edited by shadowm891; 01-21-2015 at 01:34 PM.
#40
well welcome to the club man i know the feeling ive seen a share of z's around just don't know anyone who own's one. maybe ill let you hear mine so you can say you have heard one lol