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I own 3 sundown subs. I've heard plenty at competitions. I went to world finals in 09. I've just never ran one myself. I have a prototype 12" and 2 SD2 8"s that I've never put power to.
There will be no audible differences between the 2 ohm and 4 ohm models, just pick the one that matches your amp.
How low will go? If you really want to know there is software that will predict the output but its nearly useless since it doesn't take the vehicles cabin gain into consideration. However since you are going sealed you don't have to worry about the F3 cliff you typically see in a vented / ported box designs. So just make sure the sub is recommended to run in size enclosure your getting and you'll be happy. Down the road upgrade your amp.
Also just realized your keeping the stock radio, thus you'll need a converter / adapter to feed your amp a signal. Search around here for more advice... because like most people I ditched all the Bose (blows) junk and put in a complete aftermarket system: Alpine head unit, Imprint processor, 4 channel amp, component speakers up front (no rears) and a sub.
damm it man wish i had the money to buy a saz-1500d i know my 10 would love the amp.
I bought it back in 07 as a refurb. It's been running great and has been through some hell. I had it wired to .75 ohms for a few years before selling the vehicle and pulling that setup out.
I have 7 working subs laying aroung the house not being used. 3 of them are in boxes and 3 have never seen power.
I have 3 amps laying in the closet, 1 head unit, 2 satellite radio add on things that I don't want and a 6.5" component set that is still BNIB.
There will be no audible differences between the 2 ohm and 4 ohm models, just pick the one that matches your amp.
How low will go? If you really want to know there is software that will predict the output but its nearly useless since it doesn't take the vehicles cabin gain into consideration. However since you are going sealed you don't have to worry about the F3 cliff you typically see in a vented / ported box designs. So just make sure the sub is recommended to run in size enclosure your getting and you'll be happy. Down the road upgrade your amp.
Also just realized your keeping the stock radio, thus you'll need a converter / adapter to feed your amp a signal. Search around here for more advice... because like most people I ditched all the Bose (blows) junk and put in a complete aftermarket system: Alpine head unit, Imprint processor, 4 channel amp, component speakers up front (no rears) and a sub.
I was just confirming about the 2 ohm dvc. Thanks for clearing that up
Also, yes i'd like to keep the stock head unit and add aux or bluetooth capabilities.
is there any way i can just tap into the exisiting wires? That amp has high level inputs. I used that on my old setup in my bmw. Just took positive and negative from each rear deck speaker and spliced them into the amps proprietary connector. Would something like this work with the Z?
If so, where would i steal the signal from? Rear speakers? or rear sub? i think the signal is crossed over so different frequencies going to the speakers vs the sub.. So maybe tap into the sub? how many hz would that signal be?
Its okay don't worry, i don't mind the conversation.. lol
PS:
One of my good buddies fiance is from Oklahoma and they're moving out there in 3-4 months possibly(His girlfriend is from there and they want to complete their PHDs out there).. We were having a convo the other day about my new Z and he's like it sounds badass. I said, yes sir it does and it deserves the open road.. He was like oh good, then you can come visit us in Oklahoma!
Told him i'd most likely get in trouble if into trouble driving cross country in a Z
Also, yes i'd like to keep the stock head unit and add aux or bluetooth capabilities.
is there any way i can just tap into the exisiting wires? That amp has high level inputs. I used that on my old setup in my bmw. Just took positive and negative from each rear deck speaker and spliced them into the amps proprietary connector. Would something like this work with the Z?
If so, where would i steal the signal from? Rear speakers? or rear sub? i think the signal is crossed over so different frequencies going to the speakers vs the sub.. So maybe tap into the sub? how many hz would that signal be?
Sorry but I can't offer any assistance here, I (like most people) ditched all the Bose junk and went full aftermarket. Maybe someone else will chime in.
Its a wired FM modulator, so you unplug the stock radio antenna from the back of the head unit and plug this puppy in. Then wire the 3.5mm aux in somewhere on your dash/hanging under a panel :P
Yes i do plan on upgrading the entire system in the future... new speakers with new h/u + door speakers /amp
01-21-2015, 02:35 PM
