Any good audio kits?
07-02-2015, 11:17 PM
#21
Plenty of threads like this in the audio forum, but here's an example:
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-v...ions-help.html
You'll also get more help if you mention your budget.
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-v...ions-help.html
You'll also get more help if you mention your budget.
07-03-2015, 06:11 AM
#22
That sub does not need a ton of power....???....read the reviews....it works well with all types of amp amounts driving it....I'm using it with a $50 sub and it's an impressive bang for your buck musical sub. 
Roadster wise....hmmm...that is tougher, as you'd have to make your own box (which is no big deal), but...the fitment into that space would be tougher to accomplish as the Infiniti wants about .75cu space....that's more than you might think when you're building it out of .75in MDF...doable, but will take a little digging around audio forums to find out how best to do that and get it to set back there in the stock sub location
with stability. If you're up to fiberglassing, that's another option, but a lot of work.
Post some asks for help in the diymobileaudio.com forums, or caraudio.com forums, that crowd could probably steer you pretty straight in sub selection for that location, and of course advise you effectively on all things audio.
If this helps....remember you can get a sub box made to fit the corner of your trunk....takes up only a bit of trunk space and sounds good from everything I've heard. If you can make your own great...fiberglass..but otherwise a bit expensive to have one done. You can also go semi-ghetto gettirdone style, which isn't the end of the world, and just build a box to house your sub and keep it loose in the trunk, removing it when you have to do the big grocery run. That's really the only cheap way I see working, and is what I'd do personally to keep it on budget and still give great sound. I don't use my trunk much at all really, but that's just me.
Saved
Roadster wise....hmmm...that is tougher, as you'd have to make your own box (which is no big deal), but...the fitment into that space would be tougher to accomplish as the Infiniti wants about .75cu space....that's more than you might think when you're building it out of .75in MDF...doable, but will take a little digging around audio forums to find out how best to do that and get it to set back there in the stock sub location
with stability. If you're up to fiberglassing, that's another option, but a lot of work.
Post some asks for help in the diymobileaudio.com forums, or caraudio.com forums, that crowd could probably steer you pretty straight in sub selection for that location, and of course advise you effectively on all things audio.
If this helps....remember you can get a sub box made to fit the corner of your trunk....takes up only a bit of trunk space and sounds good from everything I've heard. If you can make your own great...fiberglass..but otherwise a bit expensive to have one done. You can also go semi-ghetto gettirdone style, which isn't the end of the world, and just build a box to house your sub and keep it loose in the trunk, removing it when you have to do the big grocery run.
That's really the only cheap way I see working, and is what I'd do personally to keep it on budget and still give great sound. I don't use my trunk much at all really, but that's just me.Saved
Plenty of threads like this in the audio forum, but here's an example:
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-v...ions-help.html
You'll also get more help if you mention your budget.
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-v...ions-help.html
You'll also get more help if you mention your budget.
Yea, ive seen that thread. You're box is intriguing. I like that it is completely stealth. Budget wise?? Idk, i'd really really like to stay under 1500. Really under a grand if i could, but I need to be serious. What jl sub is that Dean?? No rattles??
07-03-2015, 10:04 AM
#24
Great idea. I should start looking at some of those forums for some more info. Ive been searching this to death really. Its what happens when I get something new. But good thinking. I kind of forgot about the corner trunk box. For some reason, i thought that was just for the coupe. But maybe not?? I'll check it out, thanks.
Yea, ive seen that thread. You're box is intriguing. I like that it is completely stealth. Budget wise?? Idk, i'd really really like to stay under 1500. Really under a grand if i could, but I need to be serious. What jl sub is that Dean?? No rattles??
Yea, ive seen that thread. You're box is intriguing. I like that it is completely stealth. Budget wise?? Idk, i'd really really like to stay under 1500. Really under a grand if i could, but I need to be serious. What jl sub is that Dean?? No rattles??
One way to save some $ is to get a headunit with a decent internal amp for the 4 main speakers, and just a mono amp for the sub. That's what I had originally, before adding the 4-channel amp later.
07-03-2015, 12:31 PM
#25
I can't recall what the model number of that sub is - sorry, it's been 4+ years. It's a 10", and in the middle of their price range. For that box, I had to be careful with both the depth and recommended internal volume. Not even a singe rattle or other unwanted sound, but the box is very solid, and lots of FatMat, even on the back of the original Bose grille.
One way to save some $ is to get a headunit with a decent internal amp for the 4 main speakers, and just a mono amp for the sub. That's what I had originally, before adding the 4-channel amp later.
One way to save some $ is to get a headunit with a decent internal amp for the 4 main speakers, and just a mono amp for the sub. That's what I had originally, before adding the 4-channel amp later.
07-05-2015, 11:42 AM
#27
07-05-2015, 12:07 PM
#28
Do not build your box until you have your sub picked out....friendly guidance here....not trying to be bossy....but you need to match the cubic space to the specs of the sub you buy, and each sub is different...the quality of your sound is far far more dictated by the quality of your box than the sub itself. Any pro installer will say the same....so the gluing and whatnot is easy...but make sure you calculate the cubic space very accurately to get optimum results, then sure...it's just a matter of screwing the parts down with glue, then sealing the seams and ensuring a sealed fit of the sub to the mounting area.
Keep in mind that in MDF once you screw your sub down you can't really unscrew it and then tighten them back down...the MDF doesn't respond well to that...the screws become loose....so common sense...just make sure your connections are correct inside the box from the sub to the terminal, especially for a dual voice coil sub..it's easy to get them wired wrong. Having to go back and unscrew the sub isn't good for the mounting seal....and of course other times this isn't a big deal if you unscrew it...but it does happen.
Saved
Keep in mind that in MDF once you screw your sub down you can't really unscrew it and then tighten them back down...the MDF doesn't respond well to that...the screws become loose....so common sense...just make sure your connections are correct inside the box from the sub to the terminal, especially for a dual voice coil sub..it's easy to get them wired wrong. Having to go back and unscrew the sub isn't good for the mounting seal....and of course other times this isn't a big deal if you unscrew it...but it does happen.
Saved
07-05-2015, 05:10 PM
#29
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Do not build your box until you have your sub picked out....friendly guidance here....not trying to be bossy....but you need to match the cubic space to the specs of the sub you buy, and each sub is different...the quality of your sound is far far more dictated by the quality of your box than the sub itself. Any pro installer will say the same....so the gluing and whatnot is easy...but make sure you calculate the cubic space very accurately to get optimum results, then sure...it's just a matter of screwing the parts down with glue, then sealing the seams and ensuring a sealed fit of the sub to the mounting area.
Keep in mind that in MDF once you screw your sub down you can't really unscrew it and then tighten them back down...the MDF doesn't respond well to that...the screws become loose....so common sense...just make sure your connections are correct inside the box from the sub to the terminal, especially for a dual voice coil sub..it's easy to get them wired wrong. Having to go back and unscrew the sub isn't good for the mounting seal....and of course other times this isn't a big deal if you unscrew it...but it does happen.
Saved
Keep in mind that in MDF once you screw your sub down you can't really unscrew it and then tighten them back down...the MDF doesn't respond well to that...the screws become loose....so common sense...just make sure your connections are correct inside the box from the sub to the terminal, especially for a dual voice coil sub..it's easy to get them wired wrong. Having to go back and unscrew the sub isn't good for the mounting seal....and of course other times this isn't a big deal if you unscrew it...but it does happen.
Saved
Not following this advice will make the sub sound muddy and/or be over or underworked.
This is particularly noticeable if you are building a cabinet for a given space limitation (like fitting it to the Bose space) - meaning insufficient chamber volume available - which may necessitate your needing to select a woofer based on available chamber volume, i.e., going to an 8" sub versus a 10" - as an example.
07-05-2015, 05:24 PM
#30
iIRC, the volume of the box I made was 0.64 cubic feet, and JL spec'd 0.72 as the ideal volume for the 10" sub I used. Not ideal, but that's the largest simple-shaped box to fit that area, and the JL engineer I contacted said to add about 12 ounces of polyester fiberfill to the box to make up the difference. YMMV, but certainly the details make the difference. So follow the advice of the manufacturer.
07-06-2015, 02:52 AM
#31
This is very helpful when building your box to spec
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/box_wizard.asp
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/box_wizard.asp
07-08-2015, 05:56 PM
#32
New Member
The biggest problem with stock location is the odd shape, if you don't build a custom box very few pre-fab boxes will fit back there. Some people just toss a simple box back there with the sub firing up or down. I tried the custom SRQ downfiring box (with a Polk MM 12" I had in my previous car) and it just rattled the hell out of things. So I knew I had to fire the sub thru the stock opening. I run an 8" Kicker L5 Solo (square sub) in my truck and it pumps pretty hard, so I figured an 8" in the Z would be acceptable. And the Infinity Reference 8" does a decent job... personally I think the Kicker sounds better in my truck but not sure if that's the sub or just the vehicle acoustics.
This is particularly noticeable if you are building a cabinet for a given space limitation (like fitting it to the Bose space) - meaning insufficient chamber volume available - which may necessitate your needing to select a woofer based on available chamber volume, i.e., going to an 8" sub versus a 10" - as an example.
Honestly I'd rather have a 10", as the 8" I have is a bit lacking but I wanted to keep everything hidden behind the stock grill which (if you measure) you'll find is actually 9". While you can get a 10" in there it required more custom fab work then I was willing to put into my quick project.