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need bose sub info

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Old 08-26-2015, 02:57 PM
  #21  
dcains
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I think it's easier to make your own box from 3/4" MDF. Lowe's was happy to cut the pieces for me when I bought a full 4 x 8' sheet of MDF, which was good, because I had no other way to get it home. The MDF was maybe $30, a box of screws was $5, I had the drill and countersink bit, and all the seams are glued and then caulked.
Old 08-26-2015, 03:45 PM
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HRMoneyPit
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MDF? What's that?


I had good luck with fiberglass. I'm thinking of moving the plastic covering and making a full box out of the space there. Then I wouldn't need any mat either cause the whole thing would he sealed
Old 08-26-2015, 05:12 PM
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dcains
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You'd never get that area properly sealed because of the wiring, seat belt retractor, etc. and, you want the proper volume, as recommended by the sub manufacturer. MDF = medium density fiberboard, not to be confused with particle board.
Old 08-26-2015, 05:30 PM
  #24  
HRMoneyPit
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Hummmm your giving me ideas.

I just see a problem with a box in there rattling around and not working right with the sub cover. Or the box itself shaking around.


If i turned the whole area into a sub idk how you say it won't be sealed? It would be the same effect as the box no? I'm a little confused
Old 08-26-2015, 05:37 PM
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dcains
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The box is tightly strapped in place. The back side of the Bose grille is treated with FatMat, and there are no rattles after almost 5 years.

If you take things apart and look at that area, you'll see why it's impossible to seal, and as I said, you also have no control over the internal volume. A properly-designed box is the best solution, and the only thing I've heard that sounds good. It's also cheap and simple.
Old 08-26-2015, 06:48 PM
  #26  
HRMoneyPit
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Your ideas intrigue me
Old 08-27-2015, 09:05 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by HRMoneyPit
I had good luck with fiberglass.
If I could work in fiberglass I'd mold the stock glove box and grill to make one single drop-in "box" into which an 8" or 10" could be inserted from the front (like the factory setup). Basically I'd build the WickedCAS glove box but front firing instead of downfiring. Because downfiring in that space is just a terrible idea as the area below is the gas tank which (as one can imagine) makes all kinds of bad sounds when you bang on it with air from a subwoofer.

Honestly I'm surprised WickedCAS didn't build a front firing solution first. My guess is they figured out (like me) that the space is really optimized for an 8" sub but the majority of people think they need a huge 12" to get any decent bass performance.
Old 08-27-2015, 02:28 PM
  #28  
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That's what i was saying. Making the whole area a front facing sub. But the box does seem easier
Old 08-27-2015, 05:30 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by towncarblue
found the dimmensions i needed for a sealed sub box.
.55 cuft before displacement --- box dimensions 18.5" x 12.5" x 6.5"
thread with info
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-v...uestion-2.html

gonna throw either a sundown e-10 or a sundown sd-3
These look like they're rated pretty well. I should look into them more. I listen to mostly metal and hard rock, with the occasional old school rap. These would be good?? What amp are you thinking of pairing with it??
Old 08-29-2015, 08:30 AM
  #30  
towncarblue
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a Precision Power PPI BA1300.1 or a PPI BA2600.1D
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...BA2600.1D.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...BA1300.1D.html

i always like to buy more amps that needed so that the amp runs cooler and i can upgrade the sub later if i want. i will most likely buy the BA2600.1D so that i can maybe add another sub in the glove compartment next year
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