Rescue me from search hell- Bose issues
#1
New Member
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Rescue me from search hell- Bose issues
I have searched for this, but frankly there's just been so many threads throughout the years on this topic it's hard to find good info. And I'm no audiophile so I need someone to talk to me like I ride the short bus.
My 03 has a Blows system. I intend to get rid of. It skips cd's like a boss and the speakers cut in and out.
If I replace the speakers and the head unit and delete or relocate and replace the factory sub and amp, can I still use the Stock wiring with the adapter harnesses they sell at crutchfield or the like? This should work if I understand the issue being in the Bose HU itself. Or is the issue in the wiring and I need to re wire the whole thing? What do I do about the speaker amp?
Flame if you must, but please help.
My 03 has a Blows system. I intend to get rid of. It skips cd's like a boss and the speakers cut in and out.
If I replace the speakers and the head unit and delete or relocate and replace the factory sub and amp, can I still use the Stock wiring with the adapter harnesses they sell at crutchfield or the like? This should work if I understand the issue being in the Bose HU itself. Or is the issue in the wiring and I need to re wire the whole thing? What do I do about the speaker amp?
Flame if you must, but please help.
#2
6 inch cawk is my fave!
iTrader: (3)
You can get a new head unit
Replace all the speakers
And then you have some options...
The best option is to run new speaker wire to your new speakers. Remove your factory useless sub and replace with new amp and sub.
Option 2 replace that mad skipper with a new head unit from crutchfield. Use all their supplied stuff and your new head unit will send a signal to the factory amp that is located in the rear of the car. No idea if it will fix your skipping in and out problem.
3 new head unit new speakers hook up like crutchfield suggests and go into back and cut the speaker wires and reattach to bypass that stock amp.
4 bring it to best buy and make them figure it out.
Replace all the speakers
And then you have some options...
The best option is to run new speaker wire to your new speakers. Remove your factory useless sub and replace with new amp and sub.
Option 2 replace that mad skipper with a new head unit from crutchfield. Use all their supplied stuff and your new head unit will send a signal to the factory amp that is located in the rear of the car. No idea if it will fix your skipping in and out problem.
3 new head unit new speakers hook up like crutchfield suggests and go into back and cut the speaker wires and reattach to bypass that stock amp.
4 bring it to best buy and make them figure it out.
#3
6 inch cawk is my fave!
iTrader: (3)
Other things to consider. Ever since I removed the rear amp iI have had very poor reception for the radio I literally get 1 channel. It doesnt bother me but it might bother you. Pretty sure their is a remote turn on for an amplified antenna that gets lost in removal of factory set-up.
The rear speakers are easy to run new speaker wire, the fronts not so much. I am not excited about drilling holes in plastic wire plugs so I ran new wire to the rear and bypassed the wires for the front.
The factory speakers are 2 ohm. Your new head unit will likely be 4 ohm. If you dont remove your tweeters and bypass the wires in the back your tweeters will still work and your new front speakers will still work but it will be a 3 ohm load and your head unit or power source may not be happy about it.
Ok thats my 02... Good luck
Oooo one last thing that factory sub does absolutely nothing. You will not notice if you remove it... When you take it out and look at it you will be impressed with how garbage it really is. Once you take it out that space is nice for amp storage.
The rear speakers are easy to run new speaker wire, the fronts not so much. I am not excited about drilling holes in plastic wire plugs so I ran new wire to the rear and bypassed the wires for the front.
The factory speakers are 2 ohm. Your new head unit will likely be 4 ohm. If you dont remove your tweeters and bypass the wires in the back your tweeters will still work and your new front speakers will still work but it will be a 3 ohm load and your head unit or power source may not be happy about it.
Ok thats my 02... Good luck
Oooo one last thing that factory sub does absolutely nothing. You will not notice if you remove it... When you take it out and look at it you will be impressed with how garbage it really is. Once you take it out that space is nice for amp storage.
Last edited by dboyzalter; 10-04-2015 at 04:36 PM.
#7
New Member
Thread Starter
Thanks a lot guys.
Dboyzalter - I was a bit afraid the best option would be to rewire. But best to do it right I suppose. Thank you.
Beezee - I use crutchfield for parts lookup and then search elsewhere for lower prices. Because I'm a bass tard like that.
Thanks again guys. if I struggle I'll cry for help some more.
Dboyzalter - I was a bit afraid the best option would be to rewire. But best to do it right I suppose. Thank you.
Beezee - I use crutchfield for parts lookup and then search elsewhere for lower prices. Because I'm a bass tard like that.
Thanks again guys. if I struggle I'll cry for help some more.
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#8
6 inch cawk is my fave!
iTrader: (3)
No probs here is a nice 12 year old thread that outlines the fun of the front speaker wire replacement. I lost my confidence after reading through it but it's good to know what needs to be done.
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-v...the-doors.html
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-v...the-doors.html
#9
Wait, my plan was to replace head unit, front speakers and sub. Remove all factory stuff and amp front doors with new amp, all while using existing speaker wire. Am I dead wrong here? Apologize if this is exactly what you asked, but definitely need to confirm as it sounds as if i am wrong.
#10
6 inch cawk is my fave!
iTrader: (3)
Wait, my plan was to replace head unit, front speakers and sub. Remove all factory stuff and amp front doors with new amp, all while using existing speaker wire. Am I dead wrong here? Apologize if this is exactly what you asked, but definitely need to confirm as it sounds as if i am wrong.
#11
Yea sorry, was pretty tired when i wrote that. Yes, you have it right. I am putting in a new head unit and new amplifier to new door speakers. Sounds as if youre saying im better off replacing the wire. Is it necessary? Or just highly recommended? Thanks.
#12
6 inch cawk is my fave!
iTrader: (3)
Just recommended because the supe small size of the factory wire. If your going through the trouble of putting in new speakers and running an amp to them probably want some decent speaker wire.. Look through that thread I put the link too a few posts up.. They talk a lot about it.. And some people have different methods of running new wire.. And their are some horror storys mixed in from people getting drill happy...
#13
New Member
Other things to consider. Ever since I removed the rear amp iI have had very poor reception for the radio I literally get 1 channel. It doesnt bother me but it might bother you. Pretty sure their is a remote turn on for an amplified antenna that gets lost in removal of factory set-up.
There's a single wire in the same loom as the antenna cable. It's usually brown in color and runs parallel right up to where the antenna cable plugs into the back of your aftermarket head unit (from there it veers off into a Molex connector.) Tap that brown wire to the remote amp turn-on wire (usually a blue wire heading from your head unit to your aftermarket amplifier.)
Antenna amp will now turn on when you power up the radio. Problem solved.
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Spike100 (10-14-2015)
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