JAPZILLA

I just got around to upgrading from stock system, and got
-a pair of Polk db652's (with an amp to power them)
-a Kicker 40CWRT101 (10")
-and a pioneer GM-D8601 to power the sub.

I got all of it installed at Car toys. The sub is in the factory location, and when turned up, it rattles the frame it is in, and hits hard, but not nearly as hard as it should. It is a good kicker, and the amp meets its RMS needs (+ 50%), and the sub has a pretty high sensitivity and low bottom frequency. It should be rattling my bones, but instead is just rattling behind me. I don't know if this is because it needs a bigger enclosure, or I need to deaden the inside.

What should I do to bring the sub to its potential? and should I use Dynamat, or something else? Thanks, and sorry if I sound dumb

jdmfetish

iTrader: (3)

stock location is not an enclosure
so its not in an enclosure now

travlee

iTrader: (8)

you essentially have a free air mounting... that is all the stock location is

JAPZILLA

really? Haha I am very new to audio and I really dont know much... or anything about car audio. What can I do to make this work?

travlee

iTrader: (8)

have a real box built, or buy one, that goes under the rear strut bar

JAPZILLA

I do wish that were an option... but I have a roadster. I keep regretting getting the roadster.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

oooooh, ya not many choices

JAPZILLA

Thanks for your input

JMII

Build a box with an 8" or 10" that fires out thru the factory opening. As mentioned above currently the sub is not in a box or enclosure. There are solutions available but all of them I've seen fire the sub down which is just going to generate rattles like crazy. I really wish one of these fiberglass sub box makers would just take their current design and modify it for a front firing 10", hopefully a setup that completely replaces the stock sub frame and grill since those rattle too even after dynamatting.

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Put that bump in the trunk... I dont know about thr roadster or how much room you have in your cubby but im sure if your motivated you could seal up that space and make it work...

Tape fiberglass and great stuff could probably make a decent home in their.

dcains

iTrader: (15)

You can build a box from 3/4" MDF that will fit inside the area where the original sub was. iIRC you can make it 18" x 12.5" x 6.5". I have a thread in the audio section about the one I built and how the amp is mounted. Search for it.

shyun1250

iTrader: (4)

There's also a company that builds an enclosure that fits with a 10" JL sub or a 13" shallow JL sub in the stock location.

Might want to search around a bit for it.
I can't seem to recall which site it was. sorry


EDIT: Wickedcas makes it.
http://www.wickedcas.com/product.php...8&bestseller=Y

dcains

iTrader: (15)

So does SRQ:

http://srqcustoms.com/shop/vehicle-m...nd-front-seat/

Heard one, and it was nothing but rattles.

JMII

Owned one, can confirm: rattle city. You are pressurizing air in a thin metal box covered by snapped on random bits of plastic.

You need to pressurize the air in the car, this means a front firing sub. The hard part is building a box that fits the glove area and at the same time completely seals it off. Wicked just needs to make that down firing box into a front firing one and the problem is solved. Given the space this might require having only an 8" sub but I'd rather have one clean 8" then a sloppy 12".

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

I had a single 8 in the back hatch area, it was a pretty mint set-up untill I decided to go full retard.

jdmfetish

iTrader: (3)

pics or it didn't happen

dcains

iTrader: (15)

This is the one I built for the original sub enclosure. Very solid, airtight, properly-damped, and the correct size. Getting all the details right makes a big difference.