How to build a sub box for stock location
#2
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Almost done with the audio build project. Just have to put back few of the plastic panels. Designing the sub box was the most challenging part of the project. Box is made out of 0.75" thick MDF. It would have vent a lot smoother if someone had posted box plans online. Hopefully this box design comes in handy for somebody else.
Speakers are Alpine SPS-610. I have built up a pice of MDF around the speaker to eclose the speakers.
Pioneer D-9605 amp hidden under the glovebox.
Bass boost controller placed into the empty switch by teh seat heater switcher.
Speakers are Alpine SPS-610. I have built up a pice of MDF around the speaker to eclose the speakers.
Pioneer D-9605 amp hidden under the glovebox.
Bass boost controller placed into the empty switch by teh seat heater switcher.
#3
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Nice work.
I did something similar but left all the factory metal bits in place by building a smaller box for an 8". Mine is actually attached to the factory sub bracket with the 8" firing thru the 10" hole. I only had to trim a little plastic to make it work.
I wish someone would just build a fiberglass box like this as a ready made / drop in solution. Two 8"s side-by-side with a custom cover would be perfect. Down the road I might go with a rear corner 10" box as a single 8" behind the seat is a little weak for my taste. I originally put my box loose in the hatch just for testing and it sounded better that way because the seat didn't muffle the sound. At 6 foot I need the seat almost all the way back thus it blocks the sound somewhat.
I did something similar but left all the factory metal bits in place by building a smaller box for an 8". Mine is actually attached to the factory sub bracket with the 8" firing thru the 10" hole. I only had to trim a little plastic to make it work.
I wish someone would just build a fiberglass box like this as a ready made / drop in solution. Two 8"s side-by-side with a custom cover would be perfect. Down the road I might go with a rear corner 10" box as a single 8" behind the seat is a little weak for my taste. I originally put my box loose in the hatch just for testing and it sounded better that way because the seat didn't muffle the sound. At 6 foot I need the seat almost all the way back thus it blocks the sound somewhat.
#4
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I wish someone would just build a fiberglass box like this as a ready made / drop in solution. Two 8"s side-by-side with a custom cover would be perfect. Down the road I might go with a rear corner 10" box as a single 8" behind the seat is a little weak for my taste. I originally put my box loose in the hatch just for testing and it sounded better that way because the seat didn't muffle the sound. At 6 foot I need the seat almost all the way back thus it blocks the sound somewhat.
#5
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Been there, done that. Front firing is the key to stopping the rattles. I had the SRQ box with a single Polk MM 12 and I am happier with my rattle free 8". The Z is noisy as is, adding more rattles is like ->
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Sound system has been sounding great so far. Rattle free, clear sound and loud enough to actually hear the music while driving on the freeway with the roof down. But, I want to add another sub-woofer and amp to make it louder. So, I will be adding a 10" Alpine Type R and Hifonics Brutus BRX1116.1D amp to power it. Where should I put the second sub?
Easy option would be to replace the glove box with a sub-woofer box. But I want to keep all of the storage space if possible.
I have seen pictures of two 8" subs side by side behind the driver seat. Has any one put two 10" subs side by side behind the driver seat? It looks like there might be enough room to fit them and there is plenty of volume. But, too many curved surfaces to jam in a rectangular box.
Any info on how to build a box to fit two 10"?
Easy option would be to replace the glove box with a sub-woofer box. But I want to keep all of the storage space if possible.
I have seen pictures of two 8" subs side by side behind the driver seat. Has any one put two 10" subs side by side behind the driver seat? It looks like there might be enough room to fit them and there is plenty of volume. But, too many curved surfaces to jam in a rectangular box.
Any info on how to build a box to fit two 10"?
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I am struggling to create a box for two 10” subs that can be stuffed behind the driver seat.
Is it safe to cut out this compartment divider without affecting structural rigidity too much? Or is it like a load bearing wall in a house?
Is it safe to cut out this compartment divider without affecting structural rigidity too much? Or is it like a load bearing wall in a house?
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#10
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Good job.
This might be too late, but I wonder if you can just make a single box long enough to extend to the passenger side and put a divider within the box itself to section off the subs..? Instead of making two separate boxes on each end of the car, you'll have the division within the box right behind the steel divider on the car. And, yes, don't be afraid to cut some steel.
Last edited by Atreyu'z 350; 05-03-2017 at 06:19 AM.
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I have also designed a different box to fit into the same space to accommodate Alpine 10" Type R sub. Type S subs kept blowing up when turned up too much. New box is narrower but deeper. It leaves more usable storage space on the side.
#16
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Would you have any desire to build / sell one? Also, how is it rattle wise?
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Box doesn't rattle against the car. But, I had to go through the whole car and tighten down any sheet metal that was rattling. Starting with the license plate.
I don't have time to build and sell. I can send you drawings for the design if you are interested in building it.
I don't have time to build and sell. I can send you drawings for the design if you are interested in building it.
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