Encores System
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I finally got started on my car tonight. Im fiberglassing a enclosure behind the drivers seat. The Subs (2 10" Punch HX2's) are going to be mounted behind the factory rear speakers. Im cutting a 4" hole in the sheet metal to port it down to my enclosure. Im going to streach form fiberglass to the subs to get a look much like the factory rears. This will make the subs enclosure appear very small. Im using a Type RF Rockford amp to run the subs and a pair of RF Q 6 1/2's. Im going to streach form fiberglass to it. Its going were the cover is behind the dr. seat. It will be mounted to my hidden enclosure. Im hiding a small punch amp under the storage compartment to run my rear RF 6 1/2's. In the dash Im doing a RF DVD/CD/AM/FM player w/ built in dolby digital 5.1, and center channel amplifier. It also controls the digital DSP on the Type RF amp. Below the radio Im doing a RF 4" mounted like a wave guide from 4" to DIN size for my center channel. It will be covered in grill cloth, and mounted it a custom dash kit. Im mounting a 6.8 elite Accele in the factory compartment. All my connections will be via Stinger. Rockford Fosgate is giving me everything 25% off cost. Stinger is giving me all my connections. Im going to post pics step, by step.
Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic 3
This is were Im cutting 4" holes.
No those are not my amps power wire. That is the power, and ground when armed wires for my DEI window badges. They are now hidden. Im doing Stinger Expert 1/0 ga power wire, 3-12' Expert RCA's, 1-1.5" video RCA, Expert 1.5 farad cap, Expert ring terminals, Expert spk wire, and more than likely a SP1000 batt. Im going to keep up with it the best I can. I finished fiberglassing tonight, but ran out of room on my camera. Ill post pics of that as soon as I can as for now here are the materials I am currently using. Fish Man polyester resign.
I recomend tearing fiberglass mat instead of cutting. The ruff edges make a better bond between pieces.
bottom fiberglass enclosure.
Box Max spray helps seal pin holes (if present), helps prevent standing waves, and deadens the enclosure.
Box Max applied to enclosure.
I measured my enclosure by filling it with packing foam, then putting the foam in a box, and multipling LxWxH divided by 1728. This will give you cuft. I have 1.67cuft of airspace in the bottom enclosure.
Batt. pics
Taped up.
Glassed in.
Fiberglass shell.
Framed shells w/ holes cut for porting to bottom enclosure. Ready for sub rings to be mouted and fleece wraped.
Framed w/ rings
Fleece stretched, and stapled over frame.
First coat of fiberglass.
Ready for body filler, and lots of sanding.
Poly primed, and ready for wrapping.
centers in 3" pvc enclosures.
sub enclosure port to bottom enclosure.
jumper port from pass. enclosure to bottom enclosure.
You can tell because of the flash, but the edge of the plexi glows orange. This is the amp for my rears, and 1farad cap.
Sub pic.
another one.
Deck w/ center channel above it, and 7in accele screen playing DVD.
Accele displaying CD info. It also will display the RF logo if you choose so. This is great for MP3's.
zand02max very politly stated. I could care less about SPL, and Im not a person to mislead people. Anyway Im fine w/ you not buying my story. On that note heres latest pics. Didnt get the installed pics because the paint was still wet. Ill install them tommorw and take pics.
First trace your tweet trim w/ a pencil. You can use the flush trim, angle, or surface mount trim. Most tweets come w/ all 3. Then super glue that sucker in place. I use spray activater to dry the glue super fast.
tweet pic 3
Then bondo, and sand.
Next prime, and paint w/ textured paint to get the factory look.
Door speaker.
Tweet in.
amps, sub, and cap
another sub pic.
painted dash kit.
Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic 3
This is were Im cutting 4" holes.
No those are not my amps power wire. That is the power, and ground when armed wires for my DEI window badges. They are now hidden. Im doing Stinger Expert 1/0 ga power wire, 3-12' Expert RCA's, 1-1.5" video RCA, Expert 1.5 farad cap, Expert ring terminals, Expert spk wire, and more than likely a SP1000 batt. Im going to keep up with it the best I can. I finished fiberglassing tonight, but ran out of room on my camera. Ill post pics of that as soon as I can as for now here are the materials I am currently using. Fish Man polyester resign.
I recomend tearing fiberglass mat instead of cutting. The ruff edges make a better bond between pieces.
bottom fiberglass enclosure.
Box Max spray helps seal pin holes (if present), helps prevent standing waves, and deadens the enclosure.
Box Max applied to enclosure.
I measured my enclosure by filling it with packing foam, then putting the foam in a box, and multipling LxWxH divided by 1728. This will give you cuft. I have 1.67cuft of airspace in the bottom enclosure.
Batt. pics
Taped up.
Glassed in.
Fiberglass shell.
Framed shells w/ holes cut for porting to bottom enclosure. Ready for sub rings to be mouted and fleece wraped.
Framed w/ rings
Fleece stretched, and stapled over frame.
First coat of fiberglass.
Ready for body filler, and lots of sanding.
Poly primed, and ready for wrapping.
centers in 3" pvc enclosures.
sub enclosure port to bottom enclosure.
jumper port from pass. enclosure to bottom enclosure.
You can tell because of the flash, but the edge of the plexi glows orange. This is the amp for my rears, and 1farad cap.
Sub pic.
another one.
Deck w/ center channel above it, and 7in accele screen playing DVD.
Accele displaying CD info. It also will display the RF logo if you choose so. This is great for MP3's.
zand02max very politly stated. I could care less about SPL, and Im not a person to mislead people. Anyway Im fine w/ you not buying my story. On that note heres latest pics. Didnt get the installed pics because the paint was still wet. Ill install them tommorw and take pics.
First trace your tweet trim w/ a pencil. You can use the flush trim, angle, or surface mount trim. Most tweets come w/ all 3. Then super glue that sucker in place. I use spray activater to dry the glue super fast.
tweet pic 3
Then bondo, and sand.
Next prime, and paint w/ textured paint to get the factory look.
Door speaker.
Tweet in.
amps, sub, and cap
another sub pic.
painted dash kit.
Last edited by Mike Wazowski; 09-25-2008 at 06:58 PM.
#2
Good start...
I like your Dynamtting job, it looks pretty good, and it will pay off, trust me.
I hope that the wires that can be seen in those storage bin areas aren't your power leads, they look a little small...
Keep posting pics, it will be nice to see how your ported sub enclosures turn out...
I like your Dynamtting job, it looks pretty good, and it will pay off, trust me.
I hope that the wires that can be seen in those storage bin areas aren't your power leads, they look a little small...
Keep posting pics, it will be nice to see how your ported sub enclosures turn out...
#3
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All my connections will be via Stinger. Rockford Fosgate is giving me everything 25% off cost. Stinger is giving me all my connections. Im going to post pics step, by step.
cant beat that deal, how did you manage that one!?!? please keep up with this thread, your install sounds very interesting and I would like to follow it since I will be starting my as soon as my box and subs are ready. to many times people post when they start but tend to fall off and not update! keep the pics and details coming, esp pics!! lastly....what stinger parts / series are you going to be using?
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Re: Removable??
Originally posted by AndyB
Is the enclosure removable in case you need access to the tank sending unit etc?
Just curious.
Is the enclosure removable in case you need access to the tank sending unit etc?
Just curious.
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Originally posted by KJ-350
Two cables? Are you running a neg wire all the way back too?
Two cables? Are you running a neg wire all the way back too?
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#12
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I built a 3 sided box that slides into the bottom enclosure giving it the perfect airspace for making my enclosure sealed. I then have a door that goes on my bottom enclosure that have 2 ports making it then a ported enclosure. So I can flip flop back and fourth dependening on what sounds best, and which one has the most output.
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Ive finally got tunes. It sounds awesome. DTS is were its at. I played The Eagles on DTS, and almost had to light my lighter and hold it up in the air screaming freebird. The speeder seen in the begining of Episode 2 almost makes you air sick. If you close your eyes you swear the cars spining. Dolby Digital should be a standard in car audio. Im very pleased with the way everything turned out. The only thing I have left to do is paint my dash kit, and finish the cover board for my 4 channel. My cover board for my 2 channel, and cap is done, but I still have to put LED's in it. Its 1/2 in plexi with a black, and grey formika(sp?) top. Once I get it done, and cleaned up Ill post some pics of the finished install.
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My source is a rockford fosgate RAV DVD 1. Its a AM/FM, CD, MP3, WMA, DVD receiver w/ 6-5volt outputs, and 1 40watt center channel output. It has built in Dolby Digital 5.1, DTS 5.1 decoder. It will set you back about 1,399 bones.
#17
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Originally posted by tonkadog
Encore, that is beautiful work!!! Can I ask how many hours you have invested???
Encore, that is beautiful work!!! Can I ask how many hours you have invested???
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Sorry if I missed it, but could you tell me the Vb for each of the upper enclosures. I really admire your work...excellent job
If you have any more pix of the enclosures themselves or in the car I would really like to see them. Shoot me an email at jim.walter@klipsch.com ... if that rejects em send em to walterjj@rose-hulman.edu
Thanks in advance. I appreciate it ... and again .. very clean and beautiful install.
Jim
If you have any more pix of the enclosures themselves or in the car I would really like to see them. Shoot me an email at jim.walter@klipsch.com ... if that rejects em send em to walterjj@rose-hulman.edu
Thanks in advance. I appreciate it ... and again .. very clean and beautiful install.
Jim
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The upper enclosures are .6cuft each. Ive been playing with the enclosure size, and ports. Ported is VERY boomy. My rear wiper looks like its floating when the bass hits. Doing it sealed it actually sounds best with the bottom enclosure sealed off. Doing it that way the bass is tight and clean. Im playing with the bottom now to try to get the best of both worlds. Rockford recomends .7cuft per sub sealed, but you can go bigger or smaller. If it werent for the fact alot of people listen to my car and expect it to rip your head off I would have done a single 10", and not have ported it to the bottom. I like my music loud, but not boomy. I like it to seem like all the bass is coming from the front. I have my subs x-over at 50hz, and down. My front mids are 65hz, and up, and my center, and rears are 100hz, and up. I can play Shefield Labs drum record (oldie, but goodie) and you cant hold your eyes open when the snare hits. I love it . Thats what a pair of FNQ 6 1/2 will do when you put 500watts to them. I still have alot of tuning to do. Plus my tweets now are temparly mounted behind the factory grill so Im loosing alot of highs until I build my custom tweet pods. Ill take better pics of the subs in the car and post them when I get a chance. Thanks for the comploments, I wish you guys could hear it.
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Drop dead sexah
Absolutely great install ! These are the pics im bringing to my shop when im ready for them - The rear looks very very clean, and you still have all of the trunk space ( what little there is ) left over.
Just a thought - would you be able to make duplicates of the sub enclosures and sell them ? id love to get a pair to drop in ( if they can ) And im sure others would too.
great job on the install, and keep up the good work
Just a thought - would you be able to make duplicates of the sub enclosures and sell them ? id love to get a pair to drop in ( if they can ) And im sure others would too.
great job on the install, and keep up the good work