BabyZiLLa

iTrader: (7)

Thanks alot mate.. Really appreciate you taking the time.. Gives me a good start as Im mentally challenged when it comes to fabricating even the easiest things..

Ge|atinousFury

iTrader: (1)

No I didn't, so I'll have to remove the ground lug this weekend and get that spot down to the bare metal.

Thanks for asking...this is the type of stuff which is helping me out big time

Ge|atinousFury

iTrader: (1)

Merry Christmas everyone

I've heard that to install a double-din unit in the Z only requires the double-din trim piece from the Metra dash kit (for 06 Z). But there are some brackets included too that I'm not sure if I need to use or not.

Here's a pic....can anyone tell me if I'll need these 2 brackets to install the IVA-W205 or will I just need the trim piece?

sirfatty

iTrader: (1)

anyone is the remote turn on wire the lt green one or the red one

Ge|atinousFury

iTrader: (1)

Bump for my question (2 posts up, post #103)

hoss4131

it should be the blue one.

hoss4131

mine had some spacers that i had to put in there, although, i dont know that it is entirely neccisary.

also, IIRC the tabs had some clips that held the trim piece in place. but if you have something else holding the trim piece in place, then you shouldnt need them.

LAKERSFAN

iTrader: (12)

you should just be able to use the brackets that came off the oem headunit. i used the oem brackets with the metra piece.

MadCabbie

I have to chime in, i only wish i had seen this earlier.

Be careful with those amps. I love alpine and swear by mine(one generation older than yours) I almost upgraded untill i saw them in action. Not only did my stereo guy warn me against them, but people who used them every day said not to get them. Major issues with overheating and going into protection. On a normal install i wouldnt have mentioned it, but the way you have them set up....Just be careful..or be prepared to try something else...

Ge|atinousFury

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the heads up but with my listening habits I'm not too worried about overheating the PDX amps. The gains on the amps will not be set high and I enjoy a pretty low listening volume 90% of the time.

Additionally, the picture of my amp rack that I posted doesn't reflect it but there's now a big hole right beside the amps on the rack for cables, etc. to come through. It wasn't meant to be a "final" pic of the amp rack...I wouldn't dare install 2 amps in a completely sealed environment like the glove box. That hole will serve for ventilation and if I believe I need more ventilation than that I can always install 2 12v fans for intake & exhaust.

Ge|atinousFury

iTrader: (1)

About 30 seconds after I made that last post I thought to myself "If I may add a fan later on due to cooling issues, then why not just add one to start with and do it right the first time.". A quick trip to Radioshack later and I had a 12v relay to turn on one of my quiet 120mm computer fans that I had laying around at home.

Like I mentioned in an earlier thread, I used to mod all my computer cases and I had purchased a DeWalt bi-metal 120mm holesaw to use for cutting blowholes. I used it a few times and it's been in my tool chest for a while but tonight it got some much needed use I just cut out a quick 120mm hole, drilled some mounting holes, and mounted the fan in a pull configuration. Cold air from below the amp rack will be pulled into the glove box for the amps. I need a bigger exhaust hole than the one above the fan but it'll do for now.

Here's the amp rack with the fan, some wiring, and the relay....I'm about to solder this relay up. You can also see the distribution block up top for the amps:

Ge|atinousFury

iTrader: (1)

Just finished soldering up the 12v relay, here's a pic with the amps re-mounted:

MadCabbie

I meant the stacked configuration. Trust me iv seen them in a completely open enviorment. Like in a room, with a controlled temp. I just dont want you to burn them up. Good luck though your build looks very promising.

Ge|atinousFury

iTrader: (1)

Your input is noted.


On another note, I went ahead and got some of the wires ran for the install even though the kicks from Bing aren't supposed to be here until tomorrow.

1. Ran fused power wire from battery to glove box
2. Removed stock kick panels, door sills, etc. and ran 2 sets of speaker cables from the stock sub compartment to the kick locations. Got both sides done.

I also got the center dash part out and removed the (non-bose) CD player. The posters above that stated I wouldn't need those black brackets that came with the Metra dash kit were right. The metal factory head-unit brackets are all you need. I did drill the holes back about 1/4" and the head unit sits much more flush with the dash trim, which looks A LOT better. I connected all the wires to the head unit (Metra wiring harness, optical cable, Ai-Net cable, iPod cable) and as of now the center dash piece is back in the car but all the guts of it (AC box, etc.) haven't been put back together yet.

As a quick power-on test I reconnected the battery ground, grounded the head unit where one of the dash screws goes, and connected the Metra wiring harness. The unit powered on, no problem. I got a little scared when I looked at the other end of the optical cable coming out of the unit and there was no light being transmitted through it. Then I figured out that you actually have to go into the W205's options and turn the optical output on. Once I did that I could see the light at the end of the optical cable.

So, my car is in the garage with the dash torn apart but at least I've got wires ran and the head unit mounted. Once the kicks come in I'll hook everything up for a test run and if it all works I'll put everything back together like new. I'll see if I can get a pic of my dash as it looks now here in a bit.

RollingRocker

iTrader: (2)

I was noticing in your wiring harness pictures that you have the blue/white wire from the Alpine harness running straight to the PAC/TR7 green wire. You will also need to connect the remote power signal of your PXA-H701 and amplifiers to the blue/white wire in order from them to power up when you turn the system on. So you will need to solder another wire into that nice clean bundle of yours, unless you have something else to power up the gear that I'm unaware of.

Nice thread on your install by the way. I'm doing a very similar system to the one you are installing and decided after reading your posts to also install the PXA-H701. That is an awesome piece of equipment. Your diagram of the wiring harnesses was a big help as well. Keep up the good work!

RollingRocker

iTrader: (2)

Here is a link to a 350Z install on another forum that has some really creative ideas. http://www.audiogroupforum.com/csfor...ad.php?t=64305

I've been thinking about implementing the subs in my Z the way he did these. This car was in CarAudio & Electronics December 2007 issue. Pretty bad azz install. What do you think of the way he did the kicks?. How is Bing doing your kicks?

Ge|atinousFury

iTrader: (1)

Actually, one of the cool things about the W205/H701 combo is that they're both Ai-Net compatible so there's no need to run a remote wire from the IVA-W205 to the PXA-H701. The Ai-Net cable from the head unit provides the remote signal needed to turn on the PXA-H701. The only remote wire(s) that are needed are between the PXA-H701 and the two PDX amps that I'm using.

If you want confirmation of this, take a look here at the PXA-H701 manual and go to page 38 of the manual (which is page 40 of the PDF document). There you'll see that the blue/white "Remote ON Cable" is labeled "Not used in this system". Ai-Net and optical cables are all you need Thanks for the compliments as well.


Also, the latest update on the install is that I'm expecting the kicks from Bing on Monday or Tuesday. Things will get rolling once I receive those.

Ge|atinousFury

iTrader: (1)

Man, that's one monster of an install. Looks very nice but it would be a little flashy for my taste. I'm more of a "function over form" person myself. Either way I'm sure it sounds phenomenal though!

As far as my kicks go, Bing's mounting the Polk SR6500's off-axis in the optional coaxial configuration, like the picture below shows. I believe he damps the kicks with eDead as well. Bing and I chose the coaxial config to have L and R sound as point sources.




I've been reading a bit in the SR6500 manual and it states that for off-axis configurations that the tweeter should be wired in reverse polarity. I'll definitely have to experiment with that one when the time comes and see how correct they are.

RollingRocker

iTrader: (2)

That's awesome that you don't have to run the remote wire from the head unit to the H701. You just saved me a bunch of time, thanks. I would have stormed on down the road only to find out I didn't need the wire. Those Polks look pretty sweet. I opted for the JL Audio C5-650 components for the front and and the C5-650X coxials for the rear. I thought about pulling out the rear speakers. So I messed with the fading on the factory stereo and decided that it did make a difference for my listening preference so I decided to go ahead and install them. The pain in the a$$ of it is that I have a roadster so pulling that back trim out is a chore. From what I understand I have to pull the roll bar covers off and I guess that Nissan considers them disposable so you have to be really careful not to mess them up.

Thanks again for the info. can't wait to see how the kicks turn out.

Ge|atinousFury

iTrader: (1)

No kicks today and I don't believe any packages will be delivered on New Year's Day, so I'll more than likely receive the kicks on Wednesday.

I got some other stuff done, though. I applied Raamat and Ensolite to the hatch area and got the sub box installed. Black hatch carpet, black carpeted sub box, black subwoofer, black screws....very nice.

I have a pic of the raamat in the hatch but not of the ensolite (forgot to take one):