Originally Posted by StreetOC192

Vo, i knew it had to be something, and I had confidence you would find the issue sooner or later. Very glad you are happy with your sub purchase!!!!

Originally Posted by StreetOC192

^^^ That's not a bad problem to have!

Originally Posted by vo7848

Not being satisfied that the missing bolt was the only leak I decided to investigate futher. Saturday I decided to remove sub and inspect the interior of the enclosure. This time I placed a flashlight in the box and actually stuck my head in there to inspect. To my surprise I found the rear edge of the box's original baffle board seal had been compromised. I don't know what would have caused the seal to break, but it did.(photos below)
I re-applied liquid nails to the area. i also applied a 2nd layer of liquid nails to the parameter of the sub cut-out hole to ensure integrity. I let the box cure overnight, then drove to the car show on Sunday.

Thursday night's sound test was nothing compared to Sunday. The FI Q's true sound came out in all it's glory on Sunday. As far as SQ goes, it effectively reproduced clearer bass notes than the RF T1. Excursion was phenominal. I got this sub jumping at least 2 inches from it's frame, and holding it this time around. It kills the lows. My entire hatch rose as the lows hit. The only thing holding the hatch down was the fact that it was closed and latched. The rear windshield wiper was taking a beating too, wobbling violently, litterally jumping off the glass. I also witnessed the sides of my rear bumper flexing as the lows hit. Luckily I have the entire rear hatch Dynomatted. If not, the rattle would've probably been pretty bad.

I had many audio enthusiast coming up and asking what I had in there. They couldn't believe it was only one 12. One guy said, "Man, that sounds like three 12's!". I also had a few audio enthusiast compliment me on the sub selection. The sound system seemed to take away from the rest of my car. Alot of people ignored the rest of the car and went straight to sticking their heads in the car to listen.

My final conclusion is the FI Q is a superior sub to the RF T1....

Originally Posted by vo7848

Werd! I'm telling you, that FI sub is sick!! It amazes me at how one sub can hit so hard with the right amount of power and correctly built enclosure. There was a jeep parked behind me with four 10's. I was actually drowning out his bass. You could clearly hear the difference in sound quality and hertz level....

Originally Posted by 350zspl

your sub at $ 250 kills most $500 mainstream subs

Originally Posted by vo7848

Agreed 100%. I was a non-believer at first, but glad I took the risk and advice here. I'll never go mainstream again, it's a waist of money spending 2x as much for the marketing aspect.....

Originally Posted by vo7848

Agreed 100%. I was a non-believer at first, but glad I took the risk and advice here. I'll never go mainstream again, it's a waist of money spending 2x as much for the marketing aspect.....

Originally Posted by 350zspl

in all fairness mainstream companies like kicker and Rockford are publicly traded companies

they spend a boat load of money in research and development , the have board of directors , the have CEO that want vacation homes

therefore the price of their items is high

now i prefer to buy my product from owners and engineers that actually do it for the passion of competition premarily , and to get rich secondarily

Scott at FI and the boys at RD actually compete

would you rather buy product from a company trying to dominate thru wins at competitions, or from a company trying to justify 4th quarter earnings to a board of directors

Originally Posted by StreetOC192

but that the prices are so inflated due to marketing costs.

Originally Posted by clarkemtp

could you tell me where you got this 12" FI driver?


Thanks,
Clark

Originally Posted by doug

Originally Posted by clarkemtp

Alright VO, you sold me! Or, should I say, your results speak for themselves and they sold me on this driver. I've never been a "give me the same thing he got" kinda guy, so two JL's in a Zenclosures with a 1000/1 just was never gonna happen for me. So, when you see this post, could you tell me where you got this 12" FI driver?

My standing design requirements for the sub-bass portion of my in car audio/video system are:

* Retain spare tire
* Stealth/OEM-"look" install
* SQ. "Tight" controlled bass. No "boom". No slop. Think "punch in the kidneys".

This driver would further refine the parameters of my install to include:

* ~ 1.55ft^3 sealed enclosure huh? (as I understand it from perusing this thread lightly)

If that's the case, that's a relatively small sealed box, I've got a vision coming together in my head and I'm thinking this is do-able.

Thanks,
Clark

Originally Posted by 350zspl

are you crossing over double at sub amp and at head unit

Originally Posted by vo7848

I thought I'd touch back on this question. The other day I played around with the HU and was looking at it's internal crossover feature. It's pretty nice actually. It has a separate cross over feature for Low, Mid, & High. I set the HU to cancel Low frequencies above 80Hz. It actually made the bass sound more clear than previously, as it took some of the upper frequencies out. I had it previously set to 100Hz cut-off.

This leads me to believe the HU's crossover is better than the amp's crossover, because theoretically switching the HU from 100Hz cut-off to 80Hz cut-off should have made no audiable difference in my sub since the amp is already set to a lower cut-off(55Hz).