VO's Sub Enclosure Makeover Fr3ad In Progress..FI Q series 12" sub..RF power....
#42
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Originally Posted by StreetOC192
When playing the game of "slowing down sound waves", it's more a matter of how thick the layer is on the walls and how dense you install it rather than the amount you put in. If you have a raw enclosure that is close to 1.5 cu ft, I would try without polyfil as 350zspl says. you can always add it if the sub sounds 'flat'. if your enclosure is closer to 1 cu ft, then I would throw in a pound of polyfil (cheap insurance at $4 a bag at walmart).
#43
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Originally Posted by 350zspl
oc192 is right 2" might be just perfect , but 2.25 or 2.5 will definelty be good
Originally Posted by StreetOC192
Like my girl tells me, longer is better
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Originally Posted by Zrealsoon
Tough luck if you get a flat huh? Won't matter... you can just pound out the music while you wait for someone to find you a wheel!
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Originally Posted by Zrealsoon
Tough luck if you get a flat huh? Won't matter... you can just pound out the music while you wait for someone to find you a wheel!
#48
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Updates...
Saturday I made good progress. Woke up early and hit Home Depot again. Picked up some liquid nails and a sheet of 3/4" MDF. One item I couldn't find, which I will need soon, is a compass or device that can make 10 or 11 inch diametered circles. The biggest they had could only make 9" circles. When the sub arrives, it might have a template to trace, but I don't want to take a chance.
Can anyone tell me where to pick one up?
I took all my measurements down and made a sketch on paper, being careful and making sure to double check all my measurements. For the side panels, I just traced out the old thinner plates, cut out new ones from the MFD, then used liquid nails to bond them together. I placed heavy cinder blocks on them so the two pieces of wood would mash flush with eachother. They sat all night and cured...
Can anyone tell me where to pick one up?
I took all my measurements down and made a sketch on paper, being careful and making sure to double check all my measurements. For the side panels, I just traced out the old thinner plates, cut out new ones from the MFD, then used liquid nails to bond them together. I placed heavy cinder blocks on them so the two pieces of wood would mash flush with eachother. They sat all night and cured...
#49
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Here's a few test fit pics of just the side panels in place. You can see how much more the floor board will be elevated compared to the original baffle board...
#50
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Here's a few shots with the new top baffle board in place. I haven't cut the hole out because I need a large compass to trace the circle and I'm still waiting on the sub also. In the last pic you can see I've already made the measurements as to where the center of the new hole should be, in realation to the original baffle board. I just recieved an email from FI by the way. The sub was built and shipped today. It will arrive on Friday.....
#52
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Originally Posted by 350zspl
take pics along the way
Any idea where to pick up a compass large enough to create a 12" traced out circle?
#54
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Originally Posted by 350zspl
can you turn your T1 sub upside down remove gasket and use that as a template for 12"
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Originally Posted by vo7848
Will do.
Any idea where to pick up a compass large enough to create a 12" traced out circle?
Any idea where to pick up a compass large enough to create a 12" traced out circle?
1 Nail
1 piece of string exactly 6 inches in length.
1 pencil.
String ties to nail and pencil.
Nail in center of sub location, pencil circles around it?
edit: ah ya. ya allready thought that :-)
Crude but if your careful just what you need right?
Last edited by Zrealsoon; 01-07-2008 at 08:49 AM.
#56
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Originally Posted by Zrealsoon
Well..
1 Nail
1 piece of string exactly 6 inches in length.
1 pencil.
String ties to nail and pencil.
Nail in center of sub location, pencil circles around it?
Crude but if your careful just what you need right?
1 Nail
1 piece of string exactly 6 inches in length.
1 pencil.
String ties to nail and pencil.
Nail in center of sub location, pencil circles around it?
Crude but if your careful just what you need right?
#57
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Originally Posted by vo7848
I could, but was thinking about what you said about refurbishing it. Also, I'm not sure what the Fi sub is going to call for either. The mounting diameter might vary. What I was thinking about doing if push comes to shove, is tieing some dental floss to a pick and using that as a makeshift compass...
#58
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Originally Posted by 350zspl
FI 12" Q cut out 11.125"
The cut out for the T1 12" measured at 10 7/8" is I remember correctly. I'll leave that one as is, and just cut the correct side for the new top baffle....
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I'm sure you could find one of these at Home Depot or Lowes or somewhere else near you. This is of course if you are going to use a router to make your hole.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=365-250
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=365-250
#60
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Originally Posted by StreetOC192
I'm sure you could find one of these at Home Depot or Lowes or somewhere else near you. This is of course if you are going to use a router to make your hole.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=365-250
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=365-250
I was on the partsexpress site this morning ordering mounting screws. I found the t-nuts at Home Depot, but no 2 inch or larger screws. Maybe they were out of stock. I just ordered them from partsexpress. I ordered their "hurricane nuts" also. It's the new version of a T-nut, without the little spikes(part# 260-775). A bag of 50 was only a few bucks.
They also have a new sound dampening spray I was looking at. It comes in a aresol can. My entire rear and hatch, as well as front doors are already sound deadened. I'm not sure if the new sub is going to cause any new rattles or not. I'll wait and see before laying anymore sound dampening....