VO...

iTrader: (25)

Some of you guys may have read my recent thread, searching for an ideal sub compatible with my current enclosure and power:
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-video/319968-opinions-on-the-fosgate-p3-series-subwoofers.html

After 6 long pages of deliberation, research, and discussion with 350zspl & StreetOC192 it was narrowed down to 2 subs. The 2 subs were the FI Q series 12" or the Audio Pulse Epic 12"(formerly TC Sounds).
(Pics of subs in attachments below )

In the end I decided on the FI Q. It'll be powered by 800watts x 1 @ 4ohms from a Rockford Fosgate P8002 amp in a sealed enclosure.

Here's a few pics of what my current system looks like.

SuperBlack350z

iTrader: (59)

i like that sub. It sounds really good. wonder how your new set up will sound like.

btw, off topic, great write up on the ARC stuff. I didn't even see that thread until today. Good work. I enjoy all of your write ups.

VO...

iTrader: (25)

Here's what the sub looks like with the factory trunk mat in place and without it. As you can see, the enclosure is built into the rear spare tire well. I added thin side plates to create a new firm floor board on both sides of the enclosure. It's a quite simple and effective design. The inner airspace is exactly 1.25 cu ft + the displacement of the old RF T1 sub basket. The T1 sub called for 1.25 cu ft of usable air space, so that's what I built. I believe the basket displaced something like 0.30 cu ft, which would make the inner space 1.55 cu ft or so.

VO...

iTrader: (25)

VO...

iTrader: (25)

The side plates were necessary in order for the entire trunk floor board to be level. Without them the factory mat drooped on either side of the enclosure. To make the side plates sit level with the top baffle board of the enclosure, I glued tiny blocks of wood on both sides of the enclosure. This way I could rest the side plates on top of the blocks without having to really attach them. I did this so I could lift the side plates and have secret cubby holes for storing beer.

VO...

iTrader: (25)

Here's some inner shots of the enclosure. As you can see, there is no bottom to the box. I made 4 corners to the enclosure and bolted them straight to the car's metal bottom using "L" brackets. Everything is sealed air tight using liquid nails. The advantage of having the box attatched in this manner is that no thief can pull your enclosure out without destroying it. The inner bottom of the box is layered with sound dampening as well. I also cut the old spare tire mounting hub off with a Dremmel high speed cutter, then layered the sharp edges with silicone to avoid cuts ect...

VO...

iTrader: (25)

Here's a shot of how I'm supplying 12vdc to the antenna booster. You can also see how I get the speaker wire into the cubby hole where my amps are located. I simply drilled a large hole, then added a rubber grommet to it. This way the speaker cable won't get severed on the metal's sharp edges..

DustinZ33

iTrader: (19)

I like your sound. Nice setup

If you built the box at 1.25 cu ft and the speaker takes up .3 cu ft, then you would be left with .95 cu ft of usable space.

VO...

iTrader: (25)

Next comes the reason why I have to complete a makeover on the current enclosure..... "Mounting depth". The new driver requires 7" of mounting depth. My current set up only accomodates 6 3/4". After discussing this problem with 350zspl, we decided the best route would be to just add another top 3/4" baffle board to the existing enclosure. This will create 7 1/2" of mounting depth, clearing the 7" requirement for the FIQ12.

Sounds simple enough, not really. I will have to raise the entire floor board as well, so the factory mat doesn't appear to droop. I will most likely have to create a new floor board for the area on top of the speaker wire and power antenna fuse as well. That area worked fine without a new floor board on my old set up, but will most likely look akward when i raise the box baffle board another 3/4".

I took alittle trip to Home Depot last night and picked up a new cirrcular saw for my project. Can't wait to use it! I'll pick up all the hardware once I make more measurements and brainstorm alittle. The sub arrives on 1-10-08, so I'll keep you guys updated with pics and progress....

VO...

iTrader: (25)

I built the box with inner dimensions of 1.55 cu ft. Once the T1 sub was installed, it dropped the useable airspace to 1.25 cu ft.

VO...

iTrader: (25)

DustinZ33

iTrader: (19)

Werd. It just sounded confusing

DustinZ33

iTrader: (19)

Have you thought about just making a ring 3/4" tall that tapers down slightly. Then you really wouldn't be able to tell that it drops down.

I made a drawing to show you what I meant.

VO...

iTrader: (25)

Yes, thought about it and decided to just raise the baffle board itself. I want to keep the clean look of the factory mat mating directly & flush with the sub. The added baffle will also strengthen & stop any flex the top portion of the box may have.

DustinZ33

iTrader: (19)

I would probably look better and be better structurally. Just more work. I was trying to keep it simple.

VO...

iTrader: (25)

When I make the new side plates I'm going to trace out new 3/4 pieces off the original side plates, then glue them together so I can still use the little blocks on the side of the box to hold the side plates up. I want to keep the secret beer cubby holes.

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

Good work so far. I can't wait for the end result! Glad I could actually be a part of such an important decision.

DustinZ33

iTrader: (19)

definately keep the secret beer cubbies.

VO...

iTrader: (25)