car audio build
#1
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car audio build
So, this is what I plan to do inside my NISMO when I get back home:
1. Kenwood DNX 8120 Head Unit
2. Polk SR6500 6-3/4" Component System X 2 ( one set for doors and one
set for behind headrests)
3. Alpine PDX-2.150 150W x 2 Car Amplifier X2 (one for each set of SRs)
4. Alpine PDX-1.600 600W x 1 Car Amplifier
5. AudioControl EQS 6-Channel Equalizer / Line Driver
6. Polk Audio SR 104 DVC 10" DVC 4-ohm Component Subwoofer
7. Tsunami Hybrid Capacitor 40.0-farad with Blue LCD Meter
Can anyone see anything wrong with this set up? Does anyone have any experience with any of these products that can lend some useful reviews?
I do intend to expand the subwoofers in the future.
I would appreciate any feedback you all can give.
Thanks.
1. Kenwood DNX 8120 Head Unit
2. Polk SR6500 6-3/4" Component System X 2 ( one set for doors and one
set for behind headrests)
3. Alpine PDX-2.150 150W x 2 Car Amplifier X2 (one for each set of SRs)
4. Alpine PDX-1.600 600W x 1 Car Amplifier
5. AudioControl EQS 6-Channel Equalizer / Line Driver
6. Polk Audio SR 104 DVC 10" DVC 4-ohm Component Subwoofer
7. Tsunami Hybrid Capacitor 40.0-farad with Blue LCD Meter
Can anyone see anything wrong with this set up? Does anyone have any experience with any of these products that can lend some useful reviews?
I do intend to expand the subwoofers in the future.
I would appreciate any feedback you all can give.
Thanks.
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I would swap the cap for a Kinetik powercell, especially if your going to be expanding your subs in the future. Besides that invest in good quality wiring and you should be rockin!!
I would hold off on the rears though, if they have any power at all it will likely mess up your front stage because there only a few inches away from your ears. I had CDT rears and disconnected them
I would hold off on the rears though, if they have any power at all it will likely mess up your front stage because there only a few inches away from your ears. I had CDT rears and disconnected them
Last edited by Ichigo; 04-17-2008 at 04:25 PM.
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Originally Posted by Ichigo
I would swap the cap for a Kinetik powercell, especially if your going to be expanding your subs in the future. Besides that invest in good quality wiring and you should be rockin!!
I would hold off on the rears though, if they have any power at all it will likely mess up your front stage because there only a few inches away from your ears. I had CDT rears and disconnected them
I would hold off on the rears though, if they have any power at all it will likely mess up your front stage because there only a few inches away from your ears. I had CDT rears and disconnected them
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I hadn't thought of that! I suppose I could tone them down with the crossover/EQ maybe?
Is there anything else that I am missing that I am going to need or "should" incorporate in the system? I am looking to enter into the competion scene, but I don't want to completely loose my mind with interior modifications. I have even considered the kickpanel speaker boxes from Wicked CAS.... I can just imagine somone accidentally punching their foot into one..
Is there anything else that I am missing that I am going to need or "should" incorporate in the system? I am looking to enter into the competion scene, but I don't want to completely loose my mind with interior modifications. I have even considered the kickpanel speaker boxes from Wicked CAS.... I can just imagine somone accidentally punching their foot into one..
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You could tone down the rears with the audio control unit, but by the time you tone them down, why spend the sheckles on them. Not to mention two channels of amplifier to drive them.
I did wicked CAS door enclosures and made my own kicks. The front soundstage is amazing but I do have to remind people when entering the car to be mindful of the gear
I did wicked CAS door enclosures and made my own kicks. The front soundstage is amazing but I do have to remind people when entering the car to be mindful of the gear
Last edited by Ichigo; 04-17-2008 at 09:48 PM.
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As others have said, once you have the fronts installed and tuned, you will not need the rears. You could save the money that you would have spent on the rear comps and amp and invest in some of Bing's kicks for those nice Polks up front. The kicks will give you a better front stage than door pods (generally speaking). And for the competition arena, you will want as good of a front stage as you can get.
As for the cap........
Even if you were to run all 3 of those amps (all class D), I really don't see the need for a cap - let alone a 40 farad cap!!!! All amps combined are 1200 rms watts - again class D - and the rule of thumb is 1 farad per 1k rms watts. I am one of those guys who feels a cap has no place other than for show in car audio (not looking for an argument here). If your alternator is operating properly, you have a nice strong deep cycle battery, and you are using the proper awg power and ground wires, you should not need a cap for 1200 rms watts. But since you say you want to enter the competition arena, you may need that "wow" factor of a 40 farad cap with blue LED display. But even in competition, I feel your money would be better spent on a second battery and an isolator.
As for the cap........
Even if you were to run all 3 of those amps (all class D), I really don't see the need for a cap - let alone a 40 farad cap!!!! All amps combined are 1200 rms watts - again class D - and the rule of thumb is 1 farad per 1k rms watts. I am one of those guys who feels a cap has no place other than for show in car audio (not looking for an argument here). If your alternator is operating properly, you have a nice strong deep cycle battery, and you are using the proper awg power and ground wires, you should not need a cap for 1200 rms watts. But since you say you want to enter the competition arena, you may need that "wow" factor of a 40 farad cap with blue LED display. But even in competition, I feel your money would be better spent on a second battery and an isolator.
Last edited by StreetOC192; 04-18-2008 at 11:09 AM.
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I just looked at Bing's install job on Alex's car..... WOW!!!! This has given me soooo many ideas! Thank you for the "Bing" suggestion. Of course this changes my plans completely! This is a new hobby for me and I am loving the opinions and comments. I have already purchased the above listed components and I can't wait to get home to begin the install. I still have several more months before this happens, so please keep the ideas and suggestions coming. I've got nothing but time to design. Thanks again to everyone so far.
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Originally Posted by StreetOC192
I'd like to know what about the JL's makes you happier.
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Originally Posted by cbr900son
+1 not saying jl's are a bad amp. In fact i think highly of them but the $ to performance factor to me is kinda sucky imo
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o.k., did a lot of research on what people are doing for their installs. Definately going to go with kickpanels of some sort and maybe use the factory rear speaker space for something else. I could use some help with the little things for this install. Stuff that I am going to need that you don't think about untill you are in the middle of it. One quick question, providing I have everything I need.. how long (typically) would this kind of project take if it were all I did everyday till complete? Fabricating everything myself.
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i have a pdx 1.600 pushing one type r 12 in a to spec alpine box that i built and it sounds so good and so clean. good clean power, small, stays cool with no heating issues. also have an apline cda 9885 and alpine type r components and type s 6x9's in the rear. i love it and wouldnt trade it for anything. one thing to note, the system is in a 01 accord coupe and not a z but one is coming soon.
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