ChrisNelson

iTrader: (7)

The audio system will be comprised mostly of Kenwood Excelon components and Stinger Electronics accessories. The install is being done at a stereo shop that I work at and will be the shop demo vehicle.

The wiring is really scary looking in the first pictures, but when it's all finished the wiring will be all neat and nicely tucked away.



Started with zero gauge wiring to connect the new Stinger battery to the original battery. We'll have 2 batteries in the car now.

ChrisNelson

iTrader: (7)

We removed all of the trim panels on the rear half of the car inside to get access to all compartments.

ChrisNelson

iTrader: (7)

We're putting two amps in the back of the car, so the wiring will go from zero gauge to the second battery and then split into two sets of four gauge to the amps.

Between all of the 4 gauge, signal cables, nitrous wiring, nitrous main line, and speaker wire, we had to make a larger hole between the front and rear compartment:

ChrisNelson

iTrader: (7)

The nitrous bottle will be mounted in the trunk, but where we want it to go there is no suitable mounting spot, so we had to make one:

Notice the foam structure on the drivers side of the trunk:



We removed it and traced it onto 3/4" MDF wood. Then cut the foam board to reuse the "legs" portion of it. After that we mounted the new board onto the foam and now we have a strong mount plate:

ChrisNelson

iTrader: (7)

The first thing to do with the battery wiring was replace the factory ground at the battery. It was a 6 gauge, low-strand cable and we replaced it with the zero gauge oval cable with nice terminals.










In this following picture, you can see a tiny little 10 gauge (or smaller) wire going from the chassis to the engine block, so we added a 4 gauge wire from the battery ground to the motor.




Upgrading all of these grounds will help make all of the electrical systems on the car function better, including alternator output and many times upgrading grounds on your car will increase horsepower by a small amount.


Next comes the switch panel, and finishing up the battery wiring.

ChrisNelson

iTrader: (7)

Here is a pic of the components we used for the front speakers:



6.5" component woofer next to the 10" subwoofer. Both use dry carbon fiber cones.



Base for the amp rack:



Secondary battery and wiring is finished. Just got to make it look pretty:



Getting the right angle for the amplifiers:



Had to cut the old factory speakers out of the mounting brackets:





Amp rack done and everything wired:

ChrisNelson

iTrader: (7)

Had to drill through the Molex connectors in the doors then ran 12 gauge speaker wire from the amps into the doors for the new wiring of the components:




Removed the old factory tweeter, then modified the original tweeter location to accept the new one:





Then at around 2am we started on the sub box:

ChrisNelson

iTrader: (7)

That box is just temporary, I bought a custom fit fiberglass box on this forum to use instead.

ChrisNelson

iTrader: (7)

System Components:

KENWOOD EXCELON:
DNX9140 DVD/Nav/Bluetooth
KFC-172 6.5" Coaxials
KFC-1720P 6.5" Components
KFC-XW1022D x 2 10" Subwoofers
XR1S - Digital Mono 700w Amplifier
XR4S - Digital 4 Channel 120wx4 Amplifier

Stinger SPV44 Dry Cell Battery

ChrisNelson

iTrader: (7)

Considering a new main battery up front - any input on if anything is better then an Optima Yellowtop for this build?

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

Since you have a deep cycle dedicated and isolated for the audio system, it could be recommended that you use a starting battery for your main.

The battery that I prefer is the Exide Orbital.
http://links.exide.com/products/auto...t_orbital.html

adamtaylorpcb

iTrader: (7)

hate to res an old thread but what brand power wire is that

TomCat0197

Stinger Wire, XPRT series I believe.

ordinaryme

Where did u buy that sub box?? I think CAS doesn't offer that and that is just what i've been lookin for!

sintaxeror

iTrader: (3)

Looks awesome. Big fan of the build log with lots of pics =)