My Audio Setup...Slam and Save Space!
#26
there isnt another 8" sub that can handle the power of my amp like the L7. it wasnt my first choice, but i have been really hapy with it. try and find another 8" sub that has the surface area of a 10" and can handle ~400 rms watts and is still affordable.
i havnet been a huge kicker supporter since i killed a set of 4 compvr 12" in my sound comp jeep cherokee and seperated the cone from the voicecoil in the first five minutes of testing them out.
the L7 is a very beefy well built sub and it sounds great. it is much better than the first couple of square subs kicker came out with.
i havnet been a huge kicker supporter since i killed a set of 4 compvr 12" in my sound comp jeep cherokee and seperated the cone from the voicecoil in the first five minutes of testing them out.
the L7 is a very beefy well built sub and it sounds great. it is much better than the first couple of square subs kicker came out with.
#32
the way this box works with the separate trim panel, it would be very difficult to make it work with a 10" that is why i went with the L7 8" there just isnt enough room to have a 10" mounted in this style. my original idea was using a 10" but i had to scrap it. i went with the L7 because it had very good power handling capability for an 8" sub. i am running it at 4 ohms with 550 rms watts. it is plenty loud (and clean) for my needs in this vehicle. i have had systems over 2000 rms watts with four 12" subs built into a wall, that is just not what i wanted in this vehicle.
#33
i did consider this, but the silver is color matched to the car and really blends in well with all the other silver accents in the car like around the shifter, air vents, and door handles. you cant really see that by the pics, it just look like a silver blob in the middle of a sea of black, but trust me it looks great in person.
#34
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Won't be a problem for me either since I'm 5'6 also But great job on the installation man.
#36
this type will not work for a 10". if it would then i would have done it for a 10". a 10" is just to tall to make an outward facing box.
there would be too much fab work to do and it would have to be a permanent change to the trim panels behind the seat.
the main focus for me was to make a good looking enclosure that can be removed and put back to stock if needed. i will just need to buy a new cover for that space where the stock sub goes, if i ever want to make it stock.
there would be too much fab work to do and it would have to be a permanent change to the trim panels behind the seat.
the main focus for me was to make a good looking enclosure that can be removed and put back to stock if needed. i will just need to buy a new cover for that space where the stock sub goes, if i ever want to make it stock.
#37
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this type will not work for a 10". if it would then i would have done it for a 10". a 10" is just to tall to make an outward facing box.
there would be too much fab work to do and it would have to be a permanent change to the trim panels behind the seat.
the main focus for me was to make a good looking enclosure that can be removed and put back to stock if needed. i will just need to buy a new cover for that space where the stock sub goes, if i ever want to make it stock.
there would be too much fab work to do and it would have to be a permanent change to the trim panels behind the seat.
the main focus for me was to make a good looking enclosure that can be removed and put back to stock if needed. i will just need to buy a new cover for that space where the stock sub goes, if i ever want to make it stock.
#38
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optical illusion
Great job on the subwoofer enclosure. When I first looked at the picture it looked like the enclosure protruded 4 or 5 inches past the back panel with a side facing port. But when you said that you can lean the seat almost all the way back, I looked at your picture again. With the port facing forward it's as you say ~ 1 inch thicker. Cool picture