It was not the pico fuse. The power supply is probably shot. I took a DMM to the harness and it's all good. I looked at the service manual and besides the harness it doesn't look like there's a serviceable fuse inside besides the pico for the RCA which is unrelated here. I don't want to deal with the diagnosis process right now so I'm shelfing it. I just ordered a DEH-80PRS for $254.64 shipped here:
On that note, I'm be keeping a running balance of the cost of this install and I'll total it up at the end. I'll try to provide links to where I buy supplies and for what price.
I'd also like to give credit where credit is due. If (when) I learn something along the way by searching I'll link where I saw it.
A few updates on some preemptive problem solving:
I tested the fitment of the outer mounting and grill assembly for the Seas mids to the Wicked CAS door pods. The mids are 7.125" and the pods are 6.95". The rings are too big. This means I cannot recess the speakers into the pods. I can either set a spacer in and build up the sides with more fiberglass to route out a new hole or simply bond a spacer in there and use that as the mounting flange (which would offer more structural support than the current fiberglass alone). I'll decide soon.
Ring centered - this is how far I'd have to grind it out and why I'd have to add material.
Ring centered on pod - it sits nice and flush on top so filling the recession with a mounting ring would be a solution
I was checking out how you all are configuring the connection at the battery terminal. I kind of like what is going on here - it looks like he attached the stock fuse and terminal assembly to an aftermarket top post terminal:
I pulled the old Fusion sub out. Yep, Fry's Electronics special - I think this was their house brand. Please do not stone me, it came with the car. This sub seems to play one band. It might as well spit out the same tone at different volumes.
Can you see the brand?
Green means it's nuclear powered.
The old owners drilled into the metal and mounted these rings with a locking strap. This is what held the old sub down. It was effective and easy to remove.
Now I am fitting the Zenclosure. I've never installed one of these so I wanted to see exactly how this is done. It went in so smoothly. Now I can see how much room I have for amps. Not much. I definitely cannot fit all three amps in the spare tire area. One will have to go behind the seat for which I will need to rig an amp rack out of metal brackets and wood. This can be put off until the wire is actually run.
I wanted to see just for fun if everyone's measurements were correct and I needed that spacer I ordered. Sure enough - just ever so slightly off. Glad I got it.
I love this sub. In my opinion for the money it can't be beat. I'm not a basshead but in sq competitions getting to 135 db gets you all the points for that part of the scoring. I was able to hit 132+ with this same setup - single IDMAX in a sealed box. On the other side it's extraordinarily musical. It can hit very precise notes that you'd hear out of more sensitive subs. It's really great to listen to and the build quality is top notch. This is a V3 from before ID went out of business.
There are a few bits that still need to be ordered. I want to wait until all the wire gets here before I gut the interior. If I don't, I'll have to wait to put the interior back together because the wire goes down after the sound treatment. Once they get here I'll start.