S2K Engine Start Button install write-up
10-01-2006, 05:38 PM
#1
S2K Engine Start Button install write-up
First, the standerd disclaimer: These instructions are written as a helpful guide to anyone that wants to do this mod, but should not superceed common sense (read, if you screw up your car, it ain't my fault!). It is your responsibility to verify the connections outlined here in your own car (I did the install in an '03) before cutting/tapping any wires. And although I did not, it's probably not a bad idea to disconnect the battery and keep a watchful eye out for airbag wires during the install. I've tried to be as thorough as possible here and questions/comments/correections are always welcome.
Ok, here we go...
Part 1: What you need.
Parts:
-S2k start button
-30A, 4 pin auto relay
-wire
-interrupt toggle (otional)
Tools:
-wire connectors and/or soldering iron
-Phillips screwdriver
-wire cutter/stripper/crimper
-dremel
-electrical tape and/or heat shrink tubing
-Zip ties
Where to buy:
I've heard there are various Honda supply websites that you can get the button from for around $35. The relay can be had at your local auto parts stor and is probably only a few bucks. If you decide on using an interrupt switch to disable the key from starting the car at all, yet regain that functionality at the flip of a switch, you'll need to pick up one of those as well for around $3.
I was Lazy and opted to spend a little more and go with a complete pre-wired kit available from American Customs on Ebay for $71 shipped. Direct link to product:
GENUINE-S2000-START-BUTTON-KIT
This install write-up details the install of the KIT. If you want to buy your own parts and save a little money, you'll need more info. than what is detailed here, since I will not go into detailing all of the pre-wired portions of the kit that I didn't have to mess with. This includes what pins are used on the start button and where they connect to the relay. This is detailed in the kit instructions via photo and diagram but I don't want to reproduce that here without pernission.
The kit comes with everything pictured below (pre-wired relay, pre-wired genuine Honda S2K start button with connector, extra wire, connectors, zip ties, instructions and a vehicle specific wiring spreadsheet to help you identify the correct wires to tap/cut at your ignition harness):
The intructions included with the kit are general and you still have to figure out exactly what wire is what and get access to the harness to confirm what the vehicle specific wiring spreadsheet tells you, so to simplify, I used a page from the service manual and noted the wire locations, colors and connections on it:
I also took a pic of the button face and made a TEMPLATE to print and cut out so I could slap a little tape on the back and stick it around the interior to help me decide on the mounting location. Here is the location I chose (That's the template taped in place, not the real button):
Once you have chosen your location, it's on to the next step...
Part 2: Dash dissassebly
1. remove dead pedal (just pull it straight out).
2. pull up the trim and pull away a but of the weather stripping as shown below:
3. remove the plastic nut above where the dead pedal was by hand:
4. pull off kick panel/fuse box cover (pull it straight out toward the passenger side).
5. remove the screw to the left seen in the middle of this pic:
6. Remove the two screws attaching the OBDII port to the trim panel and the screw just under the hood release latch shown here:
7. Pull the lower dash panel forward (toward you) and down to unclip it.
8. Disconnect any connectors and the interior temp. probe (over to the right in the pic. Theres a screw you remove from the backside to release this) from the back of the panel. You may also choose to disconnect the hood release cable in order to completely remove the panel from the car, but I found it adequate to leave it in place and just **** the panel up toward the front of the footwell to keep it out of the way:
9. Remove the key cylinder trim ring (just pop it out):
10. Loosen the steering wheel tilt lock lever, then remove the four screws holding the lower steering column cover in place. (forgot to take a pic of this, but you can't miss it)
11. Remove the lower steering column cover (pull straight down).
You should now see this:
Here is a close-up of the ignition switch harness that you will be working on:
*note*: the following steps only need be followed if you are using the same mounting location I did.
12. Pop up the shifter surround trim piece (just grab the back of it at the shift boot and pull up; it pops right up):
13. carefully disconnect the ribbon cable from the back of the climate controls:
14. Next, if your shift **** comes off easily, remove it, then you can slip the trim piece free. I have one of those ***** held on by the glue of God, so I just removed the small screws holding the shift boot/trim ring from underneath to get my panel free:
On to the next phase...
Step 3: test fit and button mounting.
Here is a look at the back of the panel to scope it out for obstructions to the hole I'll be putting in it (there are none):
Here is a look inside the dash. Again, checking for obstructions. Hmm, that bar going accross there might be a problem:
To check, I taped the button to the back of the panel where it will be protruding and stuck it back in to check clearance.
Turns out that cross bar DOES obstruct the butt end of the button, so dremel to the rescue!
Now that test fit is complete, it's on to cut the hole for the button in the trim panel. I used a stiff piece of thin cardboard and an exacto knife to carve a template for the shape of the hole I'd need, then I simply taped it in place and started cutting with the dremel and a side cutting drill bit, following the template like a router:
Here's the completed hole:
Test fit of button:
Here's a side shot showing the gap on the sides due to the curved mounting surface. I knew I'd have this issue before I began and have a couple ideas of how to fill up the gaps and give it a more finished look, but that will come after my CF dash overlay install, when I'll have to cut a matching hole in that. I tried to bevel the edge of the hole a little to get the button to sit more flush, which turned out to be a mistake. You can see that the hole is now a little too big on that side (it's ok, though, as it can't be seen from the front or where you sit in the car). That too will be alieviated with the CF overlays as well, as I'll just stick to the original template, in which the button fit like a glove.
To secure the button to the panel, I just wrapped a few rubber bands around the back of it right up against the back of the panel, then put a zip tie around them. It doesn't budge. I may mount it with a more permanent adhesive in the future, but I knew I'd need to easily get it back out again fo rthe CF overlay install.
*sidebar*
I'd also like to take this time to point out another side project that could be done: button illumination. There is a small hole in the barrel of the button, though which yu can see the rear face of the button and see that the lettering is translucent. The hole is not quite big enough to accept an LED (or I would have gone ahead and done this), but could probably be opened up just enogh to let one in to light the button face. I may do this down the road.
The other modification I'm considering is painting the button trim ring to match the matte silver of the rest of the interior trim, though I'm a bit afraid the paint might wear unattractivley with button usage.
*end sidebar*
**EDIT to sidebar: turns out the button is already illuninated a subtle amber that is nicely complimentary to the stock dash lighting.
Ok, here we go...
Part 1: What you need.
Parts:
-S2k start button
-30A, 4 pin auto relay
-wire
-interrupt toggle (otional)
Tools:
-wire connectors and/or soldering iron
-Phillips screwdriver
-wire cutter/stripper/crimper
-dremel
-electrical tape and/or heat shrink tubing
-Zip ties
Where to buy:
I've heard there are various Honda supply websites that you can get the button from for around $35. The relay can be had at your local auto parts stor and is probably only a few bucks. If you decide on using an interrupt switch to disable the key from starting the car at all, yet regain that functionality at the flip of a switch, you'll need to pick up one of those as well for around $3.
I was Lazy and opted to spend a little more and go with a complete pre-wired kit available from American Customs on Ebay for $71 shipped. Direct link to product:
GENUINE-S2000-START-BUTTON-KIT
This install write-up details the install of the KIT. If you want to buy your own parts and save a little money, you'll need more info. than what is detailed here, since I will not go into detailing all of the pre-wired portions of the kit that I didn't have to mess with. This includes what pins are used on the start button and where they connect to the relay. This is detailed in the kit instructions via photo and diagram but I don't want to reproduce that here without pernission.
The kit comes with everything pictured below (pre-wired relay, pre-wired genuine Honda S2K start button with connector, extra wire, connectors, zip ties, instructions and a vehicle specific wiring spreadsheet to help you identify the correct wires to tap/cut at your ignition harness):
The intructions included with the kit are general and you still have to figure out exactly what wire is what and get access to the harness to confirm what the vehicle specific wiring spreadsheet tells you, so to simplify, I used a page from the service manual and noted the wire locations, colors and connections on it:
I also took a pic of the button face and made a TEMPLATE to print and cut out so I could slap a little tape on the back and stick it around the interior to help me decide on the mounting location. Here is the location I chose (That's the template taped in place, not the real button):
Once you have chosen your location, it's on to the next step...
Part 2: Dash dissassebly
1. remove dead pedal (just pull it straight out).
2. pull up the trim and pull away a but of the weather stripping as shown below:
3. remove the plastic nut above where the dead pedal was by hand:
4. pull off kick panel/fuse box cover (pull it straight out toward the passenger side).
5. remove the screw to the left seen in the middle of this pic:
6. Remove the two screws attaching the OBDII port to the trim panel and the screw just under the hood release latch shown here:
7. Pull the lower dash panel forward (toward you) and down to unclip it.
8. Disconnect any connectors and the interior temp. probe (over to the right in the pic. Theres a screw you remove from the backside to release this) from the back of the panel. You may also choose to disconnect the hood release cable in order to completely remove the panel from the car, but I found it adequate to leave it in place and just **** the panel up toward the front of the footwell to keep it out of the way:
9. Remove the key cylinder trim ring (just pop it out):
10. Loosen the steering wheel tilt lock lever, then remove the four screws holding the lower steering column cover in place. (forgot to take a pic of this, but you can't miss it)
11. Remove the lower steering column cover (pull straight down).
You should now see this:
Here is a close-up of the ignition switch harness that you will be working on:
*note*: the following steps only need be followed if you are using the same mounting location I did.
12. Pop up the shifter surround trim piece (just grab the back of it at the shift boot and pull up; it pops right up):
13. carefully disconnect the ribbon cable from the back of the climate controls:
14. Next, if your shift **** comes off easily, remove it, then you can slip the trim piece free. I have one of those ***** held on by the glue of God, so I just removed the small screws holding the shift boot/trim ring from underneath to get my panel free:
On to the next phase...
Step 3: test fit and button mounting.
Here is a look at the back of the panel to scope it out for obstructions to the hole I'll be putting in it (there are none):
Here is a look inside the dash. Again, checking for obstructions. Hmm, that bar going accross there might be a problem:
To check, I taped the button to the back of the panel where it will be protruding and stuck it back in to check clearance.
Turns out that cross bar DOES obstruct the butt end of the button, so dremel to the rescue!
Now that test fit is complete, it's on to cut the hole for the button in the trim panel. I used a stiff piece of thin cardboard and an exacto knife to carve a template for the shape of the hole I'd need, then I simply taped it in place and started cutting with the dremel and a side cutting drill bit, following the template like a router:
Here's the completed hole:
Test fit of button:
Here's a side shot showing the gap on the sides due to the curved mounting surface. I knew I'd have this issue before I began and have a couple ideas of how to fill up the gaps and give it a more finished look, but that will come after my CF dash overlay install, when I'll have to cut a matching hole in that. I tried to bevel the edge of the hole a little to get the button to sit more flush, which turned out to be a mistake. You can see that the hole is now a little too big on that side (it's ok, though, as it can't be seen from the front or where you sit in the car). That too will be alieviated with the CF overlays as well, as I'll just stick to the original template, in which the button fit like a glove.
To secure the button to the panel, I just wrapped a few rubber bands around the back of it right up against the back of the panel, then put a zip tie around them. It doesn't budge. I may mount it with a more permanent adhesive in the future, but I knew I'd need to easily get it back out again fo rthe CF overlay install.
*sidebar*
I'd also like to take this time to point out another side project that could be done: button illumination. There is a small hole in the barrel of the button, though which yu can see the rear face of the button and see that the lettering is translucent. The hole is not quite big enough to accept an LED (or I would have gone ahead and done this), but could probably be opened up just enogh to let one in to light the button face. I may do this down the road.
The other modification I'm considering is painting the button trim ring to match the matte silver of the rest of the interior trim, though I'm a bit afraid the paint might wear unattractivley with button usage.
*end sidebar*
**EDIT to sidebar: turns out the button is already illuninated a subtle amber that is nicely complimentary to the stock dash lighting.
Last edited by MustGoFastR; 10-03-2006 at 10:08 AM.
10-01-2006, 05:39 PM
#2
Step 4: Wiring and reassembly.
*you may want to disconnect the battery before continuing with the wiring. I didn't and had no issues, but it's safest to unhook it.
1. insert the pre-wired relay and wires as shown into the dash cavity (it's a good idea to put labels on the ends of the free wires going under the steering column so you know where they go when you get there):
2. The screw show here to the left is a perfect place to mount the relay:
Here is the relay mounted:
3. now you can plug in the switch, the climate controls, re-assemble the shifter and put the trim piece with button back in place.
4. Unplug the ignition switch harness. This view is how you look at it to identify what pin is what (as shown in the diagram at the beginning of the post):
The black/red wire and the white/red wires shown here are the one's you'll be working with:
5. Make your connections. Again, refer to the diagram I posted at the beginning of the thread.
The black wire from the relay (pin 86) goes to gound. Use the loop connector in the kit and ground it to the chassis of the car. I spliced in some of the extra wire and ran it to a one of the bolts holding the steering column cover against the firewall.
The two red wires from the relay that will tap into the ignition harness may need to be extended as well.
The wire coming from pi 87 of the relay will tap the black/red ignition wire at pin 3 of the ignition harness.
The wire from pin 30 of the relay is the starter wire. This connects to the white/red wire at pin 4 of the ignition harness in one of three ways: You can either:
A. tap the wire like you did the other one (this allows the car to start with either the key or the button).
B. Cut the wire and make the connection on the starter side and tape up the cut end leading to the connector. (this disables the key from starting the car and makes the button the only way to start it).
C. Cut the wire and wire it as in choice B, while also adding a wired two position (on/off) interrupt switch between the cut ends of the starter wire. This allows you to choose to disable/enable the key's ability to start the car at the flick of a switch.
I went with choice "C" and in the mess of the pic below are my final connections:
6. locate a mounting point for the interrupt switch (if applicable). I mounted mine with some double sided tape in a hidden, yet easily accessible location.
7. re-insert the ignition harness connector in the ignition switch, clean up your wiring, tape all connections and zip-tie everything in place.
8. Now re-install all of the trim panels in reverse order of removal.
9. Marvel at your work!
I'd rate the install a 4 on the scale of difficulty of 1-10. I took lots of breaks and was working on other things at times, so it took me alot longer than it should have to complete; you should be able to get it done in 2-3 hours if you know what you're doing and are prepared.
Last, but not least, the moment you've all been waiting for: The Test Video!
Yes, I fumbled for the key AND the button... I was trying to watch it all through the camera and was too hot and tired to re-take the video, so I'll live with the embarrassment.
Hope you all enjoyed the write-up and are inspired to do the mod yourself; I love it! It'll be even better once I get my CF dash overlays and clean up the gaps around the button for a really finished look! I'd deff. have to give this mod a solid 8 on the "cool Factor" chart!
*you may want to disconnect the battery before continuing with the wiring. I didn't and had no issues, but it's safest to unhook it.
1. insert the pre-wired relay and wires as shown into the dash cavity (it's a good idea to put labels on the ends of the free wires going under the steering column so you know where they go when you get there):
2. The screw show here to the left is a perfect place to mount the relay:
Here is the relay mounted:
3. now you can plug in the switch, the climate controls, re-assemble the shifter and put the trim piece with button back in place.
4. Unplug the ignition switch harness. This view is how you look at it to identify what pin is what (as shown in the diagram at the beginning of the post):
The black/red wire and the white/red wires shown here are the one's you'll be working with:
5. Make your connections. Again, refer to the diagram I posted at the beginning of the thread.
The black wire from the relay (pin 86) goes to gound. Use the loop connector in the kit and ground it to the chassis of the car. I spliced in some of the extra wire and ran it to a one of the bolts holding the steering column cover against the firewall.
The two red wires from the relay that will tap into the ignition harness may need to be extended as well.
The wire coming from pi 87 of the relay will tap the black/red ignition wire at pin 3 of the ignition harness.
The wire from pin 30 of the relay is the starter wire. This connects to the white/red wire at pin 4 of the ignition harness in one of three ways: You can either:
A. tap the wire like you did the other one (this allows the car to start with either the key or the button).
B. Cut the wire and make the connection on the starter side and tape up the cut end leading to the connector. (this disables the key from starting the car and makes the button the only way to start it).
C. Cut the wire and wire it as in choice B, while also adding a wired two position (on/off) interrupt switch between the cut ends of the starter wire. This allows you to choose to disable/enable the key's ability to start the car at the flick of a switch.
I went with choice "C" and in the mess of the pic below are my final connections:
6. locate a mounting point for the interrupt switch (if applicable). I mounted mine with some double sided tape in a hidden, yet easily accessible location.
7. re-insert the ignition harness connector in the ignition switch, clean up your wiring, tape all connections and zip-tie everything in place.
8. Now re-install all of the trim panels in reverse order of removal.
9. Marvel at your work!
I'd rate the install a 4 on the scale of difficulty of 1-10. I took lots of breaks and was working on other things at times, so it took me alot longer than it should have to complete; you should be able to get it done in 2-3 hours if you know what you're doing and are prepared.
Last, but not least, the moment you've all been waiting for: The Test Video!
Yes, I fumbled for the key AND the button... I was trying to watch it all through the camera and was too hot and tired to re-take the video, so I'll live with the embarrassment.
Hope you all enjoyed the write-up and are inspired to do the mod yourself; I love it! It'll be even better once I get my CF dash overlays and clean up the gaps around the button for a really finished look! I'd deff. have to give this mod a solid 8 on the "cool Factor" chart!
Last edited by MustGoFastR; 11-10-2006 at 02:31 PM.
10-01-2006, 05:56 PM
#3
Originally Posted by zand02max
So the key still has to go in, correct?
Last edited by MustGoFastR; 10-01-2006 at 05:59 PM.
10-01-2006, 05:57 PM
#4
Originally Posted by Bday350z
It looks like you took a tonnn of time to do this write-up thanks a lot and I'm sure very many people here will be EXTREMELY grateful.
Yeah, I hope so... my fingers are sore, my eyes are bleeding and my wife is PISSED at me for spending all weekend on my car!
Anything for my fellow forum menbers, though!
10-01-2006, 06:08 PM
#5
Originally Posted by driftk1d
OMG im gonna order the kit RIGHT NOW! cant wait to do it
10-02-2006, 05:31 PM
#6
Ha! Well, WTF do you know... I just got a pleasant surprise... I happened to Email Greg from American Customs and give him a link to this thread and a heads up that he'd probably be recieving some more orders... Well, I also happened to ask what the two unused pins were for on the start button and if they were for illumination. He replied that the two pins were just not used and that the illumination came from the ignition, which I must already know by now... HUH? 
So, realizing that I only tried the button during the day when I finished the install, I ran out to the dark garage and cranked the key to the "on" position and what do you know? The button is already illumintated! It's a subtle amber, dimmer than the rest of the dash lights, but pretty much matching in color; in other words... perfect! Boy, I'm glad that LED didn't fit in the hole or I'd really feel stupid right about now... lol. Well, one more plus to this mod!
So, realizing that I only tried the button during the day when I finished the install, I ran out to the dark garage and cranked the key to the "on" position and what do you know? The button is already illumintated! It's a subtle amber, dimmer than the rest of the dash lights, but pretty much matching in color; in other words... perfect! Boy, I'm glad that LED didn't fit in the hole or I'd really feel stupid right about now... lol. Well, one more plus to this mod!
Last edited by MustGoFastR; 10-02-2006 at 05:36 PM.
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10-03-2006, 01:25 PM
#9
Originally Posted by Voboy
coooooool, i'd choose a better mounting spot though but coool.
10-05-2006, 06:32 AM
#11
Originally Posted by davidf
How much for you to do mine.
) 
I still have the template I made to cut the hole. Now that I've done it once, I should be able to knock it out pretty quick.
Last edited by MustGoFastR; 10-05-2006 at 06:37 AM.
10-05-2006, 12:36 PM
#12
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Well I got my setup in the mail today. That button assembly is simply HUGE!!! It totally ruins where I wanted to put it since it is soooo long. I am thinking of getting one of those Ignited buttons instead since it is much more compact. The only downfall is that it doesn't look as nice. So at this point I'm torn. The place where you put your switch is about the only area of the car that has enough room for it to physically fit. I just didn't particularly want it there.
10-05-2006, 12:44 PM
#13
That's why I posted the pics of the button against a ruler; so people could take it's size into account. Where did you want to put it?
I've also seen people use buttons from the Ford GT, BMW Z8, etc., though I have no idea how large the assembly is on those and they are big $$$. IMO, the S2K button looks just as nice. The ignited ones look pretty cheap to me.
I've also seen people use buttons from the Ford GT, BMW Z8, etc., though I have no idea how large the assembly is on those and they are big $$$. IMO, the S2K button looks just as nice. The ignited ones look pretty cheap to me.
Last edited by MustGoFastR; 10-05-2006 at 12:47 PM.
10-05-2006, 05:00 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by MustGoFastR
Where? Don't think there's room between the park brake and ash tray...
10-05-2006, 06:09 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by MustGoFastR
Ah, ok; cool. Get pics when you can. The shifter doesn't get in the way with it located in the middle?
10-05-2006, 07:11 PM
#18
Originally Posted by THE TECH
Not that I am aware of. I haven't driven the car since I did the install, but with it being as close to flash as you got yours, I don't see any problem.
Oh, no, I just meant as far as ease of reaching for it...
