CRIDDA

iTrader: (10)

twist and tape,, hold the tape

fakejojo

iTrader: (1)

Haha I can't believe those cars were let out of the shop, then again maybe that's why CC is gone, hah!

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

All and all a really good write up.

You have overlooked one of the most important aspects of a functional installation - usage of a volt meter. Wire colors and locations will only get you so far - it is imperative to verify EVERY wire before you splice in to it. This is especially true in the ECU harness and in the kick panel area where there are many wires of the same color.

Bypassing the clutch switch is a TERRIBLE idea. It is there for a reason. Not only will this allow the car to remote start in gear (the parking brake won't hold in in position if left in 1st or R) but it will allow the car to start with the key in gear as well. This switch should only be bypassed when remote started so you went the right route, I was just shocked to see you actually even discussed it.

Speaking of remote starts on a manual transmission I would not have hooked the NSS up to the parking brake, I would have hooked it up to the OEM PNP switch that only goes to ground when the car is in N. It is in the same harness as the fuel injector wire and is a much much much safer alternative.

The hood pin should be hooked up (and diode isolated) - you mentioned it was optional. The hood pin stops you (or a mechanic) from accidentally remote starting the car while working under the hood. It is also an active zone of the security system so it provides many benefits. You are technically correct though - it will work without it connected it just won't be safe.

Very impressive to see you actually went in to the doors to get lock and unlock instead of just hacking up the BCM or using a data module. Now you can do remote window control! Very, very few shops go that extra mile because of the difficulty of getting the wires in to the doors.

Spiral wrap tubing does NOT look stock. Black tape or split loom tubing. Your installation looks neat and professional though, so no worries on that one!

Your advice on soldering and spot on. If you can't / don't want to solder pay someone who will. Your alarm installation is only as good as the install and soldering is the only way to make a permanent connection that will resist moisture, vibration, dirt, etc.

I love the pictures, detail, and the obvious amount of time you spent putting this together, very, very well done. If anyone reads this and has any doubts at all about being able to install something like this themselves DO NOT TRY IT. This DIY details a "perfect" installation where nothing went wrong. If you blow a single fuse you will wish you paid someone else to do the installation!

Have you had any issues with the D2D interface? I know many professionals don't even mess with it because of all the issues people have had with it. I, personally, have never used it but I love the idea behind it and I hope that one day it becomes the standard.

fakejojo

iTrader: (1)

True true, I just wanted to make sure my Installation was clean and not to have loose wires all over the place.

I agree with you on the bypassing of the clutch switch via a bolt/zip tie, which is why I did tap into the Manual Transmission Starter Wire. I just listed that "method" in case someone was too lazy to look!

I think I will also be changing my Parking Brake wire (Neutral Safety Wire) that you listed above. I will find the wire and list the color that my Service Manual states it is.

Anyways, thanks for the advice!

bonarsauce

iTrader: (16)

D2D is def the way to go when applicable. Surprised an xk07 was used for this, a DLPK will do locks trunk hatch and data key transponder good way to save some time and clean it up a bit. The install does look pretty clean though only thing I would consider changing would be the mounting of the brain, usually mount it to a pretty solid wire harness(s) under the dash so its not too touchy, the metal picks up a lot more vibration causing the shock sensor to go off like crazy.

BoomerZ33

iTrader: (23)

Great write up. This Viper system is amazing.

Raceinfiniti

iTrader: (8)

I had best buy install mine, works fine but I was sketchy letting best buy touch my car

VTS

iTrader: (1)

Nice writeup! I have a 5902 with all the extras sitting in my living room right now. I am about to go tear my car apart and install it all. Ill let you guys know how it went tonight

BlueZ33

iTrader: (19)

im thinking about buying this security system. is it worth buying the kit? the only reason i ask is because i dont really drive my car a whole lot, and when i do its only back and forth to base. i do drive my car other places but it doesnt sit anywhere for a long period of time

fakejojo

iTrader: (1)

I was using an XK05 along with my XK07 when I first installed this unit.

The XK05 Door Lock and Trunk unit allows control of the door locks and trunk by connecting it up to the data wire of the 350z and also the trunk release. I got rid of the XK05 because it is MUCH faster to open the door locks and trunk when letting the Viper 5901 Main unit control the door locks and trunk.

There is no delay and the system operate likes the stock remote control (speed wise)

fakejojo

iTrader: (1)

Hey man, have you removed any of your panels and looked at how Best Buy mounted and wired your Viper 5901?

I was just wondering the quality of work they did on vehicles?

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

You can also retain the windows down feature and add the window up feature by wiring the door locks direct - that alone is justification to drop the xk05.

fakejojo

iTrader: (1)

Really? Because I wired up my door locks directly, the windows will go down by holding the Viper Unlock button and vice versa with the lock button?

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

The windows can be controlled by extending the (-) triggers on the door lock/unlock wires. By default, no window control will be active, but you can program the "comfort closure" feature to automatically extend the triggers.

Many people use an AUX channel connected to the unlock wire (at the brain) and set the output to validity. This allows you to lower the windows by holding an aux button. I believe you can set the comfort closure to only extend the pulse on the lock wire - this allows you to raise the windows up by arming the car.

fakejojo

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man, I will be trying to wire that up to my auxiliary 2 channel!

VTS

iTrader: (1)

I will have to try that too. I just got mine done finally over the weekend...long hours at work caused me to have to drive my car around half torn apart for awhile. There were quite a few differences in the wiring colors and the bcm for my 03 z.

Had my brake light switch die while I was doing the wiring. I though it was something I had done but come to find out, the spring in it just died. That took me awhile to find since I started trying to link something I did to the death of my brake lights lol. Still a great writeup to follow along with. You just have to have your service manual handy if you have an 03 so you can get the proper wires hooked up.

I love being able to remote start my car from a super long ways off lol.

zaperroni

iTrader: (17)

wow, this has to be one of the most detailed and helpful DIY's on this site.
Too bad it wasnt here when i hired a buddy to install it

fakejojo

iTrader: (1)

Yea, the wires for the 2003 do differ a bit, thats why they even have a separate section on the 2003 350z for the DEI wiring guide

djarno

Nice write up! I'll be using this when doing my install.

fakejojo

iTrader: (1)

Good good! If anyone needs me, just PM me with your question and ill try to get back to you guys as soon as possible!