Diy easycar e7-b installation diagrams
11-03-2011, 12:44 AM
#1
Diy easycar e7-b installation diagrams
new information!!! for those who doesnt want to cut the key and leave it in the ignition, there is a solution for it. You can get the flash logic bypass!!!
PLEASE CHECK OUT THIS THREAD FOR MORE INFORMATION.
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-video...tallation.html
if you people have problem with these diagram or they cant follow them with references on diy for st800 i will do the write up. I thought it is a waste of time to the write up since they are the same thing.
FOR CAR THAT DOESNT NEED STARTERS WIRE TO BE CONNECTED. THIS IS CN1 WIRING FOR TOYOTA 4RUNNER 2010-2011
PLEASE CHECK OUT THIS THREAD FOR MORE INFORMATION.
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-video...tallation.html
if you people have problem with these diagram or they cant follow them with references on diy for st800 i will do the write up. I thought it is a waste of time to the write up since they are the same thing.
FOR CAR THAT DOESNT NEED STARTERS WIRE TO BE CONNECTED. THIS IS CN1 WIRING FOR TOYOTA 4RUNNER 2010-2011
Last edited by sssmasss; 03-14-2012 at 06:55 PM.
11-03-2011, 06:23 PM
#2
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advice for 2006 G35 coupe - 6MT
sssmasss,
Thanks for posting the E7-B diagrams. Any additional advice for installing in 2006 G35 6MT?
I've not studied your new diagram yet, but I'm planning to do so at length.
I do know, thanks to Truong, that under NO CIRCUMSTANCES should I cut the safety loop on my G35 6MT. Now I just have to find it so that I don't cut it.
One question that Truong suggested I look into is 'Where does the parking detection wire terminate (in the ECU or in the BCM)?'
You very well may already have addressed that question in your latest opus...but he raised it as one aspect he wasn't sure of. It's entirely possible that the question is specific to manual transmissions...and specific to the ST800. So you may not know...and/or it may not matter.
More generally though, I'd appreciate any additional thoughts and coaching. I've already downloaded the install guide and user manual from the easycar site, I've not actually seen one of these bad boys out of the box yet. So, I don't even "get" where the main unit goes in the vehicle, let alone where the ECU and BCM actually are...and how long the wires are that come with the stock harnesses to facilitate easy hook ups to all the various splice point all over the car.
I know I need to study the documentation more...along with the many postings and pics specific to the ST-800. I'll get on all that...and hopefully the clouds will part, and I'll start "getting it" just as my mail carrier is walking up the driveway with my E7-B delivery.
Thanks again for the fabulous diagrams
Thanks for posting the E7-B diagrams. Any additional advice for installing in 2006 G35 6MT?
I've not studied your new diagram yet, but I'm planning to do so at length.
I do know, thanks to Truong, that under NO CIRCUMSTANCES should I cut the safety loop on my G35 6MT. Now I just have to find it so that I don't cut it.
One question that Truong suggested I look into is 'Where does the parking detection wire terminate (in the ECU or in the BCM)?'
You very well may already have addressed that question in your latest opus...but he raised it as one aspect he wasn't sure of. It's entirely possible that the question is specific to manual transmissions...and specific to the ST800. So you may not know...and/or it may not matter.
More generally though, I'd appreciate any additional thoughts and coaching. I've already downloaded the install guide and user manual from the easycar site, I've not actually seen one of these bad boys out of the box yet. So, I don't even "get" where the main unit goes in the vehicle, let alone where the ECU and BCM actually are...and how long the wires are that come with the stock harnesses to facilitate easy hook ups to all the various splice point all over the car.
I know I need to study the documentation more...along with the many postings and pics specific to the ST-800. I'll get on all that...and hopefully the clouds will part, and I'll start "getting it" just as my mail carrier is walking up the driveway with my E7-B delivery.
Thanks again for the fabulous diagrams
Last edited by rruotolo; 11-04-2011 at 02:07 PM. Reason: brain fart
11-04-2011, 10:05 AM
#3
sssmasss,
Thanks for posting the E7-B diagrams. Any additional advice for installing in 2006 G35 6MT?
I've not studied your new diagram yet, but I'm planning to do so at length.
I do know, thanks to Truong, that under NO CIRCUMSTANCES should I cut the safety loop on my G35 6MT. Now I just have to find it so that I don't cut it.
One question that Truong suggested I look into is 'Where does the parking detection wire terminate (in the ECU or in the BCM)?'
You very well may already have addressed that question in your latest opus...but he raised it as one aspect he wasn't sure of. It's entirely possible that the question is specific to manual transmissions...and specific to the ST800. So you may not know...and/or it may not matter.
More generally though, I'd appreciate any additional thoughts and coaching. I've already downloaded the install guide and user manual from the easycar site, I've not actually seen one of these bad boys out of the box yet. So, I don't even "get" where the main unit goes in the vehicle, let alone where the ECU and BCM actually are...and how long the wires are that come with the stock harnesses to facilitate easy hook ups to all the various splice point all over the car.
He's been great to deal with. Very responsive.
Thanks for posting the E7-B diagrams. Any additional advice for installing in 2006 G35 6MT?
I've not studied your new diagram yet, but I'm planning to do so at length.
I do know, thanks to Truong, that under NO CIRCUMSTANCES should I cut the safety loop on my G35 6MT. Now I just have to find it so that I don't cut it.
One question that Truong suggested I look into is 'Where does the parking detection wire terminate (in the ECU or in the BCM)?'
You very well may already have addressed that question in your latest opus...but he raised it as one aspect he wasn't sure of. It's entirely possible that the question is specific to manual transmissions...and specific to the ST800. So you may not know...and/or it may not matter.
More generally though, I'd appreciate any additional thoughts and coaching. I've already downloaded the install guide and user manual from the easycar site, I've not actually seen one of these bad boys out of the box yet. So, I don't even "get" where the main unit goes in the vehicle, let alone where the ECU and BCM actually are...and how long the wires are that come with the stock harnesses to facilitate easy hook ups to all the various splice point all over the car.
He's been great to deal with. Very responsive.
you might want to get some extra wire so that you can extend them. the stock wire is enough but i like it longer so i can work easily.
Last edited by sssmasss; 11-04-2011 at 08:53 PM.
11-08-2011, 05:09 PM
#4
Oops! i forgot to put this instruction...
In order to register the remote control, you must first register your 4 digit pin. it is like st800.
here is how you do it.
pick 4 digits that you like.
Press start button twice or until it display ACC ON.
Go to your digital keypad and knock on your four digit pin number
if you did it right then the siren would sound off after you entered your 4 numbers.
Sorry. you must wire your door trigger. And your door must be open in order to do this. so open your door and leave it open. and then proceed to push your button twice
In order to register the remote control, you must first register your 4 digit pin. it is like st800.
here is how you do it.
pick 4 digits that you like.
Press start button twice or until it display ACC ON.
Go to your digital keypad and knock on your four digit pin number
if you did it right then the siren would sound off after you entered your 4 numbers.
Sorry. you must wire your door trigger. And your door must be open in order to do this. so open your door and leave it open. and then proceed to push your button twice
12-20-2011, 09:38 PM
#5
This guide is for your references only! If you have a different please do not wire exactly how i wired. Please DO NOT JUST COPY THE WAY I WIRED if you have a different car. Toyota might not require 2 starters wires together to start!!!!!!
03-05-2012, 12:15 PM
#6
do not follow my diagram exactly as it. you have to get your vehicle wiring diagram and check out the color code of your wires. My is an 06. If your make, model and year is different please get the vehicle diagram for your specific vehicle. I have many people asking me why it is not working when they follow the diagram exactly as it when their cars were not an 06 350z.
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03-25-2012, 09:04 PM
#9
you have to look up in your manual for trouble shooting bro. it is not like i dont want to tell you but i dont have the manual anymore. it would be your best bet to call your seller and ask him about it. If you have the manual and you can upload it here i will take a look at it and see if i can help you.
03-25-2012, 09:11 PM
#10
i need to know if you have an automatic or manual
did you cut the loop if it is an automatic. if it is a manual leave it alone
if it is a manual did you wire a clutch bypass
how did you wired the clutch bypass
where did you wire the parking detection wire?
it is best if you tell me how you wire everything.
did you cut the loop if it is an automatic. if it is a manual leave it alone
if it is a manual did you wire a clutch bypass
how did you wired the clutch bypass
where did you wire the parking detection wire?
it is best if you tell me how you wire everything.
08-10-2012, 02:35 PM
#11
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E7B uninstalled, as is
E7B for sale, cheap
See posting in Marketplace - Private Classifieds / Accessories
I gave up on installing it in my 2006 G35. Maybe you'll have better luck.
See posting in Marketplace - Private Classifieds / Accessories
I gave up on installing it in my 2006 G35. Maybe you'll have better luck.
Last edited by rruotolo; 08-11-2012 at 03:29 AM.
10-03-2012, 12:21 AM
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E8-B in 2003 350Z
Trying to install into a 2003 350Z. Having some trouble. My BCM is different than the 2006 but, the car manual says that the wiring is pretty much the same from 03 to 06. Here are the diagrams for what I have so far. The wires are the right color, but I don't know the pin-outs for the wire harnesses since I haven't found any pictures that show it. Also I have added a picture of my BCM.
10-07-2012, 05:53 AM
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Oops! i forgot to put this instruction.
In order to register the remote control, you must first register your 4 digit pin. it is like st800.
here is how you do it.
pick 4 digits that you like.
Press start button twice or until it display ACC ON.
Go to your digital keypad and knock on your four digit pin number
if you did it right then the siren would sound off after you entered your 4 numbers.
Sorry. you must wire your door trigger. And your door must be open in order to do this. so open your door and leave it open. and then proceed to push your button twice
In order to register the remote control, you must first register your 4 digit pin. it is like st800.
here is how you do it.
pick 4 digits that you like.
Press start button twice or until it display ACC ON.
Go to your digital keypad and knock on your four digit pin number
if you did it right then the siren would sound off after you entered your 4 numbers.
Sorry. you must wire your door trigger. And your door must be open in order to do this. so open your door and leave it open. and then proceed to push your button twice
10-28-2012, 10:27 AM
#14
I have been working on my install for a day now and feel like I am close but I cannot get the system to start the car or program a remote.
Here are my symptoms:
I have a manual 2003 350z with only 4 wires to the ignition switch: (no second starter wire)
I did not change any default jumper/dip switches yet.
update: I only see two dip switches one for noise and the second for high/low, I am using an ignition wire (from the engine bay) so I set the noise to off and the high/low to high.
I have not cut the manual/automatic wire so its still set to manual (I have a manual)
When I reconnect the neg battery terminal I see the led pad (stuck to the window) flash 0 a couple times (when I first started the alarm would go from 9-3 and then start to flash each number slowly).. now it just flashes 0 a few times and then flashes each number slowly.
update: Looking at the manual I see that 0 flashing every 10secs means the system is in Valet mode... I dont know how to get it out of that mode without the remote (which I cannot register)
when it flashes to 1 I have tried to knock the window, and the leds seem to respond and allow me to enter a 4 digit code (I tried the factor default 1-1-1-1) but the system doesn't seem to acknowledge the input, just does the flash of 0 and then goes through the numbers again.
If I look at the start button it is always on (blue - start) and when I press it once - acc lights up and I can hear my radio but no dash lights, if I press it again it goes to on and I see my dash lights and can hear the fuel pump prime but the starter does not crank.
I verified that my parking sense is correct (ground when e-brake on)
update: my e-brake wire goes to Ground when engaged (handle pulled up) the e7b manual indicates that this should be +12v could this be my problem? if so what wire/pin have people tapped to get this functionality?
I verified that my brake pedal (+12v when pressed) is correct (pressing brake while starting immediately gives 3 light error)
I have verified the door pin switch (when I first started the system was armed - LEDs 3-9 and when I opened the door it would go into alarm mode flashing all LEDs lights and horn (very annoying!))
If I press the start button for a while from ACC the horn and lights flash 3 times.
update: 3 flashes then 1 flash (according to the manual it means the system thinks that the car is 'on'.. this is not the case but I think is the main issue with my install), can someone who knows the system tell me why it may think the car is on? what wires could affect the systems ability to detect the 'on'ness o the car?
Things I have not done yet...
Have not cut the key sense wire, it was a little confusing as to which wires to attach for the e7b.
update: cut the black/red key sense wire and attached the grey (CN3) wire to the car side of the wire
Have not changed the default jumper/dip settings
update: I changed the settings from low to high on the dip left the noise setting to off
Have not been able to verify if the system is accepting my default pw 1-1-1-1
Have not been able to register a remote
Here are my symptoms:
I have a manual 2003 350z with only 4 wires to the ignition switch: (no second starter wire)
I did not change any default jumper/dip switches yet.
update: I only see two dip switches one for noise and the second for high/low, I am using an ignition wire (from the engine bay) so I set the noise to off and the high/low to high.
I have not cut the manual/automatic wire so its still set to manual (I have a manual)
When I reconnect the neg battery terminal I see the led pad (stuck to the window) flash 0 a couple times (when I first started the alarm would go from 9-3 and then start to flash each number slowly).. now it just flashes 0 a few times and then flashes each number slowly.
update: Looking at the manual I see that 0 flashing every 10secs means the system is in Valet mode... I dont know how to get it out of that mode without the remote (which I cannot register)
when it flashes to 1 I have tried to knock the window, and the leds seem to respond and allow me to enter a 4 digit code (I tried the factor default 1-1-1-1) but the system doesn't seem to acknowledge the input, just does the flash of 0 and then goes through the numbers again.
If I look at the start button it is always on (blue - start) and when I press it once - acc lights up and I can hear my radio but no dash lights, if I press it again it goes to on and I see my dash lights and can hear the fuel pump prime but the starter does not crank.
I verified that my parking sense is correct (ground when e-brake on)
update: my e-brake wire goes to Ground when engaged (handle pulled up) the e7b manual indicates that this should be +12v could this be my problem? if so what wire/pin have people tapped to get this functionality?
I verified that my brake pedal (+12v when pressed) is correct (pressing brake while starting immediately gives 3 light error)
I have verified the door pin switch (when I first started the system was armed - LEDs 3-9 and when I opened the door it would go into alarm mode flashing all LEDs lights and horn (very annoying!))
If I press the start button for a while from ACC the horn and lights flash 3 times.
update: 3 flashes then 1 flash (according to the manual it means the system thinks that the car is 'on'.. this is not the case but I think is the main issue with my install), can someone who knows the system tell me why it may think the car is on? what wires could affect the systems ability to detect the 'on'ness o the car?
Things I have not done yet...
Have not cut the key sense wire, it was a little confusing as to which wires to attach for the e7b.
update: cut the black/red key sense wire and attached the grey (CN3) wire to the car side of the wire
Have not changed the default jumper/dip settings
update: I changed the settings from low to high on the dip left the noise setting to off
Have not been able to verify if the system is accepting my default pw 1-1-1-1
Have not been able to register a remote
Last edited by jakyle; 10-29-2012 at 12:27 PM.
10-30-2012, 06:15 PM
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Hey Jaykyle, I have the exact same car as you (2003 350z manual tranny) and I think we are having opposite issues. I have the easycar e8-b, which to my understanding is the exact same thing as the e7. I'm thinking it must be in the manner we wired everything up. What do do say, we get each other on the phone and go over everything wire by wire and help each other out? I know this will really help me out.
This is my issue. When I hit the START button once, the ACC comes on. When i hit it again, I hear the relay but nothing happens. I have troubleshot it down to the starter kill, because when i disconnect that skinny purple CN9 wire, and press the START button for a second time, i get IGN, but still the car won't start. I'm guessing the BRAIN is somehow preventing it from starting because everytime I push the START button, I hear a 'relay like' click inside the BRAIN. So, if you're ok with us talking over the phone, give me your number and best times to call. I'm in England because im in the US military, but if you let me know when to call, I will calculate the time difference and call, (i get free overseas calling). Ohhh also let me know what State you're in, so i can calculate time difference.
Also, if anyone else has successfully installed this system, and doesn't mind taking some time out of their day to go over the wire connections, I would really appreciate it. Please send me your number, State and best time to call. Thanks again
This is my issue. When I hit the START button once, the ACC comes on. When i hit it again, I hear the relay but nothing happens. I have troubleshot it down to the starter kill, because when i disconnect that skinny purple CN9 wire, and press the START button for a second time, i get IGN, but still the car won't start. I'm guessing the BRAIN is somehow preventing it from starting because everytime I push the START button, I hear a 'relay like' click inside the BRAIN. So, if you're ok with us talking over the phone, give me your number and best times to call. I'm in England because im in the US military, but if you let me know when to call, I will calculate the time difference and call, (i get free overseas calling). Ohhh also let me know what State you're in, so i can calculate time difference.
Also, if anyone else has successfully installed this system, and doesn't mind taking some time out of their day to go over the wire connections, I would really appreciate it. Please send me your number, State and best time to call. Thanks again
Last edited by cho2soccer; 10-30-2012 at 06:18 PM.
10-31-2012, 06:25 AM
#16
you guys please check your wires. especially the cn1 conector.
after you wired up everything you have to do two things
1. register your pin. choose your 4 digits pin of your own and register it.
2 register your remote control
then start your car. make sure the key is in the ignition and turn to "ON" or "ACC" i forgot which one. i am busied lately. And i sold my Z so i am not sure if i will be back to check on you guys to help. sorry
after you wired up everything you have to do two things
1. register your pin. choose your 4 digits pin of your own and register it.
2 register your remote control
then start your car. make sure the key is in the ignition and turn to "ON" or "ACC" i forgot which one. i am busied lately. And i sold my Z so i am not sure if i will be back to check on you guys to help. sorry
10-31-2012, 07:50 AM
#17
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Apparently my system was stuck in VALET MODE and i didn't even know it. Once I got it out of valet mode, everything worked. Now the starter kill doesn't obstuct the car from going to ON anymore. But now the issue im having is that the car won't start.
So, after I press the button once, it goes to ACC. Then i press again, it goes to IGN. On the third press without applying brake pedal, it should shut down, or, on the third press with applying brake pedal it should start. But this is what happens, without appyling brake on the third press, nothing happens, absolutely nothing. and if i apply brake pedal on the third press, it shuts down. It's all messed up.
Another problem I'm having is the door lock/unlock wiring. I took the door panel off and took the inner door panel off as well to gain access to the connector with red/black/light blue wires. I couldn't find a red wire with black strip like the diagram from sssmass shows, but i taped into the red and light blue wire. With everything connected, the lock feature works but the unlock does not. I have check and rechecked connections but still no change. I know that the 350Z requires a double pulse to the UNLOCK side inorder to actually unlock the doors. Can someone tell me how they made this work. Thanks
Something to note, my original BCM was damaged, I have replaced with another functioning BCM. So now, as to be expected, my ORIGINAL NISSAN KEYLESS ENTRY FOB does not work but I doubt i need it to work. I'm wondering if this is going to affect the immobilizer from working properly. Any thoughts?
So, after I press the button once, it goes to ACC. Then i press again, it goes to IGN. On the third press without applying brake pedal, it should shut down, or, on the third press with applying brake pedal it should start. But this is what happens, without appyling brake on the third press, nothing happens, absolutely nothing. and if i apply brake pedal on the third press, it shuts down. It's all messed up.
Another problem I'm having is the door lock/unlock wiring. I took the door panel off and took the inner door panel off as well to gain access to the connector with red/black/light blue wires. I couldn't find a red wire with black strip like the diagram from sssmass shows, but i taped into the red and light blue wire. With everything connected, the lock feature works but the unlock does not. I have check and rechecked connections but still no change. I know that the 350Z requires a double pulse to the UNLOCK side inorder to actually unlock the doors. Can someone tell me how they made this work. Thanks
Something to note, my original BCM was damaged, I have replaced with another functioning BCM. So now, as to be expected, my ORIGINAL NISSAN KEYLESS ENTRY FOB does not work but I doubt i need it to work. I'm wondering if this is going to affect the immobilizer from working properly. Any thoughts?
Last edited by cho2soccer; 10-31-2012 at 04:59 PM.
11-05-2012, 11:01 AM
#18
cho2soccer
Sorry for the late response, I had not checked this forum for quite some time electing to try to get some support from easycar... that didn't go so well. Two emails (via their website www.easycaralarm.com and no responses) Actually the most supportive person thus far has been sssmasss (thank-you sss).
About your double pulse issue - you have it exactly right, you need to send a double pulse from your e8b (which is not the default setting) I am not sure how you go about programming that on yours but its a soft setting that needs to be programmed into your e8b via the settings menu, I have not gotten that far with my install but I can add that I had another remote starter (ultrastarter.com) and had to setup double pulse. That alarm had the ability to set the duration of the double pulse which was key... with a too short double pulse the unlock would just lock the doors. With the pulse set too long it would roll down the windows.
FWIW I had the ultrastarter working, it could start the car, open the gas cap (via trunk opener) flash the lights, honk the horn, lock/unlock doors. So I didn't think I would run into issues with this install.
About your door pulses I'd say two things.
1. get the e8b to send a double pulse (very hard to measure with a multi-meter) I just did trial an error.
2. get the pulse duration to be what our cars need - I read the required duration somewhere and will try to post it here.
With respect to wiring up the starter lets absolutely exchange contact info, my number is 917 340 1140 (nine one sever three four O one one four O - incase the number version gets stripped). I live in NYC so am 5.5hrs behind you time-wise (I think). Best time for me to work on the car is on the weekend, I can be online at that time from the garage if that helps, maybe we can exchange some pictures for wiring colours and knowledge of connection purposes.
Please feel free to call any time so that we can at least get coordinated, we can setup a session from there.
Good luck with your install.. seems like you are very close.
Sorry for the late response, I had not checked this forum for quite some time electing to try to get some support from easycar... that didn't go so well. Two emails (via their website www.easycaralarm.com and no responses) Actually the most supportive person thus far has been sssmasss (thank-you sss).
About your double pulse issue - you have it exactly right, you need to send a double pulse from your e8b (which is not the default setting) I am not sure how you go about programming that on yours but its a soft setting that needs to be programmed into your e8b via the settings menu, I have not gotten that far with my install but I can add that I had another remote starter (ultrastarter.com) and had to setup double pulse. That alarm had the ability to set the duration of the double pulse which was key... with a too short double pulse the unlock would just lock the doors. With the pulse set too long it would roll down the windows.
FWIW I had the ultrastarter working, it could start the car, open the gas cap (via trunk opener) flash the lights, honk the horn, lock/unlock doors. So I didn't think I would run into issues with this install.
About your door pulses I'd say two things.
1. get the e8b to send a double pulse (very hard to measure with a multi-meter) I just did trial an error.
2. get the pulse duration to be what our cars need - I read the required duration somewhere and will try to post it here.
With respect to wiring up the starter lets absolutely exchange contact info, my number is 917 340 1140 (nine one sever three four O one one four O - incase the number version gets stripped). I live in NYC so am 5.5hrs behind you time-wise (I think). Best time for me to work on the car is on the weekend, I can be online at that time from the garage if that helps, maybe we can exchange some pictures for wiring colours and knowledge of connection purposes.
Please feel free to call any time so that we can at least get coordinated, we can setup a session from there.
Good luck with your install.. seems like you are very close.
11-07-2012, 01:24 PM
#19
I thought I had seen a pulse duration diagram in the service manual but it seems I was looking at a page that showed the pulse duration needed to autoroll the windows... Below is an extract from my other alarm system install manual which worked well using a .8sec pulse for lock and two .8 pulses for unlock.
DOOR LOCK PULSE DURATION: Some European vehicles, such as Mercedes-Benz and Audi, require longer lock and unlock pulses to operate the vacuum pump. Programming the system to provide 3.5 second pulses will accommodate door lock interface in these vehicles. The default setting is 0.8 second door lock pulses.
DOOR LOCK PULSE DURATION: Some European vehicles, such as Mercedes-Benz and Audi, require longer lock and unlock pulses to operate the vacuum pump. Programming the system to provide 3.5 second pulses will accommodate door lock interface in these vehicles. The default setting is 0.8 second door lock pulses.
11-12-2012, 10:50 AM
#20
Update:
With cho2soccer's help (via the phone all the way from the U.K.) I was able to get my system working! And I would have to say it's a pretty awesome piece of kit. The main problem that I had with my install was the wiring of CN1, the instruction manual is NOT accurate, you must download the latest copy from their website for updated information. I would have to say though that without cho2soccer's help I would not have been able to get this install to work.. There are a lot of wires, a lot of confusing versions of documentation and the system provides very little installer feedback until you have everything just right (including configuration). It's the last point that really the key, you MUST
a. Get the basic ignition (cn1) bypass and serveral sensing wires connected correctly.
b. Get the defaul password entered (1-1-1-1) using the knock pad
c. Ensure that you are not in any restricted modes (Valet mode)
If anyone is having issues with their install please post here, there are some helpful people watching the thread now and we should be able to walk you through a process that works.
With cho2soccer's help (via the phone all the way from the U.K.) I was able to get my system working! And I would have to say it's a pretty awesome piece of kit. The main problem that I had with my install was the wiring of CN1, the instruction manual is NOT accurate, you must download the latest copy from their website for updated information. I would have to say though that without cho2soccer's help I would not have been able to get this install to work.. There are a lot of wires, a lot of confusing versions of documentation and the system provides very little installer feedback until you have everything just right (including configuration). It's the last point that really the key, you MUST
a. Get the basic ignition (cn1) bypass and serveral sensing wires connected correctly.
b. Get the defaul password entered (1-1-1-1) using the knock pad
c. Ensure that you are not in any restricted modes (Valet mode)
If anyone is having issues with their install please post here, there are some helpful people watching the thread now and we should be able to walk you through a process that works.