Instaled: US Spec Air Duct & JWT Popcharger
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Instaled: US Spec Air Duct & JWT Popcharger
Along with the diffusers which I can't figure out how to fit, I also ordered a US-Spec air duct and a JWT Popcharger.
The US-Spec duct is noticably larger, but as people have previously said its an absolute b1tch to get into the car.
Removal of the existing duct was rough, but with a bit of force we made it pop out. Putting the new one in involved a little scratching of the lip of the bumper (not noticable unless you're specifically looking) and we had to use a screwdriver to wedge the damned thing into the gap. The foam surround got ripped up trying to get it in, but its still attached to the duct so here's hoping that it still does whatever its meant to do.
The Popcharger install itself was easy enough. Unclip the wire running to the AFM, loosen the clamp, and unscrew the screw holding the airbox to the car.
One benefit of a kit is that everything just bolts on. The adapter plate lines up perfectly with the AFM (which, as an aside, is actually slightly smaller than a Z32 item internally). The only thing that wasn't perfect was the support brace, which we had to bend a few degrees to screw back into the OEM position.
The heat shield isn't bad either. There's a screw-on clamp to secure it at the bottom, and you drill two holes into your duct to secure it vertically.
There are heavy rubber seals on the top and rear edges, which will hopefully keep most of the hot air from the engine bay out.
It all fits into the OEM position perfectly, and looks like it came from the factory (especially since I haven't stuck any brand-name stickers on it).
Driving:
You're not going to notice a 6hp increase in power, but some people say their engine revs out better. I didn't really notice that much, but what I did notice was how much louder it was when you got into it.
The engine takes a harsher, more aggressive note when you rev it out. It sounds great, but its probably going to attract the wrong kind of attention as well as the right kind. I'm not sure if it was worth buying over a panel filter, but the fact that it and the HiTech exhaust is louder means that I can hear what the engine's doing, which is always of use when driving hard.
One thing I've noticed is a hissing sound. If I change the throttle positioning while the engine's not under load (like when I heel toe, or sometimes when I lift) there's this hissing sound. I'm not sure if there's a hole in the filter, or a gap somewhere, or if its just meant to do that, but its not a sound I was expecting.
The US-Spec duct is noticably larger, but as people have previously said its an absolute b1tch to get into the car.
Removal of the existing duct was rough, but with a bit of force we made it pop out. Putting the new one in involved a little scratching of the lip of the bumper (not noticable unless you're specifically looking) and we had to use a screwdriver to wedge the damned thing into the gap. The foam surround got ripped up trying to get it in, but its still attached to the duct so here's hoping that it still does whatever its meant to do.
The Popcharger install itself was easy enough. Unclip the wire running to the AFM, loosen the clamp, and unscrew the screw holding the airbox to the car.
One benefit of a kit is that everything just bolts on. The adapter plate lines up perfectly with the AFM (which, as an aside, is actually slightly smaller than a Z32 item internally). The only thing that wasn't perfect was the support brace, which we had to bend a few degrees to screw back into the OEM position.
The heat shield isn't bad either. There's a screw-on clamp to secure it at the bottom, and you drill two holes into your duct to secure it vertically.
There are heavy rubber seals on the top and rear edges, which will hopefully keep most of the hot air from the engine bay out.
It all fits into the OEM position perfectly, and looks like it came from the factory (especially since I haven't stuck any brand-name stickers on it).
Driving:
You're not going to notice a 6hp increase in power, but some people say their engine revs out better. I didn't really notice that much, but what I did notice was how much louder it was when you got into it.
The engine takes a harsher, more aggressive note when you rev it out. It sounds great, but its probably going to attract the wrong kind of attention as well as the right kind. I'm not sure if it was worth buying over a panel filter, but the fact that it and the HiTech exhaust is louder means that I can hear what the engine's doing, which is always of use when driving hard.
One thing I've noticed is a hissing sound. If I change the throttle positioning while the engine's not under load (like when I heel toe, or sometimes when I lift) there's this hissing sound. I'm not sure if there's a hole in the filter, or a gap somewhere, or if its just meant to do that, but its not a sound I was expecting.
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This style of filter certainly looks cool.
I liek my cars to be quite and civilised when at low rpms and come alive with strong induction and exhaust sounds at full throttle. I'd like to hear it under load, if you're going on the cruise on Sat.
I liek my cars to be quite and civilised when at low rpms and come alive with strong induction and exhaust sounds at full throttle. I'd like to hear it under load, if you're going on the cruise on Sat.
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KY350, you can hear mine, i don't have an exhaust, so all you'll be able to hear is the popcharger. When crusing it's quiet, but once you step on it, it comes alive.
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Originally posted by nuff
I think the hissing (whistle) is from the maf sensor, since the air has to go around it and it's so close to the filter.
I think the hissing (whistle) is from the maf sensor, since the air has to go around it and it's so close to the filter.
I don't have a problem with the sound; just the potential that its a symptom of a breach in the filtration of outside air into my engine.
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Originally posted by KY350
I liek my cars to be quite and civilised when at low rpms and come alive with strong induction and exhaust sounds at full throttle. I'd like to hear it under load, if you're going on the cruise on Sat.
I liek my cars to be quite and civilised when at low rpms and come alive with strong induction and exhaust sounds at full throttle. I'd like to hear it under load, if you're going on the cruise on Sat.
The only downside to the HT, that I've noticed, is that its droney at around 1900-2100RPM (which is 60km/hr in 5th gear, unfortunately).
I'll be at the meet. You can have a listen both with drive-by and in-cabin if you want. We'll just find some secluded section of Putty where I can go full noise in a few gears....
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hey scathing have you / are you planning on making something ... to redirect the air a little better from the grille up to the pod
the zed induction doenst seem that great/ accurate to me..
doesnt seem to attract that much air how it is atm
the zed induction doenst seem that great/ accurate to me..
doesnt seem to attract that much air how it is atm
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WhiteZed, the stock intake is quiet good. It's very hard to improve on it. If you want to get more air into the stock air box or popcharger you can always get a Mine's air scoop or INGS N-Spec front bumper (or something else along those lines).
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yeah i have seen the scoops you can get
they would be perfect i would think
but i was thinking some tubing or something from the grille up to the factory scoop, that goes into the POD would be a good idea, if you didnt want to cut your front bumper
they would be perfect i would think
but i was thinking some tubing or something from the grille up to the factory scoop, that goes into the POD would be a good idea, if you didnt want to cut your front bumper
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Funny you should metion that WhiteZed. Too bad I deleted the pic I was going to post talking about it...
Eventually I want to get a bumper cutout (like the Ings, Stillen, etc bumpers) and use a fine mesh over the inside to stop the larger stones etc from getting into the induction area (and risk having a heavy stone punch a hole in the filter). I don't know if I'd line it right up against the air duct, or have it offset so if anything large does get through the mesh it won't fly straight into the filter.
I was considering getting the K&N Typhoon kit, which has a mandrel-bent metal tube that runs cold air induction from the front air dam, through the air duct, and into a K&N pod filter (which is in its own carbon-fibre look airbox).
That would probably have been a better design, both from an airflow and a legality sense, but it cost twice as much and paying AUD$500 for an induction kit seemed a bit excessive for me.
Anyway, back to my original reply..
If you have a look at our front air dam, its not actually completely open. There are plastic bits blocking air flow on either side. The one on the driver's side is in front of some hosing for some kind of fluid cooler, but the passenger side is just blocking flow to the radiator.
What I was planning on doing is cutting the passenger side blockage out (I knew there was a reason why I don't delete any photo I take; it'd make it quite clear what I'm talking about) and running a short length of black flex pipe up to exit just under the intake duct.
I don't want to follow the Typhoon path and use piping to route the air through the air duct because I'm worried about channeling too much water straight into my air filter if it rains (or if I hit large puddles). The flex pipe will have a single 90 degree bend and terminate in line with the black plastic below the intake.
While there's not really anywhere else in that entire front bumper section for the air to go, I'd rather have the air just exit up, and any water to mist out before getting sucked into the engine, rather than having some kind of ram-air system forcing water at my air filter.
I might lose a little ram-air effect, but I also lower the risk of having water clog the filter.
Eventually I want to get a bumper cutout (like the Ings, Stillen, etc bumpers) and use a fine mesh over the inside to stop the larger stones etc from getting into the induction area (and risk having a heavy stone punch a hole in the filter). I don't know if I'd line it right up against the air duct, or have it offset so if anything large does get through the mesh it won't fly straight into the filter.
I was considering getting the K&N Typhoon kit, which has a mandrel-bent metal tube that runs cold air induction from the front air dam, through the air duct, and into a K&N pod filter (which is in its own carbon-fibre look airbox).
That would probably have been a better design, both from an airflow and a legality sense, but it cost twice as much and paying AUD$500 for an induction kit seemed a bit excessive for me.
Anyway, back to my original reply..
If you have a look at our front air dam, its not actually completely open. There are plastic bits blocking air flow on either side. The one on the driver's side is in front of some hosing for some kind of fluid cooler, but the passenger side is just blocking flow to the radiator.
What I was planning on doing is cutting the passenger side blockage out (I knew there was a reason why I don't delete any photo I take; it'd make it quite clear what I'm talking about) and running a short length of black flex pipe up to exit just under the intake duct.
I don't want to follow the Typhoon path and use piping to route the air through the air duct because I'm worried about channeling too much water straight into my air filter if it rains (or if I hit large puddles). The flex pipe will have a single 90 degree bend and terminate in line with the black plastic below the intake.
While there's not really anywhere else in that entire front bumper section for the air to go, I'd rather have the air just exit up, and any water to mist out before getting sucked into the engine, rather than having some kind of ram-air system forcing water at my air filter.
I might lose a little ram-air effect, but I also lower the risk of having water clog the filter.
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that will be a good idea cutting that thing out on the passanger side, and doing that
im trying to think of some way to not attract water
i dont think there is a way, unless do what you suggest
at least it should give a bit more cold air to your filter than it does atm
im trying to think of some way to not attract water
i dont think there is a way, unless do what you suggest
at least it should give a bit more cold air to your filter than it does atm
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If you get a Injen intake the filter sits in behind the grille, it also has an option (not sure what it's called) that will bypass the filter if it gets too wet.
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