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They are steel. I don't remember the gauge or grade, but my welder just used his TIG and it took all of 30 seconds a piece.
I did clean and paint the brackets before re-installing just as a rust-preventative measure. Any muffler shop could do this for you for about $20 if you hand them the brackets.
Current mods:
-silverstone with red blood splashes from runaway sander and nail gun incident
-9" wheels; slightly imbalanced
-side lights; work 90% of the time
future mods:
nismo lds stickers
fuzzy dice
__________________ NASA TTC 350Z - Team Z Car Garage : NASA TTB champion 2006; TTC 2nd place 2007; 2007 Instructor of the year.
I just got mine welded at the local muffler shop for $25. I'm good to go.
I put some gorilla glue for good measure when I did the original install so I had to take the whole bumper bar to the shop since it was stuck to the mounts. Gorilla glue is some good stuff, I was practically standing on the bumper to try to get it off but it still wouldn't budge.
I'll be putting it to use next weekend.
__________________ NASA TTC 350Z - Team Z Car Garage : NASA TTB champion 2006; TTC 2nd place 2007; 2007 Instructor of the year.
I haven't started another GB, but have had a few ppl express interest.
I lost money on the last set. Another GB would have to be around $425. Who's still interested?
How much does your PWC and trailer weigh? The current design is built to pull no more than 550 lbs. total weight & 75 lbs. tongue weight.
I've had another person ask for a higher weight tow package. I've got a design with a 2K lb. capacity, but it weighs more and the cost would be closer to $650-$700.
I'd pay either amount if this worked on the G sedan. I believe you could sell quite a bit on g35driver.com
I need to get my hands on a G35 for a few minutes to take measurements. If you know anyone in the Hampton Roads area that wants to swing by, I'd love to check it out.
I added one of those flat-4 magnetic sleeves to the end of the control module. Now I slide it up so the magnet sticks to the receiver plate, then tuck the cables up behind the bumper cover. It's not dropped out in the track events I've been to.
Sorry to add to the long thread but I finally had the opportunity to use the hitch. It worked as advertised. No creaks or rattles. Its great being able to carry so much to the track. Tires, tools, sun canopy, cooler, chairs. I was able to keep my car entirely empty so there was very little to unload once at the track. The Z has so much torque you don't even realize it's there. My mileage when down from 24 to 20mpg freeway. I wonder if nismo makes a trailer spoiler.
I like the idea about using a magnet to hold the connector when not in use. I have been keeping the pin in the hitch and hanging the connector from that which works equally as well.
I still can't signal left though. It blinks once then shuts off, so I just toggle the left blinker and manually flash it. Improvisation..
__________________ NASA TTC 350Z - Team Z Car Garage : NASA TTB champion 2006; TTC 2nd place 2007; 2007 Instructor of the year.
I still can't signal left though. It blinks once then shuts off, so I just toggle the left blinker and manually flash it. Improvisation..
Dave,
Try cleaning the contacts on both the conversion module and the flat-4 connector on the trailer.
Glad you hear you got to use your trailer. I agree it's good to bring all the tools & tires to the paddock. I'm still working on the ideal way to pack everything in my toolbox, so I can get to everything without unpacking the whole mess.
OK, I talked with my welder and powdercoater, did some math and here's the scoop.
I need 10 confirmed orders for the original hitch at $429 each to break even. I'll be able to to a bit better on shipping than the last batch.
I'm still trying to get my hands on a G35 to take measurements to see if the hitch will work. My neighbor is planning on getting one, but I don't think it will be for a few more months.
I'd also like to build a prototype heavier duty hitch (bolts directly to the frame) for those who've asked for something to pull ATVs and PWCs. That first prototype will cost around $550 to build and test. I'd need two orders to make the effort work out.
