mhoward1

I just thought I would start a good FAQ for those who want to do their first Track Day/HPDE. I this time I want to keep drivng techniques and coaching out of here and leave that up to the HPDE event instuctors that a person attends.

About the Event
What is an HPDE
Types of Schools
what to bring
Flags

About You:
What to expect at your first Event.
What will I learn
Attitude and how to learn
common courtesy and proper track etiquette
Driving Position
What things can I practice every day?
What is Heel and Toe?

About your Car:
What to Check on your car
What Modifications do I need to do to do a school?
Car Modifications
Information about rules and Specs on Seats and harness bars
About Traction
Good Brake Resources

Good General Information and indexes:
Terminology
Terminology - pg 2
Terminology - pg 3
Terminology - pg 4
Terminology - pg 5
Terminology - pg 6
Terminology - pg 7


Credits:
Glen Mead
Stacy King
Mark Vitacco
Marty Howard
Robert Bouknight
Steve Coleman
Dave Nichols

mhoward1

High Performance Driver Education (HPDE) refers to driving schools held on dedicated race tracks designed to teach drivers proper high speed driving techniques. HPDE events are held by various automobile enthusiasts' clubs at some of the most renowned road-course tracks around the world. Students are grouped according to their ability and experience, with "Novice Group" students being the least experienced,"Intermediate Group" being more experienced and "Advanced Group" drivers being the most experienced and capable of driving the racetrack without a ride-along instructor. Mandatory classroom instruction contributes to the overall learning experience and allows peer-group discussions of on-track performance and analysis of track characteristics. A day at one of these events will usually include one or two classroom sessions and three 30 minute track sessions. Many events also include a chance to drive your car on a skid pad.

HPDE events are not racing events. Cars on-track operate under strict "rules of engagement" which minimize the likelihood of dangerous encounters with other cars. Passing among participants is allowed only within defined "passing zones", and then only with clear hand signals and instructor confirmation. Because of this, car to car incidents are very rare. Most off-track excursions end with no damage other than a slightly bruised ego. It is important to realize that there is always the risk of doing serious damage to your car or yourself. If you damage track equipment such as guard rails or walls, you will likely be charged for the repairs.

HPDE events encourage participants to drive within their ability and improve their car-control skills with each event. Instructors and staff evaluate each student's progress throughout the weekend, and make recommendations on the student's advancement through successively higher driver groups.

mhoward1

I just thought I would start a good FAQ for those who want to do their first Track Day/HPDE. Here's a good list that we send out to new registrants. A lot of these items arfe optional o don't apply but this a good overall checklist.

Getting there and getting in
Registration materials
Maps / Driving directions
Hotel Reservations
Cell phone
Helmet
GPS

Clothing & Personal
JacketS
nacks
Cap
Water / drinks
Sunglasses
Cooler
Suntan lotion
Cash, Credit Cards, License
Lawnchair
Pens and Notebook
First Aid Kit / bandages
Towels
Camera, film
Blank checks
Umbrella
Rain suit
Lock and cable
Extra shoes (if raining)

Supplies and Disposables
Garbage bags
Duct tape
Brake Fluid
Anti-Seize, Locktite, WD-40
Motor Oil
Towels
Window Cleaner
Work gloves, latex gloves
Paper Towels
Bungee cords
Tie Wraps
Fire extinguisher
Headlight tape
Transmission fluid

Tools
Flashlight
Funnel
Sockets, ratchet, extensions
Fluke Multimeter
Test wires / leads
Tire Pressure Gauge
Shock adjusting ****
Tarps
Floor Jack
Torque Wrench
Old Blanket
Breaker Bar + appropriate sized lug sockets socket
Wheel Chocks
Knife
12 Volt Air Pump

Parts
Race Tires (if you have them)
Spare Nuts and Bolts
Spare Lug Bolts
Repair Manual
Electrical Connectors and Tape


Track Event list and optional
Registration materials
Technical Inspection Forms
Helmet Release
Spare Brake Pads
Spare Rotors
Extra Brake Fluid, 1 or 2 Liters
Brake Cleaner
Brake bleed hose and wrench (7 mm)
Spare Brake lines
Jackstands
Long pants
Long-sleeve shirt
Battery Operated Drill
Drill Bits
C Clamps
Jumper Cables

mhoward1

Before your first session of the day you should do the following things at a minimum:
a.Check your seat belts, especially at attachment points
b.Check clutch fluid
c.Clean windshield
d.Check tire pressures
e.Remove all loose articles from the car
f.Remove the spare
g.Remove all floor mats
h.Empty all ash trays


Before each run, you should do the following things at a minimum:
a.Check the torque of the lug nuts
b.Check tires for wear and possible inflation pressure adjustment
c.Check brake fluid
d.Check oil fluid
e.Check coolant level (in the over flow container, never remove a radiator cap on a hot motor)
f.Check gas level. You'd be surprised how many sessions are cut short because of any empty tank.
g.Check brake pads and rotors.

mhoward1

Anti-sway bar - A bar or tube that runs from one side of the car to the other that controls the rate of weight transfer when cornering. They are sometimes adjustable, and can have a significant affect on how a car handles.

Apex -This is the point of the turn where you are closest to the inside edge of the turn. The racing apex of a corner is NOT the geometric apex of the corner.

Balance - Usually referring to the balance between understeer and oversteer, or the balance between front and back braking.

Blend line - A line painted on the track starting at pit exit and extending down the track. Cars leaving the pits are not allowed to cross the line. This keeps cars entering the track from crossing out in to traffic until they have had a chance to get up to speed.

Both feet in - Any time you lose control of the car, push the brake and the clutch.
Brake fade - Brake fade is caused by the brakes getting too hot. A reduction in even with good pedal pressure indicates the pads are too hot and that you need to lighten up on your braking If the brake pedal gets soft or mushy, it is usually caused by the brake fluid getting so hot it is boiling. The air bubbles caused by the boiling make pedal feel soft.

Brake point - The place in a brake zone where you apply the brakes.

Braking zone - A section of the track where you are braking to make the next turn. The turn in usually marks the end of the braking zone. Tracks put brake markers out for corners that require significant braking.

Camber - Measured in degrees, how much a tire tilts toward the center line of the car. Negative camber is when the top of the tire leans in towards the center line of the car. Track cars are set up to have negative camber to increase their cornering ability.

Chauffeur braking - Firm initial brake pressure held at a constant pressure with a gradual release of brake pressure at the end of the braking zone so that the weight balance of the car is not disturbed. The primary goal is to not increase brake pressure at the end of a brake zone.

Chicane - A series of left and right turns used to reduce high speeds.

Corner station - See 'Flag station'.

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mhoward1

Corner weight The amount of weight on each tire.

Corner worker - Person manning a flag station.

Differential - A large gear assembly that takes power from one direction and converts it 90 degrees.

Diffuser - Bodywork underneath the rear of the car that is used to generate down force.

Dirty air - The aerodynamics of a car at speed can produce turbulent air behind the car. This turbulent air can reduce the amount of downforce generated by aerodynamics of the following car, resulting in understeer. It can also reduce the amount of air following through the radiator of the following car, producing over heating.

Downforce - Modern track cars use wings, spoilers, splitters, diffusers and body shape to push the car downwards. This gives the car more traction and stability. Adding downforce usually results in a slower top speed.
DraftingCars moving at speed develop a low pressure area behind them. Driving in to this low pressure area will help your car go faster because it reduces the air pressure on the front of your car. This is not something that is recommended for HPDE events.

Down shift - Shifting from a higher gear (5thth), to a lower gear (4thth).
Drive trainThe clutch, transmission, drive shaft, differential and axle or half-shafts. Everything that it takes to get the power from the motor to the rear wheels.

Dry line - The optimal path around a course under dry conditions.

Early - A turn was started early, or an apex was made early. Too much turning was done in the beginning of the turn. It is usually safer to be late than early.

Entry - See Turn In.

Eyes up - A reminder to not stare at the surface directly in front of the car. You need to keep you eyes up and looking as far ahead as you can see pavement.

Flag station - At strategic points around the track will be small protected structures that are manned by corner workers. The corner workers have a selection of flags that they use to give you important information about track events taking place in front of you. See the section about flags later in this document.

Flat spot - If you lock up your brakes or slide your car sideways you can develop a flat spot on your tires. This can result in vibration and reduced grip.
FreeAnother version of loose (oversteer). If someone needs to 'free' their car up some, they want it to have less understeer.

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mhoward1

Gator - A narrow strip of concrete about 2 feet wide and 10 to 30 feet long usually found along the edge of the track at the apex and track out, and sometimes found at turn in. Gators usually are ribbed to discourage drivers from driving on them, although in many cases drivers find that driving over the gator gives them better times.

Grid - An area beside the track where cars are lined up for each track session. Sometimes Pit Row is used.

Hair pin - A very sharp turn, usually around 180 degrees.

HANS device - Safety device to help support your head during a collision.

Half-shaft - An axle like rod or tube that connects the differential/transmission to the drive wheels on cars with independent drive suspension.

Heat cycle - A heat cycle occurs each time a tires heats up from use on the track and then cools. Tires tend to become harder and lose some of their traction as they accumulate heat cycles. R compound tires can lose much of their grip even if they have tread left due to heat cycling.

Heel and toe - The art of being able to brake, rev the motor and down shift all at one time. This is done to save time, reduce clutch wear, and keep the car in better balance.

HPDE - High Performance Driver Education.

Hydroplaning - When a cars speed is great enough and the water on the road surface is deep enough that the water lifts the tire from the road surface, much like a water skier skis on water. This results in an almost total loss of traction and the car loses its ability to brake, corner and accelerate.
InfieldThe area inside the track.

Late - A turn was started late and/or an Apex was made late. Not enough turning was done at the beginning of the turn. It is usually safer to be late than early.

Left foot braking - Braking with your left foot. Usually done when only a light brush is needed and your right foot is still on the gas.

Lift - Reduce foot pressure on the gas peddle.

Line - The path that should be driven around a race course for optimum performance. There are usually multiple lines for a corner to suit different driving styles and different cars.

Loose - The car turns more than you asked it too. A car that is extremely loose will spin easily.

Marbles - Dirt, gravel, and or bits of rubber (from tire wear) found on an off-line part of the track. Marbles reduce traction. Be careful if you need to drive off line, as you may need to go slower than you think.

Neutral - The car is set up to not exhibit understeer or oversteer.

Terminology - pg 1 Terminology - pg 2 Terminology - pg 3 Terminology - pg 4 Terminology - pg 5 Terminology - pg 6 Terminology - pg 7

mhoward1

Off - An off is when you lose control of the car and leave the track at a time and place you didn't mean to. Most HPDE events require you to pit if spin or have all four wheels off the track.

Off camber - The track slopes away from the turn, reducing the amount of traction that is available.

Off line - Driving around a corner not on the preferred line.

Open

Open the wheel - Turn the wheel away from the turn slightly. If your car is pushing and you turn in to the turn too much, you can end up with the front tires exceeding the 10° slip angle that represents maximum corning traction. By opening the wheel up just a little, you can reduce the slip angle and get more traction to complete the turn.

Oversteer - See Loose.

Paddock - A large open space near the entry to the track where cars are parked and worked on between track sessions.

Passing zone - Most events restrict passing to designated parts of the track, usually straights. Advanced groups may also be allowed to pass in corners. In almost all cases, permission from the car you are about to pass is need (see Point By).

Pinch - A pinched turn is one where the the driver did not use the full with of the road on exit.

Pit entrance - Where you exit the paddock and enter the pits.

Pit in - The place where you exit the track and enter pit row.

Pit out - The place where you exit the pits and enter the track.

Pit Lane - A wide paved lane used to get from the pits to the track and from the track to the pits. Commonly used to line the cars up at the start of a session.

Pit row - See Pit Lane.

Pits - The part of pit lane used to service cars during a race.

Point by - When a car is ready for the car behind it to pass, the driver will give a 'Point By' signal to let the trailing car know which side to pass on. For a pass the left, the driver will extend his arm out the window and point to the left. For a pass to the right, the driver will extend their arm out the window and point over the roof of the car to the right. If the event has restrictions about which side a pass must be made on, if a driver gives a point by to the wrong side it is not a valid point by and the trailing driver must not pass.

Pushing - You are turning the wheel, and the car is not turning as much as you are asking it to. Street cars are designed to push as that makes the car easier to control and safer.

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mhoward1

R compound - Tires that were manufactured using a rubber compound suitable for racing purposes but still have a DOT stamp. R compound tires are made with a softer rubber with higher heat handling ability. Although these tires provide more grip on a try surface, they usually have little or no tread and can be unsafe in wet conditions. Although when new these tires are street legal they may quickly become illegal for street use if they wear to the point that they do not have street legal tread left. They can also have issues with temperatures below 40° Fahrenheit.

Race line - The optimal path around a course for racing.

Rear end - See differential.

Rebound - An adjustment for adjustable shock absorbers that changes the rate at which a shock absorber will extend. Rebound adjustments can also affect how the weight of the car shifts around during braking, acceleration and cornering.

Red line - The maximum RPM your motor is designed to operate at.

Rev match - When shifting, revving the motor to be at the correct RPM for the selected gear. This will eliminate tire squeal and jerking of the car during a down shift. It also reduces wear on your clutch.

Roll bar - Heavy gauge steel tubing that goes up the side of the car to the rear of the driver's door, crosses to the other side of the car and then goes down beside the passenger's door. It will have a cross brace, and two other braces towards the rear of the car. Its purpose is to help protect the driver in a side impact or a roll over. Although a roll bar adds protection, it provides significantly less protection than a roll cage. There are strict rules about how to build a legal roll bar.

Roll cage - A roll bar on steroids. It includes much more steel and bracing. The driver is in a steel cage that protects from impact from any angle. There are very strict rules defined by the racing organizations that govern how roll cages are built.

Rotate - Turn. To get the car to rotate is to get it to turn. It usually implies in a balanced way, in that there is not too much understeer or too much oversteer.

Run group - Drivers at HPDE events are assigned to different groups depending on their ability and experience. There are normally 3 to 5 run groups.

School line - The driving line taught at an HPDE. The school line is usually based on the racing line but with consideration for a lower driver skill level, a higher concern for safety, and no concern for making it difficult for another car to pass you. Higher risk areas of the course may be instructed using a slightly later apex or turn in point.

Terminology - pg 1 Terminology - pg 2 Terminology - pg 3 Terminology - pg 4 Terminology - pg 5 Terminology - pg 6 Terminology - pg 7

mhoward1

Short shift - Up shifting to a higher gear at a lower RPM then would normally be done for optimal acceleration. This can save wear and tear on the engine. It also is done to lower the torque sent to the rear wheels during acceleration and throttle lift to reduce the likelihood that the rear tires will lose traction.

Skid pad - A large, flat concrete area usual around 250 feet in diameter with a circle of about 200 feet painted in the middle. The object is to drive your car around the circle to explore the limits of traction in a controlled environment. Skid pads have sprinkler systems, so they can be run wet or dry.

Slip Angle - The difference between the angle the tires are turned, and the angle the car is turning. At slow speeds and moderate turns, the slip angle will be 0, because the tires have enough traction to turn the car the requested amount. At higher speeds and sharper turns, the tires reach their limit of being able to turn the car, and they start to slide (push) across the pavement. Tires usually do best with a slip angle up to around 10%, after that they start scrubbing speed off by the friction caused by pushing the tires across the pavement. At the extreme, the tires can be turned as sharp as possible and the car is going straight. At that point all of the tire's potential traction is used in a braking, not turning.

Snap oversteer - See 'Trailing throttle oversteer'

Splitter - A flat extension of the front bottom of a car that keeps the high pressure air from the front of the car from going underneath the car. This helps produce downforce on the front of the car.

Spoiler - Spoilers are generally found on the rear of cars and are used to disrupt the airflow as it passes over the vehicle. The goal is to reduce drag.

Squirrelly - See unsettled.

Standing flag - A flag that is being displayed, but not waved or being used to point to a particular car. The most common standing flag is a standing yellow, used to indicate there is no passing.

Standing water - Water that has enough depth to possibly cause hydroplaning. The water may be flowing or not.

Sway bar - See 'Anti-sway bar'

Threshold braking - Braking as late as possible using near maximum braking effort until the end of the braking zone.

Throttle induced oversteer - Accelerating too hard while in a turn can exceed the rear tires ability to grip the track and result in oversteer, and in sever cases, a spin.

Tight - See Pushing

Timing tower - Usually the tallest building at the course located on or near the straight close to the finish line.

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mhoward1

Traction circle - A plotting of the G forces during a track session. See 'The Line' section of this document for more information.

Track in - see Turn In.

Track left - Refers to the left side of the track. Often used as a command to move the car to the left side of the track.

Track out - This is the point where you have exited the turn. This is usually on the outside edge of the track. Also referred to as exit. The steering wheel will be straight.

Track right - Refers to the right side of the track. Often used as a command to move the car to the right side of the track

Trail braking - The act of light braking in to a corner to help transfer some weight to the front wheels to gain traction to turn.

Trailing throttle oversteer - If the throttle is lifted in a turn, a transfer of weight occurs from the rear of the car to the front of the car that can cause the car to oversteer, and in severe cases, spin.

Turn in - The point at which you start to turn the car to enter the corner. This is usually on the outside edge of the turn. Also referred to as Track In or Entry.

Understeer - See Pushing.

Unsettled - Under heavy braking, the rear of the car will move slightly left and right. Usually the car continues in a relatively straight line. Most of the time this is not a significant problem. It can often be fixed by using a less aggressive rear pad, adjusting the brake bias, or adding more downforce to the rear.

Up shifting - Shifting from a lower gear (4thth) to a higher gear (5thth).
Weight transferAs a car turns, accelerates or brakes the weight of the car is shifted. Learning how to take advantage of weight transfer will help you be a better driver.

Wet line - The optimal path around a course under wet conditions.

Wing - An airfoil used to produce downforce.

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mhoward1

Race tracks have flag stations strategically located around the track to give the corner workers in the flag station a clear view of the track. The job of the flag station workers (corner workers) is to signal drivers of the track condition or events that they may not be able to see. The flag stations should be considered as important as stop lights. In the same way that you have to look at a stop light before you enter an intersection, you must look at the flag station to make sure the track is clear ahead. Being able to spot each flag station and any flag it may be displaying is a very important safety skill that you must master quickly. The faster you go, the more dependent you are on the flag stations. Many tracks have one or more blind sections that drivers can not see in advance well enough to react to events taking place on that part of the track. The flag stations act as your spotter to the blind sections and can give you information about what to expect down the track. Missing a flag at a flag station endangers you and the cars and people around you. You must look at every flag station as you approach it.

NOTES:
1.The more significant the event, the more vigorously the flag will be waved.
2.A flag rolled up and pointed at a car is intended for that car, not the other cars.
3.Any time you see any flag displayed other than green or blue, it is a good idea to wave your hand to signal the driver(s) behind you to check the flags.

The green flag signals a clear track. Normal passing is allowed.

The yellow flag means caution. Passing is not allowed except to pass a disabled car, stopped car, or a car that is off the track. The more animated the flag is waved, the more you need to slow down and prepare to maneuver or stop to avoid an obstacle. The flag is in effect until you a different flag is displayed.

The red and yellow striped flag indicates there is something on or near the track and that you should proceed cautiously at a reduced speed. If fluid is on the track, some tracks will rock the flag from side to side. The flag may be removed after a couple of laps even if the problem exists. This is so they can re-show it for a new problem.

The Red Flag. You must come to a full stop in sight of a flag station. Do not make a panic stop. Check your mirrors to make sure it is safe to brake and wave your hand to make sure any driver behind you understands a flag was displayed. Pull to the right edge of the track and remain in your car with helmet and seatbelt on. Shut your car off only if you need to. Wait until a black flag is displayed and proceed to the pits.

The white flag signals that a slower car is on the track. Be prepared to maneuver to avoid the slower traffic. It could be a car with mechanical problems, or a safety vehicle.

A standing black flag is used to signal all drivers to reduce speed and proceed to pit lane. No passing is allowed. If the flag is rolled and is being pointed at a specific car, the flag is meant for that car only. It is best to reduce speed and be careful, as the black flag could have been caused by a safety issue with your car.

The ‘Meatball’ flag indicates a mechanical problem or hazard with your car. Proceed to pit lane. It is best to reduce speed and be careful, as there may be a safety issue with your car.

The ‘Passing’ flag is a warning to check your mirrors and let any faster cars pass as soon as possible. Failure to let others pass may lead to a black flag and a forced visit to the pits

The checkered flag means the session is over. Reduce speed and pit. Slow down enough to be able to go easy on your brakes so they have a chance to cool before you park your car.

mhoward1

1.The right mirror should be adjusted so you can just see the right side of your car if your head is in the middle of the car.

2.The left mirror should be adjusted so you can just see the left side of the car if your head (helmet off) is up against the driver’s window.

3.The center mirror should be adjusted to look straight behind the car.

4.Have your seat positioned so that your knees can’t lock straight if you brace for a crash. If your knees are locked during a front end collision it can cause serious damage to your hips.

5.Your hands should be able to drape over the top of the steering wheel, with your wrists resting on the top of the steering wheel.

6.You should be able to reach the pedals comfortably.

7.If you are driving a manually shifted car, the gas pedal should be just a little bit lower than your brake pedal when the brakes are applied. This will help when doing a heel and toe down shift.

8.There should be clearance between your helmet and the roof of the car.

9.If you have a roll bar, the top of your helmet should be at least 1 inch below the top of the roll bar.

mhoward1

Keep it fun!!!

1.Have a positive attitude.

2.Don't try to fix everything at once.
3.Don't allow yourself to get frustrated. If you are not having fun, talk to your instructor.

4.Don't place unreasonable expectations on yourself. Set small goals, reach them, and be happy.

5.Do not try and drive fast; try and drive well. If you learn to drive well, you will be fast. Be comfortable with what you are doing. If you just go out to try and drive fast, you won't learn, and you won't be fast. The secret is to take the time to learn how to drive fast, instead of trying to drive fast.

mhoward1

There are whole books written about this topic, but here are the highlights. It is not in depth, and is simplified, but the basics are here. You need to spend time thinking about traction and becoming very comfortable with the physics of what is going on. Understanding weight shift and how it affects traction will give you a very important tool to correct a problem before it gets out of control.


There is a fixed amount of traction available, and you have significant control over how it is used. The amount of traction available is determined by the track surface, track slope, tire temperature, tread design, tire compound and corner weight. You may have a little control over track slope by where you place your car on the track, but the primary focus here is on weight transfer and steering angle.

There are three primary ways you can affect how your traction is used:
1.Steering angle
2.Braking
3.Accelerating

You affect the corner weighting by turning the car, which shifts the weight from side to side, and by braking or accelerating, which shifts the weight from front to back. Accelerating shifts weight to the back tires, braking shifts weight to the front tires. Where the weight is shifted to gains traction, where the weight is shifted from loses traction.

The steering angle affects traction in two ways. It shifts weight from side to side in the car, and it determines how much of your front wheel traction is used for steering, and how much is used for braking. The more you turn the wheel, the more front steering traction is lost due to a braking affect caused by pushing your front tires sideways in an effort to turn. Once you exceed the desired slip angle for your tires (about 10 degrees), your steering traction drops as the tire is just being pushed sideways which results in braking. If you turn too far past the slip angle of your tire, you risk spinning. As the tires scrub off speed, you will reach the point that the tires regain grip. When they do they will cause the front of the car to turn quickly in the direction the tires are pointed. This sudden movement will often result in spin. If you feel the car pushing, turning the wheel further will not help you turn more. You must do some combination of lift, light braking, or opening the wheel until the tires regain grip.

Braking and accelerating share a common trait. While small amounts of either can help traction, large amounts of either can cause you to lose traction. A small application of power can transfer weight to the back of the car and give it some extra traction if it is starting to slide. Large amounts of throttle could cause the rear wheels to use so much of their traction to provide acceleration that the tires will lose grip completely and the car will spin. A lift, light braking or opening the wheel slightly can help a car that is pushing.

If you lift and/or brake lightly you will transfer some weight to the front wheels which will help them turn. Conversely if you hit the brakes too hard, so much of the traction will be used in an effort to brake that the tires will lose steering traction and you will go straight. To further complicate things, rear engined high horsepower cars can suffer significant understeer by accelerating too quickly. With the engine weight in the back over the rear wheels and the front weight being transferred to the back because of acceleration, the front wheels do not have enough grip to cause the car to turn.

Driving a FWD (Front Wheel Drive) vehicle typically requires some degree of trail braking into a Corner. The braking zone is usually extended further in a FWD vehicle in order to create downforce on the front tires to facilitate corner turn in, as well as getting on the throttle early to pull the car through the apex of the corner. If you lift off the brake just before turn in, the weight will come off the front and transfer to the rear, the front of the car will lose grip and the car will understeer. This same technique would also be used driving a RWD (Rear Wheel Drive) vehicle approaching a slow corner where the tendency is to understeer. The slow in fast out approach is key. One of the benefits of FWD is the vehicles natural ability to avoid a spin with power application, and the ability to induce rotation by lifting the throttle. However, the fastest lap time will be achieved by braking into the corner to plant the nose and applying throttle as soon as the car turns in. Carrying too much speed into the corner and having to lift to rotate will scrub too much speed, and result in the car slowing down when the driver should be accelerating. Long radius or double apex turns turns can be very enjoyable with a FWD vehicle as the second part of the turn can be accomplished with a quick momentary throttle lift without moving the steering wheel. Crisis Management in FWD: If the back end steps out open the wheel and apply power, the amount of power proportionate to the amount the back end stepped out (slid). The wheel is opened to the neutral or straight ahead position but not opposite lock. The power on the front wheels will literally pull the car out of the slide. The rear tires will always take one to two laps longer to come up to temp. For heavy understeer when the car refused to turn, it can be forced to rotate by lifting throttle, slightly tapping the brake or both and getting right back on hard power on the onset of rotation. The car can be “forced” to turn with this technique.

Techniques with AWD are more related to FWD than RWD because the vehicles natural tendency is to understeer, however the ability to accelerate with both front and rear tires allows enhanced acceleration capabilities, and more power application sooner is possible. Recovery techniques are same as FWD, apply power if the rear steps out and open the wheel. Lift throttle to induce rotation.

mhoward1

Remember that everything in a car is related, and that anything you change will have an affect on other aspects of your car. The art in getting a car set up properly is having everything work within the limits imposed by other parts of the car. It doesn't make sense to add 50 horsepower if your brakes are already overheating. It is important to understand the relationships and make good choices about modifications you make. For example switching to R-Compound tires can have a negative affect on your brakes. The extra grip provided by the tires allow the brakes to work harder, so they get hotter. The extra grip can also cause more body roll that can result in tire rubbing.
There is nothing that can make a bigger difference in how fast your car goes than your ability to drive it. Spending money on your skills makes you faster. Spending money on your car makes your car faster. Do you want to be known as a fast driver, or the driver of a fast car? Wallets makes cars faster on the straights, skill makes cars faster in the corners. If you are asking other people what modifications you should make to your car to make it faster, you probably should wait and get more experience. With experience you will know what needs to be done to your car, you won't need to ask. Once you know what you need to improve, then talk to others that drive the same car as you and find out what works and what doesn't.

The one class of modifications that help every aspect of tracking a car is making it lighter. It makes acceleration, braking and cornering better. There are no negative aspects of making a car lighter unless you do something that weakens the structural integrity of the car.

Remember that modifying your car may create problems with warranty.

mhoward1

High Performance Driving School: Gives a student the opportunity to learn by gaining experience in mastering the techniques and concepts of high speed driving. Students begin to implement the stuff they usually have read about in high performance driving books. The problem is you can read every book ever published on the subject, fully comprehend all the concepts and jargon, and still have no clue of what you are dong once you get behind the wheel. The reason for this is because the sensitivity, vision, hand, foot, eye and mental coordination can only be developed with seat time. This is visceral. I don’t know exactly how to explain it. Perhaps people who fly airplanes or have done downhill ski slalom may understand. It’s not that it’s difficult, in fact anyone can learn high speed driving at a competent level, it just takes time and coaching.

Racing School The High Performance Driving School discussed above teaches the basic skills necessary to drive in a competitive event, but it does not teach you how to race or be competitive. Racing schools teach race craft. Race craft is the strategic planning required to get ahead of the car/cars in front using whatever means necessary within the established guidelines set by the sanctioning body of the race series. Race craft is focused on gaining track position as opposed to driving the "perfect" and fastest qualifying lab. Cars that are racing will almost always turn slower lap times than cars that trying to catch up with those ahead in order to race them. However, part of race craft is having the basic skills to be able to drive the correct fast line in order to qualify well, stay ahead once ahead, or catch traffic in front.

Specialty School Car clubs do not typically run specialty schools because they focus on a specific form of racing. I would include the Buck Baker Oval Track School, ROY HILL Drag Racing School, Richard Petty Driving Experience, and stage rally schools examples of specialty schools.

mhoward1

What will I learn at a Driving School? This is an important question because it will help greatly to enter a driving school with a reasonable set of expectations. You are not going to attend a couple of driving schools and secure a contract driving for Eddie Jorden or Richard Childress. What you will probably learn is that you are only capable of using only a fraction of the total capability of the car you currently driving. Most of the modifications you did don’t actually make much of a difference (at this stage of the game) and may have actually make the car slower and more difficult to drive. In this respect driving schools will enable you to spend money on hardware cost effectively and objectively, once you fully understand and have experienced the vehicle dynamics on the track. We have to get the "software" right before we start worrying about "hardware" other than basic safety and track worthiness issues

What you learn at a Driving School is based on the Comprehension and Performance Milestone you are at.

Milestones for novice/beginner, intermediate, and advanced students as follows:

Level 1 Novice or Green Group Students

• Rules/procedures/format of school
• Aware of vehicle condition
• Proper seat & driving position-Mirror position-seat belts or harnesses snug-correct head and hand position.
• Traffic Safety Management: Observes pit line starter & watches traffic when leaving pit – checks mirrors often-signals and assists passing cars-observes corner workers & flag status-observes pit entrance procedures
• Up-shifts and Downshifts properly and selects appropriate gear.
• Smooth clutch release and observes engine redline.
• Knows track layout and the proper driving line
• Does not early apex
• Vision- looks into turn, past apex and toward exit.
• Smooth turn in and smooth turn out – knows largest possible radius
• Throttle on before turn exit.
• Correct hand technique, will introduce shuffle steering
• No abrupt sawing steering wheel inputs.
• No driver body lean-keeps head up and vision far down stream
• Clips apex’s consistently
• Understands understeer & oversteer
• Knows the location of run-off areas
• Knows how to drive off track
• Understands threshold and/or ABS braking
• Performs had barking without lockup
• Corner entry speed correct
• Follows directions & responds to instruction
• Maintains appropriate car spacing (2 seconds)
• Is at least driving on the track

Level 2 Immediate Yellow Group Students

• Scans and attends entire visual field-Has high situational awareness
• Brakes hard and late on straights
• Knows and achieves brake traction limits
• Has consistent brake point selection
• Left foot braking as appropriate
• Consistence cornering force
• Can correct a skid – knows spin limiting techniques
• Knows acceleration limits exiting turns and uses correct RPM range
• Performs turn analysis
• Can drive in both wet and dry
• Uses very small steering corrections
• Understands the significance and can evaluate corner exit speed
• Can execute a early apex (capable of driving off line and stay on track)
• Can execute a late apex (capable of driving off line and stay on track)
• Knows "S" turn line and performs driving line analysis
• Is aware of errors and can self evaluate/self teach
• Steers accurately and consistently
• Can recognize and is sensitive to vehicle feedback.
• Can evaluate vehicle feedback
• Reads traffic-Looks through cars ahead
• Exhibits calmness and self control
• Knows driving terms
• Has a action plan for each corner
• Changes vehicle position by altering trajectory

Level 3 Advanced Blue Group Students

• Demonstrates spatial memory of course
• Performs error analysis
• Reacts well to the unexpected
• Anticipates changing conditions
• Reads road surface
• Performs heal & toe down-shifts
• Hard braking into turn/trail brakes
• Can double clutch
• Can Throttle steer vehicle
• Knows principles of vehicle dynamics
• Knows weight transfer and is aware of brake bias
• In sensitive to vehicle dynamics
• Understands tire dynamics
• Understands slip angles-effect on grip-and cornering speed
• Knows rain techniques

©copyright BMWCCA Tarheel Chapter

mhoward1

First Timers at the Track
by Dave "Big Dog" Nichols or the Driver Formerly Known as Prince, er...uh...as "The Weiner Dog"

My first drivers school is coming up, what should I expect?

What To Bring

Most serious students at drivers schools have learned several important lessons:

You can have lots of fun just being at the track.
You’ll have even more fun with the right equipment.
SOMEONE at the track is bound to have the right tool or part for virtually any problem. Get to know as many people as possible. Be friendly. Say thank you, and you’ll be surprised at how helpful people can be.
The amount of stuff you want to take to the track will expand to fill the available space.
Here is a brief list of essentials for the track:

Extra motor oil (at least two quarts)
Window cleaner
Paper towels
Hand cleaner
Hat
Helmet (confirm that your helmet meets or exceeds the minimum requirements)
Sunscreen
Ground sheet to keep the sand and dirt out of the other stuff
Registration/tech sheets
Cover sheet
Lawn chair
Tire gauge
Pen/paper
Watch or clock
Garbage bags (helps keep the small stuff together)
Extra T-shirt (you’ll probably get sweaty)
Extra long sleeved shirt (some schools require them)
Cooler stocked with lots of water and/or Gatorade plus fruit and snacking veggies (Absolutely NO ALCOHOL of any kind will consumed by ANYONE during run sessions, but feel free to have a cold one after the last session IF you won’t be driving home).
Before the First Session

There are several keys to having a great first school. First and foremost is GET THERE EARLY! Absolutely nothing is more unnerving and creates more anxiety in first timers than being late, missing a drivers meeting and starting the day off wrong. Plus if you’re early, you’re less likely to make mistakes in your paperwork, cleaning out the car or missing a tech inspection.

You’ll begin the day with a group meeting with the classroom instructor and the chief instructor. They will go over the rules of the track, what the flags mean, how to pass properly and about a dozen other things you’ll need to know to have a safe enjoyable weekend. You’ll hear it about a kajillion times throughout the course of the weekend, so let’s get the first order of business out of the way:


THIS IS NOT A RACING SCHOOL!

If you’re coming to a school to prove you’re the next Jeff Gordon, impress your friends with your courage and skill, or see if you can get your moneys worth out of all those expensive car modifications,
here is rule #1:

FAILURE TO FOLLOW THE RULES AND/OR LISTEN TO YOUR INSTRUCTOR WILL MAKE IT NECESSARY FOR THE CLUB TO REFUND YOUR MONEY AND ASK YOU TO LEAVE. IF YOUR ATTITUDE IS REALLY BAD, THE REFUND MAY BE OPTIONAL.
Please don’t embarrass the folks running the school by making them embarrass you. Everyone is there to enjoy the cars, have some fun, meet great people and enjoy a safe learning experience. About 99% of the people who come to these events are the greatest people/drivers on the road. Keep in mind that your instructor isn’t being paid. They are just trying to impart some knowledge and live to do it again.

The first priority is to clean out the car. EVERY loose object must be removed from the trunk and passengers compartment. The most important area to check is UNDER THE FRONT SEAT. Objects tend to gravitate to this area and you won’t notice them until you get on the binders really hard. Invariably they roll or slide under your feet. Going into a braking zone is not the place to have something jam under the pedals. Any item that is not attached needs to be removed. Clean out the glove box, rear package shelf, and console. All floor mats should be removed to keep them from sliding around.

After you have the car clean, your instructor or the tech crew will perform a tech inspection to check everything including your helmet. They should check the trunk, under the hood and the passenger compartment to make sure the battery is secure, all loose objects are removed, and there are no fluid leaks. They will also check the Snell sticker on the inside of your helmet.

Next is tire pressure. Due to the nature of this kind of driving, you’ll need to add some air. About 35lb cold is a good starting point. The one thing you don’t want is for the tire to roll over during hard cornering and come off the rim. They will gain some pressure as they heat up, so don’t go overboard and overinflate them.

For first timers (hereafter referred to as "track virgins"), as well as those in beginning run groups, you may have some on track exercises designed to help you explore the limits of your car and get a feel for how the chassis works. Before we take your pride and joy out on the track, let’s go over the basics of sitting in the car.

It may seem elementary to discuss how to sit in a car. After all you’ve been doing it for many years, but [no pun intended ;-)] for this type of driving, seating and body position is important. To control the car you must be able to concentrate on inputs - steering, throttle and brakes - without worrying about being a loose object behind the wheel.

You should be sitting IN rather than ON the seat. Use your feet to push back and wiggle your butt into the seat. After making sure you’re in total contact with the seat, see if you can reach all the pedals. If not, adjust the seat and start again.

Next up is hand position on the steering wheel. Place your hands at either 9:00 and 3:00 or 10:00 and 2:00. Notice the word hands, as in plural. This is no place for one-handed driving. You’ll get better results if your arms are slightly bent. It they’re fully extended you won’t get good leverage.

Next move your right hand and place it at "noon" on the wheel. If you can do this without moving your back away from the seat you’re probably positioned correctly. To make sure, put your hands back at 9:00 and 3:00 and turn the wheel to the right and left WITHOUT changing position on the wheel. If your elbows hit the seat back or your body, you’re too close to the wheel. Tilt the seat back slightly until your arms are slightly bent.

People who are vertically challenged (i.e. short) or those with extremely long arms may never be able to reach the ideal seating position without modifying the car with pedal extenders. If this is your case, go for the best compromise.

Before attaching the seat belt, check the mirrors. When you are on the track ( and of course for everyday street driving) it is your responsibility to check the mirrors. You will be in the beginning or novice run group and there may be students who have attended other drivers schools. They may be faster. In any group of drivers there will be faster and slower cars, so be aware of what is behind you. With that in mind, your first priority is still to concentrate on the line in the turns. The mirrors are for the straightaways when you’ll be passing or being passed. Try not to let the mirror affect your line in the turn.

Next is seat belts. You want to make sure they’re fastened as tightly as possible. On some older cars you can fool the inertia system into locking, if you lower the seat back, set the belt and then raise the seat back up. It might not work for your car, but it’s worth a try. Ask your instructor for help.

-CONT-

mhoward1

Riding with Instructors

You may have the privilege of riding with an instructor in their car either during an instructor session (not for the faint of heart, these guys are obscenely fast) or during an advanced student session. Don’t be shy about asking for rides as most instructors love to have someone in the other seat. Once you’ve ridden with your instructor, ask another one. Each has their own style and if it is at all possible, get an instructor with a car similar to your own. This will give you a good idea as to its potential performance and handling characteristics.

When you ride with an instructor keep three things in mind.

They know what they are doing. If they didn’t, the chief instructor would not have invited them. They will be going very fast and things happen in a big hurry. Most of them don’t mind you talking to them, but ask just to make sure.
Don’t compare yourself to the instructors. They have years experience and know how their car will react at any given moment. Forget about the speed and watch the line they take in the turns. If everything is done right, the car will naturally hit the apex and track out to the proper position.
Watch their hands and feet. The biggest secret to high performance driving is BE SMOOTH!
The steering input, throttle application, braking and shifting may appear violent at first, but it should be smooth and no more harsh than necessary. They should not be making any unnecessary movements of the steering wheel, turning it only as far as it takes to get the car through the turn.

Braking should be firm and definite. The car should slow to the right speed and then the brakes will be gently released. Downshifts should be barely noticeable except for a rise in engine revs.

The throttle should be applied smoothly and when the entire lap is finished you will notice now gentle it all seemed. Just because a driver is working hard doesn’t mean they are fast. The best ones are so good it seems effortless.

Car Care

This type of driving puts extra strain on both you and the vehicle. If you’re in a BMW or other German car this is how they are intended to be driven. Even with the fine engineering they still need some extra TLC at the track so here’s a short list of things to check:

Before EVERY session:

Check the engine oil. Make sure it’s full, but don’t overfill it either.
Check the wheel bolt tightness.
Clean the windshield.
Inspect the tires for cuts or imbedded objects.
At the beginning of each day:

Check all the fluid levels.
Check the tire pressure.
Look for fluid leaks.
Make sure you have at least 1/2 tank of gas.

In case no one mentions it to you:
NEVER SET THE PARKING BRAKE AFTER A TRACK SESSION!

It’s a great habit on the street, but at the track it’s a recipe for stuck rear brakes. The rotors get so hot during track use they are subject to warping and sticking if you apply the parking brake. Just park on level ground, put it in reverse and let it cool down.

Know What You are Learning

It’s easy to be overwhelmed with all the information you’ll be receiving, but try to come away with some basic concepts. If you master only two skills from this school, it will be money well spent.

Look up! The human brain is one of God’s masterpieces. We’re internally hard wired to go where we look. If you learn the skill of looking through the turn you’ll be pleasantly surprised to find that if you have done everything right up to that point (enter the turn at the correct speed) you’ll end up going where you look. Concentrating on the 10 feet directly over the hood is one of the worst habits any driver can have. The farther ahead you look, the more time you have to weigh the options and make a good decision.
Be smooth with the inputs. Nothing upsets the car more than a jerky throttle, steering and braking. If you’re doing it right, it’s smooth.
Are We Having Fun Yet?

If you have any problems communicating with your instructor, let them know. Chances are that they just don’t recognize what you need. Everyone is different. If you need lots of feedback, make them aware of that fact. If they’re talking too much or not giving you any positive reinforcement, say something. If you are not getting the kind of help you need or not having any fun, ask the classroom instructor about getting a new instructor.

Most first timers are anxious to ask for another instructor, but don’t be shy. If you have a great instructor let them know. If you want someone else, do it at the end of the first day. Whatever you do, don’t go away wishing you had spoken up. Just make sure you do it in a mature adult fashion. However keep in mind that the problem could be your attitude. If you’re having the same problem with a second instructor, re-examine your actions and see if the problem is you.

What can you do to make the car better?

Don’t go overboard on modifications. Take it one step at a time and you’ll save money and frustration. Most changes to the car are unnecessary until you hone your skills with several schools. Should you want to invest in some extra goodies for your ride, consider these:

Safety equipment
Handling and brake upgrades
Creature comforts at the track
Until you’ve had at least a dozen schools, you don’t need to be concerned with more horsepower.
The best investments in the beginning are:

Good harnesses. Nothing adds more confidence and comfort than being held firmly in the car. Having to use the steering wheel as a brace is the quickest way to lose concentration.
Better brake pads. This is a case of the right tool for the job.
Fresh suspension. New bushings, ball joints, and shocks will go a long way toward making even an older car handle like new.
A good seat. A well made seat will make you a part of the car and enable you to get a much better feel of how the chassis talks to you.
Some good driving shoes and gloves. These help you fine tune the interface of you and the car (plus they look sharp!).
Anything that will make the day at the track more enjoyable such as a canopy (be sure it will fit in the car) and a good folding chair.
Just exactly what is the Red Mist?

If you hear an instructor warn you about the red mist, what they are referring to is the tendency for drivers to make bad decisions. These lapses in judgment can be attributed to:

Fatigue
Ego
Overconfidence
Lack of experience
Dehydration
No one can do anything to control your ego, but you. We can remind you to

Drink plenty of water and/or Gatorade. Forget the colas...they just make you more thirsty.
Get plenty of rest.
Don’t drive if you’re overheated.
If you are too tired to have some fun, you are too tired to be a safe driver. Don’t think you have to drive every lap to get your money’s worth. If you find that you cannot concentrate, sit out a session. The track will still be there later and you’ll have more fun if you are able to focus.