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Hey guys. I picked up the spc front upper arms and shim kit. Mu 350z is a summer daily and HPDE car.
two questions.
1. Should I install the shim kit?
2. Decent setting for street and track?
No, don't. It's for slammed cars to compensate for the negative camber and you want negative camber! Street & Track - I'd say go with something like -2,5 and -1,5, 0 toe front, slight rear toe in.
I installed SPC FUCA's and on initial install added .75 deg of front caster and adjusted to -1.5 front camber. At the alignment shop today I told the tech my 4' level and metric ruler adjustment and said I had added caster, the arms only allow for .75 deg increments of adjustment and as long as they were within that they were fine. I wound up being -.1 degree off on my camber, I was heppy to say the least but caster is at a total 9.9 and 10.5 left and right. Should this high caster be a concern? It is a slightly lowered street car with Hotchkis springs, SPC camber kit up front and rear. TIA...
Here are my alignment numbers along with the result of corner balancing. After tracking for three years I purchased ISC coil overs along with Z1 FUCA w/heim joints.
Darrin at West End Alignment did a great job, asking me the purpose of the car; primarily a track car for the fast tracks; Big willow ACS and Buttonwillow.
Alignment Specs:
Camber: F -3.0 / R-2.6
Caster +9
Toe-in: F 0 / R 3/32
Weight: 3182 lbs
For reference the car is an 05 base with mods; VLSD, 07 twin caliper brakes and a few engine bold ons.
The attachment has additional detail on the corner balance weight distribution.
CWs look good. Did he send you pics of the scale readouts at least? Lol.
Also, 2.6 is too much rear camber in my experience, for my car at least. And it will make it twitchy at the limit, again in my experience.
No pics.
I was wondering if the rear camber was too much. He advised to start slow; do a couple of Auto X runs to find the limit then move on to Streets then graduate to big Willow and the infamous Turn 9. On the stock suspension it was neutral to slight over-steer; actually I had a couple of brown trouser moments as the Z moved beyond oversteer to to exiting the corner in a four wheel drift ;-)
Camber is a car specific thing, and generally the more body roll, the higher static camber you need all else equal. I run relatively high spring rates, so my ideal camber setting will be less than yours if your setup is softer (generally). Also, ideal camber is different for every car for every track for every tire for every condition. The pyrometer knows all tells all.
To answer your question, I am currently at 2.6 rear camber setup for Toyo RRs and I need to dial back the camber some.
The best thing you can do is buy a tire pyrometer early on and use it, so you dont waste all that potential track side development.
If it transitioned to Beyond Oversteer mode in a blink that is usually a rear shock travel thing. A little more camber wont cause that.
02-23-2019, 02:15 AM
