Carfreak70852

iTrader: (2)

That is the next step. And I do think they are bad. Unfortunately.

GreyZ

iTrader: (2)

Check your lca bushings and your compression rod bushings, willing to bet if it was that low then those bushings are all shot. whiteline and SPL can get those all back to better than stock. also check the tightness of the compression rod bolts, if they are loose they will pop, especially when reversing and turning at low speed

Carfreak70852

iTrader: (2)

Ya know - I bet you're right. I know that one of the compression arms was completely replaced, but when I just looked at my old alignment, the caster was off on one side (red flag for torn bushings). I am going to look at some SPL and Whiteline stuff. Thanks for the tip!

bertalert87

iTrader: (1)

more pistons and greater surface area doesnt mean the car will stop any quicker. Aside from acting as a greater heat sink to help prevent brake fade, your braking performance definitely diminished with that switch. there is a reason brembo is the #1 brake manufacturer on earth

Carfreak70852

iTrader: (2)

I won't flame you too much here, but nowhere did I say I bought them for more pistons or to stop any quicker (now, if the stance owner bought them before me, I could see where you were going with this). And if you read the thread, I did say I bought them for heat reduction. I boiled racing fluid in big Akebono brakes.

Could you please provide data that back up your claims of:
A. "...your braking performance definitely diminished with that switch."

B. "There is a reason Brembo is the #1 brake manufacturer on earth "

Also, remember I do not daily drive the car with factory tires or suspension.

Don't get me wrong, Brembos are great brakes - but if they are the best on earth as you claim, why did Porsche just drop them?

(for your reading enjoyment)
http://www.ogracing.com/blog/2014/01...fc-should-you/

2one8

iTrader: (1)

watch those rotors. Ive seen a few and had a lot of people tell me about cross drilled rotors cracking between holes on the track.

I've ran my Brembos with slotted Stoptechs pretty hard on the track and never had any fade. Now that I'm boosted I'm curious to see if I get any this next weekend.

67ZNISMO

iTrader: (6)

Nice work so far. Looks like you're having fun out there!

Enron Exec

Great thread, so much usefull info. Iv been on the fence with turning my 03 APS TT built motor 350Z into a track car.

Taereek43

iTrader: (2)

I had a lot of fun reading through your build. Good work man. It's good to see another white Z pulling some track duty. Do you have any plans for any weight reduction or cage/bar in the future? Keep us posted. Subscribed.

350Zdj

iTrader: (3)

Great build, OP. Thanks for sharing.

Are you still on OEM VLSD?

How easy is it to find consumables for the Rotora BBK?

Carfreak70852

iTrader: (2)

I am definitely keeping an eye on them. They're expensive to replace so I am hoping they last quite a while! Because they are 2-piece, I think I am going to have less cracks, but I am definitely looking for them. I will just be sad when they eventually do come

Boosted car on the track will be interesting. Update with how everything went. Boost + Track = a lot of heat! When I managed to boil my fluid in the Akebonos, I was on a very small course with a lot of sharp turns - so I am sure that had a lot to do with it. Good luck and please update!
Thanks! Definitely having a lot of fun. Can't wait for the next event!
Glad something I have posted has helped haha. If I were you, I would strip that TT kit off of there and go NA. These cars have a learning curve (small) as every car does. I still don't know my car and I cannot imagine it with 200whp or more added to it. With saying that - definitely go to the track. Maybe just got 70% instead of ***** to the wall!
:fist bump: White Z!

Thanks for the kind words. I don't really have any big plans to make it a dedicated track car *at this moment.* It is still currently my DD and until that changes, it won't get any cage or weight reduction. I have some plans for the car, but they are on the back burner. I would rather go out and have fun while getting student loan debt under control than go out there with a full race car and a lot of debt.
Thanks!

I am actually still using the OEM VLSD. How well it is working is a different story. I know that is one thing everyone complains about with these cars on the track. I did flush the fluid with Redline fluid before going to the track, so I am thinking that helped, but so far, it seems like it is doing its job.

Finding pads and such for the Rotoras is extremely easy. There is a guy named Ben (Benson) at Rotora that I e-mail quite frequently. Also, Hawk and Carbotech make pads for the Rotoras (same as Brembo kits) so that helps, too.

Carfreak70852

iTrader: (2)

I forgot to mention I changed gauge setups. I went with the digital series now instead of the ones I had before. I like them a lot more.




This is after I clay barred the front end of the car. Had tire and bugs all over it!

NOLAGG

iTrader: (1)

Looks dope.would you mind elaborating how you did the 2 gauges while retaining the stock multi, also what size are they and how dos you run the wires? Thanks and again car looks fresh

Carfreak70852

iTrader: (2)

Sure. I really need to take pictures of it. As you can see, it isn't perfect and I need to go back and straighten up the multi gauge.

First, you can remove the volt meter as it is a completely separate gauge (just cut the wires) now, remove the needle on the oil pressure gauge and remove the face. Then bend the needle until it breaks (the metal part that is protruding from the electric motor). Once broken, all is good. You can then slide the gauges in and they clear. The electric board goes behind the gauges. It looks like crap right now because the brackets and all are broken so it just sits behind there. I had to wrap the circuit board in electrical tape because I had one short out and catch on fire (first adventure doing this). If I take it out again I will take pics.

The gauges are 60mm Prosport EVO gauges. They aren't very deep and that is important. Another reason why I switched. The regular Prosports are too deep and don't fit properly.

As far as wiring goes, I tapped into the stereo harness for switched 12v, constant 12v and illumination. The sensor wiring is really easy and comes in the instructions.

Let me know if any of that helped.

NOLAGG

iTrader: (1)

Awesome definitely helped thanks.
About the sensors though where did you tap into the stock oil pressure location? Both temp and pressure?

Carfreak70852

iTrader: (2)

No, I used an oil sandwich plate. I believe the link to it is on the second page of this thread. Someone asked about it. It has 2 ports for Oil temp/Oil Pressure. Also has 2 -10an ports for oil cooler.

Musclesmau5

I have one too. It works great!

2one8

iTrader: (1)

well the car performed awesome on the track. Temps stayed just barely above normal. I dont have an EGT gauge yet though so couldnt watch those. Brakes performed awesome with the exception of the ABS kicking in a little early sometimes. The only problem I had all weekend was my inner fender lining came off at 120. I heard it go under the car and then saw a black piece fly out behind me, thought for sure I shredded a tire. Now i need to get new ones and use bolts instead of clips to hold them in.