Flier129

I'm ignorant to DE valve-trains. Why couldn't they spin past 7k reliably? They're DOHC, shim under-bucket designs right? Are the valve springs weird and cause some floating?

If Mike did 7500 I should be ok at 7200 for a couple of seasons

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

I did go through 3 motors . Rod bolts and oiling are the issues. The pre rev-up oil pump and rod bolts are poo...

BryanH

We also top out at 60mph (according to SoloStorm) on 275/35/18s with the rev limiter set to 6900rpm. 58mph from 285/30/18s would be a more harmful compromise in my opinion. Maybe an HR would do well with that size, especially on slower local courses. Out here, we need 3rd gear in our DE just about every event that isn't on a small lot.

I'm not trying to cause a stir here: I've been hearing talk about stub axles lately. It's accepted that replacing those with parts from another trim level (open diff VS viscous) is STU legal? I haven't read the rule lately but my reading of it a couple years ago when I was building my STX 300ZX didn't suggest to me that it was specifically allowed, therefore I felt it was under the "if it doesn't say you can, then you can't" umbrella clause. It's why I chose a KAAZ over an OSGiken.

eye-5

In my HR I'm darn close to 70 at the top of 2nd with the stock wheels on.

Flier129

What's to say mine is indeed a base model with open diff stub axles and I also have brembos? Relating this to something I know more about.... Say you have a 95 NA miata and run it in STR. That year had both type 1 axles and type 2 axles, not a trim level issue since the torsen LSD could come as an option for several packages, except maybe the base.

The rule reads.......

"2WD vehicles may use any mechanical LSD unit."

Well that's vague as hell. Might have to write in about this to specify.

Flier129

So I borrowed some scales to corner-balance the miata and I decided to put the Z on them. Pleasantly surprised with the numbers! This was with the stock track wheels 18x8/18x8.5 with 225s front/245s rear, no spare, and 2/3 to 3/4 tank of gas (70-80lbs of fuel?). Ignore the cross-weight, it was on a slight slope.


So I can drop another 50lbs easy, since I still have stock battery, stock seats, steel bodied shocks, 1 piece rotors, and functioning A/C which I'll probably keep I figure the 275s/285s will add some weight, but pretty confident that I could hit 3050lbs with a couple gallons of gas in full STU trim.

christoc

iTrader: (2)

I need to get my 03 touring up on the scaled before I do the seats/exhaust this spring.

I have a feeling it will disappoint me vs the 03 Enthusiast that used to weigh in at 3075 in B Stock trim (back in 03-06)

Z1NONLY

iTrader: (2)

Is this with or without you in the car? (Mine was 3144 with a little under half a tank of gas and no driver)

Flier129

Without a driver.

Flier129

Sooo, having some front toe issues...

This wear is on the inside of the tire, front only.

DD tires:


RS3s:



Control arm bushings have recently been replaced, balljoints have been recently replaced, alignment was a few months ago and the front was set to 0.

Based on this I'm thinking tie-rod ends since they are original. Or hub bearings, but there's no play in them.

Plz assist this Z nub, thanks!

Z1NONLY

iTrader: (2)

What about the compression rod bushing? (And did you replace iners and outers on the control arms?

Flier129

Yes to inners and outers, double checking on the compression rod bushing.

edit: Comp rod bushing was replaced but the ball-joint is not serviceable? Looking into that or maybe one of you kind gentlemen will answer before I figure it out :-D

Flier129

Back from the first local event this year. I cannot wait until I get the OSG in the car! The wheel spin on the unloaded side is a b!tch to deal with. On throttle rotation is nearly impossible with the way it currently responds. I also need to get in the car before I start "learning" how to drive it with an open diff.

I am getting better with the car, but I'm struggling with the dimensions of it. I'm quite a ways off some key cones. I was about 2 seconds off pace from placing decently in pro, which I believe the OSG and RE71Rs will make up a vast chunk of that precious time.

Biggest distraction of the day(no not the yoga pants) I came off course on my first run, stopped in my grid spot, and a buddy of mine that was riding with me "hey man, you got a tire leak over here!". So I managed to pick up a nail somewhere on the right rear tire and it came out on course. A good friend of mine hooks me up with a plug kit. Thankfully it was a small hole and an easy plug. Went back out on course nervously, but it held up great! So there's my racer's excuse for my poor performance

Here's my fastest run:

No idea where I finished in pro class or overall, too busy fixing my tire to pay attention to my times and others.

Any tips for how the Z reacted and what I could do are welcome!

Z1NONLY

iTrader: (2)

Seems like the car has some understeer in the video.

Did it feel that way behind the wheel?

Flier129

Yes, very much so. Quite a bit of body roll too....



Thinking about getting some stiffer springs for a easy bandaid fix until I can afford coilovers. Looks like swift spec R are the stiffest OTS option, 460f/480r linear. It would be a jump up vs the current hotchkiss of 340f/320r.

The hotchkiss bars were set at med-soft on the front, full-soft on the rear. RS3s at 34f/32r psi hot. I'm also really hoping the RE71Rs will eliminate some of the sloppiness I feel with the car.

christoc

iTrader: (2)

What are your plans for that front bumper cover?

Z1NONLY

iTrader: (2)

The RE71'S are much sharper than the RS3's but I don't think they will fix the understeer. Stiffening the rear sway may be the easiest bandaid, but it might make your open diff issue worse too.

Flier129

Taping it like Mike Lane did on his BSP car, lol.


Cool, that's what many have said about the RE71Rs. I'll see how the car feels at Dixie's TnT first before I change the rear sway setting. The OSG will be in the car the week after Dixie, go figure

BryanH

RE71Rs will generate more lateral grip and thus create more body roll, so in that sense they might make the car feel more sloppy.

I would probably leave the rear bar alone, stiffen the front bar to help combat the inside wheelspin, and find another way to get rotation (take out some rear toe? shock settings?).

christoc

iTrader: (2)

What level are you running in the tank? In my 04 (partial BSP trim) I ran with a full tank to try to help with the inside rear spin. In my first 03 (stock trim) we would run full empty as the think would make a 2 day event with "0 miles to empty" displayed.

I haven't decided what I am going to do in this car with the Tomei, will try running it empty to start, then see about trying it full as well.