Z1NONLY

iTrader: (2)

When using throttle to rotate the car in tight elements, I try to make a quick but smooth transition between rotating the car and forward thrust once the car is pointed at the angle at which I wish to exit the given element.

"Try" being the operative word.

(I basically just use the throttle to make the car complete the turn faster)

Once the "drag race" out of the tight element starts, I don't want any slip angle.

Frostydc4

iTrader: (3)

Has this been confirmed (whenever I do a search I see numerous posts that claim that 450 is the limit for the Z33 application). I'm asking because I'm planning on going with a 500f/600r setup.

Flier129

Yeah, that's what I ended up attempting and it worked out pretty well. I got down to a 58.1xx vs my co-driver's 57.3xx and he was 2nd or 3rd in PAX. But I didn't get that run on video and I coned it right at the finish(slid sideways into the two finish cones :-\)

No confirmed, just a recommendation from Proparts. I've also read 450 is the limit on yellows. Best to contact Koni to confirm though.

Flier129

I did a 2-day local event this past weekend at Bristol. The car did surprisingly well and I could of even won pro..... IF we were doing regular scoring. However, we were using rally-x scoring, ya know where you add up all of your runs I ended up with 4 cones total, still mid-pack in the local pro class. If I could of stayed clean I would of won by over a second, so that's cool.

Still learning the dimensions of the car, hence all the cones. I'm also braking too much and too often, I suppose coming from a miata to a 3k lb car I subconsciously think "oh I need to slow this thing down for this element" when in reality nope.... sure didn't have to.

Anyways, my Saturday times were good for FTP that day and fastest raw door-slammer(KM was there), but they were dirty. I was able to duplicate my fast time, so I knew it wasn't a fluke. With the fastest run I knew where I hit a cone..... in a silly spot . Absolutely no idea where I coned on my 2nd fastest time. Sunday my times were on par with the rest of pro instead of ~5/10ths ahead. I think I gained some confidence and started over-driving the car or some such

GoPro died on Saturday, but I got Sunday!



Lots of room for improvement, but the more I drive it, the more I like it!

SilverGLE

iTrader: (3)

Looks like a fun course! It's been years since I've driven at BMS.

Reminds me of what I keep telling myself... Less braking, more gas.

Flier129

Sooo plans have changed....

Went to Grid Life at Road Atlanta back in August. Ran a 1:42.6xx with an opt of 1:40.8 in the 3rd practice session on Friday. Well..... I went out on the last session of the day and I ran out of talent and grip in turn 4. Slammed into a the concrete wall at around ~80mph




It sucked, but thankfully I'm ok and already have plans started for STU next season. My usual co-driver decided to buy an inexpensive stock Z and buy all my parts for relatively cheap. Ended up with this car, needs some TLC for sure:




Even though my wreck was pretty damn bad, got lucky on the reusable parts. It's easier to list off the BAD things from my build:
-Hi-flow cats got dented pretty damn bad, breaking the honeycomb structure loose. (trashing these)
-Passenger side header slammed into a 10-12mm bolt head, possibly salvageable
-AC compressor mounting holes on the timing-chain cover snapped off.(probably replacing the covers on my engine.)
-The front of crank pulley got chipped away from the radiator contacting it.
-Transmission got hit by the same bigass rock the cats got hit with, large dent/hole in it. (this is trashed)
-Obviously the frame and body work, along with the two front wheels, airbags, driver's seat, tires, etc.

All in all, pretty lucky being able keep most of the STU parts.... Shocks/springs, OSG, exhaust, ECU, etc.


In the past two months I've been able to "get back onto the horse" in the miata. I did this between going up to the dragon, autox events, and then out on track at Barber on Halloween weekend. I ran within 0.5 sec of the current TTE record(soft record), so I felt ok about that.


Still following the plan to campaign that silver Z in STU next season!

SilverGLE

iTrader: (3)

I'm glad you're powering through it, and, more importantly, that you're safe!

Can't wait to see what you and James can do with the other Z. I'm still wishing I had the funds for a proper LSD.

Flier129

Damn near forgot about this car.

Ohhh shiny!



Plan is to button up the front suspension on this thing this weekend. First shake-down event next weekend, March 5th. Missing the headers and cats, but I'll pop the ecu on to make some more power.

SilverGLE

iTrader: (3)

Shiny!

I reminded myself yesterday why I still need a true LSD.

Flier129

It's like I painted my old car silver!








A few more things to button up on it, then doing a local autox this Sunday. The car has the same suspension as before Koni SA 550/450 Hotchkiss f/r, kinda old RE71Rs, stock headers/cats, my old cat-back setup, my uprev reflashed ECU, brembos/dtc60s, and of course the OSG.

Flier129

j/k on the ECU swap idea. Completely over looked the whole immobilizer with Zs

NA&CH

iTrader: (74)

Nice work. Glad your back. Good luck with the color change

Chris

Flier129

Completed it's first auto-x, both my co-driver(the owner of this car) and myself placed pretty low compared to where we normally finish, but whatever. Down on power, old *** tires, need more camber, yada yada.




Had some crazy brake pad sticking issues, once the pads got heat in them they would stop the car on level ground at sub 10mph without touching the brake pedal. Cleaned and rebuilt the front, pulled the boots off, popped the pistons out, removed seals, cleaned everything, put back together, greased all the things, seemed ok after driving around for awhile. Later in the day the rears started sticking bad. Took rears apart, noticed the "spring" clip was up side down, problem seemed to be resolved. No brake issues during the entire autox (10 runs), but the rears started sticking driving home


After run 6 for the car, the clutch started slipping pretty bad. It likely got glazed over. The clutch on my engine seemed great, but might be swapping in a new disc and pp during the engine swap.


Did some more digging on the ECU swap. Waiting on the shop that originally tuned it in hopes of them handing over the tune with the NATS disabled or let me know if there's not a password tied to it. At least those are the instructions UpRev gave me about it. Their disable NATS charge is listed at $350......might as well just get a new tune..... maybe one for 100 octane

SilverGLE

iTrader: (3)

An Exedy OEM replacement clutch is < $300... I'd just start fresh!

That car looks good... Wish I had gray over black, but, ah, well... May be a good idea to rebuild the other calipers, too.