ST/SU Build
12-20-2015, 11:35 PM
#121
The general rules for both SCCA and NASA are:
Seats: 5 years from date of manufacture, 5 additional years with a brace.
Window nets: SFI normally stamps them as good for 2 years, check the tag for expiration date. SCCA has never once looked at a window net tag on any cars I've been around.
Harnesses: FIA harnesses are good for 5 years from date of manufacture, SFI is good for 2 years from date of manufacture
Head and neck restraints: A more recent change to SFI 38.1 put in some verbage requiring an inspection by the manufacturer every 5 years. I have not seen this checked yet trackside but it may be coming.
Helmets: 10 years from the snell date. I'm actually not sure about FIA helmets though.
Seats: 5 years from date of manufacture, 5 additional years with a brace.
Window nets: SFI normally stamps them as good for 2 years, check the tag for expiration date. SCCA has never once looked at a window net tag on any cars I've been around.
Harnesses: FIA harnesses are good for 5 years from date of manufacture, SFI is good for 2 years from date of manufacture
Head and neck restraints: A more recent change to SFI 38.1 put in some verbage requiring an inspection by the manufacturer every 5 years. I have not seen this checked yet trackside but it may be coming.
Helmets: 10 years from the snell date. I'm actually not sure about FIA helmets though.
12-21-2015, 08:22 AM
#122
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Correction on harness expiration dates: SCCA made a rule change in 2015 on SFI rated harnesses. They are now good for five years, just like the FIA rated ones. Not sure about NASA or other sanctioning bodies, but they usually follow SCCA's lead.
12-21-2015, 10:47 AM
#124
Section 9.3.19, E, 1.
SFI rated expiration
12-22-2015, 12:33 PM
#128
I spoke with tech. support at SCCA for clarification of the club racing rulebook. Any SFI rated seat within good condition is acceptable. The date isn't evaluated in race-car inspection to determine pass or fail. Proper and secure mounting is required, that's about all that is expected with a seat.
That is speaking for club racing, auto-cross is way more lenient with safety equipment.
Helmets and harnesses are required to be within the expiration date. No exception.
That is speaking for club racing, auto-cross is way more lenient with safety equipment.
Helmets and harnesses are required to be within the expiration date. No exception.
12-22-2015, 03:20 PM
#129
I spoke with tech. support at SCCA for clarification of the club racing rulebook. Any SFI rated seat within good condition is acceptable. The date isn't evaluated in race-car inspection to determine pass or fail. Proper and secure mounting is required, that's about all that is expected with a seat.mi
That is speaking for club racing, auto-cross is way more lenient with safety equipment.
Helmets and harnesses are required to be within the expiration date. No exception.
That is speaking for club racing, auto-cross is way more lenient with safety equipment.
Helmets and harnesses are required to be within the expiration date. No exception.
12-22-2015, 08:18 PM
#130
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I spoke with tech. support at SCCA for clarification of the club racing rulebook. Any SFI rated seat within good condition is acceptable. The date isn't evaluated in race-car inspection to determine pass or fail. Proper and secure mounting is required, that's about all that is expected with a seat.
That is speaking for club racing, auto-cross is way more lenient with safety equipment.
Helmets and harnesses are required to be within the expiration date. No exception.
That is speaking for club racing, auto-cross is way more lenient with safety equipment.
Helmets and harnesses are required to be within the expiration date. No exception.
As an active SCCA tech inspector, I will inspect a composite seat to make sure there are no cracks or damage that would compromise the structure of the seat. For an aluminum seat, bends in the metal or signs of crash damage would disqualify the seat for competition purposes. Of course, stress marks in any mounting hardware or bent seat mounts would also preclude passing the car until the damage was repaired. Only after all of the above has been done will the seat certification label be examined.
12-23-2015, 04:49 AM
#131
Thanks for chiming in Dkmura! Im going to be shooting for a 16MY seat... may just have to be patient...
So I think im done with the weight savings portion of the build, the cage is being installed in January and I know all the safety equipment I need to buy... my next focus will be upping the power my VQ is making. I have a DE that is pretty much bone stock currently. If I run ST3 and assuming the car will sit at 3000# with driver and fuel (I think itll be less) I can be working with 300hp to meet the 10:1 WT/HP ratio... being that my engine is stock im guessing im putting down something in the 240-250hp at the wheels. Not sure what the drivetrain losses are in the z. So my question is what is the best route to up the power for road racing purposes and get a nice torque curve. I already have straight exhaust (with stock headers).
I think ACT or JWT lightweight flywheel are a must... they wont add any power but they will "free up" some power that currently being wasted. Is anyone running a lightweight clutch? I believe the JWT kit just uses the stock clutch correct?
From what I gather 5/16 plenum spacer is a good idea and running a larger TB seems to help.
Obviously in the end ill need to go and get the engine tuned on a dyno.
What are your guys suggestions? What kind of untapped power does the VQ have from the factory? Most production engines arent producing peak power due to emissions and all so im wondering how much is left to squeeze out of the VQ bone stock with just a good tune?
So I think im done with the weight savings portion of the build, the cage is being installed in January and I know all the safety equipment I need to buy... my next focus will be upping the power my VQ is making. I have a DE that is pretty much bone stock currently. If I run ST3 and assuming the car will sit at 3000# with driver and fuel (I think itll be less) I can be working with 300hp to meet the 10:1 WT/HP ratio... being that my engine is stock im guessing im putting down something in the 240-250hp at the wheels. Not sure what the drivetrain losses are in the z. So my question is what is the best route to up the power for road racing purposes and get a nice torque curve. I already have straight exhaust (with stock headers).
I think ACT or JWT lightweight flywheel are a must... they wont add any power but they will "free up" some power that currently being wasted. Is anyone running a lightweight clutch? I believe the JWT kit just uses the stock clutch correct?
From what I gather 5/16 plenum spacer is a good idea and running a larger TB seems to help.
Obviously in the end ill need to go and get the engine tuned on a dyno.
What are your guys suggestions? What kind of untapped power does the VQ have from the factory? Most production engines arent producing peak power due to emissions and all so im wondering how much is left to squeeze out of the VQ bone stock with just a good tune?
12-23-2015, 07:56 AM
#133
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First things first: find a reliable performance shop nearby with a well-maintained dyno. Get a few baseline pulls done on the car FIRST, before you add anything else. A few things to add to your knowledge base on the VQ is that it likes rotational mass to reach optimum output. Lighter flywheel/clutch packages seem to allow the VQ to rev quicker, but there's a corresponding drop in top end. Testing with lighter flywheel packages found NO corresponding drop in lap times and that's coming from a Z racer who used to have the uber-lightweight Tilton street/track twin disc clutch and lightweight flywheel package. If I were you, I'd suggest the first mod would be to add test pipes, a lightweight single exhaust and an UpRev tune on unleaded race fuel. There are gains to be made there- just be ready to pay a skilled tuner for multiple pulls on the dyno to extract the best results.
As for batteries, and if the rules allow it, keep the bigger battery and relocate it towards the RR of the Z. That's always the lightest side when corner weighting and you can use both the reserve power (lightweight batteries suck in that regard) and weight to your advantage.
Sorry for the long post, but I've got some real-world experience on these topics to share.
As for batteries, and if the rules allow it, keep the bigger battery and relocate it towards the RR of the Z. That's always the lightest side when corner weighting and you can use both the reserve power (lightweight batteries suck in that regard) and weight to your advantage.
Sorry for the long post, but I've got some real-world experience on these topics to share.
12-23-2015, 11:50 AM
#134
First things first: find a reliable performance shop nearby with a well-maintained dyno. Get a few baseline pulls done on the car FIRST, before you add anything else. A few things to add to your knowledge base on the VQ is that it likes rotational mass to reach optimum output. Lighter flywheel/clutch packages seem to allow the VQ to rev quicker, but there's a corresponding drop in top end. Testing with lighter flywheel packages found NO corresponding drop in lap times and that's coming from a Z racer who used to have the uber-lightweight Tilton street/track twin disc clutch and lightweight flywheel package. If I were you, I'd suggest the first mod would be to add test pipes, a lightweight single exhaust and an UpRev tune on unleaded race fuel. There are gains to be made there- just be ready to pay a skilled tuner for multiple pulls on the dyno to extract the best results.
As for batteries, and if the rules allow it, keep the bigger battery and relocate it towards the RR of the Z. That's always the lightest side when corner weighting and you can use both the reserve power (lightweight batteries suck in that regard) and weight to your advantage.
Sorry for the long post, but I've got some real-world experience on these topics to share.
As for batteries, and if the rules allow it, keep the bigger battery and relocate it towards the RR of the Z. That's always the lightest side when corner weighting and you can use both the reserve power (lightweight batteries suck in that regard) and weight to your advantage.
Sorry for the long post, but I've got some real-world experience on these topics to share.
Already has test pipes and stainless single exhaust all the way to the back.
As for the Uprev tune, what in all is required to make this possible? Are the DE heads capable of being revved higher? I read about this a while back and remember being told that its not worth doing on a DE, gotta dig that post up. If you have any more info id be very interested.
Ill find a reputable tuner in the area and see if i cant get some numbers posted soon.
Thanks again for the advice!
12-23-2015, 12:09 PM
#135
If you use the original battery location, Odyssey makes a good battery. A good friend ran one for about four years on a Civic Si. If you use the original battery, I second the idea of relocating to improve balance. You mentioned you are on a budget...relocating is much cheaper than a lightweight-battery with greater advantages.
dkmura's suggestion is a great place to start with "power".
Your goal is to be fast and with a budget? Don't mess with the engine right now. Gain driving experience and learn your car on the track. You have a gutted car, in theory, you just freed up a lot more hp than you could gain with a budget.
A fast driver with 250hp is better than a slow driver with 450hp.
dkmura's suggestion is a great place to start with "power".
Your goal is to be fast and with a budget? Don't mess with the engine right now. Gain driving experience and learn your car on the track. You have a gutted car, in theory, you just freed up a lot more hp than you could gain with a budget.
A fast driver with 250hp is better than a slow driver with 450hp.
12-23-2015, 06:14 PM
#137
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Are you corner weighting your Z with a corresponding weight in the driver's seat? Your cross-weights are quite different than mine.
Also, building a NA VQ race engine is quite expensive and complex. Make that a future project and take your time in researching it. Otherwise, spend your budget on getting an UpRev cable with Osiris and Cipher loaded on it.
Also, building a NA VQ race engine is quite expensive and complex. Make that a future project and take your time in researching it. Otherwise, spend your budget on getting an UpRev cable with Osiris and Cipher loaded on it.
