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Hello All. The past few seasons I've been running an E36 M3 in STU. While I've been able to trophy at Dixie the past two years, and at Moultrie last year there's still been a gap that I just couldn't cross to the leaders or top 3 or 4 cars depending on class size. So I sold the M3 and I've recently purchased a bone stock 2007 350Z to build for STU.
The car I bought is a lower mileage, in the 80k range, base model, one owner but had a couple of dings on the carfax for small, non-airbag collisions. After looking at the car and realizing what I'll be doing with it (auto-x and occasional HPDE) this seemed like the perfect fit and price as I got it well below 10k and haven't seen another pop up that low in price since my purchase.
While I had a lot done to my E36 M3 I never went as far as $$$ shocks or aftermarket diff. I just didn't feel it could make the performance jump I needed. Now that the E36 M3 is going to STR in 2017 I'm pondering if I should have sold it... hindsight being 20/20 and all.
This 350Z will be my first "all out" auto-x build and hence the reason for getting the base model to start with the lightest HR possible. I'm hoping to have the suspension, wheels/tires, and diff done by September or October this year so I can get a few events in before 2017. Then I can move on to power (headers, tune, etc) and weight savings (seats, battery, etc).
Having said that I already got a Tomei Titanium y-pipe back exhaust as I found a great deal on a used one. The whole system is lighter than the stock muffler
So to start off on the drivetrain mods I've already purchased an OS Giken 1.5 way rear diff and it finally arrived this past week. I'll be getting new bearings and everything to install shortly.
My first question is if I do decide to do HPDE/track days would a finned diff cover be helpful with the OS Giken? I was told as long as I use the OS Giken fluid heats not an issue but just wanted more opinions. Z1 Motorsports is within driving distance of my house so I could pick up one of their finned diff covers easily and it holds an extra 0.5L of fluid as well.
Second question is shocks. My current thought is a 2-way with remote reservoirs. I'm leaning toward remotes for the occasional track days along with possible co-drives at auto-x events. Local events here you don't always get that 5 min between co-drives, a lot are back to back with no rest, just driver switch and go.
MCS and Penske are on the top of my list. Having never had either I'm looking for opinions. MCS is out of Atlanta (fairly local for me) and get a lot of good words said about them in other chassis and classes. I've never heard a bad word about Penske setups. My big concern is I don't see any vendors that make complete bolt in setups. On the E36 I could order a MCS setup with mounts, springs, etc. All I find on the 350Z is the shocks. What's the go-to setup for mounts and springs?
Last question for today is STU legal front control arms. If I've read everything right it's either Kinetic's modified for more camber or Megan arms? Is that still the only options?
I appreciate any and all help as I get this build going. Looking forward to hopefully meeting some of you at future events. I'll continue to dig through old threads here and learn as much as I can from them.
I asked SCCA if I could run finned Diff cover, and the answer was a big NO. But I see it's being considered now, including full cooler. I don't remember when they plan to review it and have a decision, so it maybe worth waiting. I'm done, unless my diff explodes, I'm not changing the cover.
front arms - I would get eccentric bushings. You have to get them custom made, but the stock arms are light. I run the Kinetic arms shortened, but they are heavier then the aluminum OEM arms. Also depends how low you will run the front, which helps to gain camber.
Welcome! It's cool see another STU build, the more builds I see pop up the happier I am about purchasing my Z.
Since you have a base model with an open diff(correct?) you shouldn't have to get different stub axles for the OSG. And I didn't think about the diff cover, so I read the ruling again, 14.10.K: STU, STR, STX, STP: Only standard (as defined in Section 12) limited slip differentials (LSD) are allowed on AWD vehicles. For AWD vehicles that did not come with any type of limited slip differential (including center differential or transfer case), a single aftermarket mechanical LSD may be added. 2WD vehicles may use any mechanical LSD unit.
So it doesn't say you can swap diff covers, this means you can't do it
Kinetix upper arms seem to be the easiest option. I have some SPC upper arms with delrin bushings cut to OEM specs, but they have been known to slide out of adjustment sometimes.
For suspension have you ever considered JRZ? I'm talking to Brian at Karcepts currently about a non-coilover rear design from JRZ. It might be something you're interested in as well, sales@karcepts.com . There's also Koni setups from PropartsUSA, so there's a several top tier routes you can go and I have no clue which is best
Thanks for the input guys. So no on the diff cover, no problem there.
I talked with OS Giken before purchasing and made sure I got the correct model to not buy new stub shafts. I just need to get new bearings to press on it and some shims just in case it doesn't drop in to the exact same spot.
I don't really have anyone close to make eccentric bushings for me to put in the stock arms. Plus the stock alignment shows a few tenths of a degree different in camber left to right so I'd have to rotate them different for each side. At this point I think I'll just go with the Kinetix.
What about rear camber? Is the stock adjustment enough? Or would one need to get adjustable arms back there as well?
I ended up geting rear camber arms. I had just a bit too much negative camber after lowering and corner-balancing. (Kinetix)
Sounds good.
You wouldn't happen to be the guy I corner worked with at Dixie last year would you? The guy and his co-driver were in a nice blue 350Z. I think the owner took 3rd place?
Z1 - sorry I missed you at Dixie, I was co-driving an STR S2000 and didn't have a bunch of spare time. I didn't beat the car owner but managed to come back and get the last trophy spot on Sunday. Saturday the 1st drivers were screwed due to the drying conditions. I was sitting 3rd after 2nd drivers 2nd runs and my 3rd run (which were roughly same conditions) but once the rest of the grid went and they came back to do the 2nd drivers it was much dryer line and every one of them went faster than me. I'm sure you guys had similar situation with the AWD cars having an advantage in STU on Saturday being we were in the same run group.
As for my Z, the OS Giken is still sitting on my dining room table in a box. I've been so busy doing other events that I haven't had time to work on it. I did however get some coin saved up and have just placed an order with Guy Ankeny, through FRSport, for a custom Penkse 8300 setup!
I'm hoping to get bushings, control arms, and sway bar ordered up before the Penske setup arrives. Then I'll just put the car up on jack stands and do everything in one go. I'll drop the entire rear subframe and suspension and go from there. Once I get to work on it I'll try getting pictures of my progress and post them here.
Z1 - sorry I missed you at Dixie, I was co-driving an STR S2000 and didn't have a bunch of spare time. I didn't beat the car owner but managed to come back and get the last trophy spot on Sunday. Saturday the 1st drivers were screwed due to the drying conditions. I was sitting 3rd after 2nd drivers 2nd runs and my 3rd run (which were roughly same conditions) but once the rest of the grid went and they came back to do the 2nd drivers it was much dryer line and every one of them went faster than me. I'm sure you guys had similar situation with the AWD cars having an advantage in STU on Saturday being we were in the same run group.
NP, I was busy/distracted too.
Congratulations on getting into the trophies! The track conditions were improving A LOT between runs as you mentioned, but my day-one fail (coning-away a 50.6) was totally my fault.
Oh, and you are more much of a mechanic than I if you are dropping the sub-frame yourself. I saw pics of all the linkage hanging off of that thing when it's removed and payed a shop to do it.
Oh, and you are more much of a mechanic than I if you are dropping the sub-frame yourself. I saw pics of all the linkage hanging off of that thing when it's removed and payed a shop to do it.
I grew up working on cars with my dad so I enjoy doing it myself, plus it saves some money for entry fees and tires
I did it on my E36 M3 and was able to get all the bushings done in house with my 12 ton harbor freight except for the subframe bushings. Had to take the subframe to a local shop and get the old ones pressed out, I got the new ones put in no problem.
I'm hoping and praying it'll be similar on the 350z. There's one extra linkage I think but 90% of it is very similar to the M3.
I asked SCCA if I could run finned Diff cover, and the answer was a big NO. But I see it's being considered now, including full cooler. I don't remember when they plan to review it and have a decision, so it maybe worth waiting. I'm done, unless my diff explodes, I'm not changing the cover.
So this is in the May Fastrack:
Street Touring #17131 Differential Covers and Coolers Add the highlighted language to 14.10.A: “Oil pans, oil pickups, and differential covers may be modified or substituted. Addition or modification of windage trays or crankshaft scrapers is not allowed. Engine oil, transmission fluid, differential fluid, and power steering fluid coolers may be added or substituted (including oil to coolant heat exchangers) but may not serve any additional purpose. ” Note: This language adds an allowance for differential coolers.
If it's in the fasttrack does that mean it's legal now?
I haven't installed my diff yet so definitely looking at the Z1 cover now to help with cooling since I'll be doing a few track days each year as well.
Edit: it says recommended for 2017. I might have to roll the dice and go for it.
I grew up working on cars with my dad so I enjoy doing it myself, plus it saves some money for entry fees and tires
I did it on my E36 M3 and was able to get all the bushings done in house with my 12 ton harbor freight except for the subframe bushings. Had to take the subframe to a local shop and get the old ones pressed out, I got the new ones put in no problem.
I'm hoping and praying it'll be similar on the 350z. There's one extra linkage I think but 90% of it is very similar to the M3.
I was able to do all of it myself with 2 jacks and jackstands. I'll try to post it if I get time.
So I finally got to start working on my Z. I've acquired even more parts and the dining room table is getting pretty full. Time to start putting everything on the car. I decided to start with the rear of the car as there is a bit more work to be done there with the diff install, various bushings, and coil overs.
A pic getting ready to pull the rear subframe Audi racing style:
Got everything disconnected and the entire assembly out of the car and on the gound.
Final step for the day was to strip everything down so the small items will fit in my press for the new bushings. I also got the diff out and on the work bench to be torn down and the OS Giken installed.
I'm hoping that I can get some small things done at night during the week and larger items on the weekend. The goal is to have the car back together and ready to go for some local events towards the end of August
Where did you purchase your penske setup? I am thinking of selling the clubsports and saving for those. I just picked up a nismo and need to learn the car from the 03 de.
I purchased them from FRSport.com as Guy Ankeny is working with them now. So he custom valved the Penske setup and the rest of the parts needed (mounts, etc) came from FRSport
Edit: so it seems my350z.com is adding something into the above link thinking it's trying to decode a VIN and it won't work. I'll start posting some more pics below.
Now onto more questions:
I need to get an alignment done and then a corner balance.
I know ride height will be different for everyone but any recommended starting points for when I do the alignment and corner balance?
If not a recommended height any recommendation for rake from front to rear?
Last edited by jledford; 09-13-2016 at 07:09 AM.
Reason: Hyperlink issue
02-25-2016, 10:41 AM
HR STU Build / intro thread
