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After looking at multiple hood prop designs I decided to come up with my own. This is my first try at this and it works great. but Im gonna revise the angle mounted to the hood screws because i used to thin of aluminum for testing purposes and its too weak. If you look close enough you can see the aluminum yielding.
after many responses from everyone wanting me to make a DIY I decided to help the z community out.
Please dont post anything till im done. HERE GOES!
IM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGES FOR ANYONE ATTEMPTING TO DO THIS INSTALL.
IF YOUR LOCAL AND WANNA DO THIS TO YOUR CAR? BRING OVER A FEW CORONA'S, ILL SPLIT A PIZZA WITH YOU, AND WELL KNOCK IT OUT IN MY GARAGE!
- J
UPDATE: SEE POST 107+ FOR PICS OF THIS MOD WITH CF HOOD! FITHAMOTO's POST!
Step1:
YOu have to go out and buy Ball studs and gas props!
I searched long and hard around my town and all over the internet for these.
I found my hardware at my local Truck camper/bed lid sales store.
GAS PROPS: 2 each at $15.00 locally - 45 lb capacity 12 inches min - 15.5 inches long max. One end of the gas props has to be rounded. SEE POST #7 for this!
XXXXX UPDATE: LIFT SUPPORT MODEL # BK.819-5517 60LB. (SEE POST 42) XXXXXX
XXXXX COST: My local NAPA $21.89 each. XXXXXX
BALL STUDS: 4 each at $4.99 locally - The store you buy them from will get you the right size. i believe mine were a 10mm ball. however the threading was standard thread 5/16th. SEE POST 3 and 4!
XXXXXX UPDATE: I was able to find the same ball studs at NAPA as well for $4.11 cents for 2!! not $5 bucks each...NAPA part number: 735-1591 = 2 each ball studs 10mm for $4.11
Cutting ball studs and mounting on an M6X1.0 bolt. <--- no longer needed!
MEGA UPDATE! 12-11-07
THANKS TO ( buffmanjeff ) for his post 88 on page 5. he found that NAPA sells (P/N 735-3608 COST $5.14 EACH!) the ball stud needed so that you DO NOT need to tap or weld...
This find makes this how too way easier to an already easy how to.
see attached pics.
Also see pics on post 91 on page 5.
Remember you only need two of the napa p/n 735-3608 ball studs per car. they mount on the fender factory bolt hole location. NAPA P/N 735-3608 COST $5.14 EACH!
You still need two NAPA part number: 735-1591 - 5/16 thread ball studs for the angle mounted on the hood. I doubt the p/n 735-3608 would be good to use for the hood location due to the size and short length of the shaft. you can torque down the 5/16th ones more.
Okay, This is what im talking about when you may decide to drill out the factory nut mounted on the fender to use the standard threaded ball stud or opt to WELD.
I searched everywhere online -- i mean everywhere. i called ball stud manufacturers. i wasnt able to find any ball studs with M6X1.0 threading on them. If you do find some, let me know! thanks!
This is why i opted to cut the ball studs off and weld to an M6X1.0 bolt.
HERE is where you have to cut both sides - battery cover and brake cover. The cutting is supper minimal compared to other hood damper sets sold out there.
Okay! this is the tricky part when buying your gas props.
Since the gas prop mount location is straight on with the ball stud on the quarter panel/fender you need to go out and buy a gas prop with at least one end that is rounded. its not uncommon at all. i found them at a local truck camper sales store in my city. I did have to drive to a few places though. but if they dont have them, then they can get them.
here is where i used Aluminum for my bracket mounted to my hood bolt locations.
The picture on the Vise represents the passenger side angle.
The picture on the car is the drivers side.
Also, I left my aluminum angle natural finish. but spray painting the angle would also add a nice touch. just a thought if anyone cares too. I think i may round the corners as well to give it a nicer look!
mount the angle by itself first and test the open and closing of the hood. make sure the corner of the angle does NOT touch the battery cover. if so then grind/round down the corner a bit.
it gets close!!!!!!!!!!!
IT's good to have someone help you open and close the hood while your peaking in from the side to ensure the angle doesn't hit the battery cover.
ALSO: IF ANYONE FOLLOWS MY THREAD. DO ME A FAVOR AND SEND ME SOME PICS. I WOULD LOVE TO SEE IF ANY ONE ELSE ALSO DOES MY MOD.
THANKS AND ENJOY.
FEEL FREE TO PM ME IF THERE ARE ANY QUESTIONS?!
-J PARTS LIST RECAP:
LIFT SUPPORTS:
OPTION 1:
NAPA: SUSPA C16-23993 45 LB.
or
OPTION2:
NAPA: # BK.819-5517 60LB. (SEE POST 42) - COST: NAPA $21.89 each.
BALL STUDS FOR ALUMINUM ANGLE: 5/16 thread
NAPA: P/N 735-1591 = 2 each ball studs - 10mm ball
COST $4.11 for a box of 2. so your done.
these may have been replaced with NAPA P/N 735-1896
BALL STUD FOR THE FENDER OF THE Z: Metric thread M6x1.0 - fits fender bolt hole.
NAPA P/N 735-3608 = 1 each ball stud – 10mm ball
COST $5.14 EACH, so $10.28 for two and your done.
Okay, This is what im talking about when you may decide to drill out the factory nut mounted on the fender to use the standard threaded ball stud or opt to WELD.
I searched everywhere online -- i mean everywhere. i called ball stud manufacturers. i wasnt able to find any ball studs with M6X1.0 threading on them. If you do find some, let me know! thanks!
This is why i opted to cut the ball studs off and weld to an M6X1.0 bolt.
Jason try your locale infiniti dealer for the ball stud. I have a FX and your set up looks very similar. The fx has the ball stud in place of the fender bolt.
That unit is about $20-$30 bucks more than my unit. But the main thing is that it eliminates or sever cutting has to be done to the battery/brake covers!
If you look at where the unit mounts on the car side, thats an original factory tooling hole that is used. That factory tooling hole is directly under the brake cover.
that might be the cheaper option? that comes with all the bits and pieces.. and i think it can be mounted like Jasonz's as well?
From the picture on ebay, that one looks like it will have clearance issues with the battery/brake fluid covers, where you would need to use the heat gun trick.
DIY - Hood Damper/Hood prop!
