I spent some time searching around for a DIY thread on installing a boost gauge. I didn't find anything that pointed everything out so I just took some pictures along the way when I installed mine for my up coming STS turbo kit install. Installing boost gauges is really ways but I thought it might help just to see or read about it. I had never done it before and I thought it would be helpful to read through something before I did it. If anyone wants AFR sensor/gauge or cubby gauge pod diy, let me know.
Overview:
I installed an Autometer Pro-Comp series boost gauge which has a vacuum/boost line that runs from the intake manifold/plenum to the gauge it self. I found this to be the easiest and the least potentially harmful way to measure boost/vacuum. The gauge has a single connection from the intake plenum and connections for the light. I really didn't need anything fancy as my turbo install is going to be pretty conservative in terms of power(sub 400hp range). More expensive gauges such as the Defi gauges are much more intense in terms of install but this DIY should apply to the standard boost gauges out there.
Tools Needed:
-metric sockets
-ratchet
-extension of anything length
-lighter
-something to cut the zip ties and tubing
Materials Needed:
-1/4 inch vacuum tubing. I found it at AutoZone.
-1/4 inch vacuum union or tee. I used a tee because I know I'll need it for my turbo install.
-zip ties
-electrical wire for lights(18 gauge is fine or speaker wire)
-male and female quick connects
-wire stripper if you need it. Pliers and teeth work well for stripping small gauge wire.
-Gauge(assume it includes the connection to the gauge for the vacuum line and the vacuum line itself.)
Steps:
1. Remove the strut bar. Just take the nuts of bolts off and set them aside.
2. Remove the engine cover plastics. There are 2 nuts and 2 bolts. Pretty straight forward
3. Remove the nipple on the plenum.
4. Take the vacuum tubing from AutoZone and fit it over the nipple on the plenum. Do not cut the hose off until you run it.\
Here is where the nipple is. There is my AutoZone tubing run around to the battery compartment.
5. Run the vacuum tubing around and into the battery compartment. I cut a small hole in one of the rubber grommets.
6. Secure the tubing with zip ties. I secured the tubing to pre-existing wires and lines in the engine bay.
7. Remove the plastics around the battery to expose the grommet where the massive wiring harness runs through the fire wall. There are some plastic rivets that hold the plastic down. Use a blade screw driver to pry the pin up.
8. Cut a hole in the grommet. Do not cut the wires, they go to the ECU.
9. Run the tubing supplied by the gauge manufacture. I ran mine to my dash where I was installing the gauge.
10. Put the tee or union on the AutoZone vacuum line that comes off the plenum. I had to heat up the line to get the tee to go all the way on. I found a lighter the best way to accomplish this.
11. If you used a tee and you aren't hooking anything else up(right now), use the nipple from the plenum to plug the other side of the tee.
12. Secure the tubing in the battery compartment.
13. If you are installing other gauges. Go ahead and run the wires or whatever before moving on. At this point I ran my AFR wire from the place my sensor was going to go to the place where my gauge was going to be installed.
14. Once the boost gauge is secured or the place for the gauge has been secured. Cut the supplied vacuum tubing to length and attach the supplied fitting to the line.
That’s it for the sensing part of the installation.
The next part is for the electrical part which for me was hooking up the lights. My gauge was installed in the cubby hole above the radio so I tapped into the power and ground wires on the radio. I used wire taps and quick connects to tap and run wires up to the cubby hole from the radio.
1. Tap the switched 12+ source on the back of the radio. I don't remember the wiring code so you will have to look it up for your year.
2. Tap the ground wire of the radio.
3. Attach wires to these taps and attach quick connects to the ends of the wire. This will allow you to disconnect the wires to the gauges real fast if you need to.
Here is my wiring harness with one missing quick connect on the power wire. The white tubing there in the cubby is the vacuum line connected to the plenum. The wire with the plug is from my AFR sensor.
4. Wire up the gauge with quick connects. I have three gauges in my cubby so I have all three included in one harness.
At this point, the wiring for the gauge light should be done and the sensing line should be run and secured. So just connect the gauge to the wiring and connect the sensing line. Then start the car and check for leaks. They are easy to hear. If you don't trust your hearing use some water around the connections. I did not use clamps or anything to keep the connections tight because they were already really tight as it was. So clamps would have been a total waste.
Done:
DIY: How to install a boost gauge
