How-To: Front Bumper Removal/L.E.D Clear Corners Install w/pix + Ares's '06 CCs!
07-12-2006, 02:39 PM
#1
How-To: Front Bumper Removal/L.E.D Clear Corners Install w/pix
This write-up covers my LED clear corner install and is written with intent to assist you with any of the following things on your 350Z:
Installing clear corners or LED clear corners.
Front bumper removal for any reason.
Splash guard removal (replacing bulbs etc.)
I should state first that this install is really quite easy on the Z. If it looks somewhat cumbersome here, don’t worry. Just give it a try and you’ll see what I mean.
Tools Needed:
Since a picture is worth a thousand words, I will let this pic do the talking. What I forgot here is a long-handle Phillips screwdriver I used (I’ll explain later why that its useful. By the way, the socket you see is 10mm and the wire taps are 18-22 gauge size.
Process:
Alright, so here we go! All steps numbered in order.
Tip: If your new corners have LEDs in them, before you do anything else, test them to make sure they are working fine. Otherwise you will just waste your time! Place power wire on the battery’s positive (red) terminal and the ground wire on any unpainted metal under the hood. The bolts for the strut tower brace are a good ground point. They lit up? Great! Now we can proceed.
1. Raise the front end of the Z and use jack stands to keep it safely there. I set mine at approx 10” high, but set the height you will feel comfortable with.
2. Remove both front wheels and set aside.
3. This is the view you will get once you can look into the wheel well. The black plastic you see here is the splash guard and all wiring is kept safely behind it, away from moisture. There are two large pieces that cover the entire wheel well. You will only remove the piece closer to the front. There are three clips, one screw, and four 10mm bolts holding it in. The approx locations of the clips are highlighted in blue and the screw is in yellow. That screw can be a bit tough to see if it has fine dirt on it (mine did…I had driven in the rain the night before), so you may have to look for it. It is right at the fender’s inner edge.
Tip: Don’t try to remove the clips forcefully or you will break them. Just grab the circular portion in the middle with needle nose pliers and gently tug on it. It will immediately come out with almost no effort.
4. This pic shows the holes left by two of the bolts you will also need to remove from under the front end. The other two are at the far edge and bolted directly into the bumper (those two are in the sequence as the rest of the lower bumper bolts that I’ll mention later).
5. Once all 7 restraints have been removed, the splash guard can be un-tucked out of the bumper edge, pushed in, and swung to the side to move out of the way. At this point, only one far-off clip will be holding it to the chassis. Don’t remove that one or the guard will fall on the floor. In fact, that one works well as a pivot point.
6. Now, this will be your view. The parking light bulb is circled. As you can see, the driver side clear corner is easily accessible from here. It wasn’t in my case since my CAI was in the way, but if you don’t have one, you can easily use a short phillips screwdriver to remove the screws and then the marker. But the passenger side marker cannot be accessed this way since the windshield reservoir bottle is in the way. You may be able to get away with removing just half of the bumper (only pass. side) and replacing that corner. But since the process for full removal isn’t much more time consuming, I didn’t even bother to check. On with the full removal!
7. Repeat the process on the opposite side.
8. Alright, now we are ready to work on bumper removal; also a very simple process.
9. The bumper is attached to the Z by 10 bolts underneath, plus four by each headlight, and 6 black clips on top in front of the radiator. So a total of 18 10mm bolts and six clips. We will tackle each set individually.
10. Pop the hood to access the clips mentioned above but don’t remove them yet. They are circled in this pic.
11. Start by removing the 10 bolts under the car. Here’s a pic of what they look like. As you can see, they are right at the bottom edge of the bumper and very easily accessible. You already removed four of them (2 on each side) while removing the splash guard. Now remove the other 6 and set them all aside.
12. Now that the bottom end is free, we will work at freeing the top as well.
13. Starting in either wheel well, look by the headlight. You will see two bolts connecting the bumper directly to the chassis. This is where the long-handle Phillips screwdriver would come in handy since space there is tight. It will make the removal quick and easy. Those and the two mentioned in the following step are all circled in this pic:
14. Next to headlight, you will see a bracket with two bolts attached, one facing down and the other to the side. Remove them. (Refer to above pic for location)
15. Repeat on the opposite side. Now the bolts are all out.
16. We’re almost there! The six black clips on top of the bumper close to the outer edge are all that needs to be removed.
17. Take a flat screwdriver, insert its edge into the little indentations around the middle piece of each clip, and twist it. The piece will pop up like this.
18. Now grab it with your needle nose pliers and gently remove each of the clips.
Tip: Keep one hand on the bumper when removing the last clip as it will want to fall off on its own as soon as free, and you wouldn’t want to scratch the paint.
19. Here’s a pic of it removed.
20. Here’s another pic. Look at the threaded metal inserts at the bottom; that’s where you removed all those bolts from.
21. Orange corners are now a piece of cake to remove with a narrow point Phillips screwdriver. Remember that there are also two little knotches holding them in across from the screws. Put one finger behind each and gentle push it out.
22. Replace with clear corners. Here’s a pic of my passenger side one.
23. If yours are not lighted (LEDs), you are done! Just reverse the install process and put the front end back together. Congratulations!
Installing clear corners or LED clear corners.
Front bumper removal for any reason.
Splash guard removal (replacing bulbs etc.)
I should state first that this install is really quite easy on the Z. If it looks somewhat cumbersome here, don’t worry. Just give it a try and you’ll see what I mean.
Tools Needed:
Since a picture is worth a thousand words, I will let this pic do the talking. What I forgot here is a long-handle Phillips screwdriver I used (I’ll explain later why that its useful. By the way, the socket you see is 10mm and the wire taps are 18-22 gauge size.
Process:
Alright, so here we go! All steps numbered in order.
Tip: If your new corners have LEDs in them, before you do anything else, test them to make sure they are working fine. Otherwise you will just waste your time! Place power wire on the battery’s positive (red) terminal and the ground wire on any unpainted metal under the hood. The bolts for the strut tower brace are a good ground point. They lit up? Great! Now we can proceed.
1. Raise the front end of the Z and use jack stands to keep it safely there. I set mine at approx 10” high, but set the height you will feel comfortable with.
2. Remove both front wheels and set aside.
3. This is the view you will get once you can look into the wheel well. The black plastic you see here is the splash guard and all wiring is kept safely behind it, away from moisture. There are two large pieces that cover the entire wheel well. You will only remove the piece closer to the front. There are three clips, one screw, and four 10mm bolts holding it in. The approx locations of the clips are highlighted in blue and the screw is in yellow. That screw can be a bit tough to see if it has fine dirt on it (mine did…I had driven in the rain the night before), so you may have to look for it. It is right at the fender’s inner edge.
Tip: Don’t try to remove the clips forcefully or you will break them. Just grab the circular portion in the middle with needle nose pliers and gently tug on it. It will immediately come out with almost no effort.
4. This pic shows the holes left by two of the bolts you will also need to remove from under the front end. The other two are at the far edge and bolted directly into the bumper (those two are in the sequence as the rest of the lower bumper bolts that I’ll mention later).
5. Once all 7 restraints have been removed, the splash guard can be un-tucked out of the bumper edge, pushed in, and swung to the side to move out of the way. At this point, only one far-off clip will be holding it to the chassis. Don’t remove that one or the guard will fall on the floor. In fact, that one works well as a pivot point.
6. Now, this will be your view. The parking light bulb is circled. As you can see, the driver side clear corner is easily accessible from here. It wasn’t in my case since my CAI was in the way, but if you don’t have one, you can easily use a short phillips screwdriver to remove the screws and then the marker. But the passenger side marker cannot be accessed this way since the windshield reservoir bottle is in the way. You may be able to get away with removing just half of the bumper (only pass. side) and replacing that corner. But since the process for full removal isn’t much more time consuming, I didn’t even bother to check. On with the full removal!
7. Repeat the process on the opposite side.
8. Alright, now we are ready to work on bumper removal; also a very simple process.
9. The bumper is attached to the Z by 10 bolts underneath, plus four by each headlight, and 6 black clips on top in front of the radiator. So a total of 18 10mm bolts and six clips. We will tackle each set individually.
10. Pop the hood to access the clips mentioned above but don’t remove them yet. They are circled in this pic.
11. Start by removing the 10 bolts under the car. Here’s a pic of what they look like. As you can see, they are right at the bottom edge of the bumper and very easily accessible. You already removed four of them (2 on each side) while removing the splash guard. Now remove the other 6 and set them all aside.
12. Now that the bottom end is free, we will work at freeing the top as well.
13. Starting in either wheel well, look by the headlight. You will see two bolts connecting the bumper directly to the chassis. This is where the long-handle Phillips screwdriver would come in handy since space there is tight. It will make the removal quick and easy. Those and the two mentioned in the following step are all circled in this pic:
14. Next to headlight, you will see a bracket with two bolts attached, one facing down and the other to the side. Remove them. (Refer to above pic for location)
15. Repeat on the opposite side. Now the bolts are all out.
16. We’re almost there! The six black clips on top of the bumper close to the outer edge are all that needs to be removed.
17. Take a flat screwdriver, insert its edge into the little indentations around the middle piece of each clip, and twist it. The piece will pop up like this.
18. Now grab it with your needle nose pliers and gently remove each of the clips.
Tip: Keep one hand on the bumper when removing the last clip as it will want to fall off on its own as soon as free, and you wouldn’t want to scratch the paint.
19. Here’s a pic of it removed.
20. Here’s another pic. Look at the threaded metal inserts at the bottom; that’s where you removed all those bolts from.
21. Orange corners are now a piece of cake to remove with a narrow point Phillips screwdriver. Remember that there are also two little knotches holding them in across from the screws. Put one finger behind each and gentle push it out.
22. Replace with clear corners. Here’s a pic of my passenger side one.
23. If yours are not lighted (LEDs), you are done! Just reverse the install process and put the front end back together. Congratulations!
Last edited by usmanasif; 04-26-2009 at 09:06 PM.
07-12-2006, 02:39 PM
#2
24. For those with lighted clear corners, reverse the install process and get the bumper securely back on the car, but leave the splash guards off. We will now supply power to your LEDs.
25. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. It is the rule of thumb before doing any electrical work on the car.
26. Back inside in the wheel well, here is what we see (same pic as earlier). The bulb at lower left is the parking light which I will tap into to power my LEDs. If you want to connect yours to the blinker, simply locate and use those wires instead.
27. At the parking light, the green wire with white stripe you see in above pic is the power wire and the black is ground.
28. There is blue plastic tubing around the wires that you will need to partially cut to access and tap into them.
29. Pick either wire and slide the “flow-through” side of the tap over it. Insert the appropriate wire from the LEDs into the other opening (closed on one side) and slide it in until it stops. Now, using your pliers, clamp down hard on the metal splicer on top of the tap. Done!
30. Repeat for opposite side LED clear corner.
31. Reconnect negative battery terminal.
32. Alright, the moment of truth is upon us. Let there be light! Turn on the parking light. If your connections were good, both sides should light up. If not, recheck the connections since that’s the only thing that could go wrong. In my case, the right side turned on but not the left. I simply clamped down one more time with pliers on the grounding wire tap on that side and bam! The LEDs flickered on at once.
33. Insulate all four wire taps as well as you possibly can with electrical tape to further deter moisture. Here are two pics of mine.
34. Reverse the removal process for splash guards to put them back in place. Be sure to the tuck the edge nicely behind the bumper as it originally was, and replace the screw/clips/bolts.
Tip: To quickly reinsert the clips, pull the inner piece partially out, hold with the needle noose pliers along the side, and insert the outer gripper into the hole, then push the rest in.
35. Congratulations! You are all done! Time to gloat in your DIY abilities!
This write-up is detailed on purpose. It is meant to help novices. I should however, mention that these are only guidelines. Should you damage anything on the car or injure yourself, don’t hold me responsible!
I’d be more than happy to answer any questions you may have. But I would prefer it if you ask the question here instead of PM so others can benefit as well even if this thread comes up during a search years from now.
Now, a few starter pics of mine. The LEDs are pure white but appear blue in pictures since the camera kept auto-adjusting the white balance but did not get it right. My set of #168 LED bulbs (parking lamp) is arriving tomorrow so then the parking lamps will finally lose the ugly egg yolk color and I will achieve the balanced “all white” lighted front look. A set of chromed-out amber bulbs will further help with that look with the lights off.
I took some day-time shots a few hours ago but cannot upload off my camera on my work PC. I will do so this evening and add them here.
I’d be more than happy to answer any questions you may have. PMs are fine, but I would prefer it if you ask the question here instead so others can benefit as well, even if this thread comes up during a search years from now.
Finally, all thanks go to Brian (ares) for his spectacular LED work on these clear corners. You wouldn’t believe the intricacy with which he soldered all the lights and wires behind each marker; seemingly meant to be looked at from behind!
I looked at each one closely when I first got them and the distance between the 15 LEDs in each marker, as well as the holes drilled into the back piece for mounting are both factory-perfect. They definitely do not look like a DIY job. My wife has a strict aesthetic eye and she fully agrees with me on this!
Until ’06 this design was not possible since the markers did not have an angled gap between the reflector and the lens. This design was Brian’s idea and so for the first time, front-facing LEDs in Z’s side markers were made possible. They cause such a neat glow in front of the car at night!
I don’t know if Brian is planning on making any more of these. Also, I cannot discuss pricing for these. Brian (ares) would be best suited for those inquiries.
25. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. It is the rule of thumb before doing any electrical work on the car.
26. Back inside in the wheel well, here is what we see (same pic as earlier). The bulb at lower left is the parking light which I will tap into to power my LEDs. If you want to connect yours to the blinker, simply locate and use those wires instead.
27. At the parking light, the green wire with white stripe you see in above pic is the power wire and the black is ground.
28. There is blue plastic tubing around the wires that you will need to partially cut to access and tap into them.
29. Pick either wire and slide the “flow-through” side of the tap over it. Insert the appropriate wire from the LEDs into the other opening (closed on one side) and slide it in until it stops. Now, using your pliers, clamp down hard on the metal splicer on top of the tap. Done!
30. Repeat for opposite side LED clear corner.
31. Reconnect negative battery terminal.
32. Alright, the moment of truth is upon us. Let there be light! Turn on the parking light. If your connections were good, both sides should light up. If not, recheck the connections since that’s the only thing that could go wrong. In my case, the right side turned on but not the left. I simply clamped down one more time with pliers on the grounding wire tap on that side and bam! The LEDs flickered on at once.
33. Insulate all four wire taps as well as you possibly can with electrical tape to further deter moisture. Here are two pics of mine.
34. Reverse the removal process for splash guards to put them back in place. Be sure to the tuck the edge nicely behind the bumper as it originally was, and replace the screw/clips/bolts.
Tip: To quickly reinsert the clips, pull the inner piece partially out, hold with the needle noose pliers along the side, and insert the outer gripper into the hole, then push the rest in.
35. Congratulations! You are all done! Time to gloat in your DIY abilities!
This write-up is detailed on purpose. It is meant to help novices. I should however, mention that these are only guidelines. Should you damage anything on the car or injure yourself, don’t hold me responsible!
I’d be more than happy to answer any questions you may have. But I would prefer it if you ask the question here instead of PM so others can benefit as well even if this thread comes up during a search years from now.
Now, a few starter pics of mine. The LEDs are pure white but appear blue in pictures since the camera kept auto-adjusting the white balance but did not get it right. My set of #168 LED bulbs (parking lamp) is arriving tomorrow so then the parking lamps will finally lose the ugly egg yolk color and I will achieve the balanced “all white” lighted front look. A set of chromed-out amber bulbs will further help with that look with the lights off.
I took some day-time shots a few hours ago but cannot upload off my camera on my work PC. I will do so this evening and add them here.
I’d be more than happy to answer any questions you may have. PMs are fine, but I would prefer it if you ask the question here instead so others can benefit as well, even if this thread comes up during a search years from now.
Finally, all thanks go to Brian (ares) for his spectacular LED work on these clear corners. You wouldn’t believe the intricacy with which he soldered all the lights and wires behind each marker; seemingly meant to be looked at from behind!
I looked at each one closely when I first got them and the distance between the 15 LEDs in each marker, as well as the holes drilled into the back piece for mounting are both factory-perfect. They definitely do not look like a DIY job. My wife has a strict aesthetic eye and she fully agrees with me on this!Until ’06 this design was not possible since the markers did not have an angled gap between the reflector and the lens. This design was Brian’s idea and so for the first time, front-facing LEDs in Z’s side markers were made possible. They cause such a neat glow in front of the car at night!
I don’t know if Brian is planning on making any more of these. Also, I cannot discuss pricing for these. Brian (ares) would be best suited for those inquiries.
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07-15-2006, 10:19 PM
#10
No problem! I have benefited from enough how-to's written by others for Z and my previous Maxima, so glad to be able to contribute on my own as well.
Yangsta, as ares said too, the LEDs are pure white...nearly in the same spectrum as my HIDs. My camera just kept messing up the white balance and turning them blue in all pix.
Here are the daytime pix I had promised. Higher res this time:
Yangsta, as ares said too, the LEDs are pure white...nearly in the same spectrum as my HIDs. My camera just kept messing up the white balance and turning them blue in all pix.
Here are the daytime pix I had promised. Higher res this time:
Last edited by usmanasif; 07-15-2006 at 10:21 PM.
07-15-2006, 10:24 PM
#11
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07-15-2006, 10:31 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by usmanasif
No sir! Mine is a custom job by Brian (ares). The zignalz are a totally different design; they aren't forward-facing like mine are.
ok cool.. just checking to see if you were crazy enough(or just rich as hell) to buy those.. lol..
gj and thanks for the how-to!
07-16-2006, 07:32 AM
#14
no, I have never used premade pcb surface mount boards. they are great for what they are, they are much easier to be made much stronger, but they were always too limiting. they only come in straight lines, even 2 straight lines with an angle between them are still 2 straight lines. and where I put the LEDs is concaved which really wouldnt work. so all the soldering is done freehand so I can orient the LEDs as I want.
but though the original price was well under half of what courtesy is charging there; it was extremely time consuming, more so then I expected when I set the price..
but though the original price was well under half of what courtesy is charging there; it was extremely time consuming, more so then I expected when I set the price..
09-02-2006, 10:18 PM
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I got a similar set for my 2005 DB Z. I am VERY HAPPY with it.
The work done by ares is INCREDIBLE and looks perfect. His customer service is great and his products speak for themselves in terms of quality.
I highly recommend him for all your LED reflector needs! (www.rasecreations.com is his site).
THANKS Brian!!!
The work done by ares is INCREDIBLE and looks perfect. His customer service is great and his products speak for themselves in terms of quality.
I highly recommend him for all your LED reflector needs! (www.rasecreations.com is his site).
THANKS Brian!!!
12-08-2006, 08:15 AM
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Great work and write up, mate!
Just noticed u have a 2006 z like mine, did u ever unmount xenon bulbs?
Are they D2S? (i'd like to replace them...)
Thx!
Just noticed u have a 2006 z like mine, did u ever unmount xenon bulbs?
Are they D2S? (i'd like to replace them...)
Thx!
Last edited by Andrea; 12-08-2006 at 08:18 AM.
02-20-2007, 06:17 PM
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installing led sidemarkers
Very good write up with one exception -- it is not necessary to remove the front bumper cover. Once the inner fender liner is out on the passenger side, you only need to remove 2 nuts, and 1 bolt holding the washer res in place. It can easily by moved out of the way to access the top screw for the s/m. A stubby 10mm wrench is all that is needed to remove this hardware for the washer bottle. This is considerably faster, and there is no chance of a problem with scratching or marking the cover.